Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing / Edition 1

Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing / Edition 1

by Tony Butt, Paul Russell
     
 

In its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point to view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves. See more details below

Overview

In its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point to view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves.

Product Details

ISBN-13:
9780824828912
Publisher:
University of Hawaii Press, The
Publication date:
07/28/2004
Series:
Latitude 20 Bks.
Edition description:
New Edition
Pages:
144
Product dimensions:
9.68(w) x 7.64(h) x 0.51(d)

Table of Contents

1The paradox of impossible knowledge9
2Large-scale weather patterns15
3The formation of a depression24
4The growth of waves on the ocean32
5Propagation of free-travelling swell39
6Refraction50
7Wave-breaking60
8How waves move sediment68
9Surfing in the storm77
10Local winds on the coast86
11The temperature of the water95
12The tides101
13World wave climate112
14Forecasting the waves121

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