The World in a Skillet: A Food Lover's Tour of the New American South

by Paul Knipple, Angela Knipple, John T. Edge (Foreword by)

Overview

Paul and Angela Knipple's culinary tour of the contemporary American South celebrates the flourishing of global food traditions "down home." Drawing on the authors' firsthand interviews and reportage from Richmond to Mobile and enriched by a cornucopia of photographs and original recipes, the book presents engaging, poignant profiles of a host of first-generation immigrants from all over the world who are cooking their way through life as professional chefs, food entrepreneurs and restaurateurs, and home cooks.
Beginning the tour with an appreciation of the South's foundational food traditions—including Native American, Creole, African American, and Cajun—the Knipples tell the fascinating stories of more than forty immigrants who now call the South home. Not only do their stories trace the continuing evolution of southern foodways, they also show how food is central to the immigrant experience. For these skillful, hardworking immigrants, food provides the means for both connecting with the American dream and maintaining cherished ethnic traditions. Try Father Vien's Vietnamese-style pickled mustard greens, Don Felix's pork ribs, Elizabeth Kizito's Ugandan-style plantains in peanut sauce, or Uli Bennevitz's creamy beer soup and taste the world without stepping north of the Mason-Dixon line.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781469622231
Publisher:	The University of North Carolina Press
Publication date:	12/01/2014
Pages:	296
Product dimensions:	6.80(w) x 9.90(h) x 0.70(d)

About the Author

Paul and Angela Knipple, natives of Memphis, are freelance food writers and longtime members of the Southern Foodways Alliance.

Table of Contents

Foreword John T. Edge ix

Preface: We Are All from Somewhere Else xi

Introduction: Keepers of the Flame 1

Part I Seeking The American Dream

1 Mexico: Up by the Bootstraps 17

2 Cuba, Haiti, and the Dominican Republic: Refugees, Politics, and the Plate 35

3 Kurds: A People without a Country 59

Part II Living the American Dream

4 Central and South America: Family 75

5 Vietnam: Community 102

6 Bosnia: Extended Community 118

7 The Indian Subcontinent: Feeding the Technology Boom 133

8 Japan and South Korea: Blue Collars and Bluefin 153

Part III Bringing Tradition to the Table

9 China: The Secret Menu 173

10 Kosher and Halal: Keeping the Faith in the Land of Pork 192

11 Europe: Haute Cuisine and Double Standards? 213

12 Africa: Returning from Gumbo to N'gombo 236

Afterword 253

Suggested Reading 255

Acknowledgments 257

Index of Recipes 259

General Index 261

What People are Saying About This

From the Publisher

A marvelous collection of portraits and stories from the field. Paul and Angela Knipple show that change is in the wind and that the South in particular seems to be welcoming and incorporating these new ways into its old menus.—John Egerton, author of Southern Food: At Home, on the Road, in History

Let fastidious foodies whine that American food isn't what it used to be. Paul and Angela Knipple celebrate the delicious truth that the fare of our nation—in this case, the South—indeed is always changing and incalculably enriched by new dishes brought by immigrants from around the world.—Jane and Michael Stern, Roadfood.com

Through engaging stories and meticulous documentation, the Knipples prove that Southern food is a melting pot unto itself, a unique and exciting food culture spiked with influences that extend far beyond the Mason-Dixon line and incorporate the best flavors from around the world.—Kelly Alexander, James Beard Journalism Award–winning food writer and author of Hometown Appetites: The Story of Clementine Paddleford, the Forgotten Food Writer Who Chronicled How America Ate

The World in a Skillet is an important book. Southern cooking is often viewed through the rearview mirror of nostalgia. Here, Angela and Paul literally take a look straight out the windshield to see where our regional cooking is heading. And it is exciting! From a Bosnian refugee's Kentucky kitchen to an Ethiopian in Memphis's advice on sopping up gravy, this book opened my eyes. I learned more about the world and how wonderful sharing recipes can be—and to slow down when a restaurant in a strip mall catches my eye. Beyond the stories these new Americans kindly share there is also a tremendous amount of information on ingredients, techniques, and global utensils. The Kitchen Passports throughout the book make it easier for these authentic recipes to find a way to my own kitchen. This book is a loving visit told in the new accents of the South. A whole world of flavor is just right down the road a piece—and thanks to the Knipples, I'm inspired to take a kitchen trip!—Martha Hall Foose, 2009 Winner James Beard Award for American Cooking and author of A Southerly Course: Recipes and Stories From Close to Home

Editorial Reviews

An important document of this moment in the South's culinary development, but also the compelling stories of the immigrants themselves as they gradually become part of the fabric of the region.--Nashville Scene

Even more important than its ability to demystify kimchi or tuna tartare, what The World in a Skillet does is bring into focus the dozens of little restaurants, food carts and cafes you no doubt pass every day on your way to the Cracker Barrel.--Biblio Buffet

The World in a Skillet is a good book, even if devoured solely for the recipes. More importantly, however, it serves as an eloquent and timely testimony on how immigrants continue to renew and enrich this country.--ForeWord Reviews

A "Southern" cookbook like you have never seen before, but one that is absolutely, authentically Southern just the same.--Quarter Moon at Topsail blog

Delicious. . . . your own global road trip.--Edible Memphis

A must-read for those interested in contemporary Southern food culture--what it was, what it is, and what it will be.--Oxford American

An excellent book to add to your collection.--Potlikkery blog by Rebecca Tolley-Stokes

From the Publisher

Despite its lackluster cover, the Knipples—husband-and-wife foodies—offer much more than a rote collection of recipes for greens, cornbread, and fried chicken in their culinary tour of the American South. Instead of treading down that well-worn path, the duo focus on the region's many immigrant restaurateurs, telling their stories and sharing recipes for Salvadoran enchiladas, Bosnian cabbage rolls, Belgian crêpes, Korean pork dumplings, Ugandan plantains in a peanut sauce, and many more. As mouthwatering as the recipes are, the profiles are similarly rich—though some are bittersweet. While many chefs started their cafe, cantina, or bistro to once again enjoy the foods of their native land, others did so to start a new life, like Rey Regalado, a trained engineer in Cuba who escaped and started a successful restaurant in Atlanta. Each subject has a compelling story and the Knipples do a terrific job of telling them. Unfortunately, designer Kimberly Bryant's layout is all over the map, making for a frustrating reading experience. Biographical entries appear without clear headings and run in a single column, while disorganized recipes appear in two columns, sometimes running disjointedly onto multiple pages. The Knipples have crafted an illuminating study of the South's culinary diversity, with sundry recipes to boot; it's unfortunate that a ham-fisted design makes it so hard to enjoy. B&W Photos. (Feb.)

Publishers Weekly

Paul and Angela Knipple, members of the Southern Foodways Alliance, wish to share their passion for Southern food with others. They are experienced food writers (having written extensively for publications such as the Memphis Flyer and Edible Memphis), but this is their first book. Southern cooking often brings to mind dishes with influences from West Africa, Europe, and Native Americans. The Knipples successfully expand this view of Southern cooking to represent today's multicultural South. They showcase 40 chefs from around the world (including Asia, the Middle East, Europe, Africa, and the Americas). Although some recipes are included (e.g., Biryani from India, Mazorca from Colombia, and Kajmak from Bosnia), the focus is on the chefs and their personal stories. VERDICT Rather than a cookbook, this is a readable introduction to the diversity of the modern Southern table. Highly recommended for regional cooking collections.—Ginny Wolter, Toledo-Lucas Cty. P.L., OH

Library Journal