Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit
“An indictment of our modern agricultural system . . . in the tradition of the best muckraking journalism” from the three-time James Beard Award-winner (The Washington Post).

In Tomatoland, investigative food journalist Barry Estabrook reveals the huge human and environmental cost of the $5 billion fresh tomato industry. He traces the supermarket tomato from its birthplace in the deserts of Peru to the impoverished town of Immokalee, Florida, a.k.a. the tomato capital of the United States. He visits the laboratories of seedsmen trying to develop varieties that can withstand the rigors of agribusiness and still taste like a garden tomato, and then moves on to commercial growers who operate on tens of thousands of acres, and eventually to a hillside field in Pennsylvania, where he meets an obsessed farmer who produces delectable tomatoes for the nation’s top restaurants.

Throughout Tomatoland Estabrook presents a who’s who cast of characters in the tomato industry: the avuncular octogenarian whose conglomerate grows one out of every eight tomatoes eaten in the United States; the ex-Marine who heads the group that dictates the size, color, and shape of every tomato shipped out of Florida; the U.S. attorney who has doggedly prosecuted human traffickers for the past decade; and the Guatemalan peasant who came north to earn money for his parents’ medical bills and found himself enslaved for two years.

Tomatoland reads like a suspenseful whodunit and is “at its most potent and scathing in its portrayal of South Florida’s tomato growers and their tactics over the past half-century” (The New York Times).

“An important and readable book.” —The Atlantic
1126946460
Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit
“An indictment of our modern agricultural system . . . in the tradition of the best muckraking journalism” from the three-time James Beard Award-winner (The Washington Post).

In Tomatoland, investigative food journalist Barry Estabrook reveals the huge human and environmental cost of the $5 billion fresh tomato industry. He traces the supermarket tomato from its birthplace in the deserts of Peru to the impoverished town of Immokalee, Florida, a.k.a. the tomato capital of the United States. He visits the laboratories of seedsmen trying to develop varieties that can withstand the rigors of agribusiness and still taste like a garden tomato, and then moves on to commercial growers who operate on tens of thousands of acres, and eventually to a hillside field in Pennsylvania, where he meets an obsessed farmer who produces delectable tomatoes for the nation’s top restaurants.

Throughout Tomatoland Estabrook presents a who’s who cast of characters in the tomato industry: the avuncular octogenarian whose conglomerate grows one out of every eight tomatoes eaten in the United States; the ex-Marine who heads the group that dictates the size, color, and shape of every tomato shipped out of Florida; the U.S. attorney who has doggedly prosecuted human traffickers for the past decade; and the Guatemalan peasant who came north to earn money for his parents’ medical bills and found himself enslaved for two years.

Tomatoland reads like a suspenseful whodunit and is “at its most potent and scathing in its portrayal of South Florida’s tomato growers and their tactics over the past half-century” (The New York Times).

“An important and readable book.” —The Atlantic
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Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit

Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit

Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit

Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit

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Overview

“An indictment of our modern agricultural system . . . in the tradition of the best muckraking journalism” from the three-time James Beard Award-winner (The Washington Post).

In Tomatoland, investigative food journalist Barry Estabrook reveals the huge human and environmental cost of the $5 billion fresh tomato industry. He traces the supermarket tomato from its birthplace in the deserts of Peru to the impoverished town of Immokalee, Florida, a.k.a. the tomato capital of the United States. He visits the laboratories of seedsmen trying to develop varieties that can withstand the rigors of agribusiness and still taste like a garden tomato, and then moves on to commercial growers who operate on tens of thousands of acres, and eventually to a hillside field in Pennsylvania, where he meets an obsessed farmer who produces delectable tomatoes for the nation’s top restaurants.

Throughout Tomatoland Estabrook presents a who’s who cast of characters in the tomato industry: the avuncular octogenarian whose conglomerate grows one out of every eight tomatoes eaten in the United States; the ex-Marine who heads the group that dictates the size, color, and shape of every tomato shipped out of Florida; the U.S. attorney who has doggedly prosecuted human traffickers for the past decade; and the Guatemalan peasant who came north to earn money for his parents’ medical bills and found himself enslaved for two years.

Tomatoland reads like a suspenseful whodunit and is “at its most potent and scathing in its portrayal of South Florida’s tomato growers and their tactics over the past half-century” (The New York Times).

“An important and readable book.” —The Atlantic

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781449493233
Publisher: Andrews McMeel Publishing
Publication date: 10/05/2021
Sold by: Barnes & Noble
Format: eBook
Pages: 244
File size: 6 MB

About the Author

About The Author
Youthful stints doing slug labor on a Midwestern dairy farm (hot!) and being tossed about on a commercial fishing boat off  Nova Scotia (frigid!) taught Estabrook that writing about how food is produced is a hell of a lot easier than actually producing it. For several blissful years, he received a steady paycheck from the late, lamented Gourmet magazine. His writing has also appeared in the New York Times, Eating Well, Smithsonian, Reader’s Digest, Saveur, Epicurious, OnEarth, and AtlanticLife.com. He also blogs at www.politicsoftheplate.com. He has won the prestigious Migrant Justice Award and three James Beard Awards and lives on a 30-acre plot in Vermont where he putters around in a large vegetable garden (a great place for a procrastinating writer), tends a small flock of laying hens, makes maple syrup, and brews some of the vilest hard cider on the planet.

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments xi

Introduction: On the Tomato Trail xiii

Roots 1

A Tomato Grows in Florida 17

Chemical Warfare 35

From the Hands of a Slave 73

An Unfair Fight 97

A Penny per Pound 121

Matters of Taste 139

Building a Better Tomato 153

Tomatoman 169

Wild Things 185

Afterword: New World, Old Challenge 189

Notes 198

Bibliography 212

Index 214

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"[A] thought-provoking book." —-Publishers Weekly

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