Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America [NOOK Book]

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Overview


Nationally syndicated columnist and bestselling author of ¡Ask a Mexican! Gustavo Arellano presents an entertaining, tasty trip through the history and culture of Mexican food in this country, uncovering great stories and charting the cuisine’s tremendous popularity in el Norte. In the tradition of Bill Buford’s Heat and Calvin Trillin’s The Tummy Trilogy, Arellano’s fascinating narrative combines history, cultural criticism, personal anecdotes, and Jesus on a tortilla.

When salsa overtook ketchup as this country’s favorite condiment in the 1990s, America’s century-long love affair with Mexican food reached yet another milestone. In seemingly every ...

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Overview


Nationally syndicated columnist and bestselling author of ¡Ask a Mexican! Gustavo Arellano presents an entertaining, tasty trip through the history and culture of Mexican food in this country, uncovering great stories and charting the cuisine’s tremendous popularity in el Norte. In the tradition of Bill Buford’s Heat and Calvin Trillin’s The Tummy Trilogy, Arellano’s fascinating narrative combines history, cultural criticism, personal anecdotes, and Jesus on a tortilla.

When salsa overtook ketchup as this country’s favorite condiment in the 1990s, America’s century-long love affair with Mexican food reached yet another milestone. In seemingly every decade since the 1880s, America has tried new food trends from south of the border—chili, tamales, tacos, enchiladas, tequila, bacon-wrapped hot dogs, and so many more—loved them, and demanded the next great thing. As a result, Mexican food dominates American palates to the tune of billions of dollars in sales per year, from canned refried beans to frozen margaritas and ballpark nachos. It’s a little-known history, one that’s crept up on this country like your Mexican neighbors—and left us better for it.

Now, Taco USA addresses the all-important questions: What exactly constitutes “Mexican” food in the United States? How did it get here? What’s “authentic” and what’s “Taco Bell,” and does it matter? What’s so cosmic about a burrito? And why do Americans love Mexican food so darn much?

Tacos, alas, sold separately.

Editorial Reviews

Publishers Weekly
In this entertaining nod to culinary and cultural histories, journalist Arellano (¡Ask a Mexican!) traces the roots of Mexican food in the U.S. and explores the cuisine’s many offshoots, underscoring why salsa is now our #1 condiment. Knowing it’s impossible to pinpoint the birth of the world’s first taco, Arellano focuses instead on how the phenomenon of something so simple as a crispy or soft tortilla folded over fillings came across the border. Beginning as street food in California in the 1920s—much later than the introduction of chili and tamales in both California and Texas—tacos gained popularity as inventions cropped up to fry large numbers of shells at once for mass production. It paved the way for Glen Bell, founder of Taco Bell, who began his empire in San Bernadino, Calif., in 1951, where he also sold hamburgers and hot dogs in case the taco craze didn’t catch on. It did, and today there are more than 5,800 Taco Bells worldwide. Arellano makes the point, one that’s particularly relevant in today’s heated immigration debate, that as much as some Americans may protest Mexican immigrants, they’re in love with Mexican food. While he’s clear that no best-of list can encompass all the great places to eat tacos and burritos in America, Arellano’s top five (El Rancho Grande in Tulsa, Okla., for example) illustrates just how far from the border the craze has traveled. (Apr.)
Library Journal
Salsa has overtaken ketchup in sales, and Mexican restaurants proliferate around the country. This may not seem surprising given the growing population of Mexican-Americans, but the cuisine crossed over long ago. Arellano, a nationally syndicated columnist, delves through over a century of the cuisine's history to tease out the story of its rise to ubiquity. He eschews a strictly orthodox view of "authentic" Mexican cuisine, instead embracing the broad range of regional variations that have sprung up. The book is fearless, dismissing some high-profile chefs and restaurants while celebrating the contributions of hole-in-the-wall businesses. The writing, lively and witty (if occasionally prickly), proves to be interesting and revelatory as well. VERDICT A compelling, well-written exploration of a major part of American dining. Recommended for academic libraries and public libraries with regional interest in the topic.—Peter Hepburn, Univ. of Illinois at Chicago
Kirkus Reviews
An appealing cultural exploration of Mexican food in the United States. Part history, part social commentary, Arellano's (Orange County: A Personal History, 2008, etc.) comprehensive narrative will certainly whet the appetite of readers, as he chronicles how Mexican food products moved across the border and into American homes, restaurants and grocery stores. The author discusses tamales sold on the street corners of Chicago, canned tortillas and the first frozen-margarita machine, now ensconced in the Smithsonian. He examines the advent of the Mexican restaurant and the rise of Taco Bell, Chi-Chi's and other chains, chili con carne cook-offs and the difference between Tex-Mex and true Mexican food. Arellano explains the history behind bottled salsa and the idea that the product is the "top-selling condiment in this country, even more than ketchup. It's partly true: salsa does bring in more revenue for companies than ketchup…but [in 2007] ketchup moved more units." Readers travel along with the author as he explores the rise of Mexican cookbooks, most written by non-Mexicans, the author's five favorite Mexican meals in the United States and the search for "authentic" Mexican food. Because Mexican food is so ubiquitous--from restaurant menus to grocery-store shelves--Arellano writes, "the purpose of this book is not just to cover a cuisine whose history barely registers into the official American story, but to make ustedes hungry. I want not only to make you desire Mexican food, but also to understand it, to appreciate it further." Mission accomplished. Readers will come away not only hungry, but with a deeper understanding of the Mexican people and their cuisine.

Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781439157657
  • Publisher: Scribner
  • Publication date: 4/10/2012
  • Sold by: SIMON & SCHUSTER
  • Format: eBook
  • Pages: 320
  • Sales rank: 82,092
  • File size: 3 MB

Meet the Author

Gustavo Arellano

Gustavo Arellano’s ¡Ask a Mexican! column has a circulation of more than two million in thirty-eight markets (and counting). He has received the President’s Award from the Los Angeles Press Club, an Impact Award from the National Hispanic Media Coalition, and a 2008 Latino Spirit Award from the California State legislature. Arellano has appeared on the Today show, Nightline, NPR’s Talk of the Nation, and The Colbert Report. For more information, visit AskAMexican.net.

Table of Contents

Introduction: What's So Cosmic About a Burrito? 1

Chapter 1 You Mean Mexico Gave the World More Than Just Tacos? 11

Chapter 2 Whatever Happened to the Chili Queens and Tamale Kings? 29

Chapter 3 How Did the Taco Become Popular Before Mexicans Flooded the United States? 50

Chapter 4 Who Were the Enchilada Millionaires, and How Did They Change Mexican Food? 71

Chapter 5 How Did Americans Become Experts at Writing Cookbooks on Mexican Food? 86

Chapter 6 Whatever Happened to Southwestern Cuisine? 108

Chapter 7 Is Tex-Mex Food Doomed? 122

Chapter 8 What Took the Burrito So Long to Become Popular? 139

Chapter 9 When Did Mexicans Start Making Food for Mexicans? 157

Chapter 10 How Did Mexican Food Get into Our Supermarkets? 175

Chapter 11 Is the Tortilla God's Favored Method of Communication? 195

Chapter 12 How Did Salsa Become America's Top-Selling Condiment? 215

Chapter 13 Tequila? Tequila! 230

Chapter 14 What Are the Five Greatest Mexican Meals in the United States? 245

Conclusion What Happens After the Burrito Has Gone Cosmic? 265

Postscript Special "Ask a Mexican!" Question: How and why did the image of a sleeping Mexican under a saguaro cactus become such a popular mascot for Mexican restaurants? 271

Notes 275

Acknowledgments 289

Index 291

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