Big Juice: Epic Tales of Big Wave Surfing

Big Juice: Epic Tales of Big Wave Surfing

by John Long
     
 

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The best and newest big-wave surfing stories from the sport’s insiders

More than a decade ago, John Long published his now classic The Big Drop, an unprecedented look at the larger-than-life frontier of big wave surfing. Since then, the sport has exploded in popularity. The big wave bar keeps rising as extreme surfers continue to seek out,

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Overview

The best and newest big-wave surfing stories from the sport’s insiders

More than a decade ago, John Long published his now classic The Big Drop, an unprecedented look at the larger-than-life frontier of big wave surfing. Since then, the sport has exploded in popularity. The big wave bar keeps rising as extreme surfers continue to seek out, surf, and survive a ride on the elusive 100-foot wave. The incredible stories of a new generation of thrill-seeking, death-defying surfers and stunning, full-color photography of monster waves fill the pages of this new collection by John Long and former surfing pro Sam George.
A powerful, contemporary look at the men and women who live and breathe for the next big wave and the bigger, more dangerous challenge, The Big Juice presents a rich history of characters, controversies, heroism, humor, and tragedy that define the sport. With contributions from:
- Ben Marcus, author of The Surfing Handbook and The Art of Stand Up Paddling
- Chris Dixon, writer, Surfer magazine
- Kimball Taylor, writer, ESPN
- Bruce Jenkins, author of North Shore Chronicles; writer, Sports Illustrated
- Drew Kampion, former editor of Surfer, Surfing, Wind Surf, and Wind Tracks magazines; author of The Book of Waves: Form and Beauty on the Ocean
- James Hollmer-Cross, writer, Surfing magazine . . . and big-wave surfers:
- Laird Hamilton
- Dave Kalama
- Evan Slater
- Shane Dorian
- Greg Noll- and more

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Editorial Reviews

From the Publisher
"Big Juice is a must read for anyone who wants to experience the extreme passion and ultimate terror of riding the world's biggest waves." —Ricky Grigg, former world surfing champion and big wave pioneer "Punctuated by absolutely stunning photography of these monstrous waves—and the intrepid souls who embrace the challenge of taming them—this is a glimpse into a totally alien world, and the incredible force nature brings to bear. It's a celebration, a warning, a tribute, a memorial, and a historical document all at once." —Sacramento Book Review "A solid collection of big wave anecdotes, [including] an unvarnished, adrenaline-packed narrative from hellman Shane Dorian, recounting one of the most traumatic beatings he ever took while surfing.... Solid, blending surfing entertainment with the simple power of stories about massive swells.... For surfers who enjoy books in the 'talking story' genre, you won't be disappointed by The Big Juice." —TheWatermansLibrary.com

Product Details

ISBN-13:
9780762777457
Publisher:
Falcon Guides
Publication date:
11/08/2011
Sold by:
Barnes & Noble
Format:
NOOK Book
Pages:
336
Sales rank:
1,116,907
File size:
13 MB
Note:
This product may take a few minutes to download.

Read an Excerpt

 

Fifty years ago, pioneering big-wave surfer Buzzy Trent said, “Big waves are not measured in feet and inches, but in increments of fear.”

 

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Up at Mavericks, Peter Mel had surfed two amazing waves and was up on his third when it hit an undersea ledge and jacked vertical, sucking the bottom out of the wave. As the six-story wall of water folded and detonated, Mel simply ducked, covered, and prayed. “It was like I was run over by Niagara Falls,” he says. “I thought it was going to tear the limbs off my body.” His partner Ryan Augenstein rushed in and stopped cold.  The ocean was so churned, the impeller couldn’t get a grip in the foam - like a car spinning its wheels in snow. As another wave bore down, the jet ski suddenly caught, Mel grabbed the sled and the two shot to safety. “It was one of the most amazing saves I’ve ever seen,” Mel says. At 12:30 a rescue team motored out. A crab boat named Good Guys had foundered, its two fishermen lost to the waves.

 

Down at Ghost Tree, Anthony Ruffo had tow-surfed into four menacing bombs. Peter Davi was determined to tow into at least one wave on his traditional paddleboard. “I’m 45 years old and I want one of the f***ing waves,” he said from the back of Sorensen’s Jet Ski. “Those were the last words I heard him say,” Sorensen says.

 

 

 

 

Meet the Author

John Long’s award-winning short stories and books—ranging from literary fiction to instructional manuals—have sold more than two million copies. His book The Stonemasters won the grand prize at the Banff Film and Book Festival.

 

Sam George is one of the world’s top surfing authorities. A former professional competitor and editor of Surfer and Surfing magazines, he is the author of several books, including Surfing: A Way of Life, and he is an award-winning film writer and director. 
John Long is an acclaimed American rock climber and author of more than forty titles, including The Trad Climber’s Bible (FalconGuides). He lives in Venice, California.

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