Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guideby Craig Luebben
Certified rock guide Craig Luebben is so attuned to the finer points of rock climbing anchors that he used his engineering background to invent his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Now, in Rock Climbing Anchors, he presents the very latest in anchoring theory and techniques, including the pros and cons of specific gear placements and anchor rigging strategies. For climbers who want to create safe and efficient anchors for top-roping, rappelling, mountaineering, sport climbing and trad climbing: Rock Climbing Anchors is the source! A professional rock climbing guide, trainer of rock climbing guides for the AMGA, and the author of Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills and other titles, Craig Luebben is also a senior contributing editor for Climbing magazine.
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Wow!!! That was literally the first word that popped into my head as I started reading this book. The number and quality of photos BLOWS away any other comparable book. It looks like there are about 3X as many photos as others on the market, making it THE BEST visual source of information on individual placements as well as overall anchor configurations. As we all know, ¿a picture is worth a thousand words.¿ And, in this case, a picture could be worth your life as well. I could go on and on about how/why this book is so much stronger than others out there. Some highlights are below: - Luebben¿s mechanical engineering background is very apparent when you read this book. Being an engineer myself, I really appreciate having a book written by someone who truly understands the mechanics involved with anchor rigging. - He explains the v-angle and pulley effect (which others only elude to), and there is an appropriate distinction between body weight -- top roping, seconding, rappelling forces -- versus leader fall forces. - There is a whole chapter explaining climbing physics, and there is a lot more information about cam and nut design and placement considerations. - Many more anchor rigging options are discussed and pictured, including some minimalistic ones just using slings. - Luebben does a much better job explaining how to make judgment-based decisions as opposed to following a standard set of rules for all situations. - All of the above factors make Luebben¿s book a better source for more experienced climbers (in addition to beginners) than others on the market. - According to the back cover, Lynn Hill has even recognized Luebben¿s experience and knowledge, as she selected Craig to be the main anchor and self rescue trainer for her climbing camps ¿ that¿s pretty cool! Bottom line¿even if you have other books (new or old) it is well worth your money to invest in buying this book. So much has changed in anchor theory in recent years and this book brings together the latest and greatest options.
This book teaches you everything you'll ever need to know about climbing anchors. Took me from the couch to the crag.