Tom Douglas' Seattle Kitchenby Tom Douglas, Duskie Estes, Shelley Lance, Denis Kelly
There's a new culinary melting pot. It's called Seattle. Here you'll find everything from Japanese bento box lunches and Thai satays to steaming bowls of Vietnamese soups and all-American blackberry cobblers. No chef embodies this diversity with more flair and more flavor than chef/author/restaurateur Tom Douglas. And no book does it better than Tom Douglas'
There's a new culinary melting pot. It's called Seattle. Here you'll find everything from Japanese bento box lunches and Thai satays to steaming bowls of Vietnamese soups and all-American blackberry cobblers. No chef embodies this diversity with more flair and more flavor than chef/author/restaurateur Tom Douglas. And no book does it better than Tom Douglas' Seattle Kitchen.
Tom's creativity with local ingredients and his respect for Seattle's ethnic traditions have helped put his three restaurants and Seattle on the national culinary map. Join Tom and celebrate the Emerald City's rich culinary tradition: sweet I Dungeness crabs, razor clams, rich artisan cheeses, and deeply flavored Northwest beers. Share in the delight of sophisticated Washington wines, coffee fresh vegetables, fruits, and the exotic flavors of the Pacific Rim countries.
Tom Douglas' style is laid-back sophistication with a dash of humor. You can see it in the names of his chapters, "Starch Stacking," "Slow Dancing," and "Mo' Poke, Dadu" (this last title, courtesy of his daughter, Loretta, means "More Pork, Daddy"). And you can taste it in his signature dishes such as Dungeness Crabcakes with Green Cocktail Sauce, Roast Duck with Huckleberry Sauce and Parsnip-Apple Hash, Udon with Sea Scallops in Miso Broth, and Triple Cream Coconut Pie.
Try his hearty Long-Bone Short Ribs with Chinook Merlot Gravy and Rosemary WhiteBeans or spicy Fire-roasted Oysters with Ginger Threads and Wasabi Butter. Relax in the comfort of the comfort foods he prepares for his own family: Loretta's Buttermilk Pancakes with Wild Blackberries, Basic Barbecued Baby Back Ribs, and Five-Spice Angel Food Cake. They're all clear, simple recipes that'll have you cooking like Tom Douglas from the very first page.
But this is more than a cookbook; it's a food lover's guide to Seattle. Join Tom on a tour of his city with his list of top ten best things to do and eat in Seattle, from his favorite ethnic markets and neighborhoods to where to get the best breakfast.
Why not turn your kitchen into a Seattle kitchen? All it takes is a little help and inspiration from Tom Douglas.
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Read an Excerpt
Dungeness Crabcakes With Green Cocktail Sauce
Makes 8 appetizer or 4 entr�e servings
I brought this East Coast version of crabcakes with me when I moved here from Delaware about twenty-two years ago, but of course in Seattle I make them with the Northwest's sweet and delicious Dungeness crabmeat. Some modern versions of crabcakes are mostly crabmeat lightly bound with egg, but I'm a firm believer that a crabcake should contain bread crumbs. Bread crumbs made from cheap white bread are a key ingredient here: Ordinary store-bought white bread gives the crabcake just the right texture. And, of course, you need perfectly fresh, pristine crabmeat with plenty of big chunks of claw and leg meat.
At both Dahlia Lounge and Etta's Seafood, Dungeness crabcakes is one of our most popular dishes and most requested recipes. Since this is a signature dish, we tend to be a little secretive about the recipe, but, what the hey, here it is.
At Etta's the crabcakes come with French fries, coleslaw, and green cocktail sauce. At Dahlia Lounge we change the presentation often -- for example, they can be served with butternut-squash hash and an apple salad with Tabasco vinaigrette.
10 slices supermarket white bread (about 1/2 loaf)
3/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 large egg yolk (see Note, Page 24)
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce
7 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon celery seeds
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound fresh cooked Dungeness crabmeat, picked
over for bits ofshell and cartilage with claw meat
and large pieces of crab left whole
1/4 cup chopped onions
1/4 cup seeded and chopped green bell peppers
1/4 cup seeded and chopped red bell peppers
Unsalted butter for panfrying, about 6 tablespoons
Green Cocktail Sauce (recipe follows)
4 to 8 lemon wedges
1. Tear up the white bread and pulse the pieces in a food processor to make fine, soft crumbs. (You should have about 6 cups crumbs.) Remove the bread crumbs to a shallow pan and mix in 1/2 cup of the chopped parsley (reserve the remaining 1/4 cup for the crabcake mixture). Set aside.
2. In a food processor, combine the egg yolk, lemon juice, Worcestershire, Tabasco, mustard, paprika, thyme, celery seeds, and black pepper and pulse to combine. With the motor running, slowly add the oil through the feed tube in a steady stream until the mixture emulsifies and forms a mayonnaise. Remove the mayonnaise from the food processor and refrigerate.
3. Place the crabmeat in a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a bowl. Pull the cheesecloth tightly around the crabmeat and squeeze out as much juice as possible. Place the chopped onions and bell peppers in a sieve set over a bowl and use your hands to squeeze out as much juice as possible. In a large bowl, combine the onions and bell peppers with the remaining 1/4 cup parsley. Add the chilled mayonnaise and crabmeat and toss lightly to combine. Add 1 cup of the bread crumb-parsley mixture and combine. Do not overwork the mixture or the crabcakes may get gummy. Gently form 8 patties and roll the patties lightly in the remaining bread crumb-parsley mixture. Leave the crabcakes in the pan of bread crumbs until you saut� them.
4. Preheat the oven to 425�F. Using a nonstick saut� pan and butter as needed, panfry the crabcakes, in batches, until golden brown on both sides and place them on a baking sheet as they are browned. When all the crabcakes are browned, put them in the oven until they are heated all the way through, 5 to 8 minutes.
On The Plate
Serve one crabcake as an appetizer or two as an entr�e. Serve with a ramekin of cocktail sauce and a lemon wedge.
A Step Ahead
The crabcakes actually hold together better if prepared a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator before cooking. Store them in the pan of bread crumbs, covered with plastic wrap.
In The Glass
A lightly oaked Chardonnay
Triple Coconut Cream Pie
Makes one 9-inch pie; 6 to 8 servings
Who would have thought that this pie would be a best-seller twelve years in a row? We call it triple coconut cream pie because there is coconut in the pastry filling, coconut in the crust, and more coconut on top. To garnish the pie at the restaurant, we toast unsweetened coconut, which is available in very large, attractive "chips," and shave big curls of white chocolate over the top. You may be able to find unsweetened coconut chips or large-shred coconut in a natural foods store or in the bulk section of your supermarket. This recipe is adapted from our friend Jim Dodge's fine book American Baker (Simon & Schuster, 1987).
For The Coconut Pastry Cream
2 cups milk
2 cups sweetened shredded coconut
1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise
2 large eggs
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened
For The Pie
One 9-inch Coconut Pie Shell (page 218),
�prebaked and cooled
2 1/2 cups heavy cream, chilled
1/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 ounces unsweetened "chip" or large-shred coconut
�(about 11/2 cups) or sweetened shredded coconut
Chunks of white chocolate (4 to 6 ounces, to make
�2 ounces Of curls)
1. To make the pastry cream, combine the milk and coconut in a medium saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add both the seeds and pod to the milk mixture. Place the saucepan over medium-high heat and stir occasionally until the mixture almost comes to a boil.
2. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, and flour until well combined. Temper the eggs (to keep them from scrambling) by pouring a small amount (about 1/3 Cup) of the scalded milk into the egg mixture while whisking. Then add the warmed egg mixture to the saucepan of milk and coconut. Whisk over medium-high heat until the pastry cream thickens and begins to bubble. Keep whisking until the mixture is very thick, 4 to 5 minutes more. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Add the butter and whisk until it melts. Remove and discard the vanilla pod. Transfer the pastry cream to a bowl and place it over a bowl of ice water. Stir occasionally until it is cool. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pastry cream to prevent a crust from forming and refrigerate until completely cold. The pastry cream will thicken as it cools.
3. When the pastry cream is cold, fill the prebaked pie shell with it, smoothing the surface. In an electric mixer with the whisk, whip the heavy cream with the sugar and vanilla on medium speed. Gradually increase the speed to high and whip to peaks that are firm enough to hold their shape. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a star tip with the whipped cream and pipe it all over the surface of the pie, or spoon it over.
4. For the garnish, preheat the oven to 350�F. Spread the coconut chips on a baking sheet and toast in the oven, watching carefully and stirring once or twice, since coconut burns easily, until lightly browned, 7 to 8 minutes. Use a vegetable peeler to scrape about 2 ounces of the white chocolate into curls.
On The Plate
Cut the pie into 6 to 8 wedges and place on dessert plates. Decorate each wedge of pie with white chocolate curls and the toasted coconut.
A Step Ahead
If not serving immediately, keep the pie refrigerated, covered with plastic wrap. The finished pie should be consumed within a day. Prepare the garnishes just before serving. The coconut pastry cream can be made a day ahead and stored chilled in the refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap as described above. Fill the pie shell and top it with whipped cream and garnishes when you are ready to serve the pie.
In The Glass
Mouscato d'Asti, a delicious sweet sparkling white Muscat from Piedmont
Coconut Pie Shell
Makes one 9-inch shell
In this recipe you need to blind-bake the pie shell: bake an unfilled pastry-lined pan. If you don't have special pie weights, use dried beans to weight the crust to keep it from puffing up during baking. You can store your pie beans in a jar and use them over and over.
Very cold butter will give you a flakier crust. Put the diced butter in the freezer for 10 minutes before making your dough.
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 cup sweetened shredded coconut
1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 cup ice water, or more as needed
1. In a food processor, combine the flour, coconut, diced butter, sugar, and salt. Pulse to form coarse crumbs. Gradually add the water, a tablespoon at a time, pulsing each time. Use only as much water as is needed for the dough to hold together when gently pressed between your fingers; don't work the dough with your hands, just test it to see if it is holding. The dough will not form a ball or even clump together in the processor -- it will still be quite loose.
2. Place a large sheet of plastic wrap on the counter and dump the coconut dough onto it. Pull the plastic wrap around the dough, forcing it into a rough flattened round with the pressure of the plastic wrap. Chill for 30 minutes to an hour before rolling.
3. To roll out the dough, unwrap the round of coconut dough and put it on a lightly floured work board. Flour the rolling pin and your hands. Roll the dough out into a circle about 1/8 inch thick. Lift the dough with a board scraper occasionally to check that it is not sticking and add more flour if it seems about to stick. Trim to a 12- to 13-inch circle.
4. Transfer the rolled dough to a 9-inch pie pan. Ease the dough loosely and gently into the pan. You don't want to stretch the dough at this point because it will shrink when it is baked. Trim any excess dough to a I- to 1 1/2-inch overhang. Turn the dough under along the rim of the pie pan and use your finger to flute the edge. Chill the unbaked pie shell at least an hour before baking. This step prevents the dough from shrinking in the oven.
5. When you are ready to bake the piecrust, preheat the oven to 400�F. Place a sheet of aluminum foil or parchment paper in the pie shell and fill with dried beans. Bake the piecrust until the pastry rim is golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the pie pan from the oven. Remove the foil and beans and return the piecrust to the oven. Bake until the bottom of the crust has golden-brown patches, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool before filling.
A Step Ahead
The dough can be wrapped in plastic and stored in the refrigerator for a day or two, or frozen for a few weeks. Also the dough can be rolled out and fitted into a pie pan, and the unbaked pie shell can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated or frozen for the same amounts of time. Frozen pie shells can be baked directly out of the freezer, without thawing; the baking times will be a bit longer.
Meet the Author
Tom Douglas, winner of the 2012 James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurateur, is the chef/owner of thirteen of Seattle's most popular restaurants as well as the Dahlia Bakery, home to the much-loved Triple Coconut Cream Pie.
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