Ways To The Sky

Ways To The Sky

by Andy Selters
     
 

ISBN-10: 0930410831

ISBN-13: 9780930410834

Pub. Date: 06/10/2004

Publisher: Mountaineers Books, The

Ways to the Sky charts the evolution of alpine climbing in the United States, Canada and Mexico, from the evidence of ancient native ascents to the latest cutting-edge climbs. Andy Selters highlights key personalities -- from exploratory climbers like John Muir and Lt. August Kautz to technical maestros such as Mark Twight and Marko Prezelj -- on the most demanding

Overview

Ways to the Sky charts the evolution of alpine climbing in the United States, Canada and Mexico, from the evidence of ancient native ascents to the latest cutting-edge climbs. Andy Selters highlights key personalities -- from exploratory climbers like John Muir and Lt. August Kautz to technical maestros such as Mark Twight and Marko Prezelj -- on the most demanding mountain routes. He then points readers to the mountains where they can experience firsthand many of these historically significant routes.

Product Details

ISBN-13:
9780930410834
Publisher:
Mountaineers Books, The
Publication date:
06/10/2004
Series:
American Alpine Book Series
Edition description:
New Edition
Pages:
354
Product dimensions:
7.00(w) x 10.00(h) x 0.74(d)

Table of Contents

Foreword Ivii
Foreword IIix
Acknowledgmentsxi
Introductionxiii
Mapsxv
Period IDiscovery by Summiting
Chapter 1Mountaineering Takes Shape3
First European Ascents4
Alpine Roots5
Explorers and Soldiers6
"A Flowing Exhilaration of Spirits"8
The Cascade Frontier10
Early Sierra Climbs13
Mountaineering's Dual Goals14
A Technical Siege15
Early Rocky Mountain Climbs16
New England's Alpine18
Suggested Routes From This Period20
Chapter 2The Pure Canadian Outback25
Rails into Wilderness25
Tragedy and the First Guides27
Alpinists' Early Methods30
Canada's Golden Age32
A New Matterhorn33
Selkirk Expeditions35
Suggested Routes From This Period37
Chapter 3Pioneer Alaskan Expeditions41
The North's Highest Peak?41
The True Highest44
Decades Ahead of Her Time47
The Peak of Peaks47
So Many Mountains49
Suggested Routes From This Period51
Chapter 4The Rise of Clubs53
The Grand Teton Reclaimed54
Early Sierra Club Climbs55
The Mazamas56
The Mountaineers57
A Nation of Mountaineers60
He Who Must Be Obeyed62
The Robson Saga63
Return to Robson67
During the Great War69
Vancouver Mountaineers70
Teton Satellites72
Canada's Highest72
Suggested Routes From This Period76
Period IIAdventure Revitalized
Chapter 5Frontiers of Verticality81
Amateurs in Canada82
America's Rockies84
Icy New England86
The Piton: European Roots88
Early Piton Routes89
Two Weeks in the Tetons92
Norman Clyde93
Dynamic Belays94
San Juan Mountaineers97
Cascadians Cut Loose98
New Routes on Rainier99
Suggested Routes From This Period101
Chapter 6The New Explorers105
Mystery Mountain105
Wilderness Ranges Farther South111
The Shrinking Wilderness112
Harvard Men Go North113
Crillon, Foraker and Lucania115
Clouds of War118
Suggested Routes From This Period120
Chapter 7Playing Immortal123
Fritz Wiessner124
Back to the Tetons128
Focus on K2129
Durrance's Magnum Opus130
The Bugaboo of the Bugaboos130
The One-Man Tornado132
Suggested Routes From This Period134
Chapter 8Busting Through "Impossible"137
Back to the Mountains, ASAP138
Evolution in the Rockies140
Virtuosos of the Steep143
Cragsmen Go High144
Canada Emerges148
Beyond Yosemite150
Roving Masters151
An Amazing Season152
Coast Mountains Galore154
Canadian Rocky Walls154
Suggested Routes From This Period156
Chapter 9The Giant Routes161
Colossal Enterprises162
Expanding the Expedition Game164
The Remarkable Season165
Deborah and Hunter169
More Northern Giants170
New Boldness171
Remote Rock173
North America's Ultimate Route?174
Alaska Range Triumphs176
The Hummingbird179
Advanced Organization182
Expedition Extravaganzas183
Suggested Routes From This Period186
Period IIIBetter That We Raise Our Skill
Chapter 10The Ice Revolution193
Beginnings in the Cascades193
Rink-Hard Couloirs and Relentless Faces194
The Tool User197
Revolution at Hand198
The Lowes200
Canadian North Faces202
A New Era, By George204
Drama on North Twin205
The Nordwand Trend208
Winter's Icy Grip210
Ice Pillars and Faces212
5.9, A2215
Colder is Better216
Suggested Routes From This Period220
Chapter 11Style on Rock225
Beckey Rocks226
A National Rating System228
Grand Traverses229
Granite Classics230
Palisade Renaissance232
Climbing Clean234
Wild and Free236
The Wildest Walls236
Extreme Free238
Advanced Protection240
B.C. Granite240
Beyond the Hyper-Technical241
Traversing Revival242
Suggested Routes From This Period245
Chapter 12Style in the Super-Alpine251
Dissidents to the North252
An Absurd Joke254
Distant Discoveries257
Southeast Alaska258
Big-League Alpine Style259
Unfinished Business261
Packaged Efficiency262
The Future in High Gear263
Embracing Extreme266
Big Steps268
Steep and Solid271
Persistence Alaskan Style272
Risk and Reward273
Suggested Routes From This Period275
Period IVWhen "Why" Disappeared
Chapter 13High Country Freedom283
Sport Tactics on High284
Old Ways to New Levels286
Technical Endurance288
The Enchainment Principle291
Untamed Alps292
As Far As the Ridges Run296
Old Games Still Strong298
Rockies Rule299
Suggested Routes From This Period301
Chapter 14The Biggest Arena: Alpine Style305
Modern Alaska305
The Thunderbird307
Alaskan Triumphs and Tragedies309
The Grandest Enigma310
Super-Alpine Ridges311
Moonflower and Beyond314
Pure and Unencumbered317
Always More Mountains320
Single Push Forward321
Suggested Routes From This Period326
Epilogue: The Wild Card327
Appendices330
Guidebooks to North American Mountains330
Alpine Grades330
Index332

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