South with the Sun: Roald Amundsen, His Polar Explorations, and the Quest for Discovery

Overview

“This book is as autobiographical as it is biographical . . . a book that juxtaposes two adventurers, one with her own challenges still unfolding and the other with his position fixed in history . . . a book worthy of the centenary celebration of Amundsen’s trek to the South Pole.”—San Francisco Chronicle

Today the North and South Poles are home to research stations and film crews, but just a century ago they were forbidding lands seldom seen by human eyes. Those who journeyed ...

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Overview

“This book is as autobiographical as it is biographical . . . a book that juxtaposes two adventurers, one with her own challenges still unfolding and the other with his position fixed in history . . . a book worthy of the centenary celebration of Amundsen’s trek to the South Pole.”—San Francisco Chronicle

Today the North and South Poles are home to research stations and film crews, but just a century ago they were forbidding lands seldom seen by human eyes. Those who journeyed there were the last true explorers, and one of the most successful ever was Roald Amundsen. Known as “the last of the Vikings,” the Norwegian-born Amundsen began his career of adventure at age fifteen and by forty had become the first man to successfully navigate the Northwest Passage, and to reach both the North and South Poles.

As a girl, Lynne Cox read of Amundsen’s exploits, which inspired her to follow her own adventurous dreams of open-water swimming. Here, she gives an account of Amundsen’s life and expeditions while detailing her own experiences swimming (without a wetsuit) in the same polar regions he first explored. At once a biography, history, and memoir, South with the Sun holds something for any lover of adventure.

“Not to miss . . . It's fascinating to read about the Norwegian hardman through the eyes of Cox.”—Outside

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Editorial Reviews

Joshua Hammer
…[Cox's] enthusiasm and energy are infectious. And she effectively conveys the dramatic desolation of Arctic landscapes…
—The New York Times Book Review
Library Journal
In a disjointed, overlong narrative, Cox, a pioneer of open-water long-distance swimming, traces the expeditions of famed Norwegian polar explorer Roald Amundsen, examines his role in inspiring her own interest in extreme endeavors, and recounts her polar travels and swimming feats in frigid seas. While Cox's ability to swim without a wet suit in freezing waters is potentially captivating, she fails to articulate adequately her motivations for these swims and provides only limited insight into the physical training and biological processes that enable her to survive these risky aquatic exploits. An awkward amalgamation of memoir and polar exploration history, this work is misleadingly titled as focusing mainly on Amundsen, but large portions turn out to be about Cox herself. The sections on Amundsen's triumphant 1911 conquest of the South Pole are tepid, and clumsily mixed into Cox's own story, which is padded with minutiae about every detail of her travels. VERDICT Readers interested in Amundsen would likely prefer Roland Huntford's The Last Place on Earth, while those interested in Cox and her swimming prowess may prefer her first book, Swimming to Antarctica: Tales of a Long-Distance Swimmer. Best-suited to easygoing readers interested in open-water swimming, polar exploration, or extreme adventure in cold climates. [See Prepub Alert, 2/28/11.]—Ingrid Levin, Salve Regina Univ. Lib., Newport, RI
Kirkus Reviews

Record-breaking long-distance swimmer Cox (Grayson, 2008, etc.) retraces Norwegian explorer's Roald Amundsen's groundbreaking polar explorations.

Part personal memoir and part a recounting of earlier voyages of discovery, the book's release is timed to coincide with the centenary of the famous 1911 race to the South Pole when Amundsen beat the British standard-bearer Robert Scott's ill-fated party by less than a month. The author, who tested her endurance by swimming in subzero temperatures, reports her fascination with the pioneering efforts of Amundsen and his Norwegian predecessors. She sees a parallel between her own preparations to swim in extremely cold waters and their similar efforts to prepare to endure glacial conditions. The Norwegian explorer Fridtjof Nansen, a mentor to Amundsen, hoped to find the Northwest passage. He and his crew trained in Greenland, where they studied the survival skills of the local Inuit population. Though he failed, Amundsen followed in his footsteps and succeeded, and he intended to return to the Arctic but was thwarted by the beginning of World War I. After the war, he became involved with exploratory air flights to the North and South Poles. Cox writes about how she attempted to follow in their footsteps—swimming in Greenland's freezing waters—in order to explore "the inner and outer worlds of what a human being could achieve." She weaves together her own experiences, including a flight to the South Pole, with those of the earlier explorers, and relates interesting anecdotes about the people who helped her on her quest.

Entertaining, but readers may wish for more Amundsen and less Cox.

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780547905785
  • Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
  • Publication date: 11/13/2012
  • Pages: 291
  • Sales rank: 541,112
  • Product dimensions: 5.20 (w) x 8.00 (h) x 0.90 (d)

Meet the Author

LYNNE COX has set records all over the world for open-water swimming. She was named a Los Angeles Times Woman of the Year, inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame, and honored with a lifetime achievement award from the University of California, Santa Barbara. She is the author of Swimming to Antarctica , which won an Alex Award. She lives in Los Alamitos, California.

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Read an Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

Siberia and U-2

The nose of the Aeroflot TU-154 aircraft parted long feathery white strands of stratus clouds that whorled past the cockpit, the captain continued his descent, and suddenly, the whole world opened below. An ancient Siberian taiga, a forest dark and dense with fir, spruce, larch, and pine, rose on craggy hilltops and descended deep into shadowed valleys.

Strong shafts of sunlight focused by the clouds lit the groves of Berioska—white birch—and transformed them to yellow flames. The world below suddenly changed, and all the forest was gone; just stumps remained, and death, and naked brown earth, for miles. The earth was eroding quickly into rivers and streams, turning them from clear blue to muddy brown. But on the horizon another evergreen taiga appeared and a sliver of deep lapis blue: Lake Baikal—the deepest lake in the world, four hundred miles long, an average fifty miles wide, one- quarter of the world’s fresh water. This was the blue jewel of Siberia. It was 1988, a year after my Bering Strait swim, which had opened the border between the United States and the Soviet Union. I wanted to swim Lake Baikal. I had no idea how much the Soviets appreciated my Bering Strait crossing or the upcoming Lake Baikal swim until we landed in Moscow and later in Siberia. There were crowds and press everywhere, and people recognized us on the streets. We were told when we reached Irkutsk that the Siberians had been waiting for a group of famous Americans to visit them ever since the time of President Eisenhower. They had constructed new roads for his visit, and a new hotel, but when the U-2 incident occurred, when the U.S. spy plane piloted by Gary Powers was shot down over the Soviet Union in 1960, President Eisenhower was no longer welcome. The relations between the United States and the Soviet Union disintegrated, and the cold war grew colder and grimmer. But our Soviet hosts told us things had changed. We were the group of Americans that the Siberians had long been waiting for.

Our Siberian officials arranged tours of cities, took us to basketball games and other special events, and fêted us at dinners and church celebrations. After flying through thirteen time zones, and two days of constant motion, we were weary, and my focus needed to be on the upcoming swim: planning it out, figuring out the currents, and talking to the local pilot so we could work together. I would be swimming in three days. That wasn’t much time to recover or figure out the course of a swim.

Early one morning, before anyone was awake, I slipped out a back door, and went for a long walk along Lake Baikal’s shores. I climbed down some boulders, to the Angara River. This was the only river that flowed out of the lake, and here the currents were strong, the water flowed fast, probably three or four knots. I studied the movement of the water as it flowed along the shore. It was like one massive drain out of a swimming pool. If we got caught in that, we’d move out with the river. We would need to keep a distance of a mile or two, or I’d never make it across the lake.

A Siberian woman with high Slavic cheekbones and tanned skin, probably in her seventies, wearing a bright scarf on her head, a blue jacket, and a skirt well below her knees, scrambled across a quarter mile of river rocks. She stood up excitedly and waved. Holding her hand was a young man who looked like her son. He was taller and leaner, but he had the same blue eyes, the same nose, and the same-shaped smile.

When they reached me, she was barely out of breath. She immediately said that she had been waiting for me. Her son translated my English for her. He had studied it in school as a child, and he had never used it before to speak to an American. He was very excited. The elderly woman said she had a dream the night before that we would meet on the Angara River. She was so excited. Her blue eyes were full of light. She told me that I was welcome there. And then she said something I didn’t understand. She said that I was like George Washington De Long, an American hero to all of Siberia.

I had never heard of George Washington De Long before. I was perplexed. Maybe I misunderstood. Did she maybe mean to say George Washington? I asked.

No, Captain George Washington De Long. Hadn’t I heard of him? The man translated. He seemed very disappointed. But his mother put on a smile and said that I was welcome there, and welcome to join them anytime at their home.

With all that happened during the next days, and all the political challenges, and the swim across Lake Baikal, which was moved up a day and was completely successful, I forgot this conversation. It faded deep into memory, but one day when I was reading about Roald Amundsen, drawing inspiration from his life, and from the lives of other polar explorers, I kept seeing references to a ship called Jeannette. Finally I decided I needed to know more about the ship and saw that the ship’s captain was George Washington De Long. He was Amundsen’s inspiration and was one of the very first polar explorers. I had to find out about Captain George Washington De Long to understand Amundsen’s path and to gain inspiration and direction for

my own.

CHAPTER 2

North

On the soft foggy gray horizon of San Francisco Bay, a brown dot bounced on navy blue waters. The dot grew in size and became the form of a ship—the USS Jeannette. She plied through the rough, salty, white- capped waters on an epic journey.

It was July 8, 1879, and Lieutenant Commander George Washington De Long and his crew were attempting a historic voyage to become the first expedition to reach the North Pole via the Bering Strait.

De Long stood at the helm dressed in full navy uniform with Emma, his wife, beside him on the bridge. His sky blue eyes behind round eyeglasses scanned the water; the colorful escort boats ablaze with signal flags and masthead flags accompanied him as he sailed past Alcatraz Island and toward the distant headlands of San Francisco Bay. The hum of the Jeannette’s engines vibrated through the De Longs as they steamed west together.

George and Emma had met in France, and he had fallen in love with her immediately. But she had another commitment, to a young man who was dying. George wrote to her and waited for her and, when her friend passed, convinced her that he loved her. Emma’s father set up conditions. He insisted that they stay apart and out of communication for two years, and if after that time they still felt the same, he would permit them to be together. They had endured and married and now had a young daughter, Sylvie.

More than anything, Emma wanted to sail with George. She had worked alongside him lobbying the U.S. Navy and James Gordon Bennett, a New York newspaper publisher—and owner of the Jeannette—and President Rutherford Hayes to provide the support to refit the Jeannette and fund this expedition.

Lieutenant Commander De Long, and the thirty-two-man crew of the USS Jeannette, a 420-ton bark-rigged wooden steamship, were attempting to become the first American ship to reach the North Pole through the rough waters of the Bering Strait. This journey was meant to be one of exploration, of scientific research, and of discovery, for in 1879 sailing north into Arctic waters toward the North Pole was like flying to another galaxy.

Thousands of people from all over the Bay Area came to see the Jeannette off. It was a day to celebrate the possibility of solving one of the world’s great puzzles, of reaching the North Pole, and of making great discoveries. The jubilant San Franciscans lined the waterfront. They stood on wide wooden piers, along the curve of Market Street, on top of Telegraph Hill. They lifted children on their shoulders so they could see above the heads in the crowd. They stretched their necks to catch sight of the Jeannette. As she sailed past, they cheered wildly, dogs barked excitedly, and roar upon roar rose from the crowd that followed the Jeannette along with a great wave of humanity on foot, bikes, and in horse-drawn carriages, as she headed west.

The Jeannette passed what would one day become major San Francisco landmarks: Alioto’s and Capurro’s restaurants and the Argonaut Hotel. She powered by what would become the South End Rowing Club and the Dolphin Club, and the Buena Vista Café and Ghirardelli Square. She sailed past what would become the beautiful St. Francis Yacht Club, and the exquisite Palace of Fine Arts Theater and the Exploratorium. She slipped toward what would become the majestic spans of the Golden Gate Bridge and the entrance to San Francisco Bay.

Cool moist gusts of wind funneled through brown bone-dry hills above San Francisco and pushed the bay into two-foot-high waves. Boats of all sizes—tugs, launches, fishing boats still smelling like fish from the morning catch, and yachts all decked out with brightly colored flags and banners from the San Francisco Yacht Club—steered toward the Jeannette. People on the boats sounded the ships’ horns and blasted the whistles. They clapped, waved, cheered, and shouted “Good luck” as the Jeannette sailed near the Presidio and Fort Mason, where the U.S. Army honored the captain and crew of the Jeannette by firing off a farewell salute.

Bound for the north, into unexplored waters and lands that were mostly uncharted, with almost complete uncertainty about what lay ahead, the Jeannette was loaded to the gunwales with provisions, coal, and supplies in case the worst happened and the ship was lost, and the crew had to take to shore and somehow survive.

The Jeannette sailed with her hull low in the water. She lumbered almost painfully toward the entrance to the Pacific. Her own construction made her heavy. She had been reinforced with thick oak timbers and strong iron transverse beams that were meant to protect her from the deadly pressure of the sea ice in the Arctic waters. The sea ice was something the Jeannette would most likely encounter on her way to the North Pole.

The movement of this sea ice was unpredictable, frightening, and could be deadly. It snared sealing ships and whaling fleets and like an anaconda squeezed the life out of ships and sent them down to the ocean depths.

Shortly before Lieutenant Commander De Long left the port of San Francisco, he was given a new set of orders. Baron Nils Nordenskjöld— the Finnish-born Swedish scientist, geologist, and explorer—had been sailing his ship, the Vega, along the northern edges of the Siberian coast, in an attempt to become the first person to find the Northeast Passage.

Finding the Northeast Passage would open new ocean freeways to the world. If Nordenskjöld succeeded, he would discover a more direct sea route from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean, a route that would increase world trade and open the world to further exploration and understanding. But it had been months since anyone had heard from Nordenskjöld.

It was feared that his ship was locked in the sea ice or that it had been sunk. De Long was ordered by the U.S. Navy to alter his course. Instead of heading directly north through the Bering Strait bound for the Arctic Ocean and North Pole, De Long would first search for Nordenskjöld and, if he found him, come to the aid of him and his crew.

This change wasn’t what De Long wanted; he knew that the delay could disrupt all of his plans, plans he had worked so hard on for many years, and with the shortness of the summer season in the Arctic, the delay would increase the Jeannette’s chances of being caught in the dangerous ice and diminish their chances of reaching the North Pole. But it was his duty to help Nordenskjöld. That was what happened in those days. When ships were late returning to port, especially in waters known to be dangerous, other ships and crews were sent out to search for and rescue them.

On board the Jeannette, Emma De Long stood near the helm and watched her husband. Emma had helped him reach this point. She had done everything she could to help him. She had rallied and convinced politicians, and James Gordon Bennett Jr., the publisher of the New York Herald, to support this venture, and she realized De Long could succeed in reaching the North Pole, as he had dreamed of, or they could die.

The Jeannette rocked and heaved between the north and south headlands. Emma and George De Long climbed down from the ship into a small boat.

The boat carried them to a yacht, one that would receive Emma and transport her back to the harbor. When George said good-bye to Emma, she threw her arms around his neck, and she kissed him good-bye.

Her act completely startled George. Until that moment George hadn’t fully realized what was happening. Emma would not be beside him as she had been for all of those days they had worked on and planned this project together. He had been so immersed in the worries of the day, this realization had completely escaped him. George was stunned.

They parted. Emma climbed aboard the yacht, and George took the small boat back to the Jeannette. The vessels were beside each other, but facing in opposite directions.

They waved good-bye and they continued waving to each other until George and Emma blended into the two different dark gray horizons.

As the Jeannette entered the Pacific Ocean, the air grew saltier, and the wind whipped the waves into reeling and rolling crests that slammed into the sides of the ship and tossed her like a toy boat to and fro. The crew was becoming seasick. Their faces first turned white, and as the waves grew to three and four feet high, and the Jeannette rolled and spun, their faces turned a grayish green.

De Long was worried. The ship was sailing so low in the water that waves were breaking over the gunwales, and sheets of water were washing across the deck. He feared that the Jeannette would capsize and toss everyone into the Pacific Ocean.

De Long turned the Jeannette into the waves, so she would cut across the wave top at an angle, and this he hoped would prevent the Jeannette from being rolled over by incoming waves.

The weather did not improve, and De Long and his crew suffered as they sailed slowly all the way north along the California coast, north past Oregon, and north beyond Washington.

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Table of Contents

Map of the Arctic ii

List of Illustrations xiii

Acknowledgments xvii

Preface 3

1 Siberia and U-2 5

2 North 8

3 Nansen Returns 20

4 Amundsen's Inspiration 31

5 Caves of Death 46

6 Belgica 50

7 Leaving Norway 62

8 Greenland Shark 67

9 Greenland East and West 75

10 Ilulissat 84

11 Coolest Crossing 103

12 Baffin Island 120

13 King William Island 142

14 Cambridge Bay 153

15 South Pole 164

16 The Heroic Dogs 169

17 Darkness and Light 181

18 Flying Boats 185

19 Amundsen and Byrd 188

20 Navigating 206

21 Antarctic Aviation 213

22 Parallel Planes 225

23 Discovering Greatness 231

24 AGAP 245

Afterword 265

Sources 277

Index 279

Map of the Antarctic 294

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Sort by: Showing all of 4 Customer Reviews
  • Posted February 28, 2012

    Bait and Switch.

    This book purports to be about arctic exploration, but quickly devolves into a not very interesting narrative about the author's personal long distance swims. I never did figure out what any of that had to do with Raoul Amundsen.

    This one needed some serious editing, I'm glad I got it at the library.

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  • Posted December 17, 2011

    fascinating on many levels.

    As a novice swimmer I was delighted to read of the experienced swimmer's ideas on flotation and balance in the water. Her ideas of Amundsen carried to lesser known areas of his career, namely the North Pole and North east/west passages. She has a kindly imagination and seems respected by those she meets.

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  • Anonymous

    Posted September 28, 2011

    No text was provided for this review.

  • Anonymous

    Posted October 15, 2011

    No text was provided for this review.

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