Table of Contents
Acknowledgements ix
My Oil Story 4
Let's Look at the Lipids 9
Terms: What is Essential? 10
Chapter 1 Oils of the Plant World 13
Lipids and the Fixed, Carrier, and Base Oils 14
Essential Oils 16
Spiritual Nature of Oils 19
Regional Differences in Oil-Bearing Plants 20
Oils in Human Culture 21
Chapter 2 Lipid Structure and Chemistry 101 The Structure of Fixed Oils 22
Fatty Acids and Triglycerides 23
The Carbon Chains 25
Fatty Acids 26
Saturated Oils and Fatty Acids 27
Unsaturated Fatty Acids 30
Monounsaturated Fatty Acids 32
Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids 32
Super/Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids 33
Unsaturated Fatty Acids and Oxygen 34
The Ends of the Carbon Chains 35
Naming Fatty Acids 36
Shorthand or Coded System of Fatty Acids 36
Fatty Acid Names 37
Omega Classification 39
Chapter 3 Beyond Fatty Acids … 40
…to Oils 41
Comparing Two Oils: Olive and Cocoa Butter 43
Chapter 4 Whole Oils-Qualities, Values, Refining 45
Saponification Value 45
Unsaponifiable Portion 46
Iodine Value of Oils 47
Peroxide Value and Acid Value 47
Fractionation 48
Refining Oils 49
Chapter 5 Other Forms of Lipids 51
Phospholipids-Lecithin 51
Waxes 53
Trans Fats & Oils 53
Petrochemicals-Mineral Oil 56
Sperm Whale Oil 57
Chapter 6 Consuming Fatty Acids-Oils and Health 59
The Essential Nutrients 60
Essential Fatty Acids and Health 62
Important but Not "Essential" 64
Medium-Chain Fatty Acids 65
Chapter 7 Topically-Oils and the Skin 67
The Skin Is an Organ 68
Fatty Acids, Sebum, and the Skin 70
Allergens, or Everyone Is Allergic to Something 71
Oils and Problems of Skin Health 72
Oils and Skin Aging 74
Oils, Sun, and Tanning 75
Oils and Skin Care 76
Chapter 8 Common and Important Fatty Acids for the Skin 77
Essential and Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids 77
Monounsaturated Fatty Acids 79
Saturated Fatty Acids 81
Very-Long-Chain Fatty Acids 83
Unique and Uncommon Fatty Acids 85
Chapter 9 Phyto-Chemicals 88
The Necessity of Oxygen and Antioxidants Phenolic Compounds 90
Flavonoids 91
Non-Flavonoid Phenolic Acids 93
Hydroxycinnamates 94
Lignans 96
Terpenes and Terpenoids 96
Vitamins 98
Oils, Butters, and Waxes: A List 104
Abyssinian to Yangu 106
Working with Natural Oils 193
Care and Handling of Oils 193
Using Oils on the Skin 195
Facial Care with Natural Oils 196
Cleansing with Oils 196
Facial Oils or Serums 201
Oils for Massage 211
Simple Body Scrubs 213
Whipped Salves & Body Butters 215
Oils and Herbs 218
Infusing Herbs in Oil 218
Salve-Making 226
Appendices 235
Oils by Use 236
Oils by Properties 240
Oils by Source 248
Botanical Families of Oil-Bearing Plants 252
Saponification Values for 90 Oils, Fats, and Waxes 259
Fatty Acid Families of Oils 262
Listing of Common Fatty Acids by Saturation and Omega Family 264
Fatty Acid Tables and Composition for the Oils 268
Measurements & Equivalents 296
Essential Oil Dilutions by Percentage 297
Glossary of Terms 298
Bibliography 313
Sources 318