Recipes from America's Small Farms: Fresh Ideas for the Season's Bounty

Overview

Recipes from America’s Small Farms gathers the most exciting, original, and authentic recipes—using the freshest ingredients—from those who know best how to set a table anytime of the year. Favorite recipes from farmers across the country and members of Community Supported Agriculture—a national organization that facilitates direct farmer-to-consumer sales of produce—will inspire home cooks everywhere. Also included are recipes from high-profile chefs such as Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill), Peter Hoffman (Savoy), ...
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Recipes from America's Small Farms: Fresh Ideas for the Season's Bounty

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Overview

Recipes from America’s Small Farms gathers the most exciting, original, and authentic recipes—using the freshest ingredients—from those who know best how to set a table anytime of the year. Favorite recipes from farmers across the country and members of Community Supported Agriculture—a national organization that facilitates direct farmer-to-consumer sales of produce—will inspire home cooks everywhere. Also included are recipes from high-profile chefs such as Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill), Peter Hoffman (Savoy), Roxanne Klein (Roxanne’s), and Kevin von Klause (White Dog Café).

Readers will find it easy to locate recipes, organized by food family, that call for the vegetables and fruits that are in season, readily available, and simple to use. Recipes like Creamy Turnip Soup; Heirloom Tomatoes with Fresh Herbs, Toasted Pine Nuts, and Tapenade Toast Points; Greek Zucchini Cakes; and Hiroko’s Fusion Choy with Tahini-Soy Dip give common produce exotic appeal.

The book includes a chapter on meat, poultry, eggs, and seafood, and there are vegan recipes throughout. Each chapter provides details about the history, characteristics, and nutritional qualities of specific fruits and vegetables. Cooking techniques, useful sidebars, and a glossary make this book an indispensable resource.

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Editorial Reviews

From the Publisher
"From Bachelor’s Buttons to Odorless Brassica cooking, Fusion Choy, Chremslach and why they all say E.I.E.I.O down at the Grindstone Farm in Pulaski, N.Y., this fun little book is chock full of colorful personalities, anecdotes and very useful information! As a founding member of the Chef’s Collaborative, I am thrilled to see the current growth and development of Community Supported Agriculture. What better accompaniments to the rich harvest of fresh, local and seasonal produce than these simple, homey and delicious recipes." -Michael Romano, Executive Chef/Partner at The Union Square Café, and co-author of The Union Square Café Cookbook and Second Helpings from Union Square Café

"The authors have done an excellent job of providing the reader with ways to experience unusual vegetables. They provide a wonderful recipe for busy people to connect with seasonal eating. It's an opportunity to bring your local farmer into your kitchen." -Joel Patraker, co-author of The Greenmarket Cookbook

"Start with the fact that this is not just, as its title suggests, a book of recipes from America's small farms, but a collection of facts, farmers, recipes, and resources that begins with 'Basic Techniques' and 'Basic Recipes,' and ends with thierty-nine pages designed to help any reader find sources of local foods. In between are the specific instructions--classified surprisingly by plant parts--including enough variations to eliminate produce overwhelm. The page-sized sidebars introduce farmers, along with 'heirlooms,' 'that cabbage smell,' 'some stuffings,' and 'corporate tomatoes'--a good read while the garlic roasts." -Joan Dye Gussow, author of This Organic Life: Confessions of a Suburban Homesteader

“This book is as close as you can get to the experts at the farmer’s market without being there. These delicious recipes for year-round seasonal cooking will not disappoint.” -Nell Newman, author of The Newman’s Own Organics Guide to a Good Life

“At Moosewood Restaurant, we've always appreciated the value of high quality, locally grown produce. The recipes here are delicious examples of how best to feature the fresh, wholesome flavors of produce grown as close to one's own backyard as possible.” -David Hirsch, author of The Moosewood Restaurant Kitchen Garden

“Hurrah! What fun to have great new recipes from those closest to the earth. These recipes celebrate a renaissance in American cuisine, as more and more of us want fresh, wholesome food that wakes up the palette.” -Frances Moore Lappé, Co-author of Hope’s Edge: The Next Diet for a Small Planet

Library Journal
Hayes and Stein both live in Manhattan, but as members of a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) project, they enjoy fresh produce delivered weekly from a small farm in upstate New York. A national movement whose specifics vary from place to place, CSA works to connect small farmers and communities, so the members have the benefit of great ingredients, and the farmers have a reliable sales outlet. The authors begin with a general introduction to preparing and cooking vegetables, then present dozens of recipes from farmers and other CSA members, as well as from chefs who support CSA. The recipes are organized into such categories as "Luscious Leaves" and "The Cabbage Clan." Although these are vegetable recipes, not vegetarian per se, the book makes a nice complement to Deborah Madison's Local Flavors, which celebrates farmers' markets across the country. For most collections. Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information.
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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780812967753
  • Publisher: Random House Publishing Group
  • Publication date: 7/29/2003
  • Edition description: 1ST
  • Pages: 304
  • Sales rank: 1,369,248
  • Product dimensions: 7.80 (w) x 8.00 (h) x 0.80 (d)

Meet the Author

Joanne Lamb Hayes has developed, tested, and written recipes for thirty-seven years. She is the author of Grandma’s Wartime Kitchen, the co-author of six other cookbooks, and the former food editor of Country Living magazine. She is a member of the Carnegie Hill/Yorkville CSA in New York City.

Lori Stein is the president of Layla Productions, a book-production company that has completed more than two hundred books, including Good Housekeeping’s Recipe Collection and The American Garden Guides. She is a member of the Carnegie Hill/Yorkville CSA and works with CSA organizations in New York City.

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Read an Excerpt

BASIC GRATIN

The only thing that makes a casserole a gratin is the crisp, well-browned, broiled topping. You can use buttered bread crumbs, grated cheese, a mixture of the two, or nothing at all over layers of cooked vegetables.

1 pound potatoes, turnips, rutabagas, sweet potatoes, or Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and thinly sliced
1 pound leafy greens, cabbage, zucchini, summer squash, fennel, Belgian endive, or cauliflower, rinsed and drained, if necessary, and thinly sliced, or an additional pound of roots and tubers above
4 tablespoons olive oil or unsalted butter
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped (optional)
2 cups milk, stock, or cooled vegetable cooking liquid
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
1 1/4 cups grated Cheddar, Swiss, Muenster, Monterey Jack, or other cheese
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs or panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

The only thing that makes a casserole a gratin is the crisp, well-browned, broiled topping. You can use buttered bread crumbs, grated cheese, a mixture of the two, or nothing at all over layers of cooked vegetables.

Cook the root vegetables in boiling salted water for 5 to 7 minutes, until the surface starts to look cooked. Drain; save the cooking liquid and let cool to use for the sauce, if desired. Blanch the pound of more tender vegetables; drain thoroughly.

Preheat the oven to 375F. Lightly grease a 2-quart gratin or shallow baking dish.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Saute the onion and garlic, if using, until they start to brown, about 4 minutes.

Whisk the milk into the flour in a small bowl. Whisk the milk mixture into the onion mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is bubbly and thickened. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Layer half of the root vegetables, 1/3 cup sauce, 1/4 cup cheese, half of the tender vegetables, 1/3 cup sauce, and 1/4 cup cheese. Repeat, ending with
1 cup sauce and 1/2 cup cheese. Combine the bread crumbs and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. If using butter, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons before combining. Sprinkle crumbs over the cheese.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the root vegetables are tender and the top is well browned.

CHAPTER ONE: BASIC TECHNIQUES

As they are picking up their weekly shares, CSA members often ask us how to clean, store, and use the vegetables. The volunteers working at the site always share their knowledge of the vegetables in question, but tips are immediately added by other members who have come to pick up their produce. We try to make a note of some of this advice and include it in our weekly newsletters. Because members come from all over the world as well as from all over the United States, it is exciting to hear the many different ways a particular vegetable can be handled. This chapter incorporates much of the basics we have learned, while tips for handling specific vegetables will be found in the recipe chapters that follow. We love fresh vegetables because they contribute color, flavor, texture, and nutrition to our diet. All of those factors are affected by the way we handle, store, and cook our produce. These guidelines will help you decide what to do next when you arrive home with a variety of fresh organic vegetables and will provide options when you have no plans for dinner.

One of the major advantages of membership in a CSA is that you have a ready, summer-long supply of local vegetables that have been picked at their prime and shipped a very short distance, and not been warehoused before you get them. This in itself ensures better flavor and less deterioration than in produce that has been picked underripe, shipped across the country, and stored in a wholesale market before reaching your supermarket. To keep your produce in good condition once you get it home, you need to do three things: reduce its respiration, prevent dehydration, and reduce bacterial and mold activity. Even after harvest, vegetables continue to take in oxygen and release carbon dioxide, and this means that they continue their cycle of maturation, which eventually leads to deterioration. Chilling them slows their metabolic activity and prolongs freshness. Covering them tightly helps to reduce the available oxygen and prevent dehydration but may provide the perfect environment for mold growth and doesn’t allow the carbon dioxide to escape.

Vegetables will keep longer if they aren’t rinsed until you are ready to use them, but they can still be trimmed and placed in paper or plastic bags so that they will take up less room in the refrigerator. As a general rule, refrigerator storage in a ÒbreathableÓ bag (muslin, brown paper, one of the special plastic bags that have tiny holes, or a regular bag with a few holes snipped into it) and periodic removal of any spots or deteriorating pieces will prolong vegetable quality. However, each recipe chapter includes specifics for the vegetables included there. Onions, tomatoes, and potatoes are notable exceptions to this storage rule and should be stored at room temperature, each for a different reason.

Some CSA members find it more convenient to rinse all their produce the day they get it, so that it is ready to use in a hurry for the rest of the week. If you do choose to do this, be sure to drain the vegetables well and plan to use the leafy ones within a few days. Leafy vegetables will keep longer if dried in a salad spinner or wrapped in a kitchen towel after rinsing; root vegetables and fruit vegetables such as tomatoes, squash, and peppers can be allowed to air dry before storing.

We are often asked if it is really necessary to rinse our produce, since it is all organic. Although such produce has no pesticide or chemical fertilizer residue on it, we still recommend rinsing it. Any sand or soil clinging to leaves and roots needs to be removed, and the "tiny footprints" of birds, small animals, and insects who may have visited the fields should be rinsed away. You might have noticed that we never say "wash" the vegetables. We did once and were asked, "With soap?" No, no, no; just a rinse in fresh, cool water will be fine.

Most of the vegetables in our shares don’t need to be cooked at all. The exceptions are shelled and dried beans, beets, brussels sprouts, eggplant, parsnips, potatoes, salsify, and winter squash. Even kohlrabi, turnips, and rutabagas can be eaten raw if they are shredded or thinly sliced. Slice, dice, or shred vegetables as near as possible to the time you will eat them; they begin to deteriorate, discolor due to oxidation, dry out on the surface, and lose nutrients as soon as they are cut. If you are preparing crudites for a crowd and must cut and arrange raw vegetables in advance, select those that do not oxidize. Broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, kohlrabi, peppers, radishes, rutabagas, green beans, tomatoes, and turnips make great cruditŽs. Prepare and arrange them on the serving platter, cover them with moistened cheesecloth and plastic wrap, then refrigerate them until just before serving. If you are including tomatoes, the flavor will be better if you slice them, cover them tightly, and set them aside at room temperature; add them to the platter just before serving. If you are cutting or shredding something that oxidizes, toss the pieces immediately with an acid such as lemon, orange, or tomato juice, shredded onion, vinegar, salad dressing, yogurt, sour cream, or a vitamin C tablet dissolved in water, to prevent darkening.

Raw vegetables make wonderful natural containers for dips, sauces, spreads, salad dressings, soups, stews, or salads. Depending upon the size container you need, remove the top and clean or hollow out the center of a summer or winter squash, pumpkin, pepper, tomato, or cabbage. Once it has served as a container, you can rinse and cook the hollowed-out vegetable for another use. Raw vegetables make perfect garnishes. Anything from simple sprigs of flowering herbs to intricately crafted vegetable flowers can be added to individual plates or serving trays or platters to enhance their appearnce.

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Table of Contents

Acknowledgments vii
Introduction xi
Chapter 1 Basic Techniques 3
Chapter 2 Basic Recipes 20
Chapter 3 Luscious Leaves 39
Chapter 4 The Cabbage Clan 64
Chapter 5 The Onion Family 84
Chapter 6 Stalks and Stems 100
Chapter 7 Seeds and Pods 115
Chapter 8 Fruits of the Vegetable World 137
Chapter 9 Roots and Tubers 183
Chapter 10 Cooking with Fresh Herbs 208
Chapter 11 Cooking with Fruit 225
Chapter 12 Beyond Produce 236
Resources 253
Index 277
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First Chapter

BASIC GRATIN

The only thing that makes a casserole a gratin is the crisp, well-browned, broiled topping. You can use buttered bread crumbs, grated cheese, a mixture of the two, or nothing at all over layers of cooked vegetables.

1 pound potatoes, turnips, rutabagas, sweet potatoes, or Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and thinly sliced
1 pound leafy greens, cabbage, zucchini, summer squash, fennel, Belgian endive, or cauliflower, rinsed and drained, if necessary, and thinly sliced, or an additional pound of roots and tubers above
4 tablespoons olive oil or unsalted butter
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped (optional)
2 cups milk, stock, or cooled vegetable cooking liquid
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
1 1/4 cups grated Cheddar, Swiss, Muenster, Monterey Jack, or other cheese
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs or panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

The only thing that makes a casserole a gratin is the crisp, well-browned, broiled topping. You can use buttered bread crumbs, grated cheese, a mixture of the two, or nothing at all over layers of cooked vegetables.

Cook the root vegetables in boiling salted water for 5 to 7 minutes, until the surface starts to look cooked. Drain; save the cooking liquid and let cool to use for the sauce, if desired. Blanch the pound of more tender vegetables; drain thoroughly.

Preheat the oven to 375F. Lightly grease a 2-quart gratin or shallow baking dish.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Saute the onion and garlic, if using, until they start to brown, about 4 minutes.

Whisk the milk into the flour in a small bowl. Whiskthe milk mixture into the onion mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is bubbly and thickened. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Layer half of the root vegetables, 1/3 cup sauce, 1/4 cup cheese, half of
the tender vegetables, 1/3 cup sauce, and 1/4 cup cheese. Repeat, ending with
1 cup sauce and 1/2 cup cheese. Combine the bread crumbs and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. If using butter, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons before combining. Sprinkle crumbs over the cheese.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the root vegetables are tender and the top is well browned.

CHAPTER ONE: BASIC TECHNIQUES

As they are picking up their weekly shares, CSA members often ask us how to clean, store, and use the vegetables. The volunteers working at the site always share their knowledge of the vegetables in question, but tips are immediately added by other members who have come to pick up their produce. We try to make a note of some of this advice and include it in our weekly newsletters. Because members come from all over the world as well as from all over the United States, it is exciting to hear the many different ways a particular vegetable can be handled. This chapter incorporates much of the basics we have learned, while tips for handling specific vegetables will be found in the recipe chapters that follow. We love fresh vegetables because they contribute color, flavor, texture, and nutrition to our diet. All of those factors are affected by the way we handle, store, and cook our produce. These guidelines will help you decide what to do next when you arrive home with a variety of fresh organic vegetables and will provide options when you have no plans for dinner.

One of the major advantages of membership in a CSA is that you have a ready, summer-long supply of local vegetables that have been picked at their prime and shipped a very short distance, and not been warehoused before you get them. This in itself ensures better flavor and less deterioration than in produce that has been picked underripe, shipped across the country, and stored in a wholesale market before reaching your supermarket. To keep your produce in good condition once you get it home, you need to do three things: reduce its respiration, prevent dehydration, and reduce bacterial and mold activity. Even after harvest, vegetables continue to take in oxygen and release carbon dioxide, and this means that they continue their cycle of maturation, which eventually leads to deterioration. Chilling them slows their metabolic activity and prolongs freshness. Covering them tightly helps to reduce the available oxygen and prevent dehydration but may provide the perfect environment for mold growth and doesn't allow the carbon dioxide to escape.

Vegetables will keep longer if they aren't rinsed until you are ready to use them, but they can still be trimmed and placed in paper or plastic bags so that they will take up less room in the refrigerator. As a general rule, refrigerator storage in a ÒbreathableÓ bag (muslin, brown paper, one of the special plastic bags that have tiny holes, or a regular bag with a few holes snipped into it) and periodic removal of any spots or deteriorating pieces will prolong vegetable quality. However, each recipe chapter includes specifics for the vegetables included there. Onions, tomatoes, and potatoes are notable exceptions to this storage rule and should be stored at room temperature, each for a different reason.

Some CSA members find it more convenient to rinse all their produce the day they get it, so that it is ready to use in a hurry for the rest of the week. If you do choose to do this, be sure to drain the vegetables well and plan to use the leafy ones within a few days. Leafy vegetables will keep longer if dried in a salad spinner or wrapped in a kitchen towel after rinsing; root vegetables and fruit vegetables such as tomatoes, squash, and peppers can be allowed to air dry before storing.

We are often asked if it is really necessary to rinse our produce, since it is all organic. Although such produce has no pesticide or chemical fertilizer residue on it, we still recommend rinsing it. Any sand or soil clinging to leaves and roots needs to be removed, and the "tiny footprints" of birds, small animals, and insects who may have visited the fields should be rinsed away. You might have noticed that we never say "wash" the vegetables. We did once and were asked, "With soap?" No, no, no; just a rinse in fresh, cool water will be fine.

Most of the vegetables in our shares don't need to be cooked at all. The exceptions are shelled and dried beans, beets, brussels sprouts, eggplant, parsnips, potatoes, salsify, and winter squash. Even kohlrabi, turnips, and rutabagas can be eaten raw if they are shredded or thinly sliced. Slice, dice, or shred vegetables as near as possible to the time you will eat them; they begin to deteriorate, discolor due to oxidation, dry out on the surface, and lose nutrients as soon as they are cut. If you are preparing crudites for a crowd and must cut and arrange raw vegetables in advance, select those that do not oxidize. Broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, kohlrabi, peppers, radishes, rutabagas, green beans, tomatoes, and turnips make great cruditŽs. Prepare and arrange them on the serving platter, cover them with moistened cheesecloth and plastic wrap, then refrigerate them until just before serving. If you are including tomatoes, the flavor will be better if you slice them, cover them tightly, and set them aside at room temperature; add them to the platter just before serving. If you are cutting or shredding something that oxidizes, toss the pieces immediately with an acid such as lemon, orange, or tomato juice, shredded onion, vinegar, salad dressing, yogurt, sour cream, or a vitamin C tablet dissolved in water, to prevent darkening.

Raw vegetables make wonderful natural containers for dips, sauces, spreads, salad dressings, soups, stews, or salads. Depending upon the size container you need, remove the top and clean or hollow out the center of a summer or winter squash, pumpkin, pepper, tomato, or cabbage. Once it has served as a container, you can rinse and cook the hollowed-out vegetable for another use. Raw vegetables make perfect garnishes. Anything from simple sprigs of flowering herbs to intricately crafted vegetable flowers can be added to individual plates or serving trays or platters to enhance their appearnce.

Copyright© 2003 by Joanne Lamb Hayes and Lori Stein with Maura Webber
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