Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide

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Overview

Certified rock guide Craig Luebben is so attuned to the finer points of rock climbing anchors that he used his engineering background to invent his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Now, in Rock Climbing Anchors, he presents the very latest in anchoring theory and techniques, including the pros and cons of specific gear placements and anchor rigging strategies. For climbers who want to create safe and efficient anchors for top-roping, rappelling, mountaineering, sport climbing and trad climbing: Rock Climbing Anchors is the source! A professional rock climbing guide, trainer of rock climbing guides for the AMGA, and the author of Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills and other titles, Craig Luebben is also a
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Overview

Certified rock guide Craig Luebben is so attuned to the finer points of rock climbing anchors that he used his engineering background to invent his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Now, in Rock Climbing Anchors, he presents the very latest in anchoring theory and techniques, including the pros and cons of specific gear placements and anchor rigging strategies. For climbers who want to create safe and efficient anchors for top-roping, rappelling, mountaineering, sport climbing and trad climbing: Rock Climbing Anchors is the source! A professional rock climbing guide, trainer of rock climbing guides for the AMGA, and the author of Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills and other titles, Craig Luebben is also a senior contributing editor for Climbing magazine.

Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781594850066
  • Publisher: Mountaineers Books, The
  • Publication date: 2/28/2007
  • Pages: 250
  • Sales rank: 187,803
  • Series: Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series
  • Product dimensions: 7.00 (w) x 8.50 (h) x 0.70 (d)

Table of Contents


Acknowledgments     11
Introduction     13
Anchor Basics
Top-rope anchors     21
Rappel anchors     21
Sport climbing anchors     23
Belay anchors     23
Lead protection     24
Aid and big wall climbing     25
Clean climbing     25
Forces on climbing anchors     25
How many anchors?     28
How important is equalization?     29
Pre-equalized anchors     30
Self-equalizing anchors     33
V-angle     38
Pulley effect     39
Multidirectional anchors     40
Climber attachment to the anchors     41
Belaying the second     45
Belaying the leader     50
Rock type and rock quality     52
Natural and Fixed Anchors
Natural anchors     57
Fixed anchors     63
Chocks
Evolution of climbing chocks     75
Wired nuts     76
Hexagonal chocks     85
Tri-cams     86
Sliding nuts     88
Expandable tubes     89
Size and strength     92
Cams
Cam evolution     100
Setting and removing cams     106
Good and bad cam placements     108
Cam testing     111
Cam design     111
Top-rope and Rappel Anchors
Slingshot top rope     122
Top belay     124
Rappel anchors     129
Sport Climbing Anchors
Clipping bolts     140
Rigging top anchors for lowering and top-roping     144
Multipitch belay anchors     145
Traditional Belay Anchors
Belay station     151
Belay rigging methods     152
Cordelette craft     157
Minimalist rigging with slings     169
Rigging with the climbing rope     172
Trad Leading
Protecting the climb     182
Climbing Forces
Newton's laws of motion     197
Potential and kinetic energy     198
Impact force     200
Impulse and momentum     203
Strength of climbing gear     205
Webbing, Cord, and Carabiners     208
Knots     212
Equations     233
Glossary     235
Resources     243
Index     245

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  • Anonymous

    Posted February 11, 2007

    Looking for an Anchors Book? BUY THIS ONE!!!

    Wow!!! That was literally the first word that popped into my head as I started reading this book. The number and quality of photos BLOWS away any other comparable book. It looks like there are about 3X as many photos as others on the market, making it THE BEST visual source of information on individual placements as well as overall anchor configurations. As we all know, ¿a picture is worth a thousand words.¿ And, in this case, a picture could be worth your life as well. I could go on and on about how/why this book is so much stronger than others out there. Some highlights are below: - Luebben¿s mechanical engineering background is very apparent when you read this book. Being an engineer myself, I really appreciate having a book written by someone who truly understands the mechanics involved with anchor rigging. - He explains the v-angle and pulley effect (which others only elude to), and there is an appropriate distinction between body weight -- top roping, seconding, rappelling forces -- versus leader fall forces. - There is a whole chapter explaining climbing physics, and there is a lot more information about cam and nut design and placement considerations. - Many more anchor rigging options are discussed and pictured, including some minimalistic ones just using slings. - Luebben does a much better job explaining how to make judgment-based decisions as opposed to following a standard set of rules for all situations. - All of the above factors make Luebben¿s book a better source for more experienced climbers (in addition to beginners) than others on the market. - According to the back cover, Lynn Hill has even recognized Luebben¿s experience and knowledge, as she selected Craig to be the main anchor and self rescue trainer for her climbing camps ¿ that¿s pretty cool! Bottom line¿even if you have other books (new or old) it is well worth your money to invest in buying this book. So much has changed in anchor theory in recent years and this book brings together the latest and greatest options.

    1 out of 1 people found this review helpful.

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