Read an Excerpt
Scoop Adventures
The Best Ice Cream of the 50 States
By Lindsay Clendaniel Page Street Publishing Co.
Copyright © 2014 Lindsay Clendaniel
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-62414-041-9
CHAPTER 1
THE SUGARY SOUTHEAST
Delaware, District of Columbia, Florida, Georgia, Maryland, North Carolina, South Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia
To me, the Southeast is home. I grew up just south of the Mason – Dixon Line. Childhood summers in Maryland were filled with swim camps, mini golf and trips to the local ice cream stand. I fondly remember the excitement and indecision of choosing a flavor, then peering over the top of the counter to watch my ice cream being scooped as I waited with excited anticipation. There was nothing better than lapping up the sweet and creamy ice cream as it slid off the cone and dripped down my hand.
Although my memories are not unique to my home state, the presence of a plethora of ice cream shops in this region suggests that many children have enjoyed the same experience. The trail from north to south will take you from the sweet and salty flavor of Junk in the Tree Trunk, to the decadence of Chocolate Orange, to the fruitiness of Pink Panther and the sun-kissed flavor of Abuela Maria.
From the bayside states of Maryland and Delaware, through the historic towns of D.C., Virginia and West Virginia, along the beaches of North and South Carolina, to the rolling hills of Georgia and the blue waters of Florida, the flavors of the Southeast are as diverse as the states. Try out the recipes in this chapter to experience something unique at every turn.
Honey Sunflower Seed Ice Cream
Moorenko's, Silver Spring, Maryland
MAKES 1 GENEROUS QUART (940ML)
Honey Sunflower Seed is one of owner Susan Soorenko's favorite flavors from her shop because it is a wonderful sweet and salty change from the ubiquitous Salted Caramel. This ice cream embodies the same sweet and savory appeal of caramel ice cream but is a bit edgier. The toasted sunflower seeds pair beautifully with the bold flavor of the wildflower honey. Serve with your favorite fresh fruit.
TOASTED SUNFLOWER SEEDS
1 tbsp (15ml) fruity olive oil
¾ cup (120g) raw sunflower seeds
1½ tsp sea salt
ICE CREAM BASE
½ cup (118ml) wildflower honey (or dark honey of choice)
2 cups (473ml) heavy cream
5 large egg yolks
1 cup (237ml) whole milk
¼ cup (50g) sugar
Pinch of salt
To prepare the sunflower seeds, coat a heavy skillet with olive oil, removing the excess. Add the sunflower seeds and stir to lightly coat. Sprinkle salt over the seeds and toast over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the seeds start to brown and become fragrant, about 5 minutes. Once toasted, let the sunflower seeds sit in the pan for a few minutes, then refrigerate to cool completely before adding to the ice cream.
To make the ice cream base, warm the honey slightly. Pour the cream into a medium bowl and mix in the warmed honey. Set aside. Whisk the egg yolks in a medium bowl and set aside. Combine the milk, sugar and pinch of salt in a medium saucepan. Warm over medium heat until the mixture is hot and the sugar is dissolved, 4 to 5 minutes. Temper the eggs by slowly pouring ½ cup (120ml) of the warmed milk mixture into the yolks, whisking constantly until combined. Return the warmed yolks to the pan with the remaining milk mixture. Heat the custard over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and pour through a fine-mesh sieve into the bowl with the cream and honey mixture. Cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.
Once chilled, pour the base into your ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions. Just before the ice cream is finished churning, add the toasted sunflower seeds (save a few seeds to sprinkle on top of the finished ice cream). Transfer to a freezer-safe container and sprinkle with the remaining sunflower seeds. Freeze until firm, at least 4 hours. Serve soft over fresh summer fruit or keep in your freezer to eat standing up in the middle of the night.
Junk in the Tree Trunk Ice Cream
Adapted from recipe by UDairy Creamery, University of Delaware, Newark, Delaware
MAKES 1 ½ QUARTS (1.4L)
I have a sweet spot in my heart for this flavor because it is made by my alma mater. The UDairy Creamery did not open until after I graduated college; however, it is hard to resist a sweet and gooey maple ice cream produced with milk from cows that roam near campus. This flavor was inspired by the botanical gardens at the University of Delaware's College of Agriculture & Natural Resources, close to where they make the ice cream.
ICE CREAM BASE
2 cups (473ml) heavy cream
1½ cups (355ml) whole milk
¼ cup (50g) sugar
¾ tsp vanilla extract
¾ cup (177ml) dark maple syrup
PRALINE
¾ cup (151g) packed brown sugar
1/3 cup (79ml) half-and-half
1 tbsp (14g) butter
¼ cup (33g) confectioners' sugar
1 cup (120g) chopped pecans
½ cup (118ml) caramel topping (store-bought or see here)
To make the ice cream base, fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. Combine the cream, milk, sugar, vanilla and maple syrup in a medium saucepan. Place over medium heat and warm until the mixture is hot and the sugar and maple syrup are dissolved, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a medium bowl. Set the bowl in the ice water bath to cool, 20 minutes, whisking occasionally. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.
While the ice cream base is cooling, make the praline. Combine the brown sugar, half-and-half, butter and confectioners' sugar in a medium saucepan. Warm the ingredients over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture bubbles and begins to rise. Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the pecans. Stir until the pecans are evenly coated, then pour into a shallow container. Freeze until cool and ready to use. The mixture will not completely harden.
Once the ice cream base is chilled, pour the base into an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions. Break up the praline into smaller pieces (this process will be messy). When churning is complete, gently fold in the praline pieces and the caramel topping. Transfer to a freezer-safe container and freeze until firm, at least 4 hours. The longer you allow the praline to sit in the ice cream, the gooier it will become.
Blueberry Kale Ice Cream
The Hop Ice Cream Café, Asheville, North Carolina
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART (940ML)
I know what you're thinking. Kale in ice cream? Thankfully, the owners of The Hop decided to give it a shot. After all, adding spinach, kale and other super greens to smoothies and juices is already a national health trend, so it made sense to create a "green" ice cream. To make the ice cream more accessible to the public, a sweet blueberry swirl was added using local berries when available. Besides moonlighting as a healthier twist on ice cream, this flavor is an especially tasty and attractive scoop. Give it a try — you will be pleasantly surprised.
ICE CREAM BASE
5 egg yolks
¾ cup (150g) + 3 ½ tsp (42g) sugar, divided
2 cups (473ml) heavy cream
¾ cup (177ml) milk
Pinch of salt
2 oz (56g) raw kale, torn into small pieces
2½ tsp (12ml) lemon juice
½ tsp lemon zest
BLUEBERRY SWIRL
½ cup (96g) fresh blueberries
4 tsp (16g) sugar
To make the ice cream base, whisk the egg yolks and ¼ cup (50g) of the sugar in a medium bowl until pale in color; set aside. In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, milk, ½ cup (100g) sugar and a pinch of salt. Place the pan over medium heat and warm until the mixture is hot and the sugar dissolves, 3 to 4 minutes. Temper the eggs by slowly pouring ½ cup (120ml) of the warmed cream mixture into the yolks, whisking constantly until combined. Return the warmed yolks to the pan with the remaining cream mixture. Heat the custard over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl. Cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.
Once the custard is chilled, combine 1 cup (237ml) of the cooled custard, the kale, the remaining 3 ½ teaspoons (42g) sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest in a blender. Purée until smooth. Combine with the remaining custard, taste and add more lemon juice if desired. Pour the ice cream base into an ice cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions.
While the ice cream is churning, make the blueberry swirl. Purée the blueberries and sugar in a food processor or blender. Once churning is complete, transfer the ice cream to a freezer-safe container and gently swirl in the blueberry purée, evenly distributing but leaving a thick ribbon of purée. Freeze overnight.
Tip: For added sweetness, mix half of the blueberry swirl into the ice cream base before churning, and then fold in the remaining swirl once the ice cream is churned.
Pink Panther Ice Cream
Adapted from recipe by Ellen's Homemade Ice Cream, Charleston, West Virginia
MAKES 1 QUART (940ML)
In addition to being an ice cream maker, owner Ellen Beal performs as a flutist with the West Virginia Symphony. She was inspired to create this flavor during a Pops concert in which the symphony performed music from the Pink Panther movie. While speaking to the audience, the conductor indicated he thought pink panther sounded like it should be an ice cream flavor! The audience seemed to like the suggestion, so Ellen set to work in her shop, creating a fruity and tart ice cream using the cocktail of the same name as inspiration.
6 oz (170g) fresh raspberries
1 tbsp (15ml) orange juice concentrate
1¾ cups (414ml) heavy cream
1¼ cups (295ml) whole milk
¾ cup (150g) sugar
Pinch of salt
1 tsp orange zest
2½ tbsp (37ml) crème de cassis
Place the raspberries in a blender and purée until smooth. Strain the purée through a fine-mesh sieve to remove the seeds. In a medium bowl, combine the raspberry purée with the orange juice concentrate. Cover and set aside.
Combine the cream, milk, sugar, salt and orange zest in a medium saucepan. Place over medium heat and bring the milk mixture to a low boil. Cook until the sugar dissolves, 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour through a sieve into the raspberry–orange juice mixture. Cool to room temperature. Once cool, stir in the cassis. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.
Once chilled, pour the ice cream base into an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to a freezer-safe container and freeze until firm, at least 4 hours.
Lemon Ricotta Cardamom Gelato
Adapted from recipe by Dolcezza, Washington, D.C.
MAKES 1 QUART (940ML)
Owner Robb Duncan was approached one Sunday afternoon by a fellow farmers' market vendor, who offered to provide him with fresh ricotta cheese to use in his gelato. Soon a food partnership was born. Robb began making Honey Ricotta Gelato and then Almond Ricotta, but he still felt something was missing. When he changed his recipe to Lemon Ricotta Cardamom, the flavor was an instant winner with the folks at the farmers' market and now in his four shops. The gelato has a lovely balance of playful ricotta in the base, lemon riding on top with acidity and brightness, and cardamom to bring out the flavors.
LEMON SYRUP
2 to 3 lemons
2 tbsp (25g) sugar
GELATO BASE
2½ cups (592ml) whole milk
½ cup (118ml) heavy cream
¼ cup (133g) sugar
¼ cup (59ml) corn syrup
½ cup (118ml) whole milk ricotta cheese
Pinch of salt
¼ to ½ tsp ground cardamom
To prepare lemon syrup, use a vegetable peeler to remove the zest of one lemon in large strips; set aside. Squeeze the lemons until you have 6 tablespoons (90ml) of juice. Combine the juice with the sugar in a small saucepan and place over medium heat. Heat until the sugar is dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour into a small bowl, cover and refrigerate until completely cool.
To prepare the base, combine the milk, cream, sugar, corn syrup and reserved lemon zest in a medium saucepan and place over medium heat. Warm the base until bubbles begin to form, stirring occasionally to combine the ingredients. Remove from the heat and transfer to a medium bowl. Allow to cool for 5 minutes, and then add the ricotta and salt, whisking to combine. Cover and chill the base in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or overnight.
When ready to churn, remove the lemon zest. Add the lemon syrup to the chilled gelato base and whisk to combine. Add the cardamom. Taste and add more cardamom if needed (you should taste light floral aromatic notes from middle to end). Once you are pleased with the taste, pour the gelato base into an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions. Churn until the gelato has reached the consistency of a barely pourable smoothie. Transfer to a freezer-safe container and freeze until firm, at least 4 hours.
Tips: Buy the freshest and best ricotta cheese you can find. Do not squeeze lemons until the last minute to have the freshest lemon juice possible. Be careful with the cardamom, because it can be very unforgiving.
Orange Chocolate Decadence
Adapted from recipe by Bev's Homemade Ice Cream, Richmond, Virginia
MAKES 1 GENEROUS QUART (940ML)
Orange and chocolate are a winning combination. If you have never tried these flavors together, now is the time to start. Acidic and sweet orange is the perfect complement to the creamy and thick chocolate base in this ice cream. A touch of vanilla brings out the floral quality of the orange. After you try this scoop, you may never go back to plain chocolate.
CHOCOLATE LIQUOR
½ cup (56g) cocoa powder
¼ cup (59ml) water
1/3 cup (67g) sugar
ICE CREAM BASE
3 egg yolks
1 orange
2 cups (473ml) heavy cream, divided
1½ cups (355ml) whole milk
½ cup (100g) sugar
Pinch of salt
½ tsp vanilla extract
2 tsp (10ml) orange liqueur (optional)
To make the chocolate liquor, combine the cocoa powder, water and sugar in a small saucepan. Place the saucepan over low heat and bring to a low boil, whisking constantly until the ingredients are combined. Remove from the heat, pour into a medium bowl and set aside.
To make the ice cream base, fill a large bowl with ice water. Whisk the egg yolks in a medium bowl and set aside. Use a vegetable peeler to remove the zest of the orange in large strips and set aside. Squeeze the orange and pour the juice into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the juice is half its original volume, 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
In a medium saucepan, combine ¾ cup (177ml) of the cream, milk, sugar, reserved orange zest and pinch of salt. Place the pan over medium heat and warm until the mixture is hot and the sugar dissolves, 4 to 5 minutes. Temper the eggs by slowly pouring ½ cup (120ml) of the warmed cream mixture into the yolks, whisking constantly until combined. Return the warmed yolks to the pan with the remaining cream mixture. Heat the custard over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and pour through a fine-mesh sieve into the bowl with the chocolate liquor. Remove the zest from the sieve and return it to the ice cream base. Add the reserved orange juice and remaining 1 ¼ cups (295ml) cream and stir to combine. Set the bowl in the ice water bath to cool, 20 minutes, whisking occasionally. Add the vanilla and stir to combine. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.
Once chilled, remove the zest from the ice cream base. Add the orange liquor, if using. Pour the base into an ice cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to a freezer-safe container and freeze for at least 4 hours.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Scoop Adventures by Lindsay Clendaniel. Copyright © 2014 Lindsay Clendaniel. Excerpted by permission of Page Street Publishing Co..
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