First Chapter

Suzy Gershman's Born to Shop New York

John Wiley & Sons

Chapter One

DIRECTIONALLY SPEAKING

There is no other city in the world that I know of where the parts of town depend on where you're standing. There is no center of town called "downtown" in New York. Downtown is down from where you are standing, unless you are in the river below the bottom of the island, and then it's all uptown.

Since this is all so arbitrary, I create a few random map boundaries in these pages. This is especially important to do now that downtown Manhattan has become so vital to the new shopping scene. Therefore, I decree 34th Street the divider between uptown and downtown. (For the downtown chapter of this book, see p. 123.) Fifth Avenue has always been the divider between east and west. In this edition, uptown neighborhoods for the East Side and West Side are in two different chapters, followed by a chapter about downtown.

The extensive listings in these three chapters are here because I believe that sometimes the best way to shop is to head for a general destination and let your feet do the wandering. I have included some lunch possibilities here, although there is another section on restaurants in chapter 4.

WEST 34TH STREET

The West 34th Street neighborhood is actually a zigzag stretching from Penn Station (betweenSeventh and Eighth aves.) to Fifth Avenue by way of a lot of shopping real estate-much of it new and improved. The addition of Kmart, right near Penn Station, has extended the shopping district and given everyone a place for one-stop shopping. But the real energy comes from Old Navy, across the street from Macy's, and a branch of H&M, also across from Macy's. There is also a branch of Daffy's (one of New York's most famous off-pricers-although this is not my favorite branch), Gap, and a big Banana Republic. Victoria's Secret is on the corner of 34th Street. Conway-another off-pricer-has several stores dotted around here. Conway is down-market, but I have fun there. You may not.

Remember that just because a lot of this area has been revitalized, it's still not Fifth Avenue. In fact, this area is far from chic. It's practical. To get the most out of this area, you really have to consider the Garment District, Lord & Taylor (Fifth Ave., at 38th St.), and the row of stores south of Lord & Taylor on Fifth (until about 34th St.), as part of the neighborhood.

There are a few street vendors and stalls around here-many sell fake designer perfumes or big-name perfumes bought in the Caribbean. Let the buyer beware. Postcards in this part of town go 10 for $1-a good buy.

EATS: The department stores each have several choices for lunch-if you decide to dine in one of them, go before or after the usual lunch hour to avoid crowds. There's also a 1950s-style diner downstairs in the Old Navy store.

TRANSPORTATION: You can take the A, C, E, 1, 2, 3, or 9 train to 34th Street/Penn Station, or the B, D, F, V, Q, W, R, or N to 34th Street/Herald Square.

Kmart 1 Penn Plaza, 34th St., at Seventh Ave.

Maybe Kmart isn't your idea of a find, but if you live in New York, this discount drugstore-and-more is a godsend. I'll just list the store's hours so that you know you can shop when most other stores are closed: Monday through Friday 8am to 9pm, Saturday 10am to 9pm, and Sunday 11am to 8pm. The pharmacy is closed on Sunday.

Old Navy 150 W. 34th St., between Broadway and Seventh Ave.

This is the Old Navy flagship in Manhattan, and all I can say is "wow." The store is huge, with tons of energy, displays, and doodads that make it almost a science museum. There's a Joe's Diner in the basement, but I was not impressed with my meal there. This is retail-entertainment at its finest. See p. 192 for more about the Old Navy brand.

THE GARMENT DISTRICT

The Garment District is the name of a neighborhood on the west side of Manhattan where most, but not all, of the needle trades have their showrooms, offices, and sometimes, cutting rooms. Although the different kinds of garments are clustered in different parts of the Garment District, the main area, where you'll see the racks whizzing by with their dozens of brand-new fashions, is on Seventh Avenue around 40th Street. Incidentally, Seventh Avenue in the Garment District was officially renamed Fashion Avenue in 1972 and signs to that effect have been duly posted, but I don't know anyone who calls this Fashion Avenue. Broadway bisects Sixth Avenue at 34th Street, so this part of Broadway, which is very close to Seventh Avenue, also houses much of the trade. Many buildings have two different entrances (and sometimes two different addresses): one on Broadway and one on Seventh Avenue.

The best thing about the Garment District is that it is different things to different people: Some salivate, others shudder. For the person who has fabric in the blood, the Garment District is one of the most exciting places on earth-the hustle and bustle of the pipe racks, the screaming and swearing of the workers, the unglamorous workrooms contrasted with glamorous showrooms, the part-Yiddish way of speaking-all send shivers of ecstasy up the spine. To others, these very same conditions are the cause for severe headaches, stomachaches, nausea, and bad nerves.

Some people like to wander around the Garment District buildings on a Saturday to see what vibes (and bargains) they can pick up. The big Broadway buildings (1407 and 1411) are totally locked up, but the smaller buildings have one elevator operator on duty who will take you to a specific floor for an appointment. A note to the crafty: These elevator operators are savvy professionals; they can spot a tourist a mile away. Don't try to fool them. Simply ask if any of the showrooms do business on Saturday. Many sample sales are posted on the elevator or building doors in the lobby; doormen and elevator operators know everything.

If you're not keen on wandering around this area blindly, get a copy of the Sales & Bargains newsletter, which lists sample sales, many of which are in the area. See p. 326 for more information.

Note: The Fur District is adjacent to the Garment Center, further downtown. The streets around 30th Street and Seventh Avenue house small mom-and-pop furriers and suppliers as well as a few skyscrapers packed with showrooms.

Duty Free Apparel 204 W. 35th St., between Seventh and Eighth aves.

This place is sometimes called "Sample Sale." It's not a real sample sale, but instead a store that concentrates on Italian brands and designers, and sells to the Italian-visitors market. The hours are a bit unusual, so note: They are closed on weekends except during the Christmas shopping season and are also closed on Monday, so the hours are Tuesday through Friday 10am to 6pm. There are new arrivals (men's and women's) each week.

WEST 42ND STREET

The block of 42nd Street just west of Fifth Avenue is not glam, but because one of Manhattan's best bookstores has moved here, and because fashion shows are held in Bryant Park, across the street, it's an area to think about passing through. During Fashion Week, usually held in September and February, there are often hostesses on the street who hand out free magazines or even products and samples.

Columbus Books 11 W. 42nd St., between Fifth and Sixth aves.

This is my favorite bookstore in Manhattan, so I am thrilled that they resurfaced after closing on West 57th Street. This is one of the few independent bookstores left, and they offer many specialized customer services and an enormous selection of books. You are more likely to find unusual titles or small publishers represented here than at the big chains.

TIMES SQUARE

I wish I could tell you that the new Times Square is a must-do neighborhood and a shopper's heaven (or haven). However, though the area has gone through an enormous cleanup (those sex shows and girlie joints are on the way out) and has been vastly improved, this is still not a shopper's paradise. The electronics stores remind me of the ones they have in Hong Kong and make me fearful. Some of the tourist kitsch is fun to giggle over, and there are a lot of fast-food places, movie theaters, legit theaters (of course), and some Broadway souvenirs, but mostly this is an area that is far from classy. You'll find the Disney Store, Sephora, and Virgin Megastore, as well as a group of snazzy hotels, and even the new Condé Nast Building. McDonald's has a branch with their sign in the form of a flashing Broadway marquis. As I said, all of these attractions are cute, but this area is more for staring at (or perhaps blinking at, due to the glare of all that neon), than for serious shopping.

EATS: Because there are so many offices in this area, and so many visitors, there's every imaginable type of cuisine at any price (especially overpriced). I am amused by the McDonald's with the marquis on West 42nd itself; I also think it's funny that Red Lobster came from suburbia to open on the edge of Times Square. Those going to the theater who have a little scratch to spend on lunch often prefer the side streets around Sixth Avenue, especially on West 44th and 45th streets, where there are plenty of really nice, trendy restaurants, many of them in hotels.

TRANSPORTATION: Take the 1, 2, 3, 9, N, R, W, Q, S, or 7 to Times Square.

ESPN Zone 4 Times Sq. Broadway, near 42nd St.

This place is so incredible that I just had to include it, especially for you guys. ESPN Zone is run by Disney and is a sports-entertainment center with food, games, large screens for watching sports, and retail.

Times Square Visitors Center 1560 Broadway, at 47th St.

This is a good source for information, booking services, MetroCards, maps, and so on. One-stop shopping for the basic visitor needs.

TKTS Broadway, at W. 47th St.

I tell you about this with a heavy heart, as I hate to see you spend precious New York time in the line.... On the other hand, bargains are bargains, so here goes: This is a discount booth that sells same-day half-price theater tickets. The booth, which is sort of a hut, is in the middle of Duffy Square. They only take cash or traveler's checks, no plastic.

Toys "R" Us 1514 Broadway, at 45th St.

If you are interested in retail as theater, check out this amazing branch of the toy retailer. They ain't got one like this back home.

THE THEATER DISTRICT

The Theater District is a subset of Times Square, located in the area from West 42nd Street to West 52nd Street, usually west of Seventh Avenue. I mention it because there is a small amount of specialty retail. Most Broadway productions have their own merchandise, which is sold in the lobby of the theater: This is "you've seen the play now wear the T-shirt" kind of stuff. There are a few good sources for theater souvenirs or theater-related merchandise, as well as the usual TTs (Tourist Traps) with souvenirs-both kinds are mostly on Broadway.

TRANSPORTATION: Take the 1, 2, 3, 9, N, R, W, Q, S, or 7 to Times Square or the 1, 9, N, R, or W to 49th Street.

Colony Music 1619 Broadway, at 49th St.

Musical scores, sheet music, CDs, posters, and other print materials-be still my heart. You can go nuts here. Also, they are open late for after-theater browsing.

Drama Bookshop 250 W. 40th St., between Seventh and Eighth aves.

This place has a complete selection of plays and theater-related publications.

Manny's 156 W. 54th St., between Fifth and Sixth aves.

This is a musician's source for instruments and supplies such as strings. Not to be confused with shoe-guru Manolo Blahnik.

ROCKEFELLER CENTER

On the west side of Fifth Avenue you have everything from the new Faconnable to the somewhat new Anne Fontaine. The promenade leading to the skating rink has specialty bookstores, chocolate shops, and a branch of Brookstone.

TRANSPORTATION: Take the B, D, F, or V trains to Rockefeller Center.

WEST 57TH STREET

No visit to New York is complete without worshipping at the corners of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street-all four of them. Even if you don't buy anything, between the window-shopping and the crowd-staring, this is what you came for.

The block between Fifth Avenue and Avenue of the Americas (Sixth Ave.) on West 57th Street has all sorts of retail. Italian hotshots such as Bulgari and Laura Biagiotti show no sign of being disappointed with the location, and there's a Club Monaco and the British luxury stationery retailer Smythson. Quite a creative mix of stores.

Closer to Sixth Avenue, there's off-pricer Bolton's and the drug store chain Duane Reade. A branch of Staples, the office-supply giant, is on the corner of Sixth Avenue. For cheapie teen clothes and copies of runway looks, don't miss Strawberry, part of a large chain, next door to McDonald's at the Sixth Avenue end. The feel of the street changes as you head west, but there is some very interesting retail around Seventh Avenue, so explore.

EATS: Bergdorf's, of course (p. 74).

TRANSPORTATION: Take the F to 57th Street, or the N, R, or W to 5th Avenue at 59th Street.

Ascot Chang 7 W. 57th St., between Fifth and Sixth aves.

This Hong Kong shirt maker to the rich and famous creates custom-made shirts here for about $75 per shirt.

Club Monaco 8 W. 57th St., between Fifth and Sixth aves.

Owned by Ralph Lauren, this place is good for people who like chic basics or who wear black all the time. There's a makeup line too.

Kate's Paperie 140 W. 57th St., between Sixth and Seventh aves.

See p. 142 for details on this fabulous paper store.

Omo Norma Kamali 11 W. 56th St., between Fifth and Sixth aves.

Even though this store is not officially on 57th Street, it fits in with the whole vibe of the street. Sparkly silver flags are usually flying at the doorposts of this home of hip, where the very inventive Ms. Kamali has held court since moving from East 62nd Street. This is cutting-edge chic for those who like clothes that are very unique, from Indian saris to reflective Lycra sportswear.

COLUMBUS CIRCLE

Oh me! Oh my! What a difference a decade makes. This neighborhood has been born again and is now the hottest place in town, home to many big-time restaurants and hotshot chefs and a new high-rise.

Continues...

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Excerpted from Suzy Gershman's Born to Shop New York by Suzy Gershman Excerpted by permission.
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