A pinch of nutmeg and a sprinkling of salt amplify the butterscotchy flavor of chocolate chip cookies, while a blend of milk and dark chocolate chunks provide alternating bites of creamy sweetness and bitter intensity. You can bake the cookies until they’re golden brown and crunchy, but I prefer to pull them while they’re still a wee bit pale so they stay soft and fudgy, crisp only around the very edges. See photos on and .

Yield: thirty-two 3-inch cookies or sixty-four 2-inch cookies | Active time: about 25 minutes

2½ cups | 14 ounces roughly chopped mixed dark, milk, and/or white chocolate (not chips)

2¾ cups | 12½ ounces all-purpose flour, such as Gold Medal

2 sticks | 8 ounces unsalted butter, soft but cool—about 65°F

1 packed cup | 8 ounces light brown sugar

1 cup | 7¼ ounces white sugar

2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt (half as much if iodized), plus more for sprinkling

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon baking powder

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

⅛ teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 large egg, straight from the fridge

BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts