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Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing / Edition 1

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Overview

In its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point to view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780824828912
  • Publisher: University of Hawaii Press, The
  • Publication date: 7/28/2004
  • Series: Latitude 20 Bks.
  • Edition description: New Edition
  • Edition number: 1
  • Pages: 144
  • Product dimensions: 9.68 (w) x 7.64 (h) x 0.51 (d)

Table of Contents

1 The paradox of impossible knowledge 9
2 Large-scale weather patterns 15
3 The formation of a depression 24
4 The growth of waves on the ocean 32
5 Propagation of free-travelling swell 39
6 Refraction 50
7 Wave-breaking 60
8 How waves move sediment 68
9 Surfing in the storm 77
10 Local winds on the coast 86
11 The temperature of the water 95
12 The tides 101
13 World wave climate 112
14 Forecasting the waves 121
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  • Posted March 10, 2010

    A good read for any surfer - novice or pro

    I just finished this book, and thought it was excellent. I am a novice surfer, and I really wanted to know more about waves. This book gave an indepth, yet simple, explanation of how waves are formed and the elements that influence them, e.g. tides, winds, inter alia. Naturally, wave formation can be quite complex and certainly difficult to predict, but I feel that the basics learned from the book have given me a solid foundation in which to further my understanding on my own. The book has certainly given me plenty to think about while I am sitting on my board waiting for waves at the local surf spot. This book would also be an excellent text for any first-year university class on Oceanography.

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