Table of Contents
Photographs xi
Foreword Diane Johnson xiii
By Way of Introduction 1
Paris Places
It's the Water: The Seine 7
A Day in the Park: The Luxembourg Gardens 17
A Lively City of the Dead: Père-Lachaise Cemetery 25
François's Follies: Building Afresh in a Museum City 34
Island in the Seine: Île Saint-Louis 46
Montsouris and Buttes-Chaumont: The Art of the Faux 55
Going Underground 63
Place des Vosges 73
Belly Ache: Les Halles Redux (Again) 83
Hit the Road Jacques 97
Paris People
Coco Chanel 111
Les Bouquinistes 120
Midnight, Montmartre, and Modigliani 129
The Boat People of the Seine 139
Meeting Moreau 148
The Perils of Pompidou 156
Keepers of the Craft: Paris Artisans 165
Dear Dead Vincent van Gogh 176
Beaumarchais's Marais 187
Madame X's Seduction School 195
Paris Phenomena
In the Spring 205
La Ville Lumière: Paris, City of Light 212
Of Cobbles, Bikes, and Bobos 221
Philosophy au Lait 230
Sidewalk Sundae: What Makes Paris Paris 236
Vie de Chien: A Dog's Life 245
Why the Marais Changed Its Spots 256
Night Walking 267
Grave Situations 275
The Janus City, or, Why the Year 1900 Lives On 283
Life's a Café 295
Acknowledgments 305