New Book of Middle Eastern Food

Saman bi Einab (Quails with Grapes)
Serves 4

A wonderful dish. Even those who think it is not worth cooking quail because the birds are too small think this is delightful. In Morocco, ground ginger is used, but with fresh ginger it is particularly delicious. I peel and cut the root into pieces and squeeze them through a garlic press to obtain the juice. But if you are used to grating ginger, do that.

8 quails
3 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil
5-6 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
3 inches fresh gingerroot, or to taste, grated, or crushed in a garlic press to extract the juice
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 pound large seedless white grapes, washed and drained

Quails are often sold with some remaining feathers, which need to be pulled or burnt off.

In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil with the butter. Put in the quails and sauté briskly over medium heat for about 8 minutes, turning to brown them lightly all over, and adding salt, pepper, and ginger. Add the garlic, and cook moments more, until the aroma rises, then take off the heat.

Put the grapes with the remaining oil in a saucepan. Sprinkle with a little salt, and cook, with the lid on, over low heat for about 20 minutes, or until the grapes soft, stirring occasionally. Add them to the quails in the frying pan and cook for about 10 minutes, or until the quails are done to your liking.

Serve hot.

The Quails

The Khoja shot a large number of quails, which he dressed and put on to stew. He clapped the lid on the saucepan and went out to invite his friends to dinner, wishing to give some of them who were always questioning his skill an agreeable proof of it.

While he was out, another man came and carried off the cooked quails, putting live quails in their place.

The Khoja's friends arrived, the saucepan was brought out, and the Khoja proudly took the cover off; the quails flew out with a flutter and disappeared. The Khoja stared in amazement, and then ejaculated:

"Oh Lord! granted that Thou hast restored the quails to life and made the dear little creatures happy again, how about my butter, salt, pepper, herbs, cooking expenses, and all my hard work? Who is going to pay for them?"

Barnham, trans., Tales of the Nasr-ed-din Khoja

Djaj bel Loz (Chicken with Almonds and Honey)
Serves 8

A magnificent dish, and a stunning example of the way Moroccans mix savory and sweet. Chicken pieces are first stewed with lemon juice and saffron, then baked with a topping of almonds and honey.
2 large onions, chopped
4 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
1 teaspoons ground ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
Two 3 1/2- to 4-pound chickens, cut into quarters
Salt and pepper
1/2 teaspoon powdered saffron
Juice of 1/2-1 lemon
1 1/2 cups blanched almonds, coarsely ground
1 tablespoon rose water
4-5 tablespoons honey

In a large pan, cook the onions in the oil over low heat with the lid on until they soften, stirring occasionally. Stir in the ginger and cinnamon and put in the chicken. Cover with water, add salt and pepper, saffron, and lemon juice, and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings (the sauce should be quite salty), and move the pieces so that the top ones go to the bottom.

Lift the chicken pieces out and arrange them in a large, shallow baking dish. Remove the skin if you like, and pour the sauce over.

Mix the ground almonds with the rose water and honey. Spread this paste over the chicken pieces and bake in a 350 degree F oven for about 30-45 minutes. The flavor, with the melting honey, is divine. Serve hot.

Sabanekh bel Hummus (Spinach with Chickpeas)
Serves 6

The combination of spinach with chickpeas is common throughout the Middle East, but the flavors here are Egyptian. You may use good-quality canned chickpeas. It is good served with yogurt.

1/2 cup chickpeas, soaked overnight, or a 14-ounce can cooked chickpeas
Salt
2 pounds spinach
4-6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Pepper
Juice of 1 lemon (optional)

If you are using the dried and soaked chickpeas, drain and boil them in fresh water for 1 1/4 hours, or until very tender, adding salt when they begin to soften.

Wash the spinach and remove stems only if they are thick and tough, then drain well.

In a large pan, fry the garlic and coriander in the oil, stirring, until the aroma rises. Pack in the spinach without adding any water, cover with a lid, and put over low heat until the leaves crumple to a soft mass. Add the drained chickpeas -- cooked or canned -- season with a little salt and pepper, mix very well, and cook a few minutes more. If there is too much liquid, reduce a little on high heat.

Serve hot or cold, with a squeeze of lemon if you like.

Variations

Fry 1 large chopped onion in 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add 2 medium peeled and chopped tomatoes and 1 teaspoon sugar and cook until reduced, then stir in the cooked spinach and the chickpeas.

White haricot or navy beans may be used instead of chickpeas.

Recipes from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden. Copyright © 2000 by Claudia Roden.