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Overview
"Out of the water, I am nothing.”
—Duke Kahanamoku
"All I need are some tasty waves and a cool buzz and I’m fine.”
—Jeff Spicoli
All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole philosophy of life.
In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life—or at least an enjoyable read! With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, this book explains the meaning of life as only ...