Provencal Light

Croutons with Garlic and Tomato
(Pain catalan or pain gradaillé)

Serves 4

The word gradaillé comes from the Languedocien word gradalha, to rub with garlic, which in turn comes from the Languedocien word for garlic clove, gra d'alh. In Provence a thick piece of stale bread is rubbed generously with garlic, then drizzled with vinegar and quite a bit of olive oil. Instead of olive oil I've used the juice of a tomato, which makes this more like the Spanish or Catalonian version (which in its traditional form would also contain olive oil). In fact the tomato version of this dish is eaten all over the Mediterranean, so I don't know why the French call it "Catalonian bread." All you need is good, crusty bread, juicy tomatoes, and garlic.

8 thick slices of country bread, lightly toasted or slightly stale
1 to 2 garlic cloves, as needed, cut in half lengthwise
2 ripe tomatoes, cut in half

Rub the bread with the cut garlic, then with the cut half of a tomato, squeezing the tomato a bit so that its juice saturates the bread.

Advance Preparation: Eat these as soon as you prepare them.

Per Portion

Calories 170
Fat 2 G
Sodium 351 MG
Protein 6 G
Carbohydrate 33 G
Cholesterol 0

Chicken in Onion, Wine, and Caper Sauce(Poulet en capilotade)

Serves 4 to 6

Capilotade, a lusty Provençal sauce containing lots of capers and onions, is wonderful with chicken. In this easy dish the sauce is made with white wine and chicken stock as opposed to the red wine and fish stock in the salt cod version on page 202. The dish makes a nicefamily dinner served with rice, wheatberries, pasta, or potatoes.

13-pound (1.35 kg) chicken, cut into pieces and skin removed
2quarts (2 l) water or enough to cover the chicken a bouquet garni made with a bay leaf, a few fresh thyme sprigs, and a few parsley sprigs
4black peppercorns
3medium-size onions, one quartered, the rest chopped
2medium-size carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
6garlic cloves, 4 peeled, 2 minced or put through a press
salt to taste
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon unbleached white flour
1/4 cup (60 ml) drained capers, rinsed
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1/2teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary or 1/4 teaspoon crushed dried
freshly ground pepper to taste
3 tablespoons chopped parsley

Combine the chicken, water, bouquet garni, peppercorns, quartered onion, carrots, whole garlic cloves, and salt in a large soup pot or Dutch oven. Bring to a simmer and skim off any foam that rises. Reduce the heat, cover partially, and simmer until the chicken is cooked through—25 minutes for the white meat and 35 to 45 minutes for the dark meat. Remove the chicken and place in a bowl or serving dish. Strain the stock and reserve 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) for the sauce and the rest for another use.

Stir together the tomato paste, wine, and chicken stock in a bowl. Set aside. Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-low heat and add the chopped onions. Cook, stirring, until they soften, about 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and continue to cook, stirring, until the garlic begins to color, about 30 to 60 seconds. Stir in the vinegar and flour and stir together for about 1 minute, until the mixture is just beginning to brown.

Add the wine mixture to the onions along with the capers, thyme, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Cook, uncovered, for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until the sauce thickens slightly.

Stir the chicken back into the mixture, heat through, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

Advance Preparation: This can be made hours ahead of serving and can also be held overnight in the refrigerator. Reheat in a 350 F (180 C) oven for 10 to 15 minutes or stir over medium-low heat in a flameproof casserole to reheat.

Per Portion

Calories 240
Protein 25 G
Fat 8 G
Carbohydrate 13 G
Sodium 266 MG
Cholesterol 76 MG