The Big Juice: Epic Tales of Big Wave Surfingby John Long
The best and newest big-wave surfing stories from the sport's insiders More than a decade ago, John Long published his now classic The Big Drop, an unprecedented look at the larger-than-life frontier of big wave surfing. Since then, the sport has exploded in popularity. The big wave bar keeps rising as extreme surfers continue to seek out, surf, and survive a ride… See more details below
The best and newest big-wave surfing stories from the sport's insiders More than a decade ago, John Long published his now classic The Big Drop, an unprecedented look at the larger-than-life frontier of big wave surfing. Since then, the sport has exploded in popularity. The big wave bar keeps rising as extreme surfers continue to seek out, surf, and survive a ride on the elusive 100-foot wave. The incredible stories of a new generation of thrill-seeking, death-defying surfers and stunning, full-color photography of monster waves fill the pages of this new collection by John Long and former surfing pro Sam George.A powerful, contemporary look at the men and women who live and breathe for the next big wave and the bigger, more dangerous challenge, The Big Juice presents a rich history of characters, controversies, heroism, humor, and tragedy that define the sport. With contributions from:- Ben Marcus, author of The Surfing Handbook and The Art of Stand Up Paddling- Chris Dixon, writer, Surfer magazine- Kimball Taylor, writer, ESPN- Bruce Jenkins, author of North Shore Chronicles; writer, Sports Illustrated- Drew Kampion, former editor of Surfer, Surfing, Wind Surf, and Wind Tracks magazines; author of The Book of Waves: Form and Beauty on the Ocean- James Hollmer-Cross, writer, Surfing magazine . . . and big-wave surfers:- Laird Hamilton- Dave Kalama- Evan Slater- Shane Dorian- Greg Noll- and more
- Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, Inc.
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- Product dimensions:
- 6.00(w) x 9.00(h) x 0.90(d)
Read an Excerpt
The Big JuiceClassic Big Wave Surfing Stories
By Sam George
FalconCopyright © 2011 Sam George
All right reserved.
Fifty years ago, pioneering big-wave surfer Buzzy Trent said, "Big waves are not measured in feet and inches, but in increments of fear.”
Up at Mavericks [one of the best big wave surfing spots in the world, located near northern California], Peter Mel had surfed two amazing waves and was up on his third when it hit an undersea ledge and jacked vertical, sucking the bottom out of the wave. As the six-story wall of water folded and detonated, Mel simply ducked, covered, and prayed. "It was like I was run over by Niagara Falls,” he says. "I thought it was going to tear the limbs off my body.” His partner Ryan Augenstein rushed in and stopped cold. The ocean was so churned, the propeller couldn’t get a grip in the foam - like a car spinning its wheels in snow. As another wave bore down, the jet ski suddenly caught, Mel grabbed the sled and the two shot to safety. "It was one of the most amazing saves I’ve ever seen,” Mel says. At 12:30 a rescue team motored out. A crab boat named Good Guys had foundered, its two fishermen lost to the waves.
Down at Ghost Tree, Anthony Ruffo had tow-surfed into four menacing bombs. Peter Davi was determined to tow into at least one wave on his traditional paddleboard. "I’m 45 years old and I want one of the fucking waves,” he said from the back of Sorensen’s Jet Ski. "Those were the last words I heard him say,” Sorensen says.
Excerpted from The Big Juice by Sam George Copyright © 2011 by Sam George. Excerpted by permission.
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