Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen

( 4 )


I love supper. It’s friendly and relaxed. It’s easy to invite people over for supper, for there’s a quality of comfort that isn’t always there with dinner, a meal that suggests more serious culinary expectations—truly a joy to meet, but not all the time. Supper, on the other hand, is for when friends happen to run into each other at the farmers’ market or drop in from out of town. Supper is for Sunday night or a Thursday. Supper can be impromptu, it can be potluck, and it can break the formality of a classic ...

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I love supper. It’s friendly and relaxed. It’s easy to invite people over for supper, for there’s a quality of comfort that isn’t always there with dinner, a meal that suggests more serious culinary expectations—truly a joy to meet, but not all the time. Supper, on the other hand, is for when friends happen to run into each other at the farmers’ market or drop in from out of town. Supper is for Sunday night or a Thursday. Supper can be impromptu, it can be potluck, and it can break the formality of a classic menu. With supper, there’s a willingness to make do with what’s available and to cook and eat simply. It can also be special and beautifully crafted if that’s what you want.
from the Introduction

The author of the bestselling cookbook classic, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, solves the perennial question of what to cook for dinner in her first collection of suppertime solutions, with more than 100 inspiring recipes to enjoy every night of the week.

What’s for supper? For vegetarians and health-conscious nonvegetarians, the quest for recipes that don’t call for meat often can seem daunting. Focusing on recipes for a relaxing evening, Deborah Madison has created an innovative array of main dishes for casual dining. Unfussy but creative, the recipes in Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison’s Kitchen will bring joy to your table in the form of simple, wholesome, and delicious main dish meals.

These are recipes to savor throughout the week—quick weekday meals as well as more leisurely weekend or company fare—and throughout the year. The emphasis is on freshness and seasonality in recipes for savory pies and gratins, vegetable stews and braises, pasta and vegetable dishes, crepes and fritters, delicious new ways to use tofu and tempeh, egg dishes that make a supper, hearty cool-weather as well as light warm-weather meals, and a delightful assortment of sandwich suppers.

Recipes include such imaginative and irresistible dishes as Masa Crêpes with Chard, Chiles, and Cilantro; Spicy Tofu with Thai Basil and Coconut Rice Cakes; Lemony Risotto Croquettes with Slivered Snow Peas, Asparagus, and Leeks; and Gnocchi with Winter Squash and Seared Radicchio.

Vegan variations are given throughout, so whether you are a committed vegetarian or a “vegophile” like Deborah Madison herself, you’ll find recipes in this wonderful new collection you will want to cook again and again.

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Editorial Reviews

From the Publisher
Praise for Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison’s Kitchen

“Deborah Madison, a wizard with fresh produce, offers one appealing recipe after another in Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison’s Kitchen.”
New York Times

“Celebrated vegetarian chef Madison’s latest warmly-written gem offers everything from quickie suppers to subtle, sophisticated dinner party dishes while encouraging local, seasonal eating and unfussy kitchen artisanship . . . a wonderful addition to any vegetarian or ‘vegophile’ kitchen.”
Publishers Weekly

“Madison’s latest book is loaded with accessible, inspired, casual recipes for vegetarian supppers.”
— EatingWell

“Deborah Madison has done for vegetarian meals what the television show Extreme Makeover has done for the dowdy: transform them into something sexy and appealing. She’s done it with a combination of relaxed charm, a warmly reassuring writing style, and reliable recipes.”
— Washington Post

Publishers Weekly
Celebrated vegetarian chef Madison's latest warmly written gem offers everything from quickie suppers to subtle, sophisticated dinner-party dishes while encouraging local, seasonal eating and unfussy kitchen artisanship. Her earthy, vigorous Pasta and Chickpeas with Plenty of Parsley and Garlic comes together in a flash, and is enlivened by the addition of Beluga lentils, a suggestion she makes in her "Variations" column. (It will also convince anyone that whole wheat pasta can be delicious.) The Onion and Rosemary Tart with Fromage Blanc is rich, creamy and gorgeously smooth, with a crisp and flavorful shell. And the Brussels Sprout and Mushroom Ragout with Herb Dumplings employs fresh tarragon to brilliant effect (it flavors both the ragout and the dumplings) to make a kind of sophisticated comfort food that's only slightly too heavy on the sprouts. And if Winter Squash Lasagna with Sage, Walnuts and Black Kale seems too ambitious for a Tuesday night, there's always Wine-Braised Lentils Over Toast or even a Fried-Egg Sandwich. Madison's recipes do call for good kitchen gear (Dutch ovens, double-boilers, numerous gratin pans and casseroles) and some hard-to-find ingredients (fromage blanc, blanched nettles, Thai basil), but they're flexible enough to allow for substitutions. Though not as broad as Madison's James Beard-winning Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone nor as detailed as her classic The Greens Cookbook, this volume is a wonderful addition to any vegetarian or "vegophile" kitchen. (On sale Mar. 29) Copyright 2005 Reed Business Information.
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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780767924726
  • Publisher: Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed/Harmony
  • Publication date: 11/6/2007
  • Edition description: Reprint
  • Pages: 240
  • Sales rank: 273,712
  • Product dimensions: 8.16 (w) x 9.10 (h) x 0.60 (d)

Meet the Author

Deborah Madison’s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone and The Savory Way, each earned the IACP’s Julia Child Cookbook of the Year award. Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone also received a James Beard Award, as did Local Flavors, her most recent book. She is also the author of the James Beard Award nominee This Can’t Be Tofu! and The Greens Cookbook, which is now a classic. She lives in Galisteo, New Mexico.

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Read an Excerpt

over smoky potatoes

serves 2 to 4

Start the potatoes, then finish the dish by cracking the eggs over them and finishing them in the oven or on top of the stove.

That smoky Spanish pimentón does wonders for foods that might otherwise be cooked with sausage, such as these eggs and potatoes, inspired by a recipe in Marie Simmons’s book The Good Egg. While you can finish the eggs on the stove, I think it makes an especially handsome presentation if you transfer the potatoes to a shallow-sided earthernware gratin dish, bake the eggs in the oven, and bring the whole, gorgeous dish to the table. This recipe is as easy to make for one as it is for a crowd.

A bit intense for an early-morning breakfast perhaps, these lusty eggs are great for supper at any time of year. In summer I’d serve them with sautéed peppers and in winter with a lively salad of cauliflower, green olives, and green peppers, ending with a cooling orange compote for dessert. For wine, stay with the Spanish influence and choose a Ribera del Duero for a red, or an Albariño for a white.

Start the potatoes, then finish the dish by cracking the eggs over them and finishing them in the oven or on top of the stove.

approximately 2 pounds potatoes, any variety, peeled and cut into 1⁄2-inch dice
2 tablespoons olive oil sea salt
1⁄2 to 1 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón), to taste
1 garlic clove, minced
4 scallions, including a few inches of the greens, thinly sliced
4 or more eggs minced parsley to finish

1. If you’re using russet or baking potatoes, put them in cold water as you work to draw out some of the starch. Drain them and blot them dry before cooking.

2. Heat the oil in a large, well-seasoned cast-iron or nonstick skillet. Add the poatoes to the pan and cook over medium heat, turning them every so often so they brown on all sides. When they’re tender, after 15 minutes or so, season them with salt, toss them with the smoked paprika, garlic, and scallions, and cook for 1 minute more.

3. Break the eggs over the potatoes. You can add more as long as there is room for them. Cover the pan and cook over medium-low heat until the whites are set, about 5 minutes, or longer, if you want the yolk to set as well. Sprinkle with the parsely and serve.

Or preheat the oven to 375°F and transfer the potatoes to a lightly oiled terra-cotta gratin dish. Break the eggs over them, then bake until set and as done as you like, 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish with the parsley and serve in their dish.

Feta and Ricotta Cheese
skillet pie

serves 4

There’s no crust, but you can’t argue with this handsome pie, which is rimmed with the black edge of the cast-iron skillet rather than with pastry. It’s excellent for those seeking protein-rich dishes, and it’s so quick to put together you’ll have to wait for your oven to heat up.

Serve this skillet pie in wedges with sides that match the season. In summer, look to roasted peppers plus a few olives; in spring, a shaved fennel salad; in winter, luscious braised black kale. This also makes a good appetizer, served, of course, in smaller portions, or part of a mezze plate (page 162). A lusty Zinfandel from Sonoma would partner well with the cheese.

3⁄4 pound feta cheese, preferably sheep’s milk
1 pound ricotta cheese
4 to 6 eggs
1⁄4 cup flour
3⁄4 cup milk sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon chopped dill

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Mix three-quarters of the feta with the ricotta in a medium bowl, without worrying about getting it perfectly smooth–you’ll want some chunks. Beat the eggs into the cheese, then add the flour and milk. Season with 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, pepper, and dill.

2. Butter a 10-inch cast-iron skillet or an earthenware baking dish. Pour in the batter and crumble the remaining cheese over the top. Bake until golden, 35 to 40 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve with your chosen garnish.

Sautéed Heirloom Tomatoes
on garlic-rubbed toast

serves 2

Here’s a tasty little supper for listless eaters on a hot night. For tomatoes I pick what’s in my garden, which is likely to be a mixture of ripe red Sweet 100s, orange Sun Golds, Green Zebras, and a yellow heirloom or two. These briefly cooked tomatoes, caught just at the moment between fresh and stewed, make an excellent addition to countless summer dishes. This recipe is vegan.

You might flesh out this meal by starting with a chilled soup. It could be a yogurt soup with rice and spinach or a tomato soup (stay with tomatoes if they’re good). Add a simple salad and a few nibbles, such as roasted almonds, and end with a glorious fig tart. Chianti Classico and other simple northern Italian reds like Dolcetto from the Piedmont or Valpolicella from Verona are classic with tomatoes. If you prefer a white, try a New World Sauvignon Blanc, especially if you add the capers.

Have your tomatoes marinating an hour ahead of time, or just before, if that’s what works best. Make the toast, heat the tomatoes, put them together, and you’re done.

2 heaping cups sliced, quartered, or diced tomatoes, assorted kinds and colors
1 shallot, finely diced
1 large garlic clove, 1⁄2 minced
3 basil leaves, slivered
1 tablespoon olive oil sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 large pieces ciabatta, semolina, or other rustic bread a few drops of balsamic vinegar

1. Toss the tomatoes with the shallot, minced garlic, basil, olive oil, and a pinch of salt. Set aside until you’re ready to eat.

2. Grill or toast the bread. Rub it with the other 1⁄2 clove of garlic.

3. Heat a medium skillet. When hot, add the tomatoes. Swirl the pan around to warm them through, add a few drops balsamic vinegar and some pepper, then spoon onto the toast and serve. They should just warm up and release their juices, not fall apart.

• Spread ricotta thickly over the toast, season with salt and pepper, drizzle with oil, and warm it in a toaster oven before adding the tomatoes.

• Sear thin slices of tofu (page 95), deglaze the pan with balsamic vinegar, then put on toast and cover with the tomatoes.
• Spoon the tomatoes over ravioli.

• Serve them with the Ricotta Omelet on page 124 or the Zucchini Skillet Cakes on page 82.

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First Chapter

Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen

By Deborah Madison

Random House

Deborah Madison
All right reserved.

ISBN: 0767916271

Chapter One


Savory Pies and Gratins

If I added up all the savory pies and gratins I've made in my life, they'd comprise a book in themselves. There's an instant appeal and sense of ease about both of these dishes. In my experience, everyone likes pie no matter what's in the crust. As for fragrant gratins, bubbling under their "crust" of bread crumbs, they are simply irresistible.

A crust makes a pie a more formal and special dish, but if you're not at ease whipping one out—it really is very easy with some practice—know that I've used the word pie very loosely. Some crusts are bread crumbs patted into the dish, and others don't have a crust at all. For the Feta and Ricotta Cheese Pie, it's the rim of the black cast-iron skillet, rather than pie dough, that frames the ingredients. But when you do make the dough given on page 8, note that it is made with less fat than most and with a mixture of whole wheat pastry and all-purpose flour, making it a little crisper and a lot tastier than the usual all-butter white-flour crust.

To make gratins or these shallow pies or tarts a main supper dish, plan to serve a big wedge or a quarter of a 9-inch pie. I like both pies and gratins served with a salad or sautéed greens right on the same plate and a separate vegetable course or soup to start. Serve rich gratins with lighter foods such as crudites for appetizers, thin soups for starters, and the aforementioned greens. In the case of nonstarchy gratins, such as the eggplant gratins on page 12, rice, quinoa, and other grains just drink up their good juices.

Tart Shell

makes one 9-inch tart shell

A lower-fat version of the usual buttery crust, this tart shell is a bit crisper than the traditional one. Whole wheat pastry flour gives the dough more substance and flavor than white flour.

1/2 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3/8 teaspoon sea salt
5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into chunks
3 tablespoons sour cream, reduced-fat if you like
ice water

1. Combine the flours and salt in a food processor.

2. Add the butter and pulse to form coarse crumbs, then add the sour cream and pulse again. Dribble in just enough ice water, about 1 tablespoon, to make damp-looking crumbs, working as briefly as possible. Turn the dough out onto a board, gather into a ball, then shape into a disk. Refrigerate for 15 to 30 minutes.

3. Roll the chilled dough into a 10-inch circle, drape it over the rolling pin, then lay it over the tart pan. Gently settle the dough into the pan. Using your fingertips, press the dough against the sides so that they are about 1/4 inch thick. Freeze for at least 15 minutes or until ready to prebake. Formed tart shells, well wrapped in foil, can be frozen for a week before using.

to prebake

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the frozen tart shell on a sheet pan and bake in the center of the oven until lightly colored and set, about 20 minutes. Check a few times during the baking and prick any swollen spots with the sharp tip of a knife.

Onion and Rosemary Tart
with fromage blanc

serves 4

Fromage blanc is nonfat cheese similar in texture to sour cream and crème fraîche. It lacks the unctuousness of its full-fat cousins, but when baked it's perfectly creamy and smooth.

I like this tart with a robust vegetable, such as roasted artichokes or mushrooms sauteed with spinach and seasoned with lots of pepper. For wine, a bistro-style red such as a Cabernet Franc from France's Loire Valley goes nicely with these straightforward flavors.

Unless you have a tart shell ready, begin by cooking the onions, then make, press, and freeze the shell while they're cooking. Once you've prebaked the tart shell, reduce the oven heat, fill the shell, and put it in the oven about 45 minutes before you're ready to eat. This tart is best eaten warm.

2 teaspoons butter or olive oil
4 small or 3 medium onions, quartered and thinly sliced crosswise, at least 4 cups
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons finely chopped rosemary
1 9-inch tart shell (page 8)
2 eggs
1 cup fromage blanc

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Melt the butter in a Dutch oven and add the onions. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt, give a stir, cover the pan, and cook slowly until soft and pale gold, about 30 minutes. Add the rosemary, then season with pepper and taste, adding more salt if needed.

2. While the onions are cooking, prepare and prebake the tart shell. Then reduce the heat to 350°F.

3. Whisk the eggs with the fromage blanc, 3/8 teaspoon salt, and a little pepper. Stir in the onions, then pour the mixture into the shell. Bake until golden and nearly firm, about 35 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes, then remove it from the tart pan, set it on a platter, and serve.

Variation with scallions

Scallions take far less time to cook than onions and make a more delicate tart, one that's just right for spring. You'll want 4 bunches of scallions, including a few inches of their greens, thinly sliced. Cook them in the butter until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Use a spring herb in this version
chervil, tarragon, the first few basil leavesand serve the tart with asparagus, the first peas, or leeks simmered in wine.

Dried Porcini
and fresh mushroom tart

serves 4

This succulent mix of mushrooms may tempt you to forget the pastry and just spoon them over some toast-an excellent idea, in fact. But if you want a dish that has more style, make a tart. It will look glorious, and with the full ounce of dried mushrooms it will be intensely mushroomy.

While rich in flavor, this is not a heavy dish, so go ahead and include a soup (a roasted red pepper soup would make a lively start), a side dish (think of roasted carrots with garlic and thyme or braised black kale), and a sprightly green salad. A glass of Bandol rose is the perfect wine.

Turn on the oven, get the dried mushrooms soaking, then use that window of time to prepare the tart shell (unless you have one ready). and slice the onion and mushrooms. Bake the tart shell while the mushrooms are cooking. This tart can be served hot, warm, or at room temperature.

1 ounce (1 cup) dried porcini mushrooms
1/2 cup dry white wine or dry sherry
1 9-inch tart shell (page 8)
1 tablespoon olive oil or a mixture of butter and oil, plus a little oil to finish
1 large white onion, finely diced
1/2 pound white or brown mushrooms, sliced 1Ú4 inch thick or less
1/2 pound (3 small) Portobello or other large mushrooms, sliced 1/4 inch thick (see note)
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 heaping teaspoon tomato paste
1 parsley sprig and a few thyme or marjoram sprigs, minced
1 egg
2/3 cup half-and-half, cream, or Mushroom Stock (page 209)

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Put the porcini in a saucepan with the wine and 1/2 cup water. Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat, cover, and set aside for 30 minutes. Once the porcini are tender, pour the liquid through a fine strainer into a bowl, then chop the mushrooms into 1/2-inch or smaller pieces. Reserve the soaking water.

2. Meanwhile, prepare and freeze the tart shell.

3. Heat the oil in a wide skillet. Add the onion and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until it starts to color, about 5 minutes.

4. Add the fresh mushrooms. Raise the heat to high, season with 1 teaspoon salt, and cook, tossing occasionally, until they start to color, about 10 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and a few tablespoons of the mushroom-soaking liquid, then add the porcini and continue cooking, adding more mushroom liquid in small amounts, until the mushrooms are tender and glazed, about 15 minutes. Add half the herbs, then taste for salt and season with pepper.

5. While the mushrooms are cooking, prebake the tart shell.

6. Beat the egg with the half-and-half. Slide the mushrooms into the prebaked tart shell and pour the custard over. Bake until the custard is set, 25 to 30 minutes. When done, sprinkle the remaining herbs over the top and dab a few drops of oil on the mushrooms to make them shine.

Note: If you're using Portobello's, remove the gills with a spoon before cooking, or the dish will be very dark.

Two Eggplant Tarts
with tomatoes, olives, and goat cheese

serves 4

These two tarts use the same ingredients, but with very different effect. In the first, roasted eggplant is beaten into the custard, over which the tomatoes form a pretty coverlet. In the second, the eggplant is sliced and broiled, then mixed with the tomatoes, making a more rustic tart. Both are good to keep in mind when an assortment of tomatoes, such as Sun Gold, Yellow Pear, and Sweet 100, are available—they look and taste gorgeous-and both versions make a fine dinner on a hot night.

I might start this meal with a zucchini and basil soup, include a salad on the plate, and end with a platter of fresh figs and raspberries, possibly accompanied by a Muscat sabayon. A Rhone-style rose from California's south-central coast, such as an Ojai Vin Gris, would be good with all the elements in these tarts.

In both versions the eggplant can be prepared (roasted or broiled), the custards whisked together, and the tart shells prebaked hours before completing the tarts.

Smooth Roasted Eggplant and Tomato Tart

Ideally, you might roast the eggplant over the coals the night before if you're grilling, which adds a rich smoky flavor. Once roasted, the eggplant can wait for several days.

1 9-inch tart shell (page 8)
2 medium eggplants, about 1 pound each
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 heaping tablespoon finely slivered basil leaves, plus a few leaves for garnish
2 heaping tablespoons pitted Nicoise olives, finely chopped
1 egg
1/2 cup half-and-half, cream, or creme fraiche
3 to 4 ounces crumbled goat cheese
2 cups mixed small tomatoes, halved crosswise
olive oil for drizzling

1. Preheat the oven to 4250°F. Make and prebake the tart shell. Reduce the heat to 400°F.

2. Pierce the eggplants in several places, then put them on a sheet pan and bake until they're collapsed, about 40 minutes, or roast them over hot coals until collapsed. Set them in a colander for 15 minutes to drain, then scrape the flesh out of the skin, put it in a bowl, and mash coarsely with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add the basil and olives and season with pepper. Beat the egg with the half-and-half and goat cheese and whisk it into the eggplant.

3. Pour the custard into the tart shell. Cover with tomatoes, cut sides up. Drizzle with olive oil and bake until the custard is set, about 30 minutes. Sliver the reserved basil leaves and scatter them over the hot surface. Let the tart cool for at least 15 minutes or serve at room temperature.

Rustic Eggplant and Tomato Tart

For this tart, use 2 pounds narrow Japanese or Italian eggplants, a few tablespoons olive oil, and an additional 1/2 cup half-and-half.

Make and prebake the tart shell, as in the preceding recipe. Preheat the broiler. Brush a sheet pan lightly with olive oil.

1. Remove strips of the eggplant skin, leaving a few thin bands. Slice diagonally about 3/8 inch thick and toss with 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil. Place them on the oiled sheet pan in a single layer and broil until golden, 10 to 15 minutes if your broiler is hot. Turn and cook the second side, about 10 minutes. Transfer those that finish first to a bowl. When all are done, season with a few pinches of salt and some pepper.

2. Beat the egg in a small bowl with the half-and-half and goat cheese, leaving the cheese a little chunky.

3. Add the olives, basil, and most of the tomatoes to the eggplant and toss together. Put them in the tart shell and pour the custard over all. Tuck the remaining tomatoes here and there where they can be seen and bake until the custard is set, about 35 minutes. Serve warm or tepid.

Excerpted from Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen by Deborah Madison Excerpted by permission.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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  • Posted April 24, 2010

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    The recipes in this book are not very complicated and tasty. They open up a whole new world of cooking in a healthy and satisfying way.

    2 out of 2 people found this review helpful.

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