Pure Ketchup: A History of America's National Condiment

Overview

For topping French fries or cottage cheese, K rations or school lunches, ketchup has long been an American favorite. In Pure Ketchup, Andrew F. Smith chronicles American milestones in ketchup history, including colonial adaptations of popular British mushroom, anchovy, and walnut ketchups, the rise of tomato-based ketchup, the proliferation of commercial bottling after the Civil War, debates about preservatives, the resurgence of homemade and designer varieties, and a recent challenge from salsa. In addition to ...

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Overview

For topping French fries or cottage cheese, K rations or school lunches, ketchup has long been an American favorite. In Pure Ketchup, Andrew F. Smith chronicles American milestones in ketchup history, including colonial adaptations of popular British mushroom, anchovy, and walnut ketchups, the rise of tomato-based ketchup, the proliferation of commercial bottling after the Civil War, debates about preservatives, the resurgence of homemade and designer varieties, and a recent challenge from salsa. In addition to the history of ketchup, the book also includes historical recipes.

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Editorial Reviews

From the Publisher

"Most Americans think that ketchup is an American invention. Most Americans think it was always made of tomatoes. But anyone who wants the real story on ketchup will have to read Pure Ketchup."--Karen Hess, coauthor of The Taste of America

"The book starts out as a sweeping history--ketchup in the ancient Mediterranean, ketchup evolving with the help of the British Empire--but finds its stride in an amazing variety of fun historical nuggets Smith uncovered about ketchup's evolution."--Associated Press

"If you want to catch up on everything there is to know about America's favorite sauce, then Andy Smith's [book] will be what you are looking for. . . . Fascinating."--Food History News

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781611170177
  • Publisher: University of South Carolina Press
  • Publication date: 4/1/2011
  • Pages: 240
  • Product dimensions: 6.00 (w) x 9.00 (h) x 0.60 (d)

Meet the Author


Andrew F. Smith teaches culinary history at the New School University in Manhattan and is the author of nineteen books, including Popped Culture: A Social History of Popcorn in America, The Tomato in America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery, and Eating History: Thirty Turning Points in the Making of American Cuisine.
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Table of Contents

Preface xi
Part I History
Chapter 1 Introducing Ketchup and Its Polyglot Parentage 3
Origins 4
Catchup, Catsup, or Ketchup? 6
The British 6
Chapter 2 The Rise and Demise of Homemade Ketchup 12
Mushroom, Fish and Seafood, and Walnut Ketchups 14
Pickles, Sauces, and Ketchups 16
Ketchup in Eighteenth-Century America 17
The Rise of Tomato Ketchup 18
Ketchup in Nineteenth-Century Britain and America 19
Reasons for Ketchup's Initial Success 23
Ketchup Commonalities 25
Homemade Ketchup's High-water Mark 26
The Fall of Homemade Ketchup 27
Chapter 3 The Commercialization of Ketchup 33
Early Tomato Ketchup Manufacturing 34
The Rapid Expansion of Commercial Ketchup 36
Manufacturing Ketchup at the Turn of the Century 45
Commercial Nontomato Ketchups 47
America's National Condiment 50
Chapter 4 The Quest for Pure Ketchup 59
Ketchup's Afflictions 60
Passage of the National Pure Food and Drugs Act 67
Ketchup Standards and Enforcement Efforts 69
Chapter 5 The Benzoate War 77
Wiley Opposes Benzoates 78
Ketchup Experiments 80
The Antibenzoite Lobby 83
Probenzoite Forces Strike 90
Heinz Strikes Back 95
The Referee Board Decides 97
Antibenzoite Forces Strike Back 98
The Denver Convention 105
The Fight against Benzoates in Indiana 108
Victors and Vanquished 109
Chapter 6 Ketchup Revolutions 119
Consolidation in the Ketchup Industry 121
The Agricultural Revolution 122
Ketchup Races 123
Ketchup Manufacturing in the Twentieth Century 126
The Content Revolution 129
Bottling and Packaging Revolutions 131
Chapter 7 Ketchup Today and Tomorrow 135
What Is a Good Ketchup? 136
Why Is Ketchup So Popular? 138
Ketchup as a Vegetable 139
The Return of Homemade Ketchup 140
Designer Ketchups 141
The Salsa Challenge 142
A Business of Global Significance 143
Part II Historical Ketchup Recipes
A Note on the Recipes 149
1. Anchovy Ketchup 151
2. Apple Ketchup 152
3. Apricot Ketchup 152
4. Barberry Ketchup 153
5. Blackberry Ketchup 153
6. Camp Ketchup 153
7. Catsup Cream Dressing 154
8. Cherry Ketchup 154
9. Cockle Ketchup 155
10. Cold Ketchup 155
11. Compound or Cook's Ketchup 156
12. Cranberry Ketchup 156
13. Creole Ketchup 156
14. Cucumber Ketchup 157
15. Currant Ketchup 158
16. Damson Ketchup 159
17. Elderberry Ketchup 159
18. English Ketchup 160
19. Gooseberry Ketchup 161
20. Grape Ketchup 162
21. Herring Ketchup 163
22. Ketchup for Mutton 163
23. Ketchup to Keep Seven Years 163
24. Ketchup to Keep Twenty Years 164
25. Kidney Bean Ketchup 164
26. Lemon Ketchup 165
27. Liver Ketchup 165
28. Lobster Ketchup 167
29. Mum (or Old Beer) Ketchup 168
30. Mushroom Ketchup 168
31. Mussel Ketchup 175
32. Oyster Ketchup 175
33. Peach Ketchup 177
34. Pepper Ketchup 178
35. Pimento Ketchup 179
36. Plum Ketchup 179
37. Pudding Ketchup 180
38. Raspberry Ketchup 180
39. Rum Ketchup 181
40. Sea Ketchup 181
41. Southern Ketchup 182
42. Squash Ketchup 182
43. Sugar Ketchup 182
44. Tomato Ketchup 183
45. Tomato Ketchup, Green 190
46. Tomato Soy 191
47. Walnut Ketchup 192
48. White Ketchup 195
49. Whortleberry Ketchup 195
50. Wine Ketchup 196
Part III List of Ketchups
Commercial Tomato Ketchups 199
Historical Tomato Ketchups 199
Recent Tomato Ketchups 219
Nontomato Ketchups 221
Historical Nontomato Ketchups 221
Recent Nontomato Ketchups 222
Non-American Ketchups 222
Select Bibliography and Resources 225
General Works 225
Works on Canning and Preserving 226
Works on Ketchup 228
Reprinted British and American Cookery Books and Manuscripts 230
Index 233
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Sort by: Showing all of 2 Customer Reviews
  • Posted January 11, 2014

    more from this reviewer

    Did you know that there had never been a formal, academic histor

    Did you know that there had never been a formal, academic history about ketchup written until Andrew Smith published this book in 1996?

    I lost track of all the footnotes, this book was so well-researched!

    Sure, it’s a book about ketchup. Don’t underestimate the power of excellent writing and surprising anecdotes.

    I learned that ketchup wasn’t invented in America. I learned that ketchup didn’t used to be made with tomatoes.

    The author weaves together a fast-paced, fascinating story about the most popular condiment in the United States.

    If you enjoy history and a quick read, then Pure Ketchup is an excellent choice!

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
  • Anonymous

    Posted April 19, 2004

    Ketchup Wonderful!

    I totally learned so much about ketchup. And that can be spelled catsup, catchup, katchup, ketchup. So many ways to spell it. The best condiment in the world is catsup. And I never thought I would learn soooo much about the 'America's National Condiment' and I read it it one day, I also bought a copy for my best friend Jesuka. Jesuka loved it and now we started a ketchup group in our school. Those of us who 'love' the condiment, are in the club and meet thursdays to discuss new recipes, facts, and people who really love ketchup. Thanks to the author, now we have sort of a 'manual' for our club that has 6 members. We even collect resteraunt packets of katchup! Ciao!

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
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