Table of Contents
Preface xi
Part I The Humbling
1 Death 3
2 Humpty Dumpty 8
3 Spiraling Downward 15
4 A Pilgrimage? 18
5 Making the Decision 24
6 Getting Ready 27
7 Two Backpacks and Counting 35
8 Taking the Pressure Off 42
9 Packing Up 44
10 The Last Night at Home 47
11 Chicago to Paris 51
12 Get Ready, Get Set 57
Part II The Healing
Day 1 Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles 67
Day 2 Roncesvalles to Zubiri 77
Day 3 Zubiri to Pamplona 88
Day 4 Pamplona to Puente la Reina 100
Day 5 Puente la Reina to Estella 112
Day 6 Estella to Los Arcos 121
Day 7 Los Arcos to Logroño 134
Day 8 Logroño to Nájera 139
Day 9 Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada 146
Day 10 Santo Domingo to Belorado 154
Day 11 Belorado to San Juan de Ortega 161
Day 12 San Juan to Burgos 176
Day 13 Burgos to Hornillos del Camino 182
Day 14 Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz 189
Day 15 Castrojeriz to Frómista 195
Day 16 Frómista to Carrión de los Condes 204
Day 17 Carrión to Calzadilla de la Cueza 213
Day 18 Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagún 221
Day 19 Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero 231
Day 20 El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas 238
Day 21 Mansilla de las Mulas to León 244
Day 22 León to Mazarife 250
Day 23 Mazarife to Astorga 257
Day 24 Astorga to Rabanal del Camino 264
Day 25 Rabanal to Ponferrada 271
Day 26 Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo 277
Day 27 Villafranca to O Cebreiro 285
Day 28 O Cebreiro to Triacastela 292
Day 29 Triacastela to Sarria 299
Day 30 Sarria to Portomarín 304
Day 31 Portomarín to Palas de Rei 310
Day 32 Palas de Rei to Arzúa 316
Day 33 Arzúa to Amenal 323
Day 34 Amenal to Santiago de Compostela 332
Afterword 339
Acknowledgments 341
About the Author 342