Patternmaking: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design / Edition 1by Sylvia Rosen
Pub. Date: 02/03/2004
Publisher: Prentice Hall
This text covers all the technical aspects of developing precise professional patterns for garments, and gives students a firm foundation in the tools, concepts, and understandings necessary for success in this highly competitive industry. The focus throughout is on the procedures and principles of professional flat patternmaking using Basic Slopers (i.e., Pattern
This text covers all the technical aspects of developing precise professional patterns for garments, and gives students a firm foundation in the tools, concepts, and understandings necessary for success in this highly competitive industry. The focus throughout is on the procedures and principles of professional flat patternmaking using Basic Slopers (i.e., Pattern Blocks, Master Patterns, or Foundation Patterns), and on cutting and testing each completed pattern in tissue, pinned on the form completely marked. This enables the student to learn, and review, the concepts for developing patterns, step-by-step and see the translation of style lines from a two-dimensional flat pattern on the table, to a three-dimensional pattern on a mannequin (fitting dummy). This text is an excellent visual learning tool, especially critical to the vast number of ESL and International students attending design schools.
Table of Contents
1. Introduction to Patterns and Patternmaking.
What Is a Pattern? What Is Patternmaking? How Are Patterns Used? Pattern Development. The Designer. History of Patterns and Patternmaking. Pattern and Design Terminology. Tools for Patternmaking. Supplies for Patternmaking. Basic Rules for Patterns. Preparing the Dress Form for Measurement. Different Forms for Different Functions.
2. Introduction to Slopers.
Front Measurements. Back Measurements. Skirt Measurements. Sleeve Measurements. Measurements for Pants. Measurements for Pants: Crotch. Style Lines for Pants. Measurements and Style Lines for Skirts. Drafting Basic Slopers from Measurements. Basic One-Piece Straight Sleeve Draft. Walking the Sleeve Around the Armhole. Adding Ease to Slopers. Basic Length Pants. Completing Patterns and Slopers.
3. Slopers and Sub-Slopers.
1/4 Scale Slopers. 1/2 Scale Slopers and Sub-Slopers.
4. Introduction to Dart Manipulation.
Basic Bodice. Bodices: Tucks. Bodice: Gathers and More. Bodice: Necklines.
5. Necklines and Collars.
Neck Facings. Collars.
6. Short Sleeves.
Short Sleeves (4" Below Biceps). Short Sleeves with Raised and Gathered Caps. Short Petal Sleeves (One and Two Piece).
Basic A-Line (Flared) Skirt. Circle Skirts. Godet Skirts. Six-Gore Skirts.
8. Bodice and Sleeve Pattern.
Revere Bodice with Three-Dart Short Sleeve. Short Kimono Sleeve.
9. Sleeve/Bodice Combinations.
Raglan Sleeves. Fitted Drop Shoulder Sleeves. Deep Armhole Drop Shoulder Sleeves. Kimono Sleeves with Gusset. Kimono/Dolman Sleeve Variations. Batwing Sleeves.
Shirt and Shirttail Hem. Action Sleeve with Roll-Up Cuff. Deep Armhole Raglan. Basic Raglan Shirt Sleeve and Variation.
Shirt Collar. Bow Tie Collar. Turtleneck Collar.
Long Straight Sleeve to One-Dart Shaped Sleeve. Set-In Sleeves.
Skirt Shapes. Skirt Styles and Patterns.
14. Capes and Hoods.
15. Torso Slopers.
Torso Slopers. Patterns for Torso Slopers.
16. Garment Details.
Buttons and Buttonholes. Seam, Hem, and Sewing Stitches. Snaps and Zippers.
17. Figure Analysis.
Body Shapes. Basic Silhouettes and Shapes Used for Apparel Designs.
18. The Fashion Industry.
Fashion Personnel. Color. The Manufacturing Process. Flats and Specs.
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