Read an Excerpt
By Rae Morris, Jason Capobianco
Allen & UnwinCopyright © 2012 Rae Morris
All rights reserved.
How you age
First, ageing is not a bad thing. It's kind of fabulous — a lot of people become much better looking as they get older. You don't want to peak too early! But there's a big difference between ageing and deteriorating (sorry, but I did warn you I would be blunt). Ageing is part of life, but how you do it, and how you feel and look, is up to you.
As you age, you'll experience some changes that are common to everyone, although some factors will depend on your genetic inheritance and lifestyle as well as the environment.
Here are some of the general signs of ageing.
Temples become more concave.
Hollows develop beneath the eyes and cheekbones.
The jaw line becomes jowly and droopy.
The neck becomes heavily lined, while the décolletage cops a continual beating from the elements. Depending on your age and skin type, your chest can become very red, freckled, lined and pigmented.
Eyebrows become sparser and coarser, and lashes thinner.
Hands become wrinkly, and veins and any signs of sun damage become more visible.
Age spots appear on the hands and arms, which are often unflatteringly referred to as 'salami arms' — bet you won't be ordering that at the deli again!
Now before you get too depressed, save it — there's more to come ...
Pigmentation and age spots may appear on the face.
The face may be constantly red as a result of broken capillaries and sun damage.
The corners of the mouth droop.
Eyelids become droopy.
The brow bone becomes more pronounced, and the lips and the skin around the mouth lined.
Phew ... how do you feel now? How effectively is the old 'I'm beautiful on the inside' line holding you together?
Now you may be genetically blessed and have none of these problems, but most of us have to take corrective measures to minimise the signs of ageing. Don't worry, it just comes down to:
management, which includes treatment (see Non-surgical cosmetic techniques) and illusion (refer to 'Beyond makeup'); and, of course,
You should also be aware that there are some specific differences in the way men and women age — it's not a level playing field. For example, women age more than men in the chest area. This is because men have hair on their necks and chests, and every hair follicle contains an oil gland that keeps the skin soft and supple. Also, hair is a great sunscreen, which brings me to my next point — even when women apply sunscreen to their décolletage, what do they do next? That's right, they spray on perfume (pretty much pure alcohol), which immediately makes the sunscreen ineffective and dries out and thins their skin at the same time!
Look 10 years younger
There is so much you can do to make yourself look younger if you just get a few simple things right. But first you have to break the old habits that don't work for you any more and replace them with new ones that will instantly take years off how you look.
When I started thinking about this book, I paid even more attention to how older women do their makeup, dress and accessorise, and I couldn't help noticing that my attention was drawn to four key areas — the earlobes, décolletage, hands and mouth. These areas age obviously, and here is the epiphany I had ... where do most women wear bling? Yes, on their earlobes, décolletage and hands. And if they throw on some bright red lipstick, they hit the jackpot, drawing attention to all the bits that give away their age the most.
Here's how you can use makeup to optimise the way you look — not only to disguise the signs of ageing but also to enhance your best features.
If you ever wear frosty white eye shadow, it just has to go. The '80s are over, and they just ain't coming back. This product is like putting a magnifying glass on problem areas and highlighting them. Special effects makeup artists use it to make skin look more wrinkled, puffy and scaley. So just imagine what effect it will have on your appearance if you have puffy, heavy, hooded eyelids!
If you're lined around the eyes, use only rich, beautiful matte shades — definitely no shimmer!
Matching your eye shadow shade to your eye colour is so important — that's why we've put so much detail into the eye colour charts. Use these as your 'bible' when buying eye makeup.
You also have to let go of the fluorescent blues and glitter eyeliners if you use them. Think sophistication and elegance instead. And avoid old-school cream eye shadows altogether — they crease within seconds and give you oily eyelids.
As you age, your eyes become more watery, so you'll need to start using waterproof products, such as waterproof mascara, so your eye makeup doesn't run.
Eyelashes rock! As you get older, they tend to become sparser, but you can't let this happen. Now that you can get eyelash extensions that last up to six weeks, you don't need to apply mascara or attempt false lashes (see Apply the false lashes).
Eyes tend to droop, which means the inner rim of the eye becomes more exposed. Therefore it's essential not to apply harsh eyeliner under your lower lash line, as this will accentuate any drooping and drag your eyes down even more.
As you age, your brow bone becomes more prominent and your lids become heavier and hooded, so arching your brows actually makes you look older.
As you get older, it's really important to avoid heavy, cakey foundation. And go easy on the powder, as it can make your skin look quite flat and dead. Your skin can lose its glow as you age, and you don't want to accentuate this, so stick with sheer translucent powders and steer clear of anything with beige or pink undertones, as these will age you ridiculously!
If your face is naturally a bit red, first apply a good foundation to disguise the redness and give you an even canvas to work on. Then apply the cheek colour in the right place, nice and high, to achieve that healthy, youthful look. Never smile when applying blush, because when you do so:
your cheeks lift, so when you stop smiling your blush will be closer to your jaw; and
your face wrinkles. If you apply blush to a wrinkled area, you won't get into the wrinkle creases, thus accentuating them. Applying blush while smiling is another technique makeup artists use to create lines, so make sure you avoid it.
Your makeup shouldn't stop with your face. For example, if you're wearing a low-cut dress, use a powdered mineral foundation on your décolletage, preferably one containing sunscreen — it will even out the skin beautifully and is perfect for the sensitive, finer skin in this region. And it's also less likely to rub off onto your clothes.
Please make sure there are no eyebrows on your lips, ladies! Eyebrows should only be above your eyes. If there is even the hint of a stray hair anywhere else, get rid of it! Your tweezers should be your best friend.
If you have the luxury of beautifully shaped lips with minimal lines, you can choose any colour lipstick that suits your skin tone, but avoid anything glittery, frosty or metallic, as these actually accentuate wrinkling — your lips aren't a neon billboard! If you use a lip liner, colour in the whole lip, don't just trace the outline. If you outline your lips, and colour in with a lipstick, the lipstick will wear off first, leaving the outline, and no one wants to look like Bobo the clown, do they?
Always test lipstick on your fingertip, which has the same texture and colour as your lip. Your fingertip has a blue-red tone, whereas the back of your hand (where most women test colours) is a neutral tone, so it will make the shade appear brighter and richer than when it is applied to your lips.
Use the 'one wipe test' — that is, one wipe of the lipstick to get the colour intensity you're after. If you have to do more than this, it's not the right lipstick for you. The more lipstick you put on, the more likely it is to run — remember, 'more on the mouth goes south'.
With today's ever-changing technology, there is also a range of non-invasive medical procedures (see Non-surgical cosmetic techniques) that can reduce the signs of ageing and significantly improve your 'canvas'.
At the end of the day, it's about feeling as good about yourself as you possibly can. Being confident in your appearance affects how you feel about yourself and therefore the way you face the world. It's that important.CHAPTER 2
Essential makeup kit
Many of us have makeup kits that are an assortment of bits and pieces and the odd application tool. Chances are most of the makeup will be either out of fashion or past its use-by date. If any of your makeup is more than two years old, throw it out!
The first step towards getting your makeup right is to have the right tools. It's better to buy a small range of the right makeup and spend less on disposable items such as lipstick, and use the money you've saved to invest in better brushes.
Good quality tools give you the control you need to do your makeup properly, and they'll last for years. I've spent decades searching the world for the best tools for my profession, but as I haven't always been able to find them, I've developed my own brush range. A brush must have the right fibres in the right density and shape. We'll cover this in detail in the brush section (see Brushes), but to make it easier, visit www.raemorris.com to see what I use every day.
Keep it simple
As most women get older, they use fewer or no products on their face, or heaps more stuff than they've ever used before. To get the right look, and for a longer lasting makeup, you should simplify the products you use. Choosing one product that does it all — for example, a combined foundation, moisturiser and sunscreen — rather than several individual ones, makes it much easier (and quicker) to attain the final finish.
It's also worth looking for concentrated products — such as lipstick that goes on in one swipe, and rich black mascara that goes on with one stroke — so you can avoid multiple applications that create a 'caked on' effect.
Essential touch-up kit
Keep these key items in your handbag at all times so you can touch up your makeup when you're out and about.
Concealer This comes in a small tube, so it's easy to carry. Think of it as concentrated foundation, the ultimate weapon for hiding the things you don't want others to see. Use a little on a small brush to hide blemishes and dark circles under your eyes, and to clean up any runny mascara or lipstick bleeds.
Foundation If you have enough room in your bag, carry some foundation, otherwise just go with concealer. I put mine in a small container.
Blotting papers These little miracles are great to have if you start to develop a 'greasy glow', as they'll remove all the shine, leaving your foundation untouched, and allowing you to refresh your makeup.
Eye pencil Carry any eye pencil you may have used on the inner rim of your eyes (as the eyes water, they will need constant touching up).
Lipstick Lipstick always fades, so it will need the occasional touch up.
Blush It's better to put on the right amount of blush in the first place, then touch up all day, than to put on too much and hope it lasts the distance.
Hand cream Keep your hands soft and supple with regular applications of hand cream.
Sunscreen Always use sunscreen on your face, hands and chest. Imagine attending an outdoor wedding reception without any sun protection — a beetroot-red face is not a good look, especially when you're wearing a glamorous red frock!
Full makeup kit
Now let's talk about the makeup kit essentials that you keep at home. On the following pages you'll find all you need, from blotting papers and primers to lipsticks and eyelash curlers.
FACE AND BODY SCRUB
Seriously, the best facial/body scrub in the world is so exclusive, you can't buy it retail! It also happens to be the cheapest — you just make it yourself. Simply mix together equal parts of bicarbonate of soda and any good quality water-based cleanser you can buy from your pharmacy.
For your face, use about half a teaspoon of each; for your whole body, increase it to a handful of each. Combine it with a bit of warm water and you're ready to go. This is the mix recommended by many dermatologists as a gentle, non-reactant exfoliant, so don't be afraid to get between your eyebrows and over your lips.
Exfoliate your skin no more than once a week, and do not exfoliate at all if you are using chemical peeling creams or any products that contain AHAs, Retin As or BHAs, as these remove the upper layers of your skin. Using an exfoliant would be overkill, plus it would damn well hurt! If you're receiving treatment from a dermatologist, always check with him or her before using any exfoliant.
Use non-alcoholic, non-perfumed baby wipes, which contain few or no chemicals, so there's less risk of skin reactions. I use them daily to help remove oil before I start applying makeup, and also to help clean up any flakes of eye shadow that drop under the eyes.
These are great if you have oily skin or tend to perspire excessively. Make sure you buy the non- powdered version, otherwise they'll change the colour of your foundation. If you like to powder your foundation, blot your skin first to remove excess oil before powdering, as it's the build-up of oil that creates the 'cakey' look. It's simple — the less oil on your skin, the less powder will stick.
This is basically a moisturiser that contains extra silicone and glycerine, which levels out any uneven skin texture, allowing you to apply foundation a lot more evenly. If you're going to use a primer, don't use a moisturiser, because you'll just be doubling up. Using more than one product under foundation won't allow your skin to absorb it, so it will separate and look patchy.I recommend water-based primers because, as you'll see, all the foundations I prefer are water-based and mix together beautifully. You can also get 'anti-red' primers that help reduce redness.
You don't have to spend lots of money on makeup brushes. For top quality brushes in my ultimate brush roll, go to my website (www.raemorris.com) and buy them online. To test a brush you already have, stand it on its tip on the back of your hand — if the bristles collapse, replace the brush.
Double-ended foundation brush
The rounded end of the Foundation/Angle Contour brush is great for applying liquid-based foundation, while the angled end is perfect for contouring with cream- or grease-based products. The bristles don't absorb much product, thus reducing wastage.
Use the Concealer Brush to apply all types of concealers, especially to the under-eye area. Its non-absorbent bristles minimise product wastage. You can also use it as a lip brush and to apply liquid or grease-based eye shadows for the wet lid look.
The fantastic Micro-fibre Foundation brush makes liquid and mineral/powder foundation look flawless. The white fibres absorb the foundation while the black ones polish it in, so you don't need to keep loading up with product. To create the illusion of a thinner leg, use it with body highlighter but only apply a stroke down the front of the leg. You can also use it to even out a fake tan or to apply a wash of foundation to your hands and feet in order to reduce the visibility of veins.
Designed for the finest eyeliners, the hook on the Precision Bent-liner makes it easy to apply liquid or gel eyeliner to the inner corner of the eye while you steady your hand on the face. It can also be used for very fine concealing, or to create the finest brow hairs and under-eye lashes. Use the Perfect Eyeliner brush to apply fine - to medium-width eyeliner (think Audrey Hepburn) or to create beauty spots. It's also a great brush to use for precision concealing.
Combined mascara wand/angle brush
This is my number one brush, and I couldn't do makeup without it. Use the Mascara Definer to apply mascara and groom your eyebrows. Use the Angle end to apply the perfect eyeliner flick, to apply fine hair strokes to the sparse areas of the brow, and to define your brow (it's perfect for tapering off the brow line). If your lipstick starts to bleed, dip the angled end in some foundation, then retrace the outline of your lips.
Excerpted from Timeless Makeup by Rae Morris, Jason Capobianco. Copyright © 2012 Rae Morris. Excerpted by permission of Allen & Unwin.
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