Warm Hands Warm the Heart

Warm Hands Warm the Heart

by Annie's
     
 

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Featuring four construction methods—double-point needles, two circular needles, the magic-loop method, or straight needles—this instructional manual introduces beginners to the nuances of making mittens. The patterns also include a variety of color, stitch, and surface variations that knitters can master to make unique creations, such as Fair Isle, Intarsia,…  See more details below

Overview

Featuring four construction methods—double-point needles, two circular needles, the magic-loop method, or straight needles—this instructional manual introduces beginners to the nuances of making mittens. The patterns also include a variety of color, stitch, and surface variations that knitters can master to make unique creations, such as Fair Isle, Intarsia, Twining, and Drop Stitch. Accompanied by full-color step-by-step photographs, the pattern themes include Moulin Rouge, Celtic Moors, Provincial Garden, Lil’ Bambinos, Bollicina, and Erin Isles and include sizing options for kids and adults.

Product Details

ISBN-13:
9781592173457
Publisher:
Annie's
Publication date:
11/15/2010
Sold by:
Barnes & Noble
Format:
NOOK Book
Pages:
48
File size:
11 MB
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This product may take a few minutes to download.

Read an Excerpt

Warm Hands Warm the Heart


By Kara Gott Warner

DRG

Copyright © 2010 DRG
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-59217-345-7



CHAPTER 1

Circular Knitting Techniques


Work in Working With Double-Point Needles (dpn)

Double-points come in sets of five and are usually European made. With these, the work is divided evenly among three or four needles, with the fourth or fifth being 6-9 inches. Very short (4-inch) needles are available from specialty sources and are often know as glove or finger needles. These are especially useful when working thumbs.

If you are new to working with double-points, it may feel awkward at first. This is normal and, as with any new endeavor, will go away with time as you become more comfortable manipulating multiple needles.


Casting on

Cast on one-third the desired number of stitches onto the first needle. Holding the second needle parallel and below the first, cast on another one-third of the stitches. Hold the third needle parallel below the first two and cast on the remaining one-third. Photo 1 shows 10 stitches cast onto each needle. Tip: If you prefer, you can also cast on all of your stitches onto a straight needle, then transfer the stitches to each separate double-point needle.


Arranging the Needles

Rearrange the needles to form a triangle, with the base closest to you and the point facing away. All the stitches are at the bottom of the needles and should not be twisted. Both the tail end and the end of yarn connected to the skein are at the left end of needle 3 (see photo 2). If you're using four needles, rearrange the needles to form a square so that the tail end and the end of yarn connected to the skein are at the left end of needle 4.

Slip the first stitch from needle 1 and place onto needle 3. Slip the ending stitch from needle 3 up and over the stitch just transferred onto needle 1 to "join" into a ring.

Using the end of yarn connected to the skein and the fourth (free) needle, knit the stitches on the first needle. When all stitches are on the new needle, the needle that formerly held the stitches now becomes the free needle. Continue turning the work, so you are always working at the "base" of the triangle. The yarn tail will mark the beginning of needle 1. To avoid a "ladder" of larger stitches from forming when you change from one needle to the next, work the first stitch of each needle a bit tighter than usual.

Photo 3 shows a cuff being worked in K1, P1 ribbing. Our sample of 30 stitches works out rather nicely with 10 stitches per needle. In K1, P1 ribbing, this means there will always be a starting needle with a knit, and ending with a purl, exactly even with the pattern.

But what about a cuff with 32 stitches worked in K2, P2 rib? Dividing by three doesn't work out evenly. We could put 11 stitches on each of the first two needles and 10 on the last, which translates beginning needle 1 with K2 and end with P1. Needle 2 would begin with P1 and end with K2, while needle 3 would begin and end with P2, making it hard to develop a knitting rhythm, but easy to make a mistake. The solution is to rearrange the stitches so we have 12 stitches each on the first and last needles, and eight on the second. With all number being multiples of four, you can work around the cuff in K2, P2 ribbing always coming out even.


Working With Two Circular Needles

Cast on the required number of stitches onto a circular needle. Slip half of the stitches to a second circular needle. Needle 1 holds the first group of stitches and needle 2 holds the rest of the stitches.

Step 1: Slide all stitches to other end of needles, making sure that needle 2 is on top, and needle 1 is on the bottom.

Step 2: Slip the first stitch from needle 1 and place onto needle 2. Slip the ending stitch from needle 2 up and over the stitch just transferred onto needle 1 to "join" into a ring.

Step 3: Pull needle 1 so the stitches rest on the cable.

Step 4: The working yarn is on needle 2, ready to work. Pick up the other end of needle 2 and work across all stitches.

Step 5: Turn the work so needle 1 is ready to work. Pull needle 2 so stitches rest on cable. Pick up opposite end of needle 1 and work across all stitches.

Continue in this manner until desired length is reached.


Using Magic Loop Method

This method of working in the round uses one long circular needle, ideally one with a very flexible cable. It is very similar to working with two circular needles but many knitters prefer it to working with two needles because it eliminates the distracting loose ends of the second circular needle. Once you master this technique, it's a great solution when working on small-circumference projects.

Cast on or pick up the required number of stitches onto a 29-inch, or longer, circular needle. Slide the stitches to the cable portion of the needle. Pinch the cable in half as shown below, then pull to create a large loop. Arrange half the stitches on one needle tip, and half on the other.

Follow these 3 easy steps:

Step 1: The photo below shows how your stitches should look after you have distributed them on the two parts of the needle. The points of the needle and the "tail" from the cast on row are facing to the right and the cables are on your left.

Tip: After cast on row: refer to Working with Two Circular Needles to join the first and last stitch.

Step 2: The next step, as shown below illustrates how to begin working your first round: Hold the needle in your left hand, and pull out the needle that holds the "tail end"; the stitches that were on the needle point are now resting on the cable. Begin working the stitches that are still on the opposite needle point as if you were working on straight needles.

Step 3: At the end of the row, simply turn the work around and reposition the stitches as shown. Once again, the needles are pointing to the right, and the cable loop is to the left.

Continue to work in this manner until desired length is reached.

The example below shows how the work will appear on the needle as the work gets longer.

CHAPTER 2

Moulin Rouge


These sultry gauntlets are luxurious, super-soft and simply stunning.

Design by Lisa Ellis


Skill Level

*** INTERMEDIATE


Size

Woman's small/medium


Finished Measurements

Hand circumference: 6 inches

Length: 12 inches


Materials

• Cascade Yarns Cloud 9 (worsted weight; 50% merino wool/50% angora; 109 yds/50g per ball): 1 ball each red #146 (A) and black #120 (B)

• Two size 8 (5mm) 16-inch circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge

• Two size 9 (5.5mm) 16-inch circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge

• 1 locking stitch marker


Gauge

22 sts and 20 rnds = 4 inches/10cm in Twined St with smaller needles.

19 sts and 20 rnds = 4 inches/10cm in Twined St with larger needles.

To save time, take time to check gauge.


Special Abbreviation

Knit in front and back of stitch (kfb): Increase made by knitting in front loop, then back loop of same stitch.


Pattern Stitch

Twined Knitting (multiple of 2 sts)

Rnd 1: *K1A, k1B; rep from * around, always bringing the new yarn up over the top of old yarn.

Rnd 2: *K1B, k1A; rep from * around, always bringing the new yarn up over the top of the old yarn.

Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for pat and untwist yarns frequently.


Special Techniques

Elastic Bind-Off: [*Wyib, sl 1p, bring yarn forward between needles, move slipped st back to LH needle, bring yarn to back of work between needles, k1; rep from * once more, pass first st over 2nd and off needle to bind off 1] to end.

Sideways Trim: Bring both yarns to front of work. *P1B over A, and p1A over B; rep from * around, always bringing the new yarn up over the top of old yarn.


Pattern Notes

These fingerless gloves are worked from the cuff up, using 2 short circular needles.

To keep stitches from lining up at the beginning of the round while working the Twined pattern a stitch is added after completing the Sideways Trim round.

The wrist shaping is achieved by changing to one size smaller needles. For a more fitted wrist, try using needles two sizes smaller rather than one size smaller than the larger needle.

Refer to Twined Knitting Techniques on page 46 for more information on this method of two-color knitting.


Left Glove


Cuff

With larger needle and A, cast on 40 sts. Distribute sts evenly on 2 circular needles. Place locking marker in edge for beg of rnd and join, taking care not to twist sts.

Next rnd: [K1, p1] around.

Attach B.

Next rnd: [K1A, k1B] around.

Next rnd: Work Sideways Trim.

Note: When working inc, knit in front of st with B and make inc in back with A.

Inc rnd: Work Rnd 1 of Twined St to last st, kfb — 41 sts.

Work in Twined Knitting, continue from Rnd 2 until glove measures 6 inches from beg.


Wrist

Change to smaller needles.

Continue in established pat until glove measures 10 ½ inches from beg.


Hand

Change to larger needles and work in established pat to last 6 sts, place next 12 sts onto waste yarn for thumb — 29 sts.

Move locking marker to next st for beg of rnd and join.

Next rnd: Work in established pat around, pulling first st firmly over thumb opening.

Work 5 more rnds in established pat.

Next rnd: Work Sideways Trim. Cut B.

Next rnd: With A only, [k1, p1] around, making sure to knit B sts and purl A sts.

Bind off in Elastic Bind-Off.


Thumb

Place sts from waste yarn on larger needles, with first 6 sts on one needle and rem 6 sts on 2nd needle.

Attach A and B, pick up 1 st in top of opening with same color as next st, work in next rnd of Twined Knitting to end, pick up 1 st in top of opening with next color — 14 sts.

Work in established pat for 4 more rnds.

Next rnd: Work Sideways Trim. Cut B.

Next rnd: With A only, [k1, p1] around, making sure to knit B sts and purl A sts.

Bind off in Elastic Bind-Off.


Right Glove

Work same as for left glove.


Finishing

Block to finished measurements.

CHAPTER 3

Celtic Moors


These color-stranded mittens will keep you extra warm throughout the winter months.

Design by Jeannette Ehrich


Skill Level

**** EXPERIENCED


Sizes

Adult small/medium (medium/large) Instructions are given for the smaller size, with larger size in parentheses. When only 1 number is given, it applies to both sizes.


Finished Measurements

Hand circumference: 8¼ (8¾) inches

Length: 91½ (10¾) inches


Materials

• Mission Falls 136 Merino Superwash (DK weight; 100% merino wool; 136 yds/50g per ball): 2 (2) balls raisin #012 (MC) and 1 (2) ball(s) curry #013 (CC)

• Size 2 (2.75mm) double-point needles (set of 4)

• Size 4 (3.5mm) double-point needles (set of 4) or size needed to obtain gauge

• Stitch markers


Gauge

30 sts and 30 rows = 4 inches/10cm in Ram's Horn pat with larger needles.

To save time, take time to check gauge.


Special Abbreviations

Make 1 (M1): Increase by making a backward loop over RH needle.

Make 1 Left (M1L): Insert LH needle from front to back under strand between the last st worked and the next st on LH needle, k1-tbl. St slants to the left.

Make 1 Right (M1R): Insert LH needle from back to front under strand between the last st worked and the next st on LH needle, k1 through front of loop. St slants to the right.

N1, N2, N3: Needle 1, Needle 2, Needle 3.


Pattern Stitch

Celtic Moors

Refer to Celtic Moors chart on pages 15 and 16.


Special Technique

Two Color Cast-On: Make a slip knot on needle with both yarns held tog and MC to right (these loops do not count as sts), leaving tails about 4 inches. Holding both yarns as you would for a long tail cast-on, with the MC over your thumb and the CC over your index finger, cast on the required number of sts. Slide the slip knot off and gently pull the ends to tighten the first st.


Left Mitten


Cuff

With smaller needles, cast on 54 (57) sts using the Two -Color Cast-On. Distribute sts evenly on 3 needles — 18 (19) sts on each needle. Place marker for beg of rnd and join, taking care not to twist sts.

Next rnd: [K2 MC, p1 CC] around.

Continue in established pat until cuff measures 2 ½ inches.


Thumb gusset

Change to larger needles and CC.

Set-up rnd: [K7, M1] 2 (8) times, [k8, M1] 4 (0) times, [k7, M1] 1 (0) time(s), k1 — 61 (65) sts.

Distribute sts on needles as follows: N1: 31 (33) sts; N2: 15 (16) sts; N3: 15 (16) sts.

Next rnd: Work Rnd 1 of Hand chart to last 6 sts, place marker, work Rnd 1 of Thumb Gusset chart over next 5 sts, place marker, work last st in Hand chart.

Inc rnd: Work in pat to marker, M1R CC, work in pat to marker, M1L MC, work last st in pat — 63 (67) sts.

Rep inc rnd [every other rnd] 4 more times — 71 (75) sts.

Work even in pat for 6 (8) rnds.


Hand

Next rnd: Work in pat to marker, slip next 15 sts to waste yarn for thumb, cast on 5 sts in pat, work last st in pat — 61 (65) sts.

Continuing in established pat, work through Rnd 42 (50) of chart.


Shape top

Rnd 43 (51): N1: K1 CC, ssk MC, work to last 3 sts on needle, k2tog MC, k1 CC; N2: ssk MC (CC), work to 2 sts before end of chart, k2tog MC — 57 (61) sts.

Rnds 44 (52)–50 (57): Continuing in pat, work dec as indicated on chart [every other rnd] twice more, then [every rnd] 3 times, working N1 dec in MC, and maintaining established pat on N2 and N3 — 37 (41) sts.

Rnd 51 (58): N1: K1 CC, ssk MC, k2tog MC, work to last 5 sts on needle, ssk MC, k2tog MC, k1 CC; N2: ssk MC (CC), work to last 2 sts on needle, k2tog CC (MC); N3: ssk CC, work to last 2 sts on needle, k2tog CC — 29 (33) sts.

Rep last dec rnd 2 (1) more time(s), working N1 dec in colors according to chart, and maintaining stripe sequence on N2 and N3 — 13 (25) sts.

Medium/large size only

Next rnd: K1 CC, ssk MC, k2tog CC, s2kp2 MC, ssk CC, k2tog MC, k1 CC, ssk CC, k2 MC, k2tog CC, ssk MC, k2 CC, k2tog MC — 15 sts.

Cut yarn, draw CC to WS and MC through rem sts.


Thumb

Attach yarns and return thumb gusset sts to larger needles as follows: N1: Beg at palm side of gusset and, pick up and knit 2 sts in pat, work first 6 sts from thumb gusset in established pat; N2: work next 8 sts in established pat; N3: work rem st, pick up and knit 2 sts at corner of opening, and pick up and knit 5 sts in pat along cast-on edge at top of opening — 24 sts. Place marker for beg of rnd and join.

Work in established pat until thumb measures 2 ¼ (2 ½) inches, or approx ¼ inch less than desired length.


Shape top

Rnd 1: *Ssk in pat, to last 2 sts on N1, k2tog in pat; rep from * across N2 and N3 — 18 sts.

Work 1 rnd even.

Rnd 3: Rep [Rnd 1] — 12 sts.

Cut yarn and draw CC to WS and MC through rem sts.


Right Mitten


Cuff

Work same as left cuff.


Thumb gusset

Change to larger needles and CC.

Set-up rnd: [K7, M1] 2 (8) times, [k8, M1] 4 (0) times, [k7, M1] 1 (0) time(s), k1 — 61 (65) sts.

Distribute sts on needles as follows: N1: 31 (33) sts; N2: 15 (16) sts; N3: 15 (16) sts.

Next rnd: N1: Work Rnd 1 of Hand chart; N2: work Rnd 1 of Hand chart over first st, place marker, work Rnd 1 of Thumb Gusset chart over next 5 sts, place marker, work in Hand chart over rem 24 (26) sts.

Work same as for left mitten.


Finishing

Block to finished measurements.


(Continues...)

Excerpted from Warm Hands Warm the Heart by Kara Gott Warner. Copyright © 2010 DRG. Excerpted by permission of DRG.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Meet the Author

Annie’s is part of the third-generation Muselman family business, founded in 1925 and long known for original craft designs including crochet, knitting, card making, paper crafts, beading, sewing, quilting, and needlework. Annie’s books are sold through independent retailers and major chain stores worldwide. They are headquartered in Berne, Indiana.

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