Newfoundland and Labrador Book of Musts: The 101 Places Every Newfoundlander and Labradorian Must See
151
Newfoundland and Labrador Book of Musts: The 101 Places Every Newfoundlander and Labradorian Must See
151Overview
From whale-watching on the shore of St. Vincent’s and hiking Terra Nova to kissing the cod and catching greasy pigs at the largest garden party in the world, this essential volume explores the easternmost Canadian province. Highlighting the suggestions of notable Newfoundlanders and Labradorians from across the island—including comedian Mary Walsh, artist Brenda McLellan, Great Big Sea front man Alan Doyle, and Premier Danny Williams—this guide supplies lists of all the secret places locals and tourists simply must discover.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781926916026 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Nimbus Publishing |
| Publication date: | 11/17/2021 |
| Sold by: | Barnes & Noble |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 151 |
| Sales rank: | 1,071,637 |
| File size: | 7 MB |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
Newfoundland and Labrador Book of Musts
The 101 Places Every Nefoundlander and Labradorian Must See
By Janice Wells
MacIntyre Purcell Publishing Inc.
Copyright © 2011 MacIntyre Purcell Publishing Inc.All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-926916-02-6
CHAPTER 1
St. John's
Most people don't come to Newfoundland for city life, but once in the province they invariably rave about St. John's. The city is responsible for a good part of the province's economic output, and is home to Memorial University. The 2006 census has the city population at a modest 100,000, but the metro area count is 180,000 and fast-growing.
St. John's is a region unto itself. It was the capital of the Dominion of Newfoundland and Labrador prior to Confederation with Canada in 1949. As such, it retains elements (and attitudes) of a national capital and is, of course, the provincial capital. St. John's claim to be the oldest European-settled city in North America is contested, however, it is clear that it was an important fishing port in the early 1500s and received its first permanent settlers in the early 1600s. Moreover, there is no doubt that Water Street is the oldest commercial street in North America. Formerly known as the lower path, it was the route by which fishermen, servants, and traders (along with pirates and naval officers) moved from storehouse, to warehouse to alehouse. They did so in order to purchase or barter the supplies necessary to secure a successful voyage at the Newfoundland fishery.
Centuries later, the decline of the fishery negatively affected St. John's, but oil and gas discoveries, and a rising service sector, have boosted the city's fortunes. For visitors, St. John's memorably hilly streets, fascinating architecture, and spectacular harbour and cliffs make it the perfect placeto begin (or end) a trip to Newfoundland. There is plenty to see and do in St. John's, and music lovers are invariably impressed. It's common to walk into one of the city's many pubs and hear first-rate musicians, who typically relax at the bar enjoying a pint once the set is done. St. John's weather can be chilly, but it's a warm city rich in character and characters.
Rooms With a View 1
The Rooms complex houses the provincial archives, art gallery, and museum, and showcases Newfoundland and Labrador's fascinating history. In addition to the extensive permanent collection, there are travelling exhibits from outside the province, and programs and events for all ages, including a retelling of the Irish uprising of the 1800s with a Punch and Judy show. While many seek out The Rooms for its historical and archeological displays, the art gallery is also first-rate and contains more than 7,000 items.
The Rooms opened in 2005 and its salt-box design commemorates Newfoundland's traditional fishing "rooms." These rough structures were used to store and process fish, as well as house nets and other gear. The modern Rooms are perched on a hill and, along with St. John the Baptist Basilica, dominate the St. John's skyline. Because of the contrasting architecture between The Rooms and the Basilica, The Rooms have been denigrated by some as "the box the Basilica came in." Opinions may vary concerning the architecture of The Rooms, but everyone agrees that the views of St. John's and the harbour from the complex's fourth floor are remarkable. The Rooms Café is a great place from which to take in this sight, but go early; the Café (more fine dining than snack bar) doesn't take reservations and is a busy place.
Underneath The Rooms lie the remains of Fort Townsend, a star-shaped citadel, which was once among the largest British fortifications in North America. It was built to defend Britain's fishing interests and, with the withdrawal of the imperial garrison in 1870, became the home of the Royal Newfoundland Constabulary and, later, the St. John's Fire Department.
Details:The Rooms is located at 9 Bonaventure Avenue (it can be seen from all over the city). Open year-round. Tel (709) 757-8000. www.therooms.ca.
CHAPTER 2Cape Spear
Cape Spear is home to the oldest surviving lighthouse in Newfoundland. It has been restored to its 1839 appearance and designated a Canadian Heritage Site.
In some ways, Cape Spear is the Peggy's Cove of Newfoundland, except that it has no village and no big tourist centre. Instead, it has impressive rocks and waves, and WWII-era bunkers, tunnels and pill boxes. There are also visiting whales and icebergs, and, if you look hard enough, you can imagine Ireland on the other side (Cape Spear is the most easterly point on the continent).
Fora mystical experience not to be missed, join the dawn-seekers at Cape Spear who watch the sun rise out of the ocean to start its North American journey. During the summer months, you'll find scheduled live music, readings, and theatrical performances at the site. Not to worry, however, the activities, small gift shop, and visitors centre do not detract from the raw beauty of the place. Heed the signs as the Cape's magnificent waves can be deadly. And bring a picnic: No food is available at Cape Spear.
Details:Cape Spear is a 10-minute drive from downtown St. John's; follow the signs at the west end of Water Street across the Harbour Arterial and up over the hill. www.capespear.ca.
CHAPTER 3Signal Hill 3
Signal Hill, with its legendary Cabot Tower, is Newfoundland's most famous and historic landmark. It's also a marvelous place for walking, ocean-watching, and absorbing history.
The tower was built in 1897 to mark the 400 anniversary of John Cabot's discovery of Newfoundland. In 1901, Guglielmo Marconi received the first wireless message at a station near the tower.
But that's recent history. Well before then, Signal Hill was an important defense site for St. John's and all of North America. The "signal" in Signal Hill comes from the flags placed at its summit that were used to signal ships and other area fortifications.
Signal Hill was the 1762 scene of the final battle of the Seven Years' War in North America (the French surrendered St. John's to the British). Signal Hill was also manned during the Napoleonic Wars, the American Civil War, and WWII. The lookouts, gunneries, and the Queen's battery barracks have all been restored. During the summer months, the Royal Newfoundland Regiment's Signal Hill tattoo, in full 1795 uniform, performs at the site. There are also tours, children's programs, and an amateur radio station that is open to visiting enthusiasts.
You can drive to Signal Hill, or hike on the North Head trail, a 1.7-kilometer (1.1 mile) route, which will take your breath away, both for its spectacular scenery and for the sensation it provides of being suspended above the ocean. Steps have been built in the steeper sections and in one place, a chain, onto which you can grasp, has been anchored to the cliffside, a sobering reminder of the waves crashing on the rocks far below you. The trail is perfectly safe as long as you watch your step. Dogs are not recommended — my sister's little pooch was nearly blown over the edge, pulling her with him!
North Head Trail is accessed through the Battery, a series of narrow winding roads and paths that connected the houses of local fishing families. The Battery, with its houses clinging to the rocks at the base of the hill, is a must. Atone point, the North Head Trail goes right over the front steps of a house built into the cliff! Decades ago, this was not considered prime St. John's real estate, but that changed when a few farsighted people began restoring or building houses to take advantage of the views. The Battery is now a sought-after location.
Details:Cabot Tower is at the top of Signal Hill and can be seen from many vantage points. We'd say the CN Tower is the Cabot Tower of Toronto! From central St. John's, travel east on Empire Avenue, Duckworth, or Water streets to Signal Hill Road. Follow Signal Hill Road until you reach Signal Hill National Historic Site. Tel (709) 772-5367. www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/nl/signalhill/index.aspx
CHAPTER 4Get Into the Rock
They don't call Newfoundland "The Rock" for nothing. Newfoundland and Labrador is known by some as "the Earth's Geological Showcase," and the Johnson Geo Centre is the perfect place to discover why.
The Centre is dug into Signal Hill's 550-million-year-old rock and features more than 150 linear meters (500 feet) of exposed rock walls. The Geo Centre sits in a natural rock basin that was originally filled with peat, boulders, and a mixture of clay, sand, and gravel. For unique green temperature control, six geothermal wells — each more than 150 meters (500 feet) deep — extract heat from the deep rocks in winter and dissipate it in summer.
The Centre seems to rise up out of rock outcrops, wild grasses, shrubs, and trees, and the entry plaza displays 19 large specimens of Newfoundland and Labrador's most significant rocks and minerals. Only the Centre's glass-encased entry is above ground (the remaining 85 percent of the building is subterranean).
My visit to the Geo Centre was on the occasion of a charity event in the three-story-high reception hall where our solar system's planets are magically suspended. The representation of Saturn (complete with rings) measures more than 7 meters (24 feet) in diameter.
The museum's exhibits are divided into four sections: Our Planet, Our Province, Our People, and Our Future. The museum's 550-million-year-old walls are themselves part of the exhibit. On days of heavy rain or snow-melt, fractures and cracks provide natural channels for water migration and the walls become wet as water seeps through.
Details:The Geo Centre is located at 175 Signal Hill Road. Tel (709) 737-7880 or (866) 868-7625. www.geocentre.ca.
CHAPTER 5Regatta at Quidi Vidi 5
The Royal St. John's Regatta is the oldest continuing sporting event in North America. The event probably began as a competition between locals and crews from visiting European fishing ships. The earliest confirmable mention of a rowing competition is 1816, and there is a record from 1826 of an official committee called "the Amateurs of Boat Racing."
What this tradition means to "townies" is that the Regatta is an institution and a happening not to be missed, even if you're not typically interested in boats or racing. The date of the race is even a municipal holiday in St. John's. For the uninitiated, the "boats" are fixed seat-racing shells, and the hard-trained coxswained crews of six begin competing early in the morning (winners are announced by late afternoon).
The Regatta draws tens of thousands of merrymakers annually to the shores of Quidi Vidi Lake. To many, the concession stands, brass bands, wheels of fortune, games of chance, food and drink, and, of course, the socializing, are just as big a part of the day as the races. At one end of the fairgrounds, a beer tent beckons the thirsty; at the other end, passers-by rub the toes of a life-size bronze rower for good luck. It takes place the first Wednesday in August at Quidi Vidi Lake in eastern St. John's. The city holds its breath early in the morning as the committee assesses the weather and determines if the race will go forward. If conditions are deemed unfavourable — particularly wind — the Regatta takes place on the next suitable day — bad news for those who have begun partying the night before.
Details:The regatta is held on the first Wednesday in August (or Thursday, or occasionally Friday, if the weather doesn't cooperate) and is a civic holiday. If you miss the race, Quidi Vidi Lake is still well worth a visit; it has several kilometers of walking trails and is a wonderful place for a stroll, particularly during the warmer months. www.stjohnsregatta.org.
CHAPTER 6Cathedrals, Churches and Basilicas
The history of religion in Newfoundland and Labrador is a fascinating and ancient one. Evidence recently recovered by Evan Jones, Ph.D., of Bristol University indicates that Newfoundland may be the site of the remains of North America's only medieval church, circa 1499. Three centuries later, Roman Catholic, Anglican, Congregationalist, and Methodist churches had all been established in the sparsely populated colony, with other denominations to follow, and the building of "competing" churches in the smallest of communities had begun.
St. John's four most majestic churches are clustered within a short walk of each other, and other fine examples aren't far away. A visit to any of them is a serene respite from the bustle of city life. The oldest of St. John's churches is St. Thomas Anglican Church (8 Military Road), which dates to 1836. Built from local spruce and pine, with Gothic windows and other Gothic motifs, St. Thomas is an excellent wooden example of early Gothic revival architecture in British North America. One of its distinguishing features, which sets it apart from other early Gothic churches in British North America, is its spire. Comparable structures had a square tower façade (the steeple did not become common until the 1840s).
There are two churches dedicated to St. John the Baptist; locals call one "the Cathedral," and the other "the Basilica." The Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (9 Cathedral Street) represents the oldest Anglican establishment in Canada. It was founded in 1699 as a parish church, and the cathedral was designed in the 1840s by Sir George Gilbert Scott, a notable Victorian architect of churches and cathedrals (his work also included the Albert Memorial in Hyde Park). Unfortunately, only the stone walls of the cruciform-shaped cathedral remained following the St. John's Fire of 1892. Rebuilding began the following year and was completed in 1905. The Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, which was declared a National Historic Site in 1981, contains fine stained-glass and medieval carvings, as well as a small archival museum containing some early British cathedral artifacts. The area behind the church comprises the original cemetery from the 1699 parish church and is one of Canada's oldest graveyards.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Newfoundland and Labrador Book of Musts by Janice Wells. Copyright © 2011 MacIntyre Purcell Publishing Inc.. Excerpted by permission of MacIntyre Purcell Publishing Inc..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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Table of Contents
Contents
St. John's,The Avalon Peninsula,
Eastern Region,
Central Region,
Western Region,
Great Northern Peninsula,
Labrador,