The Riches of France: A Shopping and Touring Guide to the French Provinces

by Maribeth Clemente

Overview

Whether you're a shopper, a browser, or a traveler with a love for all things French, this is your one-of-a-kind guidebook to the culture of regional France represented by the products and centuries-old craftsmanship of each region. At prices lower than what you would pay in Paris or the United States, you'll find endless treasures as you tour boutiques, small factories, artisans' workshops, and wineries and distilleries:

--Handmade paper in Auvergne
--Moorish music boxes in Corsica
--Artwork in the Cote d'Azur
--Tapestries in the Limousin
--Wine in the Loire Valley
--Glasswork in Lorraine
--Silk clothing in Lyons
--Faience in the Western Loire
--and much more, including where to find "the best of the provinces" in Paris

Complete with details on exchange rates, shipping, French customs, touring, and restaurant and hotel selections, Maribeth Clemente's The Riches of France is an indispensable sourcebook for exploring every province of France.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781466867871
Publisher:	St. Martin's Publishing Group
Publication date:	04/08/2014
Sold by:	Macmillan
Format:	eBook
Pages:	362
File size:	3 MB

About the Author

Maribeth Clemente is the author of The Riches of France and The Chic Shopper's Guide to Paris. She divides her time between France and Saratoga Springs, New York.

MARIBETH CLEMENTE, author of The Chic Shopper's Guide to Paris and The Riches of France, is a former Paris shopping consultant and currently host of the biweekly half-hour talk radio show, Travel Fun. A longtime resident of Paris, Clemente now lives in Telluride, Colorado.

Read an Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

The Essentials

When to Go

In Season vs. Off-Season

Choosing when to go to France is key — a choice that depends largely on where you intend to go and what you plan to do there. As a general rule, the best time for travel throughout all of France — especially if you are looking to play more of a tourist than a beachcomber — is during the spring and fall. The month of May can be a little bit tricky because there are so many holidays, yet if you take them into consideration ahead of time, you shouldn't have any problem.

If you decide to spend most of your time in Paris and plan to make just a couple of side trips outside the capital, then the time of year is less important — unless, of course, gloomy weather leaves you truly glum and non–air-conditioned boutiques make you feel faint. If that is the case, you should probably avoid the winter and summer, and certainly if you want to steer clear of hordes of tourists, you should rule out the busier parts of France during August. The period from mid-July through the end of August brings a funny kind of ghost-town feeling to the more residential sections of the capital that is none too disagreeable. Parisians tend to clear out of town during this time, so don't be surprised to find a certain number of shops and restaurants closed at different intervals throughout these summer weeks as well.

For the rest of France, you'll want to determine whether you will be traveling during "the season" or not. La saison touristique generally refers to the period between Easter and November 1, the time when shops and restaurants open up either on a full-time basis or on weekends in order to benefit from the passage of fair-weather visitors. Peak season is July and August, when travelers often find themselves amidst throngs of tourists. In most parts of France, the crowd level is still somewhat tolerable in July, but once August hits, be aware that you risk becoming entangled in the flood of tourists who inundate France, largely from neighboring European countries.

For many North Americans, it's hard to fathom that most Europeans receive four to six weeks of vacation per year and that they take much of this time off all at once. Yes, entire factories do indeed shut down for the month of August, creating a mass exodus that leads to all kinds of mayhem along many of France's highways, and even back country roads, and the havoc you have to deal with once you've arrived in the most popular resort destinations is nothing to sneeze at either. Consider this: a good number of Germany's eighty million citizens and other sunstarved Europeans typically spend their vacations basking in the glorious summer sun of the French Riviera. The majority of the French flock to the same tourist centers as well, so if you do opt to visit any of the hot spots, plan it so that you can dodge the crowds as much as possible. A quiet, somewhat secluded hotel, with visits and shopping excursions planned according to the more off hours, can shelter you from the diminishing effects of an overabundance of fun seekers. The safest bets include those regions more toward the north such as Brittany, Normandy, Picardy, and Champagne. The summer can be a marvelously colorful time of year in the land of the Gauls, since this is when folkloric fêtes and cultural festivals abound in a highly animated ambiance of merriment and local tradition.

If you're traveling to France during the off-season, know that although life quiets down in the smaller, less-publicized resort areas like Ile-de-Ré in Poitou Charentes, other seaside destinations such as Biarritz and Cannes remain hopping year-round. Establishments in many of the regions, including Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne, Limousin, Lyon and Romans, and more, are barely affected by the change of seasons, which means that you can count on finding most places open most of the time.

Christmas in the Provinces

All of France trims itself with a modest display of adornment during the end-of-the-year holidays, but if you really want to capture the spirit of Christmas in France, you must head for Alsace, Lorraine, or Provence. The people of Alsace and Lorraine have been greatly influenced by the Germans' enthusiasm for Noël and have, of course, adopted certain Germanic traditions such as the celebrating of the fête de la St-Nicolas on the sixth of December. Special celebrations take place in both regions to honor this patron saint of Christmas, but in Nancy and in the nearby town of St-Nicolas-de-Fort, the festivities vibrate with a spectacular array of processions, folkloric customs, and fireworks. I have written about the importance of pain d'épice, or gingerbread, consumed in Alsace throughout the year, but Christmastime is indeed its crowning season; beginning toward the end of November, virtually every pastry and chocolate shop features an appetizing display of gaily decorated St. Nicks made of freshly baked gingerbread and glossy chocolate. As in Germany, the tradition of Christkindelsmarkts or Christmas Markets has become a large part of the holiday scene in Alsace, and the one at Kaysersberg is by far the best. This traditional Marché de Noël takes place annually over the three weekends preceding Christmas in a folksy outdoor setting peppered with vendors who sell everything from handmade pottery to hot spiced wine. Christmas in Provence revolves primarily around santons, the painted clay figurines used to decorate the mangers. You can buy these endearing expressions of Provençal folklore at town markets or specialized santon fairs, which normally take place in Aixen-Provence the last week in November through the first week of December, and in Marseille from the end of November to the end of December. Le Salon International des Santonniers, which occurs annually in Arles toward the first two weeks of December, exhibits a fantastic display of santons, although few are actually for sale. The beautiful little village of Séguret in the Vaucluse département is widely reputed for its crêche, or manger, and if you happen to be there for its midnight mass on Christmas Eve, you will take part in one of the great traditions of Noël en Provence.

What and Where to Buy

The scads of information chronicled in this book focuses largely on what and where to buy — entries which were culled from research that had revealed even more wonderful regional products. My selections, for the most part, were determined by the idea that each purchase should reflect an important dimension or flavor of the region. In highlighting the following categories, I just wanted to bring to your attention some of the primary shopping themes that have been emphasized throughout the chapters.

French Classics

This book takes you to the towns where the world's finest table arts are actually made; Limoges china, Baccarat, Daum, and Saint-Louis crystal, and Gien and Quimper faience figure among the best-known destinations. In certain instances you can buy on the premises, where the selection is often spectacular and the prices run low, particularly at the factory discount stores of these world-famous manufacturers. Shipping seldom poses a problem, and the thrill of purchasing something at the mother house is uncontestable. Lesser-known, yet highly prized, French classics include table linens from Alsace (Beauvillé) and the Vosges mountains (Jacquard Français).

Local Crafts and Artwork

Most of the goods included in this book represent some of the most elevated forms of artisanal work that exist in the world. Handcrafted items such as Provençal santons, Alsatian pottery, Savoy bells, Norman and Southwestern copperware, and Basque linens are just a few of the examples of works that have grown out of traditions which have existed for centuries. More artful and exotic products include stained glass panels from Chartres, Basque walking sticks called makilas, and string instruments from Corsica and Lorraine. Art in its purest form is best sought out in the reputable galleries along the Côte d'Azur, although I also list a number of dealers in Brittany, Normandy, Western Loire, and a few other regions which showcase works from some of their best local artists.

Museum and Château Shop Souvenir Items

As you tour through France, you will probably visit an incomparable number of museums, historic sites, and châteaux. You can bet that each of these attractions has a selling space where you can pick up a memento or two from your visit. Unfortunately many of these shops might leave you a bit disappointed with their often sparse collection of goods, but nonetheless one could easily amass enough souvenir items to fill up an extra suitcase. Many of these products serve as reasonably priced gifts for friends and family back home. Some of the best loved museum gift shops include those of the Mémorial in Caen, Monet's house in Giverny, the Saline Royale d'Arc et Senans in the Jura, and the Musée de Toile de Jouy in Jouy-en-Josas, to name a few.

Antiques

The number of antiquing possibilities in the provinces is staggering, and best of all, prices tend to average about 30 percent less than those of Paris. There is no need to feel daunted, either, about the prospects of buying a huge eighteenth-century armoire in the hinterlands of France and then having to find a way to ship it home. Not only will such a purchase prove more savvy than a similar one in the capital, but you'll end up paying far less (even with the cost of shipping and insurance) than you ever would in your own country. Antique dealers in the U.S., for example, might end up asking at least five times the price of what you paid in France. This is true for everything from high-end antiques to brocante, the kind of secondhand items that many non-Europeans would refer to as antiques even though the French do not. I love shopping for brocante, and some of the best finds may be unearthed at quaint little bric-à-brac shops and at the many flea markets that I have listed throughout the regions. Country French enameled coffeepots and salt boxes from the first part of this century that typically command exorbitant prices abroad come a dime a dozen in France. Savings can sometimes be extraordinary on everything from old faience to champagne memorabilia, but as a general rule I tell people if you like it, buy it.

In addition to antique shops and flea markets, most towns also hold salons or antique shows that take place annually during a two-week period. I chose to list only the really well known shows; to obtain a comprehensive listing of what kind of antiquing is going on when you're in the country, pick up a copy of Revue Alladin, a monthly magazine that lists all of the shows, markets, and auctions that you need to know about. You'll find the very best deals at auctions — but you'd better go to them equipped with flawless French or a very trustworthy translator.

Note: If you do purchase a quality antique, be sure to request a certificate of authenticity that states the age of the piece and what the dealer claims it to be; this paper should be stamped, dated, and signed by the vendor. You should also ask for a separate certificate or receipt that states its value.

Food and Wine

You could get fat just reading about all of the food and wine entries included in this book. I don't know whether the French consider chocolate a staple, but they have so much of such tremendously fine quality that it clearly is an important part of their carefully balanced diets. This, in addition to the fact that I am known to seek out my own daily dose of delectable chocolat, did not help to bar me from mentioning the majority of top-drawer sweet shops across the land. In many of the towns, I also include the best source for a cross-section of regional specialties, such as wines, cheeses, and countless other gourmet food items. A stop here would provide you with an array of goodies necessary for an impromptu picnic and/or numerous affordable gift ideas of local flavor.

Market Bounty

You haven't lived until you've experienced all of the wonderful aromas, colors, and animation of France's open-air markets. These are also the best places to go to for an immediate slice of local flavor. Although there are similarities among the marchés throughout France, you'll also notice a great number of differences as you glance at the day's catch in Brittany or at the pizzas in Provence, fresh from the roaming pizza truck's woodburning oven. Shopping here does not have to be limited to the day's picnic provisions, either, since most markets sell such highly transportable food products as jars of homemade jams and honeys, olive oil, pâtés, and specially preserved goat cheeses. Depending on the region, you also can delight yourself with everything from earthenware kougelhopf molds in Alsace to vibrantly colored and whimsical fabrics, frocks, and tablecloths in Provence!

Money

A Few Words About Prices

I have listed all prices in French francs, not to force you to exercize your math skills (or calculators), but instead to avoid confusion resulting from fluctuations in the exchange rate or conversions from currencies other than U.S. dollars.

Noteworthy hotels and restaurants are identified as Inexpensive, Moderate, Expensive, or Very Expensive. These categories are meant to serve as a gauge of comparison with other French establishments; bear in mind that Expensive in France might be considered Very Expensive in another country, or vice versa. To find out the exact prices, call or fax the hotel or restaurant ahead of time.

Note: Prices listed for goods in the various boutiques should simply serve as a guideline; you'd do well to anticipate increases across the board.

Exchange Rates and Cashing In

The exchange rate that you receive at most banks or exchange offices generally is lower than the one posted in your daily newspaper or on CNN. Commissions are usually tacked on as well, fees that can vary as much as the exchange rates. When in the provinces, you have little choice, and it's probably not worth your time to shop around for the best rate; most times you're lucky enough just to find a bank open willing to handle le change! Know that you always receive a slightly better exchange with traveler's checks, and if you're looking to exchange US$100 bills, you may have to look long and hard before you find a bank or an exchange office that will agree to take them. It's always best to avoid exchanging currencies in hotels — not to mention in actual boutiques or restaurants — because in virtually all instances, this is where you'll receive the least desirable rate of exchange.

In Paris, the American Express office can be a handy and comforting place for a number of reasons: if you are a cardholder, you may cash personal checks here or draw on your credit card for cash advances. Anyone may change money here, and if you've lost your AmEx traveler's checks or left them at home, you can be issued new ones within about thirty minutes. Cardholders also can receive mail and messages here addressed to them in care of:

American Express
American Express is located in the 9th Arrondissement (9) and the local Métro stop is l'Opéra.

Open Monday-Friday 9 A.M.–6:30 P.M.

Automatic Banking Machines

Travelers have come to rely more and more upon automatic banking machines (ATMs) throughout France. You can even find ATMs in some of the most remote villages of the land, making it increasingly easy to turn up one that is compatible with your banking system at home. As added reassurance, find out before you leave for France which logos identify the ATMs that will be able to handle your transactions. Once you've figured this out, using them is a cinch since the instructions are always listed in several languages.

Note: As much as you could probably count on ATMs to provide you with most of the cash you'll need during your travels in France, don't forget that, depending on your bank or credit card, the interest can pile up significantly with each withdrawal. If you do use ATMs, try to do so just before the end of your billing period so that you won't be socked with an unpleasant heap of service fees and interest when you arrive home.

Payment

For regular shopping and living expenses, paying with credit cards is the best way to go. Not only will this help you to keep better track of your funds (unless you're one of those who runs wild with plastic), but it also prevents you from having to carry around too much cash or keep track of oodles of traveler's checks. Better yet, credit cards offer the best rates of exchange on purchases without tacking on significant additional fees (the rate used is that of the day that the transaction occurs). Most major credit cards are widely accepted; although American Express may be readily used for restaurants and hotels, however, the majority of shops take only VISA. The French peoples' credit cards necessitate PIN numbers when making purchases, whereas yours may not; so if by any chance an absent-minded person in a boutique or any other establishment tries to run your card through a high-tech hand- held gizmo — you may want to indicate that your card does not require you to punch in a PIN number.

(Continues…)

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Excerpted from "The Riches Of France"
by .
Copyright © 1997 Maribeth Clemente.
Excerpted by permission of St. Martin's Press.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Table of Contents

Title Page,
Copyright Notice,
Dedication,
Acknowledgments,
Map,
Paris and Beyond,
How to Use This Guidebook,
The Essentials,
When to Go,
What and Where to Buy,
Money,
Shop Talk,
Packing Tips,
Dealing with Lost or Stolen Luggage,
Parlez-Vous Anglais? (A Mini-Guide to Interacting with the French),
Touring in France,
THE REGIONS,
The Alps • Les Alps,
Alsace • Alsace,
Auvergne • Auvergne,
Brittany • Bretagne,
Burgundy • Bourgogne,
Champagne • Champagne,
CORSICA • CORSE,
The Côte D'Azur • LA Côte D'Azur,
Franche Comté • Franche Comté,
Ile-De-France • Ile-De-France,
The Limousin • Le Limousin,
The Loire Valley And Center • Centre Val De Loire,
Lorraine • Lorraine,
Lyons And Romans • Lyon Et Romans,
Normandy • Normandie,
Picardy And The North • Picardie Et Le Nord,
Poitou Charentes • Poitou Charentes,
Provence • Provence,
The Southwest • Le Sud Ouest,
The Western Loire • Pays De Loire,
Shopping Glossary,
Index,
By the Same Author,
Copyright,