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For both employer and employee, it seemed like a crazy decision: Why would a newspaper in one of the most religiously conservative countries on Earth hire a female liberal Manhattan journalist as their new editor-in-chief, and why on earth would she accept the job? With all the incongruities in full view, however, Jennifer Steil became the new editor-in-chief of the Yemen Observer. She knew that as a single woman, living and working in the impoverished ancestral home of Osama bin Laden would be stressful when it wasn't just plain weird. And it was and yet she survived. A travel essay you will never forget.