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Overview

This text covers all the technical aspects of developing precise professional patterns for garments, and gives students a firm foundation in the tools, concepts, and understandings necessary for success in this highly competitive industry. The focus throughout is on the procedures and principles of professional flat patternmaking using Basic Slopers (i.e., Pattern Blocks, Master Patterns, or Foundation Patterns), and on cutting and testing each completed pattern in tissue, pinned on the form completely marked. This enables the student to learn, and review, the concepts for developing patterns, step-by-step and see the translation of style lines from a two-dimensional flat pattern on the table, to a three-dimensional pattern on a mannequin (fitting dummy). This text is an excellent visual learning tool, especially critical to the vast number of ESL and International students attending design schools.

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780130262431
  • Publisher: Prentice Hall
  • Publication date: 2/3/2004
  • Series: Pearson Custom Library: Fashion Series
  • Format: Spiral Bound
  • Edition description: SPIRAL
  • Edition number: 1
  • Pages: 640
  • Product dimensions: 8.20 (w) x 10.80 (h) x 1.40 (d)

Meet the Author

Sylvia Rosen has 35 years of industry experience as a Designer, Design Director, and Merchandiser, working and commuting to New York from her native Philadelphia. She was employed by industry leaders including Jordache, Members Only, John Henry, Haggar, Devon Apparel, and Andover Togs; traveling to the Orient for many years, working with buyers from major chains and stores. Ms. Rosen ran her own company in New York, where she designed and manufactured an upscale collection of girls' pre-teen, jr. dresses and sportswear. These sold to better department and specialty stores and boutiques. Simultaneously, Ms. Rosen has for 28 years been an instructor at Parsons School of Design in New York, where she currently continues to teach fashion design students. She is also an Adjunct Associate Professor in Design and Merchandising at Drexel University, Philadelphia, and a freelance consultant and technical designer in New York.

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Read an Excerpt

This text will take students who have never made a pattern or sewn a garment through the steps from concept to completion. This book's objective is to enable beginners through intermediate students to develop a proficiency and understanding of the procedures and principles used in pattern-making, using the methodology taught and tested in the classroom.

Focusing on one section of a garment at a time—the bodice, sleeve, collar, skirt, and pant—students will learn to combine and interchange pattern pieces using information absorbed in each previous lesson.

The patterns selected for this text are not meant, at this stage, to make a fashion statement. Rather, they represent design challenges that are a learning tool for manipulating patterns, using pivot and slash, and the integration of both methods. These principles can be applied to garments currently in style.

Upon completion, all patterns should be trued, traced, and cut in yellow tissue paper, pinned, and tested. This enables students to develop their vision working with a two-dimensional flat pattern translated to a three-dimensional pattern pinned and fitted on the dress form. All patterns should be checked for fit, balance, position, and shape of style lines, and accuracy of matching notches and grain lines, and necessary corrections should be made. Patterns are pinned together in the same manner as a style that has been draped. Thus the relationship between patternmaking and draping can be understood. Every garment that is draped must also be corrected, trued, and transferred to pattern paper before it can be cut into fabric and sewn.

Patternmahing: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design is divided into 18 chapters covering patternmaking and information related to fashion and design. A brief description of each chapter follows. Chapters 4 through 7 make up Patternmaking 1, while Chapters 8 through 18 make up Patternmaking 2.

  • Chapter 1 introduces patterns—showing dress forms in various positions—plus tools, pattern terminology, and basic rules.
  • Chapter 2 is an introduction to drafting basic sets of slopers and pants by measuring the dress form. Diagrams illustrate adding ease to basic slopers, trueing, and blending shapes and lines.
  • Chapter 3 shows quarter-size and half-size dopers; basic sets in both sizes plus raglan, kimono-dolman variations, shirt, torso, and pants. These can be traced to card stock, cut out, and used for developing practice patterns in the classroom.
PATTERNMAKING 1
  • Chapter 4: Bodices; introduction to dart manipulation, pivot and slash methods.
  • Chapter 5: Collar and neckline variations and facings.
  • Chapter 6: Short sleeves gathered and puffed, using the slash method.
  • Chapter 7: A-line to full-circle skirts, pleated and flared godets.
PATTERNMAKING 2
  • Chapter 8: Revere and shawl collar bodices, sleeves and facings.
  • Chapter 9: Raglan, drop shoulders, kimono, dolman, batwing variations.
  • Chapter 10: Shirts and sleeves and the basic structure for their development.
  • Chapter 11: Collars; One- and two-piece shirt collars, bow tie, and turtle neck.
  • Chapter 12: Shirt sleeve variations, plackets, and long sleeve styles.
  • Chapter 13: Skirts with flounces, tiers, pegged, and sarong.
  • Chapter 14: Drafting a circular cape and hood.
  • Chapter 15: Converting dress to suit to coat torso slopers, plus one- and two-piece sleeves. These can be added to the quarter-size doper set.
  • Chapter 16: Garment details, button chart, buttons, seams, hems, zippers.
  • Chapter 17: Figure analysis and fashion silhouettes.
  • Chapter 18: Flats, specs, points of measurement.
  • Appendices: Style Terminology, Fabric Glossary, Trimming Terminology, Measurement Charts, and Metric Conversion Table.

Although there are many ways to plot and make flat patterns, the instructions illustrated in this book are proven methods. They provide students with the necessary tools, concepts, and understanding to master this technical and precise discipline. This book will serve as a valuable tool, allowing readers to develop patterns for professional garments and function efficiently in a highly competitive industry.

Sylvia Rosen

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Table of Contents

1. Introduction to Patterns and Patternmaking.

What Is a Pattern? What Is Patternmaking? How Are Patterns Used? Pattern Development. The Designer. History of Patterns and Patternmaking. Pattern and Design Terminology. Tools for Patternmaking. Supplies for Patternmaking. Basic Rules for Patterns. Preparing the Dress Form for Measurement. Different Forms for Different Functions.

2. Introduction to Slopers.

Front Measurements. Back Measurements. Skirt Measurements. Sleeve Measurements. Measurements for Pants. Measurements for Pants: Crotch. Style Lines for Pants. Measurements and Style Lines for Skirts. Drafting Basic Slopers from Measurements. Basic One-Piece Straight Sleeve Draft. Walking the Sleeve Around the Armhole. Adding Ease to Slopers. Basic Length Pants. Completing Patterns and Slopers.

3. Slopers and Sub-Slopers.

1/4 Scale Slopers. 1/2 Scale Slopers and Sub-Slopers.

4. Introduction to Dart Manipulation.

Basic Bodice. Bodices: Tucks. Bodice: Gathers and More. Bodice: Necklines.

5. Necklines and Collars.

Neck Facings. Collars.

6. Short Sleeves.

Short Sleeves (4" Below Biceps). Short Sleeves with Raised and Gathered Caps. Short Petal Sleeves (One and Two Piece).

7. Skirts.

Basic A-Line (Flared) Skirt. Circle Skirts. Godet Skirts. Six-Gore Skirts.

8. Bodice and Sleeve Pattern.

Revere Bodice with Three-Dart Short Sleeve. Short Kimono Sleeve.

9. Sleeve/Bodice Combinations.

Raglan Sleeves. Fitted Drop Shoulder Sleeves. Deep Armhole Drop Shoulder Sleeves. Kimono Sleeves with Gusset. Kimono/Dolman Sleeve Variations. Batwing Sleeves.

10. Shirts.

Shirt and Shirttail Hem. Action Sleeve with Roll-Up Cuff. Deep Armhole Raglan. Basic Raglan Shirt Sleeve and Variation.

11. Collars.

Shirt Collar. Bow Tie Collar. Turtleneck Collar.

12. Sleeves.

Long Straight Sleeve to One-Dart Shaped Sleeve. Set-In Sleeves.

13. Skirts.

Skirt Shapes. Skirt Styles and Patterns.

14. Capes and Hoods.

Capes. Hoods.

15. Torso Slopers.

Torso Slopers. Patterns for Torso Slopers.

16. Garment Details.

Buttons and Buttonholes. Seam, Hem, and Sewing Stitches. Snaps and Zippers.

17. Figure Analysis.

Body Shapes. Basic Silhouettes and Shapes Used for Apparel Designs.

18. The Fashion Industry.

Fashion Personnel. Color. The Manufacturing Process. Flats and Specs.

Appendices.

Index.

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Preface

This text will take students who have never made a pattern or sewn a garment through the steps from concept to completion. This book's objective is to enable beginners through intermediate students to develop a proficiency and understanding of the procedures and principles used in pattern-making, using the methodology taught and tested in the classroom.

Focusing on one section of a garment at a time—the bodice, sleeve, collar, skirt, and pant—students will learn to combine and interchange pattern pieces using information absorbed in each previous lesson.

The patterns selected for this text are not meant, at this stage, to make a fashion statement. Rather, they represent design challenges that are a learning tool for manipulating patterns, using pivot and slash, and the integration of both methods. These principles can be applied to garments currently in style.

Upon completion, all patterns should be trued, traced, and cut in yellow tissue paper, pinned, and tested. This enables students to develop their vision working with a two-dimensional flat pattern translated to a three-dimensional pattern pinned and fitted on the dress form. All patterns should be checked for fit, balance, position, and shape of style lines, and accuracy of matching notches and grain lines, and necessary corrections should be made. Patterns are pinned together in the same manner as a style that has been draped. Thus the relationship between patternmaking and draping can be understood. Every garment that is draped must also be corrected, trued, and transferred to pattern paper before it can be cut into fabric and sewn.

Patternmahing: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design is divided into 18 chapters covering patternmaking and information related to fashion and design. A brief description of each chapter follows. Chapters 4 through 7 make up Patternmaking 1, while Chapters 8 through 18 make up Patternmaking 2.

  • Chapter 1 introduces patterns—showing dress forms in various positions—plus tools, pattern terminology, and basic rules.
  • Chapter 2 is an introduction to drafting basic sets of slopers and pants by measuring the dress form. Diagrams illustrate adding ease to basic slopers, trueing, and blending shapes and lines.
  • Chapter 3 shows quarter-size and half-size dopers; basic sets in both sizes plus raglan, kimono-dolman variations, shirt, torso, and pants. These can be traced to card stock, cut out, and used for developing practice patterns in the classroom.

PATTERNMAKING 1

  • Chapter 4: Bodices; introduction to dart manipulation, pivot and slash methods.
  • Chapter 5: Collar and neckline variations and facings.
  • Chapter 6: Short sleeves gathered and puffed, using the slash method.
  • Chapter 7: A-line to full-circle skirts, pleated and flared godets.

PATTERNMAKING 2

  • Chapter 8: Revere and shawl collar bodices, sleeves and facings.
  • Chapter 9: Raglan, drop shoulders, kimono, dolman, batwing variations.
  • Chapter 10: Shirts and sleeves and the basic structure for their development.
  • Chapter 11: Collars; One- and two-piece shirt collars, bow tie, and turtle neck.
  • Chapter 12: Shirt sleeve variations, plackets, and long sleeve styles.
  • Chapter 13: Skirts with flounces, tiers, pegged, and sarong.
  • Chapter 14: Drafting a circular cape and hood.
  • Chapter 15: Converting dress to suit to coat torso slopers, plus one- and two-piece sleeves. These can be added to the quarter-size doper set.
  • Chapter 16: Garment details, button chart, buttons, seams, hems, zippers.
  • Chapter 17: Figure analysis and fashion silhouettes.
  • Chapter 18: Flats, specs, points of measurement.
  • Appendices: Style Terminology, Fabric Glossary, Trimming Terminology, Measurement Charts, and Metric Conversion Table.

Although there are many ways to plot and make flat patterns, the instructions illustrated in this book are proven methods. They provide students with the necessary tools, concepts, and understanding to master this technical and precise discipline. This book will serve as a valuable tool, allowing readers to develop patterns for professional garments and function efficiently in a highly competitive industry.

Sylvia Rosen

Read More Show Less

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