Surfing: An Illustrated History of the Coolest Sport of All Time

Overview

Surfing enthusiast Ben Marcus takes you as close to the waves as you can get without hitting the beach.

Surfing is more than just a sport; it is a cultural phenomenon. From its mystical beginnings in Polynesia, surfing has evolved into a worldwide passion, establishing its own roster of legends and seeping into our society—in movies, in fashion, in music, and in language. Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, the “father of surfing,” helped elevate the sport beyond its Pacific Islands ...

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Overview

Surfing enthusiast Ben Marcus takes you as close to the waves as you can get without hitting the beach.

Surfing is more than just a sport; it is a cultural phenomenon. From its mystical beginnings in Polynesia, surfing has evolved into a worldwide passion, establishing its own roster of legends and seeping into our society—in movies, in fashion, in music, and in language. Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, the “father of surfing,” helped elevate the sport beyond its Pacific Islands origins more than a century ago, and his torch has been carried on by a long line of surf heroes: Woody Brown, Mickey Dora, Laird Hamilton, Kelly Slater, and many, many others.

During the 1950s and 1960s, surf culture and fashion exploded into movies and music. “Gidget,” the Beach Boys, and even Elvis Presley exposed surfing to the masses, and decades later, the sport and its proponents remain fixtures in pop culture and the media. Yet, through the years, surfing has maintained its reputation as a refuge for non-conformists; its often below-the-radar individualistic lifestyle defies a dry chronicle neatly tied up with a bow.

In this comprehensive history of surfing, author Ben Marcus captures the glamour and excitement of this extreme sport. If you are still in awe of that first surfboard, still stoked by hanging ten, or still dreaming of that elusive wave, then this book is for you. Surfing: An Illustrated History of the Coolest Sport of All Time brings you up close and personal to the exciting world of surfing.

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780760344514
  • Publisher: MVP Books
  • Publication date: 3/5/2013
  • Pages: 208
  • Sales rank: 956,546
  • Product dimensions: 9.10 (w) x 10.70 (h) x 0.70 (d)

Meet the Author

Duke Boyd is himself a legend of surfing. He is a surfer, of course, but even better known as co-founder in 1962 of Hang Ten surfwear, the first surfwear clothing line. He lives in Hawai'i.Jeff Divine (San Clemente, CA) is himself a legendary surfing photographer. He is the photo editor at The Surfer's Journal.

Ben Marcus is a surfer and skateboarder for life. He was Surfer magazine associate editor and still writes for Surfer, The Surfer's Journal, and others. He's the author of our The Surfboard, Surfing USA!, Surfing & the Meaning of Life, and The Surfer's Handbook. He lives in Malibu, of course. www.benmarcusrules.com

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Table of Contents

Foreword 19

Chapter 1 Catching the First Waves
From Polynesia with Love • The Dawn of Time to 1940

Chapter 2 From Here to Honolulu
Discovering the Secrets of the Sea • The World War II Years

Chapter 3 The Golden Years
From the Fall of Hitler to the Rise of Gidget • 1946 to 1959

Chapter 4 The Surfer Stomp
A Rock’n’Roll Soundtrack to the Waves • 1959 to 1967

Chapter 5 Blue Screen
Hollywood Exploits Surfing—and Vice Versa • The 1920s to Today

Chapter 6 Going Vertical
The Parallel Ascent of Kelly Slater and the Surf Industrial Complex • The 1980s and 1990s

Chapter 7 The Sport of Queens
Gidget Kicks Ass • From Ancient Hawai’i to Blue Crush and Beyond

Chapter 8 Monster
Surfing’s Twenty-First-Century Man • The 1990s to Today

Epilogue: Something Wild
The Wave of Surf Culture • Through the Centuries

Acknowledgments and Sources
Index 206
About the Author 208

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