On the Noodle Road: From Beijing to Rome, with Love and Pasta [NOOK Book]

Overview

A food writer travels the Silk Road, immersing herself in a moveable feast of foods and cultures and discovering some surprising truths about commitment, independence, and love.

As a newlywed traveling in Italy, Jen Lin-Liu was struck by culinary echoes of the delicacies she ate and cooked back in China, where she’d lived for more than a decade. Who really invented the noodle? she wondered, like many before her. But also: How had food and ...
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On the Noodle Road: From Beijing to Rome, with Love and Pasta

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Overview

A food writer travels the Silk Road, immersing herself in a moveable feast of foods and cultures and discovering some surprising truths about commitment, independence, and love.

As a newlywed traveling in Italy, Jen Lin-Liu was struck by culinary echoes of the delicacies she ate and cooked back in China, where she’d lived for more than a decade. Who really invented the noodle? she wondered, like many before her. But also: How had food and culture moved along the Silk Road, the ancient trade route linking Asia to Europe—and what could still be felt of those long-ago migrations? With her new husband’s blessing, she set out to discover the connections, both historical and personal, eating a path through western China and on into Central Asia, Iran, Turkey, and across the Mediterranean.

The journey takes Lin-Liu into the private kitchens where the headscarves come off and women not only knead and simmer but also confess and confide. The thin rounds of dough stuffed with meat that are dumplings in Beijing evolve into manti in Turkey—their tiny size the measure of a bride’s worth—and end as tortellini in Italy. And as she stirs and samples, listening to the women talk about their lives and longings, Lin-Liu gains a new appreciation of her own marriage, learning to savor the sweetness of love freely chosen.



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Editorial Reviews

Publishers Weekly
Lin-Liu (Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China), a Southern California foodie repatriated to Beijing, where she ran a cooking school, returns with another ambitious culinary travelogue. This time she’s in search of the evolving noodle along the ancient Silk Road, the key trading route between western China and the Mediterranean. Intrigued by the question of who really invented pasta—did Marco Polo bring it back to Italy from China in the 13th century or had it been consumed by the Etruscans long before?—Lin-Liu embarked on a six-month trek through remote lands such as Tibet; Xinjiang, China, home of the Uighurs; the trio of “stans” (Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan); Iran, with its strangely alluring Persian noodles; and Turkey, where she taught an Istanbul cooking group how to make dumplings, before reaching the Mediterranean and Italy. Lin-Liu made a point of invading the kitchens of her hosts and local cooks, and she was amazed at similarities between regional noodle dishes and rustic Italian food; appalled or pleasantly surprised by strange ingredients; and, from yurt to hovel, delighted by the local hospitality. Lin-Liu’s journey is a bold palate-awakening adventure, endearingly rendered . (July)
NPR.org
…The offering that lingers longest is that capacity for wonder and empathy which opens up between hosts and visitors in even the most closed societies. It makes you wish that the world's cultures could mingle more freely, making peace by breaking bread. For now, though, this book stands as a tantalizing glimpse of what might be.
From the Publisher
"Delightful. . . . This book is not just for foodies or cooks: any and all will enjoy it." —-Library Journal Starred Review
Library Journal
The title of this delightful book is a play on the legendary Silk Road, the major trade route between Asia and Europe. Chef and cooking school founder Lin-Liu (Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China) wanted to settle a burning question: Who really invented the noodle? To do this, she embarked on a cooking and eating journey through China, Central Asia, Iran, Turkey, and Italy. She was occasionally joined by her husband, Craig, who adds charm and a personal feel to her culinary adventure. En route she met chefs of all sorts, some male but usually female. She learned about many different styles of regional cooking but also something about politics, religion, and humanity. As Lin-Liu mixes food, travel, and memoir, she also adds a sprinkling of humor: "Each time I ate noodles I felt I'd been presented with a bottomless bowl of strands. No matter how much I slurped and chewed, I would only get halfway through." VERDICT If Lin-Liu ran the world (or at least influenced its ambassadors), we'd all benefit from her empathy, humor, and attention to detail. This book is not just for foodies or cooks: any and all will enjoy it. [See Q&A with author on p. 102.]—Susan G. Baird, formerly with Oak Lawn P.L., IL
Kirkus Reviews
Global discoveries in pasta and wedlock by the Chinese-American author of Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China (2008). Newly married, having started a cooking school in Beijing (Black Sesame Kitchen) and still restlessly seeking new tastes and adventures, Lin-Liu resolved to travel the Silk Road, from Beijing to Rome, to explore how the art of making noodles evolved, from northwestern Chinese pulled noodles and dumplings to ravioli and risotto. Indeed, the author first had to settle the chicken-or-the-egg question: Did Marco Polo really introduce pasta to Italy after his trip east, or was pasta already enjoyed long before by the Etruscans? (A 4,000-year-old millet noodle was found in 2005 in Lajia but has since disintegrated.) Closing her cooking school and taking along her cooking teacher, her chef and her new American husband for the first leg of the journey by train north, to the land of the noodles, Lin-Liu proceeds by weaving autobiographical details into her percolating account—e.g., that she grew up under Taiwanese parents predominantly eating rice. She also provides historical lore; for example, wheat flour originated in Iran many thousands of years ago, yet the Chinese did not begin eating wheat noodles until the third century. Moving westward, from China through Tibet and further west to Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran and Turkey, poking into kitchens or observing chefs, she and her husband, who was more indulgent than enthusiastic, coming along largely for safety, penetrated confounding ethnic zones where the natives largely claimed noodles as their own, creating dishes with distinctive regional flavors. Ultimately, the travelers' arrival in Italy, where they made pasta with the sfoglias (female pasta pros), feels anticlimactic. A footloose, spontaneous and appetite-whetting journal of culinary adventure.
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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781101616192
  • Publisher: Penguin Group (USA)
  • Publication date: 7/25/2013
  • Sold by: Penguin Group
  • Format: eBook
  • Pages: 400
  • Sales rank: 216,430
  • File size: 3 MB

Meet the Author


Born in Chicago and raised in Southern California, Jen Lin-Liu attended Columbia University and went to China as a Fulbright fellow. The founder of Black Sesame Kitchen, a Beijing cooking school, she is the author Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey through China. She has written about food, culture, and travel for The New York TimesThe Wall Street JournalSaveurNewsweekTravel + Leisure, and other publications. She lives in Chengdu, China.
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Read an Excerpt

Prologue

The year after we married, Craig and I went to Italy for Christmas. It was
our first time in Europe together, a break from years of living and traveling
in Asia. After a week of hiking along precipitous cliffs on the Amalfi coast
that dropped into the sparkling blue Mediterranean, we drove to Rome. In
a neighborhood called Trastevere, full of winding alleys and couples in embrace,
my husband led me to a restaurant called Le Fate and surprised me
with a belated holiday gift: a pasta-making class. In the cluttered kitchen,
we stood before the chef and proprietor, a man named Andrea. With dark
espresso eyes and curly brown hair, the chef happily played the part of the
handsome Italian guy female tourists swoon over. He flirted, chatted, and
joked with guests as they arrived. But once class began, he cleared his throat
and surveyed the room with narrowed eyes. The room fell as silent as a
church before mass.

“Americans,” Andrea declared, “think that Italians use a lot of garlic.”
He placed a single garlic clove on the stainless-steel counter, whacked it
with the back of a cast-iron frying pan, and held up the flattened result.
“We do not use a lot of garlic. Delete this information from your brain!”

At the counter, Andrea began breaking eggs with bright yellow yolks
into a crater he’d made in a mound of finely ground, refined flour. After
working the eggs into the flour, he vigorously kneaded and flattened the
dough with a rolling pin, gradually stretching the pliable putty into long
sheets almost as thin as newsprint. He wound a sheet tightly around the
pin, then swung it to and fro, releasing the dough so that it folded over itself
in neat S-shaped layers. After cutting them into slivers, he shook the pieces
in the air like a magician, unfurling long, wide strands of pasta.

Over my years of learning how to cook in China, I’d come across many
pasta shapes that echoed ones in Italy. Chinese “cat’s ear” noodles resembled
Italian orecchiette. Hand-pulled noodles, a specialty of China’s northwest,
were stretched as thin as angel hair. Dumplings and wontons were
folded in ways similar to ravioli and tortellini. Even the more obscure
shapes of Italian pasta—handkerchief-like squares called quadrellini, for
example—had their Chinese counterparts. Each time I’d come across a
new shape, it seemed coincidental.

But at Andrea’s that morning, as I watched and mimicked the pasta-
making, it all seemed to add up to something more. Andrea’s movements
followed the textbook method for making Chinese hand-rolled noodles, a
dish I’d practiced countless times in Beijing. It was a revelation. With
eggs rather than water, a few extra-clumsy movements, and flour inadvertently
winding up all over my hands and face, I, like Andrea, could make
fettuccine!

Though the trip was meant to be a break from the Far East, my mind
couldn’t help drifting back to China as I tasted the food across Italy. In
Venice, the seafood risottos reminded me of my grandmother’s congee. I
learned that the Venetians had a history of sweet-and-sour dishes, thanks to
the city’s spice trade with the Orient, though many had faded with time. On
the Amalfi coast, as we sipped limoncello after dinner, a chef told us that
Italians, like Chinese, drank liquor infused with other ingredients in order
to relieve everyday ailments.

After that trip, I began to cook more Italian food. In an arrabbiata sauce,
I discovered that the balance of acidic tomatoes, hot chilies, and sugar
seemed to echo the flavor of spicy noodle dishes in western China. When I
drizzled olive oil and vinegar over my salads, I noticed the effect was similar
to the sesame oil and black vinegar in the cold salads of China’s north.
In the mushrooms, aged meats, and prodigious Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese grated over pastas, I saw the Italian affinity for a flavor called umami
that the Chinese highly prize. As I ate the dishes, I realized that the two
cuisines also had common philosophies: they were both essentially humble
and rustic, elevating the essence of ingredients over fancy preparations.
And both were best home-cooked.

With all the parallels and similarities lingering in my head, I found myself
thinking about the familiar story of how Marco Polo brought noodles
from China to Italy. Even the Chinese knew the tale, but they liked to tell it
with embellishment: Marco Polo also tried meat-filled buns in China,
which he attempted to re-create when he returned home. But he couldn’t
remember how to fold the dough, and Italy ended up with a second-rate
mess-of-a-bun called pizza.

Both stories are myths—overwhelming evidence shows that Italians
were eating pasta before the birth of the Venetian explorer. Most experts
trace the Marco Polo story back to a 1929 issue of The Macaroni Journal, a
now-defunct publication of a pasta trade association. The anonymously
written article appeared in between advertisements for industrial pasta-
making equipment, and it reads like fiction: Marco Polo arrives by boat to
a place that sounds more South Pacific than Chinese and comes across natives
drying long strands of pasta. (In reality, Chinese wheat noodles are a
tradition of the northern hinterlands and are rarely dried before cooking.)
The story was intended to spur the consumption of pasta, back then a
novelty to most Americans.

Food historians have since produced an array of conflicting theories
about the provenance of noodles. Some credit the ancient Etruscans, suggesting
that pictures in caves depict pasta-making. Others attribute the invention
to the successors of the Etruscans: Romans flattened sheets of
dough called lagana, suggesting an early version of lasagna. Or perhaps the
first incarnation of noodles appeared with Arab caravan traders, who developed
dried ones that were light and easy to transport, predecessors of
the instant kind. But then maybe the staple originated in the birthplace
of wheat, in the Middle East, and traveled by divergent paths to
Italy and China, claims another camp. Still others credit the Uighurs, a
Turkic-speaking minority who straddle Central Asia and China.

The more research I did, the more confused I became; it seemed like
there were limitless theories about the origin of noodles and how they’d
spread. The topic was the subject of endless fascination. “Yes, you must find
out who invented noodles!” friends told me as I related my research—as if
it were as easy as establishing who’d invented the telephone. Then I came
across a report that seemed to debunk all the theories: scientists had found
a four-thousand-year-old noodle in northwestern China, confirming the
conventional wisdom that the Chinese had invented the staple, adding to an
impressive list of Chinese inventions that included gunpowder, paper, the
printing press, and the compass. But even that news didn’t explain how the
dish had traveled so many thousands of miles to Italy.

The theories were also intriguing for the wide swath of territory they
covered, a region bounded by the seven-thousand-mile-long network of
trade routes that connected Europe and Asia known as the Silk Road. It
was as much a concept as it was a physical entity. The “Silk Road” was a
term coined in 1877, long after the demise of the route itself, by a German
explorer and geographer named Baron Ferdinand von Richthofen. Like
Marco Polo, the mythical path came with a story. Around the birth of
Christ, the Romans were first introduced to an ethereal fabric called silk,
which they learned came from a mysterious place called China. The desire
for the textile set off one of the first major waves of globalization: caravans
of traders and camels traversed barren deserts, grasslands, and mountains
to satisfy the demands of emperors. No single route existed; the Silk Road
described a tangle of overland paths that undulated through Central Asia
and the Middle East before reaching Italy via the Mediterranean Sea.
Marco Polo was just one of many adventurers who traveled along them. But
the glory of the Silk Road faded with the rise of maritime trade in the fifteenth
century. Territories once widely traversed fell into isolation. Yet the
romance of the fabled path persisted through the handful of explorers who
made the arduous overland journey and wrote of their experiences.

While conducting my noodle research, I also looked into the movement
of ingredients along the Silk Road. Precious flavorings like saffron, which
originated in Persia, were traded like diamonds. Pomegranates, which hailed
from the Middle East and may have been the real forbidden fruit mentioned
in the Bible, found their way into Renaissance kitchens and Chinese gardens
alike. The names of certain ingredients hinted at their faraway origins: xigua,
the Chinese name for watermelon, means “western melon.” Conversely,
German-speaking Europeans refer to an orange as applesin, or “Chinese
apple.”

I was also surprised to learn that rhubarb had originated in China. The
country didn’t have a tradition of rhubarb pies or jam, nor did the plant
ever make it to the table; it was confined to the drawers of Chinese medicine
doctors, who dried and boiled it in potions to loosen their patients’
bowels. As rhubarb went west, Central Asians began chewing it raw and
Persians folded it into savory stews. Italians made bitter aperitifs with rhubarb,
and Marco Polo valued the plant enough to list it in his will. Only
after it was introduced to the English did it meet up with sugar and wend
its way into sweets. The plant was in such high demand in nineteenth-
century England that a powerful Qing Dynasty official proposed a rhubarb
embargo against Queen Victoria, hoping to bring a constipated nation to
the bargaining table during the Opium War; little did he know that English
bowels no longer depended on China’s rhubarb—the British had already
cultivated it in their own backyards.

Reading the travelogues of past explorers, I discovered that few, if any,
of the adventurers had made a trip to document food. The Chinese monk
Xuanzang traveled west in the seventh century in pursuit of Buddhist enlightenment.
The late nineteenth-century Swedish geographer Sven Hedin
mapped out previously uncharted parts of Central Asia. Not long after,
British archaeologist Aurel Stein discovered ancient Buddhist scriptures in
northwestern Chinese caves and took them home to London. Marco Polo,
who looked for new trade routes, did mention food in his diaries: he noted
a meal of macaroni but spent more time detailing how his Mongolian companions
dined on prairie dogs and camels and pricked the veins of their
horses to drink their blood.

It wasn’t the most enticing description of a meal, but I was already sold.

I decided that I would travel the Silk Road. I’d go to Rome again,
but journeying overland this time, starting from my longtime residence of
Beijing. In contrast to previous explorers, I would pursue a culinary mission:
I’d investigate how noodles had made their way along the Silk Road;
document and savor the changes in food and people as I moved from east
to west; learn what remained constant, what tied together the disparate
cultures of the Silk Road, and what links made up the chain connecting
two of the world’s greatest cuisines. I would seek out home cooks, young
and old, to see how recipes had been passed down and learn not only their
culinary secrets but their stories as well.

I thought I knew what I was getting into—after all, I’d traveled the
Chinese portion of the Silk Road before. Though I’d traveled for only a few
weeks, my trip had acquainted me with the culinary delights of western
China, unknown to much of the world; the country’s most celebrated regional
cuisines were in the east. But as I’d moved into the Chinese hinterlands,
I discovered that the noodles improved, becoming heartier, chewier,
and more various. The fruits grew more delicious, too—in the sun-soaked
western provinces of China, I tasted the sweetest melons and apricots of my
life. The people were equally fascinating. I ate noodles made by a woman
with piercing blue irises, striking in a face that otherwise looked Chinese.
Pushing into the far northwest region called Xinjiang, I became immersed
in a land of Middle Eastern– and Mediterranean-looking people. As I wandered
through a bazaar in the ancient trading town of Kashgar—full of
mosques, women in burqas, and donkey carts—I had to continually remind
myself I was still in China.

It hadn’t occurred to me on that maiden journey to venture farther than
China’s border. But now, with the noodle mystery gnawing at me, along
with so many other culinary questions, it became my obsession to travel the
Silk Road from start to finish. I knew what lay at the end of the fabled path,
having just vacationed in Italy. But I had no idea what lay in between. There
would be many challenges, I knew. Past explorers had written about the
physical demands of the journey, across windswept deserts and isolated
pastures and over high passes. Even in modern times, with cars and trains,
the journey, with its stops, would take me more than six months. I would
travel through a string of countries governed by despotic rulers. Much of
this terrain was Muslim, a faith I knew little about. Also I wondered about
how I’d be treated as a woman, moving across so many male-dominated
societies.

And beyond all that, I had recently become a wife. Though, as I fantasized
about my journey and began planning my route, that was the furthest
thing from my mind. After all, I’d traveled plenty before marriage—why
did it have to be any different now? I’d never had to take into account the
impact of an extended journey on my partner or my relationship. It was
something I didn’t think—or want—to figure into my trip. But the nagging
question was there: Just how would I manage it—alone, together? That dilemma
only grew sharper as my journey began.

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Customer Reviews

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Sort by: Showing all of 6 Customer Reviews
  • Posted August 4, 2013

    I Also Recommend:

    This is a very interesting book. The author explores the history

    This is a very interesting book. The author explores the history of food as it pertains to China, Italy, and all points in between.

    5 out of 5 people found this review helpful.

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
  • Posted August 10, 2013

    I Also Recommend:

    Jen Lin-Liu shows off a clever wit and inteligent writing style

    Jen Lin-Liu shows off a clever wit and inteligent writing style with her new book On the Noodle Road. The author mixes travelog about food with memoir about life. The result is an easy to follow, very enjoyable book.

    3 out of 3 people found this review helpful.

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
  • Posted January 7, 2015

    Interesting concept, pretty good writing, but the author kind of

    Interesting concept, pretty good writing, but the author kind of wore on me as she traveled along. 

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
  • Anonymous

    Posted August 29, 2013

    Good

    Good

    0 out of 1 people found this review helpful.

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
  • Posted July 23, 2013

    A wonderful read!

    A wonderful read!

    0 out of 3 people found this review helpful.

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
  • Anonymous

    Posted September 17, 2014

    No text was provided for this review.

Sort by: Showing all of 6 Customer Reviews

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