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St. John (Rammer Jammer Yellow Hammer) builds on his 2007 New York Times article about the Fugees, a soccer program for boys from families of refugees from war-torn nations who have been resettled in the town of Clarkston, Ga., 13 miles east of Atlanta. Led by the founder and coach Luma Mufleh, a strong-willed, Jordanian woman who turned her back on a privileged past to stay in America after attending Smith College, the three youth teams are a conglomeration of players from Africa, the Balkans and the Middle East. The challenges they face are many, including an ongoing fight against city hall for a field on which to play, and getting by with subpar equipment. Their biggest challenge, however, is the difficulty immigrants face in learning the ways of a strange land and living with the memories of tragedy (some players had lost a parent to violence or imprisonment). In spite of it all, the Fugees compete admirably with mostly white, better-funded suburban teams. St. John begins with an inspiring description of a beautifully played game and then delves into the team's formation, but his storytelling takes on the methodical approach of a long series of newspaper articles that lack narrative flair and progression. (Apr.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.1. When played beautifully, as Coach Luma might say, soccer is one of the world’s most fluid and graceful games. How does the nature of soccer refl ect and influence the ways in which the refugee children respond to the challenges of life in Clarkston? Is there something about the game that might make it particularly compelling for children who have endured war, violence, and displacement?
2. Coach Luma is also a Clarkston “outsider” in terms of her nationality. In what ways does her experience as an immigrant compare with those of her players? How does her “outsider” status affect the bond between the coach and her team?
3. Chapter 3 describes a study led by Harvard political scientist Robert Putnam that states that inhabitants of hyperdiverse communities tend to withdraw from collective life and distrust their neighbors. Are you surprised by Putnam’s findings? Why or why not? How can communities best overcome this unfortunate tendency? 4. How has the history of migration altered the cultural landscape in your community?
4. The Under 13s managed to develop a warm, familial connection with little regard to their cultural and religious differences, while the Under 15s were less successful in creating such an environment. Why were the younger Fugees able to bond in a way that their older counterparts were unable to achieve? How did that bond, or lack thereof, affect their performance both on and off the fi eld?
5. The refugee community in Clarkston is composed of a conglomerate of religions, ethnicities,and languages. How do the contrasting experiences of the Under 13 and Under 15 players relate to the complexities that face the refugee community as a whole?
6. With the arrival of the Somali Bantu in Clarkston, longtime Clarkston residents became alarmed about changes in their community even though refugees had been resettling in Clarkston since the 1980s. Why was the local response suddenly more intense at this point in Clarkston’s history of refugee resettlement?
7. How does Mandela Ziaty’s struggle with issues of identity differ from that of many American- born teenagers? Are there more similarities than differences? How does his dual identity as a defacto American and a displaced Liberian complicate this struggle?
8. In chapter 24, Jeremy Cole, a case manager at one of the refugee agencies in Clarkston, challenged his traditional beliefs by converting to Islam. How were he and other Americans working with the refugee communities provoked to re examine their own identities based upon their interactions with different cultures?
9. Discuss the problems involved in the Fugees’ search for a home field. Did the Clarkston government violate their human rights? What about the situation of the Lost Boys and the use of the soccer field?
1. When played beautifully, as Coach Luma might say, soccer is one of the world’s most fluid and graceful games. How does the nature of soccer refl ect and influence the ways in which the refugee children respond to the challenges of life in Clarkston? Is there something about the game that might make it particularly compelling for children who have endured war, violence, and displacement?
2. Coach Luma is also a Clarkston “outsider” in terms of her nationality. In what ways does her experience as an immigrant compare with those of her players? How does her “outsider” status affect the bond between the coach and her team?
3. Chapter 3 describes a study led by Harvard political scientist Robert Putnam that states that inhabitants of hyperdiverse communities tend to withdraw from collective life and distrust their neighbors. Are you surprised by Putnam’s findings? Why or why not? How can communities best overcome this unfortunate tendency? 4. How has the history of migration altered the cultural landscape in your community?
4. The Under 13s managed to develop a warm, familial connection with little regard to their cultural and religious differences, while the Under 15s were less successful in creating such an environment. Why were the younger Fugees able to bond in a way that their older counterparts were unable to achieve? How did that bond, or lack thereof, affect their performance both on and off the fi eld?
5. The refugee community in Clarkston is composed of a conglomerate of religions, ethnicities, and languages. How do the contrasting experiences of the Under 13 and Under 15 players relate to the complexities that face the refugee community as a whole?
6. With the arrival of the Somali Bantu in Clarkston, longtime Clarkston residents became alarmed about changes in their community even though refugees had been resettling in Clarkston since the 1980s. Why was the local response suddenly more intense at this point in Clarkston’s history of refugee resettlement?
7. How does Mandela Ziaty’s struggle with issues of identity differ from that of many American- born teenagers? Are there more similarities than differences? How does his dual identity as a defacto American and a displaced Liberian complicate this struggle?
8. In chapter 24, Jeremy Cole, a case manager at one of the refugee agencies in Clarkston, challenged his traditional beliefs by converting to Islam. How were he and other Americans working with the refugee communities provoked to re examine their own identities based upon their interactions with different cultures?
9. Discuss the problems involved in the Fugees’ search for a home field. Did the Clarkston government violate their human rights? What about the situation of the Lost Boys and the use of the soccer field?
We are always encountered with media spewing forth details of incidents where people's lives have been torn apart due to war, famines, riots or other similar disasters, but seldom do we come across to what happens to those who pass through these incidents and live on. How life changes for them, and how they adapt to newer surroundings. Outcsasts United is a small glimpse into such a realm.
The book is primarily situated in Clarkston, a small city close to Atlanta. Clarkston became a refugee settlement centre during the 1990's. Formerly, Clarkston was a stereotypical small town in America. Hence, for the refugees and the town inhabitants, the collision between the cultures erupting into a struggle for their identities is the central theme of the book.
The protagonist is Luma Mufleh, a young Jordanian woman from a well-to-do family and finishes ger education in USA. She arrived in Decatur(a neighboring town) and during one of her shopping trips, she stumbled upon a group of young refugees playing football in Clarkston. This leads her to create a small football program in town.
Each player in the book has their own distinct background, which is explained in great detail. After going across these disparities, it is not hard for one to understand the distrust between refugee communities and their hosts.
Mufleh acts as a mother, friend, translator and mentor to the children and their families. A set of rules was drawn up that all players were expected to adhere to. Disobediences brought exclusion from the team. Having little experience of coaching, she learns from her mistakes. She committed herself to the teams and expected the same in return.
The central theme of the book is the way that football unites a group of different people, from completely different backgrounds. Regardless of color, creed or any other denominator, all are welcomed. It is a simple story of how one human can inspire others, and how that helps others to escape whatever domestic ills they might have experienced. The narrative is from the coach's perspective with the children providing a nice counterbalance along the way.
2 out of 2 people found this review helpful.
Was this review helpful? Yes NoThank you for your feedback. Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.Anonymous
Posted December 11, 2011
This book is a very quick read with a great mesaage. Coach Luma is a very inspiring individual with a heart for refugees. I ejiyed reading about her journey with the team andthe incredible mission she is trying to accomplish. However i was not exactly a fan of the way the author portrayed the town. I feel like it was slightly jaded and made them look unwelcoming and i am very sure this was untrue of thebtown as a whole. As a whole the book is very inspiring. Go Fugees!
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Posted October 30, 2011
I was encouraged to turn the page with anticipation throughout this inspiring true story of the Fugees and the coach who taught them the values of team work and self-discipline. The author, Warren St. John, brings the story to life with his simple yet realistic vocabulary, making me want to stand up and cheer whether it be during a soccer game or a heartwarming moment between Coach Luma and her fellow teammates. I especially enjoyed the moments where Luma failed to hide her emotions because she tried to give off such a tough attitude; but, just like a chocolate bon bon, she's a softie.
It was hard taking in the obstacles that Coach Luma and the Fugees had to face: the bitterness and discrimination from white residents and differing races, the limited resources in order to escape from their troubles, and wanting to be accepted by society. But Luma was not willing to give up, and as long as she kept fighting for what was rightfully fair, the Fugees had something to hope for.
I am still upset with the way the community over-reacted after seeing a team made up of child immigrants, play soccer. The city council should be fired immediately and replaced by people who actually believe in equal rights. Don't get me started with Officer Jordan, who was caught on tape committing police brutality on an African American.
By the time I finished this book, it made me think about pursuing the dreams and the goals I have always wanted to achieve because I could relate to the team during a certain game in the book where they said that it was up to them if they wanted to win, "Its not the coach who's playing the game, we are". The way the Fugees grew from underdog status to rising stars is always something to look up to because they got what they deserved and more. What started out as a team, turned out to be a family of different cultures and backgrounds.
Faith14
Posted October 20, 2011
This book was amazing! It provided such insight, but it was so well written. It made me not want to put it down. I had to read this for school, but I would definitely read it again! Such an inspiring story! Do yourself a favor and go buy this book! It's amazing. You will not regret it!
Was this review helpful? Yes NoThank you for your feedback. Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.W_LaCount
Posted August 16, 2011
I bought this book following my son's freshman orientation in Minnesota. The university staff told us that the book would be required reading for the students and encouraged all of us, parents as well as students, to read the book. I'm glad I did.
As the other reviewers will tell you, this is a story about three soccoer teams (sorted by age group) made up of refugees from many war torn countries in Europe, Asia, and Africa and the work of a female Jordanian coach doing extraordinary (though she might not consider it so) work with the help of people she comes in contact with to raise the spirits, expectations, and hopes of the boys who stick it out in her soccer and tutoring program. But the story isn't just about the team or the coach or soccer. It's also about America, becoming American, and the politics of an evolving American community affected by immigration.
The story made me think alot about how we Americans treat each other, what life must have been like for our ancestors as they came to this new land and as later immigrants joined them in later generations. This book was well worth reading and perhaps even re-reading.
ninja-beckham
Posted March 15, 2011
i love the book i judt got it and its great
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Posted February 20, 2011
Outcasts united is a truly amazing book. it brings you into the life of a refugee.
Was this review helpful? Yes NoThank you for your feedback. Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.trdconsult
Posted April 10, 2010
This is an interesting story, set in suburban Atlanta, that gets at two social/political issues - the crisis of displaced families, a crisis that is always present with changing locations, and the inner conflict in the US South between a parochial old guard that is not trusting or accepting of outsiders (while still maintaining an air of "Southern Hospitality") and a newer generation that is more homogenous in relation to the rest of the country, particularly when viewed through the lens of "soccer parents". The contrast between the "haves" and the "have nots", while not surprising, is certainly striking.
This story will make you angry many times. There is an interesting portion where St. John becomes part of the story, where the reader is forced to realize just how difficult it can be even in the small things to make the kinds of transitions the refugees are trying to make.
If you're getting it because you think this is a soccer book, you are mistaken. I still would suggest reading it, but the soccer is just the thread that links the various stories together. You still should read it, particularly if you are a player. The contrasts between soccer and life; haves and have nots; privileged and under-privileged; provide a framework for understanding your teammates, opponents, coaches, and parents.
I initially began this book because of One Book San Diego and my book club selected it. THEN I ended up reading excerpts to my 10 grade writing classes and now the book is out there with my students. Not only do I care for each person portrayed, I learned so much about the backgrounds which have 'been in the news' but have no true faces. I can't give this enough praise. Read it even though someone else you don't know recommends it.
Was this review helpful? Yes NoThank you for your feedback. Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.Anonymous
Posted January 30, 2010
I continued reading the book because I have agreed to lead the discussion for my book group otherwise I might have set it aside. If one is interested in the complex and convuluted history of Africa and other 3rd world countries it was useful. If one is interested in the technical aspects of playing soccer it might have been engaging. I found it to be a journalist's work without "punch". If it had stuck to the main story more and less about the background, it might have held my interest longer.
I admire the coach and her total devotion to her players. I learned a lot about resettlment communities and the effects of immigrants on the local social structures. That part is a lesson in modern day immigration impacts that is importatnt for citizens all over this country.
It is the story of a team which comprised of boys who hailed from Congo, Afganisthan and other countries whose families were selected by UNHCR for resettlement, of a town which was chosen as the home for these refugees and a coach who separated from her family, worked rigorously to maintain her soccer team. Outcasts United is a book which presents the plethora of challenges that people would have to encounter in a new community, a community where people have so little in common. It is also about how people adjust to these difficult situations and strive to make a difference in the society. Let us delve into the world of Outcasts United-The team, The town and The coach.
Fugees was the name of the team that comprised of boys who were refugees from numerous countries across Asia and Africa. They arrived with their families which were selected for resettlement in a small town outside Atlanta called Clarkston. They were poverty-stricken and devoid of any basic necessities for survival and thus received financial assistance from the government for three months before they could find jobs and make a living of their own. The children suffered the most-they were outcasts at school and at the same time experienced the numerous difficulties of getting caught between cultures which in this case are the their native culture and the American culture. Although they loved soccer, they had no place to play or no equipment necessary equipment .Their future was dim until coach Luma, who watched the boys play in the parking lot of an apartment complex, decided to start a refugee football team called the Fugees. From then, it was success all along.Although the team experienced a lot of problems, they did not still their intransient passion for the game which helped them compete against some of the league's best teams and emerge victorious. One would marvel at the unalterable determination of these boys who despite cultural barriers strived rigorously to satiate their passion for the game.
Luma Mefleh was a Jordanian-born daughter of a business man. She was graduate of Smith College and decided to settle and make a living in the USA. Most importantly, she was also a coach of the refugees, the football team comprised of the refugee. Not only was she a stringent coach but also was a soft-hearted person who spent time with the boy's families and helped them adjust to their new homes. Even though Luma had previous experiences as a coach, she faced many problems. She had to fight to find an appropriate place for the team in a town where soccer was a relatively new game. Apart from this, she also faced the added responsibility of managing a team which comprised of boys from various countries who did not know the importance of team effort in a game like soccer. t is inspiring to read about a female soccer coach, who separated from her family, goes against a league dominated by male coaches and attempts to emerge victorious.
The remaining element of the story is the town, a town where a large group of refugees have been congregated so that they could live a peaceful life that is devoid of any hardships that they had experienced back in their home towns. While many small towns around Atlanta had been swallowed by the growing development, Clarkston had proudly maintained its independence.
It is exciting to read how these different elements react in a story which depicts life and reality.
0 out of 1 people found this review helpful.
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Posted October 7, 2009
A fast paced modern day chronicle following the lives of various individuals from different walks of life, and the ability (or inability, at times)of a small town outside of Atlanta, Georgia to deal with the immense magnitude of change it has underwent-is what broadly defines Warren St John's book, Outcasts United.It is best to refer to his work as "a book" in general terms because it encompasses many different literary adaptations in telling the story of the "fugees". St John's narrative style shifts from biographical to chronicle as the story progresses. The book adopts a biographical tone primarily in describing the various stages of the life of coach Luma. From her early days under the shield of her wealthy Jordanian family, to her eventual disconnection with them following her decision to stay in the United States due to the liberalized atmosphere and attitude towards women, St John offers to the readers a back story to which so many parallels can be drawn as the story progresses. St John highlights the emotional and even financial sacrifices she makes in order to stay in the United States-she is determined to succeed and do whatever it takes to make it in America without her family's support (following her decision not to return to Jordan). In many ways, this foreshadows some events to come later in the story, where she would come across other young refugees, who come from much more desperate situations, but in the end also have the same goal-to achieve, survive, and succeed. As many critics agree, this chronicle is the product of passionate authorship and "a heartwarming tale about transformations that occur when our disparate lives connect." [Ishmael Beah].
The latter majority of the book details how Luma and the Fugees are united by a common sport-regardless of their race, creed, color, religion or ethnicity. However, as the audience will soon find out, there is one more dynamic to consider-the town of Clarkston, Georgia. What really makes St John's chronicle memorable is his account of what happens not only when Luma meets the kids, thus leading to the birth of the Fugees, but also, the ability of a small previously homogenous all American town to accept the magnitude of diversity they were faced with.Through various direct, and even subtle ways-St John manages to cover many angles of the interesting story, managing to stay informative, yet engaging. He does so primarily by "cross cutting" to different stories so as not to make the reading "linear" and static, but dynamic. In this way, the readers are not given the whole account of one person's story at a time, but rather different accounts of different events in the children's and Luma's lives in pieces. There are instances where the book begins to have some repetition. For example,St John gives a play by play commentary of some of the games, which from a readers perspective, is best fitted for movies not books, and slows down the reading slightly.But more importantly, this detracts from the main idea of the story, the main focus-on how Fugees struggle against tyranny individually,then work and face obstacles together upon coming to America. The book does end differently from traditional novels however. Unlike most books, this account has an irresolute ending. There is no definite solution, and this is not a lapse on St John's part, as the struggles of the fugees and Clarkston as a whole still continue.
0 out of 1 people found this review helpful.
Was this review helpful? Yes NoThank you for your feedback. Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.Allison20
Posted October 7, 2009
It is hard to imagine that so many miles away, there is so much despair and tragedy but this book shines a light on a different world that everyone needs to be aware. The stories of the individual refugees and their families are a focus and in each there are captivating experiences that kept me on the edge of my seat. Perhaps the most interesting story was that of Coach Luma, the leader of this amazing soccer team. Her struggles and triumphs are conveyed and the reader feels as they are along for the ride. She makes grand efforts to bring her team together and makes incredible sacrifices. The fact that all the boys on the team are from many different countries and have unique dialects also add to the challenge but their love of the sport drives them to push hard and aim for their goals. The author does a wonderful job of portraying the boys as individuals all overcoming their unique struggles in a new world. The city where this all occurs, Clarkston, GA, is also a feature in the book and we see the history as well as the present and future of the town and how the newcomers are affecting the already existent citizens. Throughout the whole book there are emotions of despair, difficulty, tragedy, sadness, but also joy, happiness, and success. The determination is prevalent and the reader feels proud of the boys and almost adopts them as their own. Outcasts united speaks to a wide array of audiences and not only do the boys in the book try to overcome their differences and unite but the readers also feel a sense of community once finished with their story.
The book delves into the complex issues of community, acceptance, and freedom. The way the refugees are treated by the older citizens of the city seems almost appalling but from their view, they are worried about encroachment on their values. With the coming of the refugees, other consequences are exposed such as crime, violence, gang membership and even hostel shootings. There are dangers, most Americans do not have to worry about, that are commonly present every day. All the refugees face terror and discrimination and the new language barrier is enough to try and handle. Confusion and mistreatment go hand in hand and the author depicts the harsh occurrences that make the struggle for the boys like a journey to escape their naturally expected future. The boys face threats and temptations to succumb to the reckless activities of other boys in the community but through the aid of the soccer team, there is the reason to stay focused and stay off the streets. Practices and tough schedules keep them busy and preoccupied so as not to get swept up in the mayhem of the town.
The fate of the boys is almost resting in the hands of their coach as she tries to help them with their studies as well as their family lives. She reaches out to the refugee community in an effort to help get dedicated players who will honor and respect her commitment by matching it with theirs on and off the field. She is extremely tough but always fair and sets a standard that strives for perfection and utmost perseverance. She wants to make sure she has the players that will not only bring success but pride to the name Fugees. She is the glue that holds these boys together and the author is sure to include all the events that highlight her hard exterior but also included are points where you know she is full of raw emotion and compassion for these refugee boys.
F
0 out of 1 people found this review helpful.
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Posted October 7, 2009
In the outskirts of Atlanta, Georgia lies a small suburban town called Clarkston. Filled with a curious mixture of old churches and international hole-in-the-wall shops, it causes one to look twice. Just like the rail line that splits the circular city boundaries in half, there is an unseen conflict between two cultural worldviews-the white populace ingrained in the model suburban American life, and an influx of refugees from points scattered around the globe.
After growing up in the midst of this turmoil, I am somewhat accustomed to it-but my experience had never been put in words. Warren St. John has taken Clarkston's situation-as well as the cities across the world experiencing the influx of refugees-and presented it for the world to see. Following the Fugees soccer team through a season of turmoil, conflict, and joy, Warren St. John pieces together the underlying threads of the history of the Fugees-from family members being imprisoned or killed, to their journey to Clarkston. He also presents the background of Clarkston, and how it's placement at the far end of Atlanta's public transit system and cheap housing made it the candidate for the refugees to live. Then, the clash begins, as worlds collide and both Clarkston and the refugees quizzically investigate one another, trying to grasp why the other acts the way they do.
This book is an invaluable tool and resource, as with all of history, there are lessons to be learned from our past experiences to be applied to future interactions. How can this book be applicable to the reader's life? Though there are, for certain, individuals who are directly impacted by the issues surrounding refugee resettlement-whether they are living in the "Clarkstons" of the world, or the refugees themselves-this book contains rich insights into much less extreme situations that we all encounter in our daily routine. How do we, as individuals, connect with those around us, who may have vastly different cultural backgrounds? In Outcasts United, Warren St. John finds the connection amongst the refugees in Clarkston to be soccer. Despite their cultural barrier, not to mention their language barrier, the refugees in Clarkston are able to embrace their common ground with the help of their coach, Luma Mufleh. Does this common ground allow them to unite? Not always. There is a choice that must be made-a choice not to abandon who they are, but a choice to serve the rest of the team.
It would be a shame that the complex cultural backgrounds of society would be lost-while it would potentially be easier, the world would lose the richness of cultures that balance each other out. For example, imagine the cultures of the world as the ingredients of a cake made from scratch. The cake would never exist unless each part was included-if all the cake was flour, it would be a tasteless mess indeed! Each ingredient must exist for the flavor to come out. However, we as members of various cultures, have a choice. If we refuse to mix, but rather stay in our own cluster with the rest of our kind, the cake will fail as well. The reason the Fugees soccer team ever held together was that Coach Luma stipulated that those who were a part of the team went by her orders-one of which was to mix up the players. However, even Luma's strong leadership cannot hold together her Under 15 team-the choice to succeed must be made at the individual level.
Warren St. John's book brings this challenge to its readers-will we, like Luma, like th
0 out of 1 people found this review helpful.
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Posted October 1, 2009
I loved this book. The author includes stories about several of the boys, and background on the country and conflict from which they came. I have never considered refugees in this country and their plight. Makes me want to get involved and volunteer.
0 out of 1 people found this review helpful.
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Posted June 29, 2009
You should read this book. That being said, the book drags in parts and can't really decide whether to focus on the plight of refugees in America or on the excitement of watching kids play soccer. Consequently, it kind of meanders and loses focus even though writing about a topic that is easy to make compelling and emotionally moving.
I have a great deal of familiarity with refugees, so some of the material about refugees was repetitive for me, but even putting that aside, St. John could have done a much better job of telling the refugees' stories. For people who are not familiar with refugees in the U.S., this is a good place to start.
As for the soccer part, St. John is not a sportswriter and it shows. Some writers have the talent to capture the excitement of a sporting event, others don't.
Nonetheless, buy (or at least read) this book - the only way we can assure that these refugees make it in our society is if we extend a hand of friendship and welcome them in.
BrendaC
Posted June 20, 2009
I was so excited when I saw the advertisement for this book that I ordered it right away. As a person who works full-time with refugee children and as a soccer enthusiast, it was a perfect book. The author follows the lives of the children on this unique soccer team and describes their daily struggles in a poignant and realistic manner. I am recommending it to all my teacher friends who work with refugee children.
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Posted April 23, 2009
I picked this book up in a rush before the store closed, and figured at the very least, if I wasn't interested, I would donate it to the school library.
Spectacular story. Warren St. John should be commended for the excellent job he did telling this important piece of social history.
The good ole boys of Clarkston, need to read the book. Perhaps they would see what outsiders see. What an opportunity they have. Luma bridged some serious gaps and built bridges where none should have been able to be built.
I smell a movie in the making.
As for the library... I will purchase them a copy.
This book delves into the personal histories of a youth soccer team located in Clarkston, GA, which is comprised of a ethnically diverse group of boys recently resettled in the U.S. The author not only explains each family's personal journey to the U.S. and the problems they had making a new life here, but he also covers the historical events that led up to each particular war or uprising that forced each family away from their homeland. The reporting of the events is largely done with admirable journalistic impartiality and the soccer action is sports writing at its best. The reader is left with a hope that the Fugees finally find a practice field to call their own and a vague desire to have every one of the "Clarkston Old Guard" read this book.
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Posted June 14, 2009
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Overview
BONUS: This edition contains a reader's guide.The extraordinary tale of a refugee youth soccer team and the transformation of a small American town
Clarkston, Georgia, was a typical Southern town until it was designated a refugee settlement center in the 1990s, becoming the first American home for scores of families in flight from the world’s war zones—from Liberia and Sudan to Iraq and Afghanistan. Suddenly Clarkston’s streets were filled with women wearing the hijab, the smells of cumin and curry, and kids of all colors playing soccer in any open space they could find. The town ...