Beaded Jewelry: Knotting Techniques: Skills, Tools, and Materials for Making Handcrafted Jewelry. A Storey BASICS® Title
88
Beaded Jewelry: Knotting Techniques: Skills, Tools, and Materials for Making Handcrafted Jewelry. A Storey BASICS® Title
88eBook
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Overview
Get all knotted up! This fun guide has all the information you need to make your own jewelry using knotting techniques. You’ll learn how to evaluate, select, and care for pearls and gemstones; how to select findings and tools; the pros and cons of different stringing materials; and much more. Clear step-by-step, fully illustrated instructions show you exactly how to knot between beads and attach various types of clasps and finishes. You’ll soon be crafting beautiful, ready-to-wear pieces.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781612124872 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Storey Publishing, LLC |
| Publication date: | 02/10/2015 |
| Series: | Storey Basics |
| Sold by: | Hachette Digital, Inc. |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 88 |
| File size: | 7 MB |
About the Author
Carson Eddy is the owner of The Boston Bead Company, with stores in Cambridge and Salem, Massachusetts. The Boston Bead Company offers an extensive calendar of classes and in-store demonstrations and maintains an online resource center, beadOpedia.
Co-author Rachael Evans has been a bead buyer, manager, and jewelry designer at The Boston Bead Company over the course of 12 years.
Co-author Kate Feld has worked as store manager and is currently the staff designer of The Boston Bead Company.
Read an Excerpt
CHAPTER 1
Knotting Cords
Selecting the most appropriate knotting cord for a particular project is an essential first step. Selection depends primarily on bead hole size, but bead size, bead weight, and personal preference should also be considered. Beads with very small holes, including pearls and precious gemstones, are most secure knotted on either small diameter silk or nylon.
Pearls are traditionally knotted on silk, but large-hole pearls look fantastic knotted on leather. Beads with average to large holes look great knotted on leather, waxed cotton, waxed linen, satin, or other large-diameter cords. Experiment with combinations of beads and cords to create unique knotted jewelry.
Nylon and Silk
Nylon and silk are the most commonly used cords for knotting between beads. Every time threads or cords are manufactured, small variations in the finished product can occur. For example, while the same dye may be used from batch to batch, small color variations can, and usually do, occur. A finishing treatment can change the feel of the thread or cord. In all cases, untreated threads and cords are thinner and lighter than ones that have been dyed, bonded, or treated in other ways.
Nylon and silk have distinct characteristics. In all cases, it is important to select the correct diameter cord for the particular beads you will be knotting. The cord should be thick enough so that the knots do not pull through the bead hole. However, if a single strand of heavyweight silk or nylon cord is not large enough to prevent the knots from sliding into the bead holes, there are several solutions.
First try using two or more strands of that particular cord. You can also try making multiple knots on top of one another, or you can try using a larger diameter cord like leather, waxed cotton, or satin. Each brand of nylon and silk cord is made using a different sizing system, so pay close attention to cord diameter when purchasing.
Nylon Cord
Nylon cord is a very popular material for knotting between all types of beads from tiny gemstones to large African trade beads. Nylon is a terrific alternative to silk because it does not stretch. A no-stretch nylon cord helps keep knots securely in place, especially when knotting heavier beads.
Nylon cord for knotting comes in two forms, carded nylon cord and spooled nylon cord. Both are available in a huge range of colors from subtle hues to bold tones. When adding a clasp to nylon cord, bead tips should be used.
* Carded nylon cord comes in several diameters and is sold on cards in various yardages. Carded nylon is a no-stretch cord that is available in a wide range of colors. Two popular brands are BeadSmith Beadstring and Griffin nylon cord. Griffin Beadcord is convenient because it comes with a beading needle already attached.
* Spooled nylon cord is a 3-ply twisted cord that also does not stretch. It comes in a range of diameters and is sold on both spools and cards in various yardages. The extensive range of available colors varies by brand. Spooled nylon cord is popular not only for knotting between beads, but also for micro macramé and bead stringing. Two popular brands of nylon cord are C-Lon and S-Lon. Both brands are made in the United States.
Nylon thread is generally not recommended for knotting between beads because it is too small in diameter to securely keep beads in place. It is best used for bead weaving, bead embroidery, and hand stitching.
Silk Cord
Silk cord is most commonly used for knotting between pearls, but can also be used for knotting between other small, lightweight beads such as gemstones and Czech glass. It stretches easily, so stretching it before use is highly recommended (see Prestretching Silk Cord). Silk cord is sold on spools and on cards in a variety of diameters. Selecting the appropriate silk cord for knotting depends primarily on the pearl or bead hole size. When adding a clasp to silk cord, bead tips should be used.
Spooled silk bead cord is available on /-ounce spools in a variety of diameters and in a wide range of colors. Spooled silk can be used in single, double, or multiple strands to knot between beads with a variety of bead hole sizes. Silk cord, especially spooled silk, will stretch, so it is recommended that spooled silk be stretched before use.
Carded silk bead cord is twisted to give it a sturdy surface and a high sheen. It often comes with a flexible beading needle already attached. It is available in various yardages, diameters, and colors. Like spooled silk cord, carded silk cord will stretch and should always be stretched before use.
Other Types Of Cord
A wide range of other cords are manufactured for use in jewelry making, including natural materials such as hemp, leather, linen, and cotton, and synthetic materials such as synthetic satin and elastic. These cords are useful for knotting between beads that are not suitable for use with silk or nylon.
Hemp
Hemp is a strong, environmentally friendly fiber that is biodegradable. It is important to note that not all hemp cord is the same. Hemp twine, primarily used for home and garden, is a rough material made from several single strands of hemp yarn that are twisted together. Hemp cord, on the other hand, is made from several strands of twisted, multistrand yarn that are twisted together a second time. This double twisting process produces a smooth, high-quality cording ideal for jewelry making.
Hemp cord is generally used for knotting between larger beads that have larger holes, like African trade beads, recycled glass, whole shells, and large wood beads. The look of knotted hemp works well for men's choker necklaces and bracelets or for organic, bohemian-style jewelry for women.
Hemp cord is manufactured in several thicknesses and is dyed in a complete range of colors. Common diameters of hemp cord are .5 millimeter, 1 millimeter, 1.5 millimeters, and 2 millimeters. Smaller diameters of hemp thread are also available. Both coil crimps and fold-over crimps can be used to finish the ends of hemp cord when adding a clasp.
Leather
Leather cord is popular for knotting beads with larger drill holes. It is made from tanned cowhide that is dyed and formed into round cord ranging in diameter from .5 to 5 millimeters. The most common sizes of leather cord are 1.5 and 2 millimeters, which are used to knot between beads with 2- to 3-millimeter holes. The finest quality leather cording is made from Greek cowhide. Lower-quality leather cords that come from India and China are less supple and tend to be unevenly dyed. High-quality leather cord will not crack, split, or peel like lower-quality leather. Coil crimps should be used to attach a clasp to leather cord.
Satin
Satin cord is a round, synthetic silk cording that comes in a beautiful range of colors. It is available in 1-millimeter and 2-millimeter diameters and is used for knotting between beads with 1 millimeter or larger holes. One-millimeter satin cord is sometimes called "mouse tail" and 2-millimeter satin cord is sometimes called "rat tail." Coil crimps or fold-over crimps can be used to add a clasp to satin cord.
Elastic
Stretch cord, commonly referred to as elastic or elastic cord, is ideal for making stretchy jewelry projects especially stretch bracelets. There are three main types of stretch cord: round translucent stretch cord, multistrand flat stretch floss, and cotton-covered elastic. Stretch cord is not used for knotting between beads, but it is included in this book because it is finished with a knot. A square knot or an overhand knot, secured with a drop of super glue or clear nail polish, may be used to finish any variety of stretch cord.
* Cotton-covered elastic was originally developed for clothing but can be used for stringing heavier beads. This type of elastic cord is not generally recommended for jewelry making as it stretches out easily and quickly. The cord has an opaque elastic core covered with tightly woven cotton. It comes in a limited number of diameters and colors.
* Round stretch cord is frequently used for stringing bracelets and anklets. Depending on brand, round stretch cord comes in a variety of diameters from .5 to 1.8 millimeters. Round stretch cord is firm enough that it does not require the use of a beading needle for stringing beads. In addition to a standard translucent version, round stretch cord is available in a range of colors. Stretch Magic, which comes in several diameters, colors, and spool yardages, is one of the best-selling round stretch cords.
* Stretch floss, sometimes called gossamer floss, is a fibrous, multistrand, flat stretch cord used for stringing bracelets and anklets. Made from Spandex fibers, stretch floss does not lose its elasticity over time. One distinct advantage of stretch floss is that it will begin to fray before breaking, making it clear when it is time to restring a piece of jewelry. When stringing beads, stretch floss is easier to use with a big-eye needle or twisted-wire needle. Popular brands of gossamer floss include Opelon by BeadSmith and Elonga by Beadalon.
Waxed Cord
Waxed linen, traditionally called Irish waxed linen, is a thin linen cord made from tightly spun flax fibers. The cord is coated with beeswax for added strength and durability. The beeswax coating also helps hold the knots securely in place. Waxed linen is popular for knotting between beads with smaller holes and micro macramé. It comes in several weights or thicknesses called plies and is sold on spools or by the yard at bead shops. Waxed linen is popular for its vast color range. When adding a clasp to waxed linen cord, bead tips should be used.
Waxed cotton is a thick, tightly woven cotton cord that is lightly waxed for strength and durability. The best-quality waxed cotton is manufactured in the United States and comes in several diameters. Lower-quality waxed cotton, often produced in India and China, tends to be sticky and unevenly waxed. Waxed cotton is good not only for knotting between beads, but also for macramé and bead stringing. It is also a good alternative to leather or suede cord if you are looking for a vegan option. When adding a clasp to waxed cotton cord, either coil crimps or fold-over crimps can be used.
CHAPTER 2
Cord Ends and Clasps
Beads that have been knotted on cord are made into finished jewelry by adding cord ends and clasps. Cord ends come in a wide range of sizes, shapes, and styles to match the various diameters of cords. Cord ends are almost always needed to attach a clasp to a knotted jewelry project. Clasps also come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and styles.
When selecting cord ends and clasps for knotted jewelry projects, always consider the type and size of cord being used and the style of jewelry being made. Small, delicate beads on fine cord should be paired with delicate findings. Larger beads knotted on heavier cord need sturdy cord ends and clasps to ensure they will be secure. Sometimes these choices are simply a matter of personal preference.
Cord Ends
In order to add a clasp to most pieces of knotted jewelry, some type of cord end must be attached to the cord first. Different styles of cord ends are designed to work with different types and diameters of cord. For best results, always select the style and size of cord ends that best suit the type and diameter of cord being used.
Bead tips are used with small diameter knotting cords like silk, nylon, and waxed linen. They are used for holding and concealing the knots at the end of the cord. There are three types of bead tips.
* Basket bead tips look like tiny baskets. The knot is threaded through a hole in the "basket" of the bead tip and is glued in place. The "handle" of the basket is formed when the hook of the bead tip is shaped into a loop with round nose pliers. The clasp is attached to this loop before it is closed completely.
* Clamshell bead tips look like open clamshells with either an open hook or a closed loop at one end. The string goes through a hole in the joint between the cups of the shell and the knot sits between these cups. The knot is glued in place for added security and then the cups are closed over the knot to completely hide it. The clasp is attached to the open hook or closed loop on the side of the clamshell bead tip.
* Side-closing bead tips look like an open locket, with either an open hook or a closed loop at the top, and a pair of open cups. The cord does not string through this style of bead tip. Rather, the two cups are closed around the knot after it is made. The clasp is attached to the open hook or closed loop on the top of the side-closing bead tip.
Bullion, also known as French wire or gimp, is a traditional alternative to a bead tip. It is a very fine, flexible, coiled wire tube that is especially useful when working with silk cord and pearls. Bullion slides over the silk cord at each end of the jewelry project and serves to protect the cord from the abrasion that can result from rubbing against metal findings.
Crimp findings are used with larger diameter cords such as leather, satin, and waxed cotton. Unlike crimp beads, which are used exclusively with flexible beading wire, crimp findings are fastened to the ends of the cord to attach a clasp. Rings and clasps are then attached to these findings to form the closure.
* Coil crimps are a coil of metal with a loop on the end that fit over and are glued to round stringing materials. A clasp or ring can be easily attached to the loop end. Coil crimps come in a variety of metal colors to match clasps and other findings. They also come in several sizes to accommodate various diameters of round cord.
* Fold-over crimps are U-shaped metal findings with a loop on one end. The sides are pinched and glued around flat or round stringing material. A clasp can be easily attached to the loop end with jump rings. Fold-over crimps come in a variety of metal colors to match clasps and other findings.
* Ribbon crimps are jawlike metal findings with a loop at one end. Some ribbon crimps have teeth, and others have smooth jaws. They are clamped onto flat stringing materials and may be glued for added security.
* Glue-on ends are also called bullet ends, end caps, and barrel caps. This kind of finding is a great alternative for thicker diameter cords. They come in a wide range of sizes to match a variety of thicker cords. Simply glue the cord into the end cap to add a clasp.
Clasps and Rings
Clasps are added to most knotted jewelry as a way to open and close the piece. A traditional strand of knotted pearls is finished with a pearl clasp, also referred to as a fishhook clasp. Other simple clasps used for finishing knotted jewelry include lobster claws, spring rings, and toggles. More specialized clasps for finishing knotted jewelry include S-hooks, J-hooks, and magnetic clasps.
Clasps come in an extensive range of styles and designs. Selecting a clasp for knotted jewelry is partially a matter of application and partially personal preference.
* Barrel clasps are two-piece clasps that screw together. This style of clasp comes in a range of shapes, sizes, and finishes.
* Box clasps are two-piece clasps that are comprised of a box and a small, pressure-fitted piece that snaps into the box. Some box clasps have tiny snap locks for extra security. This clasp is good for use with bracelets and necklaces. Box clasps come in lots of shapes, sizes, decorative designs, and metals from plated to precious.
* J-hooks are shaped pieces of metal that connect with soldered rings or jump rings on either end. This clasp is best used on necklaces and comes in simple and decorative styles. J-hooks come in a range of sizes, designs, and metals.
* Lanyard clasps are thin, one-piece clasps shaped like a long drop with a flexible snap closure. This clasp is used mostly for identification lanyards or jewelry projects knotted on leather or for macramé with hemp. Lanyard clasps are usually made from plated metals.
* Lobster claws are very popular and secure clasps, frequently used with flexible beading wire and crimp beads. They can be used with just about any finding and stringing material to finish a jewelry project. This clasp is shaped like a lobster claw and comes in a variety of sizes, designs, and metals from plated to precious.
* Magnetic clasps are two-part clasps held together by strong magnets. This type of clasp is good for lightweight jewelry and for people who have trouble opening lobster claws or spring rings. Magnetic clasps come in a wide range of sizes, designs, and magnetic strength.
* Pearl clasps are very traditional oval-shaped clasps with filigree detail. This type of clasp has a hook-and-snap closure for added security. Pearl clasps are traditionally made from precious metals but are now available in other metals as well.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "Beaded Jewelry: Knotting Techniques"
by .
Copyright © 2015 Carson M. Eddy, Rachael Evans, and Kate Feld.
Excerpted by permission of Storey Publishing.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
IntroductionChapter One: Knotting Cords
Nylon and Silk - Other Types of Cord
Chapter Two: Cord Ends and Clasps
Cord Ends - Clasps and Rings
Chapter Three: Tools
Knotting Tools - Beading Tools - Work Area
Chapter Four: Knotting Techniques
Prestretching Silk Cord - Basic Knots - Cord End Techniques - Knotting Between Beads - Finishing Techniques
Chapter Five: About Pearls
Pearl Types - Pearl Quality - Care of Pearls
Index