Shellfish

Overview

The ultimate shellfish cookbook from a world-renowned chef.

As a highly respected (and some would say revolutionary) chef, Leif Mannerström was the first recipient of the Kungsfenan, Sweden's coveted maritime gastronomy award. Shellfish is the first collection of his shellfish recipes and the first to bring his impeccable knowledge of shellfish to North American cooks.

Mannerström keeps one foot firmly planted in the best traditions of ocean ...

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Overview

The ultimate shellfish cookbook from a world-renowned chef.

As a highly respected (and some would say revolutionary) chef, Leif Mannerström was the first recipient of the Kungsfenan, Sweden's coveted maritime gastronomy award. Shellfish is the first collection of his shellfish recipes and the first to bring his impeccable knowledge of shellfish to North American cooks.

Mannerström keeps one foot firmly planted in the best traditions of ocean cuisine while creating dishes that appeal to the modern palate. The book covers every type of shellfish: sea mussels, clams, lobster, scampi, crab, crayfish, oysters, scallops, shrimps, prawns, gambas, sea urchin, whelk and their accompaniments.

The book features more than 200 imaginative recipes, some with new twists on tradition, others divinely original. They include:

  • Lobster sausage with sauerkraut
  • Oven-baked clams with hazelnut dressing
  • Lobster gratin
  • Asian seaweed crab soup
  • Veal roast with signal crayfish
  • Oyster pie with crisp bacon
  • Pancetta-wrapped scallops with sage
  • Sea urchin soup.

There is also a full selection of recipes for basics like aioli, cocktail sauce and fish stock that are the foundation of cooking with shellfish.

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Editorial Reviews

Cookbook Digest - Rosemary Black
This gorgeous new book should go a long way toward a long way toward mystifying the shopping, cooking and serving of seafood.... More than 200 recipes will keep those passionate about seafood cookery busy for a very long time... Impeccably prepared seafood dishes unfold on page after page — some as whimsical as scrambled eggs served in empty eggshells and garnished with shrimp, shrimp roe and fresh herbs, and others as pristine as poached Norway lobsters with dill mayonnaise. The chef, who is so famous in his native Sweden that he's pictured on a national postage stamp, has an infectious enthusiasm for shellfish. And even if you don't ever have the time to whip up his poached oysters with spinach and hollandaise on toast, this book will catch and hold your attention simply because of the photos and the wealth of information presented in such a digestible, entertaining format.
Culinary Trends
From one of Sweden's most decorated chefs comes an elegant book on the delicacies of Scandinavia: Shellfish. The recipes from this Michelin-starred chef are best suited for the professional chef, as the techniques and ingredients trend toward the refined and luxurious. Standouts in the book include "Norway lobster Carpaccio with beets marinated in truffle oil," "Scrambled egg, flavored with chives and shrimp roe," "Poached oysters with spinach and hollandaise on toast" and "Deep fried blue mussels with salted loin of pork and bleak roe."
Douglas Dispatch - Marialisa Catala
Swedish chef Leif Mannerström...clearly knows (and loves) his seafood.
Calgary Herald - Shelley Boettcher
[A cookbook] for the current Euro taste trends.
Culinaria Libris
For those of you with a shellfish allergy, look away now because today we are taking a look at Shellfish by Leif Mannerström... For me, it's all my Christmases come at once... Mannerström is a pioneer of New Swedish cuisine and the first winner of Sweden's coveted Maritime Gastronomy Award. This man knows his scallops... Bringing out the flavor of the shellfish without drowning them in ancillary seasonings is key to successful shellfish cookery. That's where this book succeeds... After perusing the gorgeous photos and recipes of Shellfish, I'll bet you get your crab crackers out of hibernation.
Publishers Weekly
No matter which crustacean floats your boat, the first collection from Swedish chef Mannerström will give you plenty of options among more than 200 recipes. Though there's no organization, just one recipe after another (abutted by beautiful full-color photos and occasional commentary), an index-like table of contents helpfully arranges recipes by main ingredient. Classics like paella, bouillabaisse and mussels with pomme frites are the exceptions to Mannerström's inventive rule, exploiting a bounty of local and regional fare with recipes for Norway lobsters, sea urchin, whelks and cockles. Tasty riffs like stir-fried mussels in a dill and béchamel sauce cradled in a crepe, a rich oyster pie with bacon and cheese, and an omelet with curried crab should awaken tired palates, while more involved fare such as Mousseline of scallop, lobster with truffle and Norway lobster sauce, and a Cassoulet of lobster, veal sweetbreads and tarragon sauce offer new challenges for experienced cooks. Though its appeal may be limited due to a decidedly European feel and an emphasis on ingredients not easily sourced on U.S. shores, seafood lovers looking for inspiration should find many new ideas and flavor combinations.
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781554075164
  • Publisher: Firefly Books, Limited
  • Publication date: 9/1/2009
  • Pages: 256
  • Product dimensions: 8.60 (w) x 11.10 (h) x 1.00 (d)

Meet the Author

Leif Mannerström is a master chef and restaurateur. His award-winning fish and seafood restaurant, Sjömagasinet, is Michelin-starred and has been featured in many cuisine and travel reviews.

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Table of Contents

Table of Contents

(categorized by main ingredient)

Blue mussels

Deep-fried blue mussels with salted loin of pork and bleak roe

Fricassee of monkfish, mussels and lemongrass sauce

Garlic mussels with hazelnut butter

Mussel carbonara

Mussel crêpes

Mussel soup with pork and fennel

Mussel soup with squash curry

Mussels and french fries

Toast with lightly smoked mussels and marinated mango salad

Toasted rye bread with tomato and dill-marinated mussels

Clams, cockles, soft-shelled clams

Baked clams with hazelnut dressing

Cockles à l'Español in a lemon vinaigrette

Crab

Asian shore crab soup

Crab au gratin with Swedish anchovies

Crab bruschetta as a starter

Crab salad

Omelette with curried crab

Spider crab with an avocado dressing

Warm crab claws

Crayfish

Boiling freshwater crayfish

Cold roast veal with signal crayfish

Globe artichoke crowns (bottoms) stuffed with signal crayfish

Poached chicken with signal crayfish and Västerbotten cheese

Lobster

Asian lobster salad

Boiled lobster

Cassoulet oflobster and veal sweetbreads with tarragon sauce

Fried lobster with lobster risotto

Lobster au gratin

Lobster in a sweet and sour dill sauce

Lobster Johanna

Lobster soup

Lobster with a vanilla beurre blanc sauce

Toast fried in butter with a Brie, lobster and truffle cream filling

Warm boiled lobster with a horseradish butter sauce

Mixed shellfish

Bouillabaisse

Clam chowder

Crab and Norway lobster salad

Fusilli pasta with shellfish

Lobster sausage with sauerkraut

Mixed shellfish salad

Mousseline of scallop and Norway lobster with truffle and Norway lobster sauce

Mussel risotto with seared gambas

Norway lobster and scallops in a lemon vinaigrette

Paella mariscos

Sashimi of king crab, Norway lobster, scallop and truffle

Scallops and razor clams with tomato and paprika salad

Shellfish cake

Shellfish casserole

Shellfish lasagna

Shellfish paella

Shellfish terrine

Sushi

Yellow beet carpaccio with Norway lobster tails and oyster and spinach sauce

Norway lobsters

Caesar salad with Norway lobster tails

Fish 'n chips with Norway lobster and a lobster and fennel aïoli

Lemon-splashed Norway lobsters with paprika salad

Norway lobster with Baltic herring

Norway lobster Carpaccio with beets marinated in truffle oil

Norway lobster salad with avocado and blood grapefruit

Norway lobster tails fried in butter and served with grated horseradish

Panko-fried Norway lobsters with mango salsa

Poached Norway lobsters with dill mayonnaise

Roquefort-baked Norway lobsters

Sashimi of Norway lobsters

Oysters

Cocktail with grilled oysters and smoked pork

Grilled oysters with Danish remoulade

Poached oysters with spinach and hollandaise on toast

Oysters au gratin cooked in porter

Oysters au naturel with a shallot dressing

Oyster pie with crispy bacon

Oysters with salmon roe

Razor clams

Razor clams with grapefruit salad

Scallops

Asparagus wrapped in lardo with seared scallops and browned hazelnut butter

Grilled scallops with lemon-braised fennel

Pancetta-wrapped scallop with sage

Scallops Provençale

Scallops Rossini

Scallops with pata negra ham, root parsley purée and balsamic vinaigrette

Sesame-fried scallops with ginger and spring onion

Sea urchin

Sea urchin soup

Shrimp and gambas

American shrimp cocktail

Joppe's shrimp salad

Large seared gambas with mojo sauce and Spanish salt potatoes

Lukewarm shrimp salad with browned butter

proper shrimp sandwich, A

Scrambled egg, flavored with chives and served with shrimp roe

Seared raw shrimp in rice paper with a mango and chilli dip

Shrimp soup

Skagen toast

Smørrebrød with smoked shrimp

Spanish garlic shrimp

Whelks

Whelk salad

Accompaniments and notes

Aïoli

American cocktail sauce

Béchamel sauce

Beurre blanc sauce

Dijon vinaigrette

Fish stock

Green mojo sauce

Homemade mayonnaise with mustard

Lobster and fennel aïoli

Mustard sauce

Pale chicken stock

Pre-cooking lobster and crayfish

Red mojo sauce

Red wine sauce

Remoulade sauce

Rhode Island sauce

Rouille

Sharp sauce

Shellfish butter

Shellfish stock

Spanish salt potatoes

Tomato salsa

Vierge sauce

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Preface

Introduction

Shrimp, Sophia Loren and craftsmanship

My first big shellfish experience occurred when I was 9 or 10 years old. I blew a week's worth of allowance on shrimp and sat down with them on some steps in the Helsingborg docks. I ate them with reverence, sucking the last drop of goodness out of each and every one of them. And in those days two-and-a-half crowns would buy you a fair number!

At 15 I had my first introduction to making real lobster soup. The cook split the lobsters while they were still living, which I thought was rather grisly. "Shouldn't you boil it first?" I asked. "No," came the reply, "you can't boil a pig before you butcher it!" We used the green coral of the female lobsters for a soup made with butter and cognac. When the soup boils, its color changes from green to red. That was a thrilling sight — shellfish are marvelous to work with! My job was to pour on the cognac and Madeira after the cook had sampled them — well, that's the way things were in those days.

One of the first places I worked at was the Maritime restaurant in the Strand Hotel in Nybroviken, Stockholm; in its day it was the finest shellfish restaurant of all. I was put in charge of the shellfish counter, which I made up every day — a wonderfully enjoyable task for a boy. My passion for shellfish was compounded one day when I was told to arrange a shellfish platter for Sophia Loren, who was staying at the hotel. She was the dream woman at that time!

I put so much love and hard labor into that platter that when the chef saw it he told me to go in and serve it myself. She was so delighted, she held the dish aloft, creating a golden photo opportunity; the dining room was lit up by the popping flashbulbs. The pictures were published everywhere, and a tremendous fuss was made when people noticed that Sophia Loren hadn't shaved her armpits.

I already knew at a tender age that this was my vocation, and I was only 23 when I became chef at the Henriksberg restaurant, where I was the youngest person in the kitchen. Restaurant kitchens were a tough proposition in those days: eat or be eaten — it was that kind of hierarchy!

Sjömagasinet is the biggest fish and shellfish restaurant in Sweden. Given that we serve fresh shellfish, offerings are very much dependent on wind and weather. It is a point of honor to let a customer know that a certain raw material may not be obtainable on a certain day.

People often moan about shellfish prices, but anyone who has been out in a fishing boat, pulling up lobster pots in the rain and gale-force winds only to harvest perhaps four lobsters in 30 pots, will know what heavy work it is. Who would be prepared to work for that kind of money? No, that sort of fishing is a craft that deserves our full respect! There's an old joke that says there was once a fisherman from Fjällbacka, near Göteborg, who went out fishing in really stormy weather. Turning to his friend, he said, "You know Larry, I wouldn't want to be ashore in dirty weather like this." Ha!

I have innumerable memories and could go on telling stories indefinitely, but this book isn't really about me. Instead the leading characters of the play between the covers are the shrimp, the lobsters, the crayfish, the Norway lobsters, the mussels, the oysters and the crabs! My own tales and anecdotes from a long life at the stove will one day be collected in my memoirs, at present code-named A Scullion Remembers.

Remember that no recipe is sacred; you do not have to follow it implicitly. You can, in which case it will turn out as if I had made it. But a recipe can also be thought of as inspiration, or why not as hands-on poetry? You have to be inquisitive when cooking, ready to experiment. Crayfish are a raw material offering numerous possibilities. And just think of all the exciting things to be created with shellfish that can be bought live.

Or else you can just boil them and eat them with lemon. Or maybe an aïoli ...

Or perhaps, as the old saying goes, the tastiest results are achieved by doing as little as possible with the very best ingredients.

Göteborg, August 2008
Leif Mannerström

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