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Overview
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781118508701 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | HarperCollins |
| Publication date: | 10/15/2013 |
| Edition description: | First Edition |
| Pages: | 384 |
| Sales rank: | 1,069,210 |
| Product dimensions: | 9.10(w) x 8.40(h) x 1.30(d) |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
CHAPTER 1
ASSAGGINI & APERITIVI
GATHERING
WHETHER I AM HOSTING AN EVENT (OFTEN), or having friends and family to my home for a get-together (not as often as I would like), I know that what people want right away is a drink and a little something to nibble on. That's what the recipes here are all about. These are the nuts, olives, dips, canapés, and hors d'oeuvres that set the tone for the rest of the night. At home, these are the bites you put out before dinner, while guests are gathering, catching up, getting acquainted.
When we do events, we'll often set a long table against one wall and center a dramatic bouquet of flowers on it, which helps draw attention to the table. Wine and wineglasses go at one end and, at the other, some cheeses, a bowl of Herbed Potato Chips, Spiced Almonds, and Warm Olives. This setup not only lets guests nosh on something immediately, but it also creates a natural meeting place.
All of these assaggini ("small tastes") pack loads of flavor and texture into a single balanced bite. Some are easy to make. Others take more time and effort but, like most good things in life, are worth it.
RECIPES
SPICED ALMONDS
WARM OLIVES WITH GARLIC AND HERBS
CRISPY FRIED ARTICHOKES WITH LEMON YOGURT AND
BASIL
LEMON YOGURT
BEEF CARPACCIO ON PARMESAN CRACKERS
PARMESAN CRACKERS
HERBED POTATO CHIPS
GOUGÈRES WITH PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
BASIL PURÉE
CHICKEN LIVER AND FOIE GRAS PÂTÉ
OLIVES ASCOLANE (SAUSAGE-STUFFED FRIED OLIVES)
MINI SCALLION AND SPINACH PANCAKES WITH
STRACCIATELLA AND TROUT ROE
BALSAMIC-GLAZED PORK RIBS
SPICY TOMATO-APRICOT JAM
MUSHROOM ARANCINI
ROASTED POTATOES WITH FONDUTA
SPICED ALMONDS
These almonds, which pack a little more heat than most people expect in a bar nut, pair well with cocktails. We make them in 20-pound batches; you may never have a need for that many nuts in your life, but know that you can easily multiply this recipe. The egg white helps the spices adhere to the nuts. You want to use just enough to make that happen but not so much that the spices clump.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
Grapeseed or canola oil, for the baking sheet
Heat a convection oven to 350°F or a conventional oven to 375°F. Very lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.
In a small bowl, combine the sugar, salt, paprika, cayenne, and star anise. In a large bowl, whisk the egg white until frothy. Add the almonds and toss well to coat. Sprinkle the spices over the almonds and toss well to coat evenly. Transfer the almonds to a colander set in a clean sink and shake gently to remove excess spices.
Spread the nuts out on the baking sheet in a single layer and bake, stirring about halfway through, until nicely toasted, about 25 minutes. Remove the almonds from the oven and let cool on the baking sheet.
Remove the pieces of star anise and discard. Use your hands to lightly separate clusters of the almonds, then return the almonds to the cleaned colander and gently shake to remove any excess spice. Serve right away, or store airtight for up to 2 days.
WARM OLIVES WITH GARLIC AND HERBS
Sure, you can put out just a plain bowl of olives, but why would you do that when you can easily boost their flavor by infusing them with garlic, rosemary, thyme, and crushed red pepper? Not only that, but a bowl of these olives contributes a wonderful aroma to the table. People always comment on it.
MAKES 3 CUPS
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat the olive oil, garlic, and crushed red pepper until the garlic starts to sizzle. Add the rosemary and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in the olives, lower the heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the olives are warmed through and have absorbed the flavors, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve warm.
CRISPY FRIED ARTICHOKES WITH LEMON YOGURT AND BASIL
If you've ever been to Italy, then you know all about fried artichokes. I can't get enough of them when I am in Rome, but I sometimes find that the ones I'm served are too brown, with a flavor that's bitter from spending too much time in the oil and a texture that's not as supple as I would like. This recipe keeps intact the essence of the dish but elevates it for a better overall experience. The secret is frying the artichokes twice: first at a lower temperature and then at a higher temperature. The first fry makes the artichokes tender without overcooking the exterior. The second fry crisps and browns them to perfection. You can do the first fry (called a "blanch") several hours ahead of the second.
SERVES 6
Grapeseed or canola oil, for frying
Attach a candy/deep-fry thermometer to a deep, wide pot, and fill the pot with enough oil to come about halfway up the sides of the pot. Heat the oil to 275°F.
In batches, lower the artichokes into the oil and blanch until a metal cake tester or thin metal skewer can easily be inserted into the heart of the artichoke, 7 to 12 minutes. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the artichokes to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Reserve the oil off the heat. Peel the outer leaves off, pulling downward to peel the stem. With the stem side up, flatten each artichoke, moving it in a circular motion on the baking sheet until the leaves open up. Refrigerate the artichokes until ready to fry the second time and serve. (The artichokes may be blanched 1 day ahead of serving; refrigerate until ready to use.)
To serve, heat the reserved oil to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. In batches, gently lower the artichokes into the oil and fry until golden brown and crispy, about 1 minute. Transfer to the paper towels and season with salt. Drop the basil leaves into the hot oil for a few seconds to crisp them, and transfer to the paper towels.
Spread some of the Lemon Yogurt on each serving plate and divide the artichokes among the plates. Top with the fried basil and serve immediately.
LEMON YOGURT
Delicious with fried artichokes, this tangy yogurt would also go well with fried calamari or just about anything else deep-fried or panfried, for that matter.
MAKES ABOUT 1 ¼ CUPS
1 cup plain full-fat yogurt, preferably sheep's milk
In a small bowl, combine the yogurt, lemon juice, garlic, crushed red pepper, and salt. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Let sit for 20 minutes at room temperature, then remove the garlic so it doesn't overpower the other flavors. Cover and refrigerate if not using right away. (The yogurt may be made 2 days ahead; cover and refrigerate it, but let it warm a bit at room temperature before serving for the best flavor.)
BEEF CARPACCIO ON PARMESAN CRACKERS
Soft and supple slices of paper-thin raw beef drizzled with a little olive oil and served on a crisp cracker-the simplicity of this bite is part of its beauty. For the best results, buy the highest quality of beef you can afford. I recommend Australian Wagyu because its marbling means that the raw meat practically melts in the mouth when served at room temperature.
MAKES ABOUT 40 SMALL BITES
8 ounces high-quality, well-marbled sirloin strip Parmesan Crackers (recipe follows), reheated in a low oven if necessary Flaked sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cut the sirloin into 8 equal pieces. Put one piece between two pieces of plastic wrap and pound with a meat mallet until paper-thin. Repeat with the other pieces, then cut each piece of carpaccio into 5 pieces. Place one piece of carpaccio on a Parmesan Cracker, allowing it to fall and fold naturally. Season with a tiny pinch of sea salt, a smidge of black pepper, and a couple of drops of lemon juice. Using a vegetable peeler, shave a thin slice of Parmigiano-Reggiano onto the beef. Top with a pinch of microgreens and a light drizzle of olive oil. Repeat until you have used up all the beef; you may have extra crackers. Serve immediately.
PARMESAN CRACKERS
MAKES ABOUT 50 CRACKERS
1 ¼ cup all-purpose flour
Heat a convection oven to 325°F or a conventional oven to 350°F. Put the flour, salt, and black pepper in a food processor and pulse until combined. Add the butter and ½ cup of the Parmigiano-Reggiano and pulse until the dough looks sandy. Add the ice water and pulse until the dough just comes together. Remove the dough from the food processor and, if using the chives, knead them in by hand.
Put the dough on a piece of parchment paper, put another piece of parchment over it, and roll the dough 1/8 inch thick. Remove the top sheet, trim any jagged edges, and transfer the dough on the parchment to a rimmed baking sheet. With a pizza cutter, divide the dough into 1 × 2-inch rectangles (press just hard enough to cut the dough and not the paper). With a fork, prick each rectangle a few times. Bake for 10 minutes, then take the pan out of the oven and sprinkle the crackers with the remaining 2 tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano. Return the pan to the oven and bake for 5 minutes.
The crackers are best served warm, but they can be made 1 day ahead. Let them cool completely on the baking sheet before storing airtight. Reheat in a warm oven before serving.
HERBED POTATO CHIPS
Homemade potato chips are so easy to make and so much better than bagged, especially when they're fried with garlic and fragrant herbs like rosemary and sage. It's hard to say what I like better: the crisp chips or the fried herbs, which, though they hardly look different when fried, will shatter in your mouth in the most pleasant way. Make these chips for friends, and you will be regarded as a hero. While I prefer my chips skin on — I think they look sexier that way — you can peel the potatoes, if you prefer.
MAKES 1 BIG BOWL OF CHIPS
2 large russet potatoes, skin on, well washed Grapeseed or canola oil, for frying
Fill a medium bowl with cold water. Using a mandoline, slice the potatoes into very thin (1/16-inch) rounds. As you slice, transfer the potatoes to the water and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.
Attach a candy/deep-fry thermometer to a deep, wide pot, and fill the pot about halfway with oil. Heat the oil to between 300°F and 325°F. Meanwhile, drain the potatoes and spread them out on paper towels to absorb excess water.
Line a rimmed baking sheet with dry paper towels. Carefully add a handful of the potatoes to the oil; the oil will bubble furiously. Fry, turning the potatoes occasionally, until the oil stops bubbling and the potatoes are golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add a portion of the sage, rosemary, and parsley and a portion of the garlic and fry for another 10 to 15 seconds. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer everything from the oil to the baking sheet. Immediately season with salt and a tiny pinch of crushed red pepper.
Repeat with the remaining potatoes, herbs, and garlic, kosher salt, and crushed red pepper. Let the chips cool to room temperature, then transfer to a large bowl and serve.
THE APERITIVO
An aperitivo is a pre-meal drink crafted to whet your appetite. Campari, that iconic Italian red spirit, on the rocks, is the most basic and classic aperitivo. And it's an ingredient in one of Scarpetta's signature cocktails, the San Remo, a stimulating blend of citrus, bitter, and bourbon. To make it, combine the following in a mixing glass: 2 ounces Carpano Antica, 1 ounce Campari, ¼ ounce St-Germain, ¼ ounce Maker's Mark, 1 ounce orange juice, and the juice from ½ lemon and ½ lime. Top the mixing glass with ice, shake, strain, and pour into a rocks glass. Garnish with an orange twist. Easy enough, but do as we do and pay attention to the details: Make sure to use fresh ice, not the stuff that's been in the freezer for years. And serve the drink in a good glass, one that feels balanced in your hand and holds the right amount of liquid. We serve the San Remo in an Schott Zwiesel Iceberg Double Old Fashioned glass, which has a straight side and a thick base that makes drinking out of it a pleasure. It's the little things.
GOUGÈRES WITH PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
Gougères, savory little cheese puffs, may come from France, but I give my bite-size ones an Italian accent by flavoring them with Parmigiano-Reggiano and filling the profiterole-like ball with a basil purée. When we serve these at a party, we layer the serving tray with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and grate even more of it over the gougères. It not only looks cool, but the texture of the grated cheese against the warm gougères is really great.
MAKES ABOUT 50 BITE-SIZE GOUGÈRES
1 cup whole milk
Heat a convection oven with the fan on low to 350°F (if the fan does not have low speed, don't use it) or heat a conventional oven to 375°F. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment.
In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine 1 cup water, the milk, butter, sugar, and salt. Cook, stirring, until the butter has melted and the mixture has just come to a boil. Immediately add the flour all at once while stirring constantly until a dough forms and pulls cleanly from the sides of the pot.
Transfer the dough to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed until the dough is cool enough to combine with the eggs without cooking them, about 1 minute. Add 1 egg and mix on low speed until it's well blended and the dough is smooth again. Repeat with the rest of the eggs until all are incorporated. Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano and mix until incorporated.
Using a pastry bag with a plain tip, pipe the dough into cherry tomato–size mounds on the baking sheets about 1 inch apart. Alternatively, use a mini ice-cream scoop or 2 tablespoons to drop small mounds of dough onto the sheets. (The gougères can be frozen at this point. Freeze them on the baking sheet until rock-hard, then store airtight in a freezer bag. Before baking, space frozen gougères out on a parchment-lined baking sheet and thaw for 1 hour at room temperature before baking as directed.)
Bake the gougères, turning the sheets about halfway through, until light golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and sprinkle the gougères with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Return to the oven to finish baking, about 5 minutes. Let the gougères cool slightly before filling them. (The gougères can be made 1 day ahead; let them cool completely before storing airtight.)
To serve, transfer the Basil Purée to a squeeze bottle and the gougères to a low oven to warm, if necessary. Using the tip of the squeeze bottle, poke a hole in the bottom of the warm gougères and fill completely with the purée. Place on a serving tray and garnish with additional grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
VARIATIONS: These flavorings — use 1½ cups of whichever you choose — may be added to the dough along with the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve these flavored gougères with or without the filling.
SPECK: Cut into julienne.
PANCETTA: Cut into cubes, cooked in oil until crisp, drained, and finely chopped.
SPICY SAUSAGE: Removed from casings, cooked, cooled, and crumbled.
BASIL PURÉE
I just love the way the bright green of this purée looks against the light-colored gougères on the previous page, but it's also delicious drizzled on pasta or grilled meats or added to a vinaigrette, especially one destined for a salad that includes ripe summer tomatoes. Blanching the basil before puréeing it softens the leaves, which makes them emulsify easier for a more supple result. Blanching also gives the sauce a brighter green color that will stay vibrant for a couple of days.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "The Scarpetta Cookbook"
by .
Copyright © 2013 Scott Conant Management LLC.
Excerpted by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company.
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Table of Contents
Acknowledgements viii
Introduction ix
Assaggini & Apperitivi: Gathering 1
Pane & Condiment: Bread 26
Antipasti, Insalate, Zuppe: To Begin 44
Primi Piatti: Pasta 118
Secondi: Fish and Meat 184
Dolci: Lingering 269
The Scarpetta Pantry 308
Sources 356
Index 358