Practical Knots and Ropework


In this thoroughly modern guide, author Percy W. Blandford focuses on styles in use today, many tailored to new synthetic ropemaking materials. He untangles the secrets behind a fascinating array of knots, including:
Basic knots, from common bends to bowlines
Joining knots, including the "weaver's," "surgeon's," and "thief" knots

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Practical Knots and Ropework

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In this thoroughly modern guide, author Percy W. Blandford focuses on styles in use today, many tailored to new synthetic ropemaking materials. He untangles the secrets behind a fascinating array of knots, including:
Basic knots, from common bends to bowlines
Joining knots, including the "weaver's," "surgeon's," and "thief" knots
Running and multiple loops
Fisherman's and climber's knots
... plus many other varieties, as well as the best way to secure loops, rings, and hitches. A detailed look at splicing ranges from fundamentals to methods for use with braided rope and wire. More than 290 diagrams appear throughout the text, illustrating the step-by-step formation of every knot.

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780486452784
  • Publisher: Dover Publications
  • Publication date: 1/15/2007
  • Series: Dover Craft Bks.
  • Pages: 416
  • Product dimensions: 6.32 (w) x 8.46 (h) x 0.79 (d)

Read an Excerpt

Practical Knots and Ropework

By Percy W. Blandford

Dover Publications, Inc.

Copyright © 1980 Percy W Blandford
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-486-14865-6



The first ropes were probably natural creepers, fronds and climbing plants found in the jungle, but ropes made of twisted fibers were believed to have been made in about the year 3000 BC by the Ancient Egyptians. They used papyrus leaves and fibers from hemp, flax, alfalfa grass and date palms. In the thousands of years since then, all kinds of fiber and other natural products have been used, even human hairs.

In more recent years the natural materials have been superseded by synthetic materials and nearly all cordage in the future, from fine string to the largest ropes, will be made of man-made filaments instead of the natural fibers which have been the mainstay of the ropemaker's art for nearly five thousand years.


Some of the natural fibers that were used up to the coming of man-made materials may still be found and used, so anyone interested in knotting should be aware of them. These include hemp, which makes a strong rather rough rope, and flax, which was sometimes mixed with it, but not used alone.

Italian Hemp. Italian hemp was considered the strongest, being smoother and easier to handle. Until the coming of synthetics, this was the first choice for heavily-loaded and frequently handled ropes.

Manila. Manila looks like Italian hemp and is of about the same strength and smoothness, but it is made from the fiber from plantain leaves.

Cotton. Cotton was used where supplies were plentiful to make a smooth easy-running rope with a white appearance when new, although it soon darkened with dirt.

Sisal. Sisal became more generally used towards the end of the use of natural fiber in ropemaking as it was cheaper. This came from the fiber of aloe leaves. It is almost as strong as hemp, with a light brown color and a rather rough surface. It may still be used for string as well as occasional ropes.

Coir. Coir rope was made from the fibers of coconuts and was sometimes described as grass rope. Coir ropes are only about one-quarter the strength of the same size hemp rope, but coir will float, where all other natural fiber ropes soon sink. It is also more elastic, so coir ropes of considerable size were used afloat for mooring lines and towing.

Synthetic fiber ropes were developed during World War II and their development continues with new materials and new ways of forming them into ropes being discovered. All these ropes have a chemical base and some have extremely ponderous chemical names, so it is more likely that rope making materials will be described by trade names. This is satisfactory, except that it may not be immediately obvious that two very different trade names indicate the same materials by different rope makers. The technical literature of the makers will usually give the chemical name.

One of the best known names is nylon, which is a polyamide polymer. Of the synthetic ropes, this is the material with the greatest stretch. It is a very elastic, so it cannot be used where something has to be pulled tight. Of the synthetics, it is the only one that will absorb water, although this is only to a small extent and much less than any of the natural fibers.

The synthetic ropes that have taken over from hemp and manila, with strength at least twice as great are polyethylene terephtalate. Some of the trade names are Dacron and Terylene.

A lighter rope that will float is made from polypropylene. This is stronger than any natural fiber rope, but its ability to float makes it the modern alternative to coir.


All of the synthetic rope materials have much better resistance to abrasion than natural fibers. Their strength and resistance to water absorption make them much better for use afloat, as they can be stored wet without risk of rot. Natural fiber ropes were treated with proofing solutions or tarred, but many ropes were weakened by rot before they wore out. Natural ropes are weaker when wet. Synthetic ropes do not have their strength affected by moisture.

Natural fibers are short. This means that a rope of any size is made up of a large number of short pieces and their ends project to give the hairy feel that became associated with rope. Synthetic ropes are made from continuous filaments, which may go the whole length of a rope, meaning that it can be made absolutely smooth. Much synthetic rope is smooth, except for the very occasional broken filament. Some users prefer rope with the hairy traditional surface and synthetic ropes can be made to have this sort of exterior.

Traditionally rope was made three stranded. In a section containing three round strands, each strand touches the other two and the section cannot go out of shape (Fig. 1-1A). With a greater number of round strands this condition does not apply again until seven strands are used (Fig. 1-1B). The seven-strand formation is used for wire ropes, but it is unlikely to be met in fiber ropes, although some French rope is made this way. There have been four-strand ropes, but to keep their shape there is a smaller straight central strand (Fig. 1-1C).

Nearly all traditional three-strand rope is laid up right-handed and may be called hawser-laid. If you look along the rope, the strands twist away from you towards the right (Fig. 1-1D). Rope may be laid up left-handed for special purposes. Slings for lifting a load may have opposite ropes twisted in opposite ways, as there is then less risk of them twisting around each other at the crane hook.

Four-stranded rope may be described as shroud-laid and is normally laid up right-handed, but this formation is now rare.

With the need for bigger diameter ropes, there is a limit to what can conveniently be made three-stranded. Cable-laid ropes were made with three ropes laid up right-handed and twisted together left-handed (Fig. 1-1E). This kept the value of the retention of the cross-sectional shape due to the three formation—in effect a nine-strand rope.

In a rope the fibers or filaments are twisted together to form yarns (Fig. 1-1F). The yarns are twisted together to form strands (Fig. 1-1G), then the strands are twisted together to make the rope. At each stage the twist is to tighten the previous stage, and so the rope retains its construction.

For many thousands of years ropes were made by hand. There were simple contrivances to guide the rope and to apply the twist, but the work was done by a man walking backwards and adding fibers to build up the rope. Although some of the completed rope might be rolled, the method of construction really dictated a very long straight ropewalk, and the presence of these may be located by the lanes and districts that have retained the name. Later rope was made mechanically and even more modern machinery producing three-strand rope uses similar techniques to the hand ropemaker.

Mechanical methods have brought other rope formations. In particular there are braided or plaited ropes, in which the outer casing has yarns woven across each other diagonally, so there is a pattern of yarns spirally around in both directions. This makes a smooth flexible rope. The heart may be made up of many yarns laid lengthwise, although some braided rope is made around a three-stranded rope heart. Another type has one braided casing around another. There may be single yarns interlaced, but it is more usual for groups of yarns to be taken around together (Fig. 1-1H).

Traditionally rope has been described by its circumference. This has meant the need for anyone only occasionally using rope to visualize this in relation to its thickness. The diameter is slightly less than one-third of the circumference, so a 1-1½ inch circumference rope is not quite ½ inch thick.

With a move towards metrication, a tendency has also come to describe a rope size by its diameter. Fortunately there is a convenient relationship between circumference in fractions of an inch and diameter in millimeters. If a circumference is expressed in one-eighths of an inch, that is the same number as the diameter in millimeters. For instance, a 2 inch circumference is 16 x 1/8-inch, so the diameter is actually 16 millimeters. Or 1 1/8-inch circumference (9 x 1/8 is millimeters. The traditional measurement of length was the fathom (6 feet), but it is now more common to measure in feet or meters.

The strength of the rope is greatest when it is pulled straight. If it is taken around a sheave or pulley, some strength is lost. The larger the diameter of the pulley, the less will be the loss of strength. There is obviously a practical limit to the size a pulley can be, particularly if it is part of the rigging of a sailing boat, but taking the rope around a small curve should be avoided if a larger curve can be substituted.

There is similar reasoning in the formation of a knot. If the rope is tightly kinked to make a particular knot, it will be weakened more than if a knot with easier curves is used. However, knotting is a compromise. If the knot is not to slip, there have to be some tight turns, but sometimes there can be a knot with many moderate turns as a stronger alternative to one with fewer sharply bent turns. In any case, whatever is done, the knot will always be weaker than the body of the rope. If tested to destruction, the break often comes where the rope enters the knot.

Another knotting problem with modern synthetic ropes is the smoothness compared with the natural fiber ropes. The many thousands of knots developed over centuries have been intended for the hairy type of natural fiber ropes. Some knots that depended on that friction are less successful with smooth newer ropes. In some cases older knots have had to be discarded and replaced with new ones. In other cases older knots have been modified with extra turns to provide grip.

There have been some excellent knotting and ropework books produced, mainly from the days of square-rigged sail when there were miles of ropes on a ship and a great many situations needing special knots, splices and other treatments. Although these books can provide plenty of interest and are good sources of information for anyone with some knowledge of the subject, it would be unwise to take some of those knots and try to apply then today. They were all intended for natural fiber ropes, and many of these ropes on board ship were very coarse and rough, so they provided plenty of friction in a knot. If some of them were used on synthetic cordage, they would probably be unsafe. Modern knotting needs are not as extensive. The utility knotting requirements of the average person may be few, but many of the older knots and other rope treatments can be adapted to modern needs, either for practical purposes or as a form of decoration.


The End of a Rope

Because of its method of construction, a rope laid up in three strands may start to unlay into its separate strands, yarns and fibers if nothing is done to a cut end. The effect may not be as serious with braided rope, but that will also start to separate. This tendency is much greater with synthetic ropes than natural fiber ones. Some synthetic ropes will unlay for a considerable length if released after cutting, and it is almost impossible to lay them up again satisfactorily by hand, so a piece of cow's tail may have to be cut off and wasted.

All of the common synthetic materials used for ropes will melt if heated. They will burn eventually if heating with a flame is continued for too long, but the first effect of heat is to melt the filaments. This can be a disadvantage in some circumstances as friction may generate heat across a rope to soften and melt it to a dangerous state. The ability to melt and fuse the filaments together by applying heat can be used to seal the ends of synthetic ropes. It may also serve as a test if you are uncertain about whether a piece of rope is synthetic or made from natural fibers. A flame applied to the end will char natural fibers, but synthetic fibers will melt.

Few tools are needed for knotting and general ropework, but a sharp knife is important. For fine line, such as thread and cord, a pair of scissors can be used, but for the majority of ropes, a knife is the usual cutter. Almost any knife will do, but riggers, sailors and others who work with rope prefer a thin-bladed type of knife with a handle made from a piece of wood on each side of the blade extension. These types are very similar to the knives used by a butcher. A thin blade about 5 inches long with a good edge will deal with most ropework (Fig. 2-1A). It is also useful to have a spike for picking knots open, getting fancywork into shape and tucking splices. This may be a plain tapered marline spike (Fig. 2-1B), and a rigger often has his knife and spike in the same sheath, which hangs low in his belt (Fig. 2-2). The spike and the knife may have holes so lanyards can be attached as precautions when working aloft. With a light cord lanyard around the neck there is no risk of dropping the tools which could be lethal to anyone below.

Some other spikes are described later, but there is no need to buy a special spike for most knotting because any pointed tool can be used. It is convenient to have a handle on the spike and one sold as an awl or ice-pick may be used.

A ropeworker or sailmaker may call a finer pointed tool a pricker or a stabber. Any of these may be useful in knotting. Some clasp knives have a spike folded on the back. This is safe stowage and convenient for carrying in a pocket. At one time wood and bone were used for spikes as these were considered less hard on rope fibers, but it is common now to only find wood used for very large splicing spikes called fids.

Those concerned with ropework frequently may have an electrically heated knife for cutting and sealing synthetic ropes in one action. It may be a tool something like a soldering iron, but with a knife instead of a bit, or a static bench unit through which the rope is passed and the cut made by pulling a handle. If rope is being taken off a reel, this seals what is left as well as the piece being cut off, but most of these tools leave a rough end as the melted material hardens. There will have to be some other treatment before putting the rope into use, particularly if the rope has to pass through a hole or a pulley block.

It is possible to heat any knife and use it for cutting and sealing, but there is always the danger of overheating, which will draw the temper of the steel. If an old knife can be kept for the purpose, the risk of the steel being softened may not matter, but once the temper of a blade has been drawn, it will not keep its edge when used for ordinary purposes.

Most users of rope will find it more convenient to cut and seal in two stages. Most ropes can be cut by slicing with a knife. Very hard, tightly-laid ropes can be cut with a fine metalworking hacksaw if a knife will not work. Very thick ropes were cut with a hatchet, but for most ropes in normal use it is unlikely that the user will have to resort to this method.

If synthetic rope is to be cut, it is advisable to put on a stopping. This temporary whipping may be adhesive tape or a turn or two of thread or any light line on each side of the intended cut (Fig. 2-3A) to prevent unlaying. Sealing is often done with a match flame. This is convenient, but it is a dirty flame that will blacken the rope end. The flame from a cigarette lighter is cleaner and burns longer. For normal use, hold the end of the rope over the flame and turn it to evenly heat the extreme end (Fig. 2-3B). Quite a brief heating will usually be enough, but make sure there are no stray filaments that have curled away from the flame.

Remove the flame and moisten the first finger and thumb of the other hand, then quickly roll the end of the rope between finger and thumb (Fig. 2-3C). With a little practice, a rounded end with a slight taper can be produced. This method is used for laid or braided rope. Moistening your finger and thumb prevents burning yourself and stops the softened filaments from sticking to your skin. Be ready to lick your fingers a second time. If the end is not to your satisfaction, it can be heated and rolled again. Be careful not to heat the rope further along, or you may get fibers set rigidly fused together where you wanted the rope to remain flexible. You cannot undo the effect of heating and fusing.


Excerpted from Practical Knots and Ropework by Percy W. Blandford. Copyright © 1980 Percy W Blandford. Excerpted by permission of Dover Publications, Inc..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Table of Contents

Cordage     11
Natural Fibers
Synthetic Fibers
The End of a Rope     17
Common Whipping
French Whipping
West Country Whipping
Palm and Needle Whipping
Seizings and Stoppings
Round Seizing
Flat Seizing
Racking Seizing
Throat Seizing
Mousing a Hook
Basic Knots     39
Overhand Knot
Figure-Eight Knot
Common Bend
Reef Knot
Clove Hitch
Round Turn and Two Half Hitches
Packer's Knot
Single-Strand Knots     53
Blood Knot
Stevedore's Knot
Slip Knot
Oysterman's Stopper
Heaving Line Knot
Monkey's Fist
Joining Knots     59
Overhand Bend
Flemish Bend and Ring Knot
Fisherman's Knot
Barrel Knot
Blood Knot
Weaver's Knot
Left-Handed Weaver's Knot
Double Weaver's Knot
Second Double Weaver's Knot
Tucked Sheet Bend
Binder Turn
Harness Bend
Double Harness Bend
Machine Sheet Bend
Toggled Sheet Bends
Rope Yarn Knot
Tucked ends
Surgeon's Knot
Thief Knot
Heaving Line Bends
Carrick Bend
Bowline Bend
Twin Bowline Bend
Seized Bends
Hunter's Bend
Fixed End Loops     81
Water Bowline
Double Bowline
Bowline with a Bight
Bowline on a Bight
Portugese Bowline
Spanish Bowline
Bowline on Bowline
Multiple Bowlines
True Bowline
Fisherman's Loops
Angler's Loop
Overhand Loop Knots
Figure-Eight Loops
Bellringer's Loop
Running Loops     96
Tag Knot
Crabber's Knot
Double Overhand Noose
Figure-Eight Nooses
Handcuff Knot
Multiple Loops     105
Double Bow String Knots
Double Angler's Loop
Forked Loops
Coiled Loops
Sister Loops
Towing Hitches
Strap Double Loop
Climber's Rescue Knot
Without the Ends     115
Secured Sheepshank
Clove-Hitched Sheepshank
Knotted Sheepshanks
Sheepshanks from Hitches
Single-Ended Shortenings
Rope Tackle
Lineman's Loop
Man-Harness Knot
Farmer's Loop
Double Middleman's Knot
Double Figure-Eight Loop
Forked Loops
Jury Masthead Knot
Bottle Knot
Hitches to Spars     139
Timber Hitch
Cow Hitch
Snug Hitches
Anchor Bends
Fisherman's Hitches
Magnus Hitch
Roband Hitch
Rolling Hitch
Single-Turn Hitches
Backhanded Hitch
Highwayman's Hitch
Crossing Knots
Posts with Holes
Oklahoma Hitch
Scaffold Hitch
Lifting Hitch
Special Hitches to Spars and Posts     163
Circus Knots
Tree Surgeon's Knot
Swing Hitch
Steeplejack's Knot
Slack Line Hitch
Tail Blocks
Strops-Mooring Hitch
Guy Line Hitches
Slippery Hitches
Hitches to Rings and Hooks     179
Half Hitches
Loom Hitches
Anchor Hitches
Sheepshank Hitch
Slip Bowline
Toggled Loop
Sampan Hitch
Hook Hitches
Blackwall Hitch
Stunner Hitch
Midshipman's Hitch
Marline Spike Hitch
Racking Hitch
Endless Slings
Constricting Knots     193
Reef Knot Variations
Hitched Loops
Jam Knots
Constrictor Knot
Miller's Knots
Net Line Hitch
Straw Binder Knot
Windlass Constrictor
Deadman's Grip
Fisherman's Knots     207
Knots to Loops
Loop Knots
Joining Knots
Barrel Knot
Blood Knot
Dropper Knots
Swivel Hitches
Knots to Hooks
Relative Strengths of Fisherman's Knots
Climber's Knots     229
Waist Band
End Loops
Middleman Loops
Anchor Knot
Emergency Knots
Alpine Basket
Release Hitches
Belaying and Making Fast     240
Basic Splicing     251
Eye Splice
Eye Splice with Thimble
Back Splice
Short Splice
Long Splice
Other Eye Splices     265
German Eye Splice
Four-Strand Splice
Sailmaker's Eye Splice
Eye Splice with Collar
Chain Splice
Grommet Splice
Double-Ended Eye
Flemish Eye-Eye Splice Variations
Other Splices in Stranded Rope     279
Knotted Short Splice
Short Splice
Shroud Knots
Pudding Splice
Braided Rope Splices     292
Flemish Eye
Lock Tuck Splice
Three-Strand Core Splice
Knight's Eye Splice
Samson Eye Splice
Back Splice
Single Braid End-to-End Splice
Double Braid End-to-End Splice
Joining Thick to Thin Ropes
Wire Splices     311
Wire Eye Splice
Short Splice, Fiber to Wire Rope
Long Splice, Fiber to Wire Rope
Long Splice, Braided Fiber Rope to Wire Rope
Lashings     325
Square Lashing
Diagonal Lashing
Sheer Lashing
Sheer Lashing for Lengthening
Tripod Lashing
Crossed Lashing
Log Lashing
Stake Lashings
Guy Line Runners
Lashing Loads
Bosun's Chair Knot
Purchases     345
Netmaking     356
Net Sizes and Knots
Basic Netting
Joining Netting Line
Chain Meshes
Straight-Edged Nets
Tapering a Net
Round Nets
Square Meshes
Repairing Nets
Decorative Ropework     376
Turk's Head
Matthew Walker
Flat Endless Sinnet
Flat Sinnets
Portugese Sinnet
Lariat Plait
Manrope Knot
Glossary     392
Additional Reading     401
Index     403
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