Read an Excerpt
Where to watch birds in South America
By Nigel Wheatley PRINCETON UNIVERSITY PRESS
Copyright © 1995 Princeton University Press
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-691-04337-1
CHAPTER 1
ARGENTINA
INTRODUCTION
Summary
Argentina is a friendly, modern country with a good infrastructure, a field guide and many spectacular settings in which to watch birds. Although it is basically a temperate country with no lowland rainforest, it is over 3,000 km long, and there is actually a good range of habitats, which support a superb variety of South American bird families. It would be difficult to do justice to all these habitats in one short trip, so the dilemma for most Argentine first-timers is whether to go north or south. The north supports a number of high-Andean specialities whilst many species restricted to Patagonia occur in the south.
Size
Argentina is big. It is the eighth largest country in the world, over twenty times the size of England, four times the size of Texas and nearly ten times larger than Ecuador, a total of 2,766,889 km2. It is a mammoth 3,460 km from the high Andes on the border with Bolivia in the northwest to the windswept shores of Tierra del Fuego in the south.
Getting Around
Although the infrastructure is highly developed, only one third of the many roads are paved. There is an extensive, cheap and efficient bus service. Most of the cities and larger towns are accessible by air from Buenos Aires, making the various airpasses very useful in this big country. There is also a cheap but slow rail network which covers all but Patagonia.
Accommodation and Food
High quality, good value accommodation is fairly extensive. Camping is very popular and roadside service stations often provide facilities. Argentina is a carnivore's paradise, but vegetables are scarce.
Health and Safety
Argentina is a clean and hygienic country. The only precaution necessary against disease is for malaria if visiting the low-lying subtropical areas in the north. Very rarely, a Reduvid bug, which looks like a small cockroach and normally lives only in squalid houses in the northwest, bites someone and gives them Chaga's disease which is very nasty and difficult to treat. Beware of altitude sickness in the high Andes of the northwest. This is one of the safest countries in South America and violent crime against tourists is very rare.
Climate and Timing
The climate is temperate in the south, hence the austral winters (April to September) are very cold. In contrast the north is more subtropical and it can be very hot and humid from Buenos Aires north in the summer, especially December to February. At the same time, flooding may occur in the northern Andes. Hence the winter, June to August, is a fairly good time to visit the north, although the Ibera wetlands and Misiones are particularly wet in August; and the austral spring, October to November, is the best time to visit the whole country, especially the south.
Habitats
Thanks to its vast size Argentina contains a wide variety of habitats.
The Andes run along its western and northern boundaries with Chile and Bolivia. In the south they are low and glaciated with Nothofagus (Southern Beech) forest on the lower slopes. In the north they are high and dry, with high-altitude lakes surrounded by puna below the peaks, arid cacti-clad intermontane valleys below there, and temperate and subtropical 'yungas' forests on the wetter lower slopes. Due west of Buenos Aires and east of the Andes, near the city of Cordoba, lies an isolated rugged mountain range known as the Sierra de Ios Comechingones. Three birds are endemic to these mountains and the surrounding area.
Much of north Argentina is covered by chaco, which is wet in the east, with palm savanna and woodland, and dry in the west. The western portion of the chaco was once covered in scrubby woodland, dominated by Mesquite and Quebracho, but it has been seriously degraded over the years and in many places is now dominated by thick, nasty thorn scrub, known to many as 'El Impenetrable'. The eastern chaco ends at the huge Iberá wetlands in the east.
Remnant Araucaria woodland (Monkey-puzzle trees) is present in the northeast finger of the country, where there is also subtropical forest surrounding Iguazú falls, the world's largest waterfall.
The rolling grasslands and marshy flatlands which form the pampas cover much of central Argentina. As with the chaco, the east is wet and still relatively wild while the west is dry and mainly turned over to agriculture.
South of the pampas lies the arid, lake-dotted, windswept Patagonian steppe, covering over a third of the country. Spectacular glaciated mountains form the western boundary, the famous Valdes peninsula is on the east coast and the Nothofagus (Southern Beech) forests, lakes and wild coast of Tierra del Fuego form the southern extremity.
Conservation
37 threatened species occur in Argentina, none of which are endemic. Three (four) endemics are near-threatened.
Bird Families
Of the 92 families which regularly occur in South America 80 are represented, fewer than most of the countries to the north. They include 20 of the 25 Neotropical endemic families and six of the nine South American endemic families. There are no trumpeters, Hoatzin, Oilbird, Sunbittern or barbets. Both rheas, both seriemas, Magellanic Plover and seedsnipes occur.
Well-represented families include tinamous, grebes, flamingos,, and furnariids, of which there are over 70 species.
Bird Species
983 species have been recorded, well below the countries to the north and over 700 fewer than Peru and Colombia. However, this is merely a reflection of the country's complete lack of lowland rainforest, rather than the lack of birds.
Non-endemic specialities and spectacular species include Hooded Grebe, which was, until recently, an endemic, King and Magellanic Penguins, Magellanic Diving-Petrel, Ruddy-headed Goose, Spectacled Duck, Andean and Puna Flamingos, Crowned Eagle, Spot-winged Falconet, Red-faced Guan, Black-fronted Piping-Guan, Dot-winged Crake, Horned Coot, American Painted-snipe, Eskimo Curlew, Snowy Sheathbill, Magellanic Plover, White-bellied Seedsnipe, Andean Avocet, Two-banded Plover, Rufous-chested and Tawny-throated Dotterels, Magellanic Woodpecker, Red-tailed Comet, Toco Toucan, Lark-like Brushrunner, Crested Gallito, Black-throated Huet-huet, Olive-crowned Crescent-chest, Spotted Bamboowren, Strange-tailed Tyrant, seven out of eight monjitas, Yellow Cardinal, and Canary-winged and Yellow-bridled Finches.
Endemics
16 species occur only in Argentina, a slightly higher total than Ecuador, but well below the giddy heights set by Brazil and Peru. These include three canasteros, Sandy Gallito, Rusty-backed Monjita, Cinnamon Warbling-Finch and Tucuman Mountain-Finch. Three endemics are restricted to the Sierra de los Comechingones area near Cordoba.
Near endemics include Rufous-throated Dipper, which is hard to see in Bolivia, the only other country in which this species occurs.
Expectations
Well-prepared birders, who cover only the north, can expect to see approximately 300 species in three weeks. An extra 100 species are possible if another week is spent in the south. Exceptionally, over 550 species may be possible on an extensive five-week trip, including 15 of the 16 endemics, and over 50 furnariids.
BUENOS AIRES
Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, lies on the huge estuary of the Río Paraná and Río Uruguay, known as the Río de la Plata, at the northern edge of the open grasslands, lakes and marshes of the pampas. There are a couple of small sites well worth visiting if you are passing through the capital, including the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve, which is just a short walk from the city centre.
COSTANERA SUR ECOLOGICAL RESERVE (BUENOS AIRES WILDLIFE REFUGE) Map P. 42
The reed-fringed pools, pampas grass and scrubby woodland of this excellent reserve, situated in the old part of the capital, just 30 minutes walk from the city centre, support a fine selection of birds which form an excellent introduction to South American birds for newcomers to the continent. Over 200 species have been recorded including the scarce Black-headed Duck, the rare Dot-winged Crake, and Curve-billed Reedhaunter, although these are all rather rare visitors.
Specialities
Black-headed Duck, Rufous-sided Crake, Giant Wood-Rail, Dot-winged Crake, Snowy-crowned Tern, Sulphur-bearded Spinetail, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, Curve-billed Reedhaunter, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Red-crested Cardinal, Unicoloured Blackbird, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird.
Others
White-tufted and Great Grebes, Southern Screamer, Lake Duck, Black-necked Swan, White-cheeked Pintail, Rosy-billed Pochard, Whistling Heron, Stripe-backed Bittern, Bare-faced and Plumbeous Ibises, Snail Kite, Chimango Caracara, Plumbeous Rail, Spot-flanked Gallinule, White-winged, Red-gartered and Red-fronted Coots, Limpkin, Wattled Jacana, Southern Lapwing, Grey and Brown-hooded Gulls, Picazuro Pigeon, Picui Ground-Dove, Monk Parakeet, Guira Cuckoo, Scissor-tailed Nightjar, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Campo Flicker, Sooty-fronted and Yellow-chinned Spinetails, Wren-like Rushbird, Small-billed Elaenia, Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant, Spectacled and Yellow-browed Tyrants, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Masked Gnatcatcher, White-rumped Swallow, Masked Yellowthroat, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Long-tailed Reed-finch, Black-and-rufous and Black-capped Warbling-Finches, Great Pampa-Finch, Rusty-collared and Double-collared Seedeaters, Epaulet Oriole, Yellow-winged and Chestnut-capped Blackbirds.
Other Wildlife
Coypu.
Access
The reserve entrance is opposite Estados Unisos on the east side of Avenida Antart Argentina, southeast of the city centre. The Black-headed Duck usually occurs on the larger pools and Rufous-sided Crake near the warden's house.
Accommodation: Crillon (A), Hotel Novel (B).
The Paraná delta, 40 km northwest of Buenos Aires, is one of the few places in the world where Dot-winged Crake occurs, as well as Sulphur-throated Spinetail, Curve-billed Reedhaunter, Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant and Crested Doradito. Curve-billed and Straight-billed Reedhaunters have been recorded at nearby Ing. R. Otamendi Bird the track which runs alongside an overgrown ditch for 1 km behind the railway station.
The thickets, overgrown marshes and remnant woodlands on the shores of Samborombon Bay, southeast of Buenos Aires, en route to San Clemente, support Giant Wood-Rail, Checkered Woodpecker, Short-billed Canastero and Curve-billed Reedhaunter. The area around Attalaya, near Magdalena, 110 km southeast of Buenos Aires, is best. Bird the disused railway track.
The thickets, overgrown marshes and remnant woodlands on the shores of Samborombon Bay, southeast of Buenos Aires, en route to San Clemente, support Giant Wood-Rail, Checkered Woodpecker, Shortbilled Canastero and Curve-billed Reedhaunter. The area around Attalaya, near Magdalena, 110 km southeast of Buenos Aires, is best. Bird the disused railway track.
SAN CLEMENTE Map opposite
This small seaside resort, 330 km southeast of Buenos Aires, is an ideal base from which to explore the pampas grasslands, marshes, coastal dunes and mudflats nearby. The area is a popular birding site for Argentine birders, and there is an observatory on the Punta Rasa peninsula just to the north, a migrant hotspot. Even a short trip into the pampas alone is likely to produce over 100 species in a day.
Specialities
Spotted Nothura1 Dot-winged Crake, American Painted-snipe, Snowy Sheathbill, Olrog's Gull, Snowy-crowned Tern, Golden-breasted Woodpecker, Hudson's Canastero, Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail, Warbling Doradito, White-banded Mockingbird, Red-crested Cardinal, Scarlet-headed Blackbird.
Others
Red-winged Tinamou, Greater Rhea, Great Grebe, Black-browed Albatross, Southern Fulmar, White-chinned Petrel, Southern Screamer, Coscoroba Swan, Chiloe Wigeon, White-cheeked Pintail, Chilean Flamingo, Stripe-backed Bittern, Maguari Stork, Long-winged and Cinereous Harriers, Two-banded Plover, Tawny-throated Dotterel, Guira Cuckoo, White-throated Hummingbird, Campo Flicker, Tufted Tit-Spinetail, Wren-like Rushbird1 Firewood-gatherer, White-tipped Plantcutter, Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Small-billed Elaenia, Sooty Tyrannulet, Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant, Spectacled and Yellow-browed Tyrants, Southern Martin, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Long-tailed Reed-Finch, Double-collared Seedeater, Chestnut-capped Blackbird.
Other Wildlife
Six-banded Armadillo.
Access
Concentrate on birding the peninsula just north of San Clemente, known as Punta Rasa. 2 km after entering the reserve take the left fork for 3 km to the Biological Station, observatory and lighthouse. White-tipped Plantcutter occurs in the scrub, and Hudson's Canastero and Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail in the saltmarsh, usually to the left alongside this road, while White-throated Hummingbird may be found in the small wood, just before the station. Olrog's Gull occurs on the mudflats near here; or take the right fork for 4 km to the point. A small marsh on the left near the point supports Dot-winged Crake and Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail. Punta Rasa can be good for migrants in the austral spring (October–November) and autumn (March–April), and seabirds pass offshore when strong onshore winds are blowing.
San Clemente Port, 4 km from the town centre, next to the marine park (Mundo Marino) is a good site for Olrog's Gull.
Stripe-backed Bittern and American Painted-snipe occur at the Campos del Tuyú Reserve. The entrance is on the north side of the road, 12 km west of San Clemente. The snipe occurs in the marsh on the left, 1 km along the entrance road. The reserve is another 9 km further on and full of birds.
Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant and Warbling Doradito occur at the canal bridge west of General Lavalle (28 km west of San Clemente).
Accommodation: Hotel Fontainbleau (A); Hotel Piedras (San Martín) (C).
Pelagic trips on local fishing boats can be arranged at Necochea, a port 500 km due south of Buenos Aires. Albatrosses and White-chinned Petrel have been recorded on such trips. White-throated Hummingbird occurs in Necochea and Rockhopper Penguins occasionally appear (usually in May) on the beach at Costa Bonita1 16 km to the east.
Accommodation: Hotel Flamingo (C).
ENTRE RÍOS
The rarely visited state of Entre Rios, north of Buenos Aires, supports a number of rare and threatened birds, especially seedeaters. Recent DNA studies suggest that Narosky's Seedeater, endemic to this tiny area, is a subspecies of Marsh Seedeater.
Endemics
Narosky's (Marsh) Seedeater.
Specialities
Spotted Nothura, Giant Wood-Rail, Sickle-winged Nightjar, Golden-breasted Woodpecker, Straight-billed Reedhaunter, Brown Cachalote, Black-and-white Monjita, Red-crested Cardinal, Dark-throated, Marsh, Grey-and-chestnut and Chestnut Seedeaters, Glaucous-blue Grosbeak, Saffron-cowled and Scarlet-headed Blackbirds.
Others
Red-winged Tinamou, Greater Rhea, Southern Screamer, Ringed Teal, Bare-faced Ibis, Striped Owl, Little and Scissor-tailed Nightjars, Suiriri Flycatcher, Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant, Grey Monjita, White-naped Xenopsaris, Long-tailed Reed-Finch, Black-and-rufous and Black-capped Warbling-Finches, Solitary Cacique, Epaulet Oriole, Chestnut-capped and White-browed Blackbirds.
Access
Directions for these sites are scant owing to the sensitive species present. Good sites include El Palmar NP, situated on the Uruguay border and some 400 km north of Buenos Aires. Turn east 45 km north of Colón (route 14) opposite the 'Colón Hotel Palmar' sign. Spotted Nothura and Grey Monjita occur along the 10 km to a fork. Turn right here and bird the marsh 2 km further on, where Brown Cachalote and Chestnut Seedeater occur. The track continues to a river where Scissor-tailed Nightjar occurs. The roadside marshes east of Va Féderal support Greater Rhea, Southern Screamer and Giant Wood-Rail. Goodies including Sickle-winged Nightjar, Black-and-white Monjita, Marsh, Grey-and-chestnut and Narosky's (Marsh) Seedeaters, and Saffron-cowled Blackbird occur in the Puerto Boca wetlands near Gualeguaychu.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Where to watch birds in South America by Nigel Wheatley. Copyright © 1995 Princeton University Press. Excerpted by permission of PRINCETON UNIVERSITY PRESS.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
