Crochet Style: Over 30 Trendy, Classic and Sporty Accessories for All Ages

Crochet Style: Over 30 Trendy, Classic and Sporty Accessories for All Ages

by Jennifer Dougherty

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Overview

Crochet Style: Over 30 Trendy, Classic and Sporty Accessories for All Ages by Jennifer Dougherty

Beautifully Textured Accessories for the Whole Family

When you’re looking for new patterns to crochet for yourself and others, Crochet Style provides more than 30 one-of-a-kind hats, ear warmers, cowls and more. Jennifer Dougherty is renowned for her crochet designs’ stunning textures, easy-to-follow instructions and stitch techniques that take your accessories from plain to extraordinary. In Crochet Style, she presents new patterns in three styles—trendy, sporty and classic—for sizes ranging from newborn to large adult. Fashion-forward women and teens will love the urban-style slouchy hats and chunky ear warmers with matching cowls and boot cuffs. For a practical, sporty look that stands out in a crowd, close-fitting beanies and fingerless gloves are perfect choices for men and kids. Timeless classics such as cabled ear warmers, woven hats and lacey cowls are sure to be favorites for many years.

The patterns are designed for crocheters with knowledge of basic crochet stitches; they provide great opportunities to develop your skills and learn new stitches. With irresistible photography and a multitude of variations, Crochet Style is an essential source of inspiration, technique and instruction for high-quality, handmade items that are truly unique.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781624143021
Publisher: Page Street Publishing
Publication date: 11/22/2016
Pages: 208
Sales rank: 370,790
Product dimensions: 8.06(w) x 9.03(h) x 0.61(d)

About the Author

Jennifer Dougherty is the founder and owner of the popular crochet design brand Crochet by Jennifer. She runs several online pattern stores, including Etsy, Ravelry and Craftsy, all of which can be found through her website www.crochetbyjennifer.com. Jennifer lives with her family in Hibbing, Minnesota.

Read an Excerpt

Crochet Style

Over 30 Trendy, Classic and Sporty Accessories for All Ages


By Jennifer Dougherty, April Patterson

Page Street Publishing Co.

Copyright © 2016 Jennifer Dougherty
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-62414-307-6



CHAPTER 1

Tandy & Urban


Chunky oversized cowls and slouchy hats are at the height of trendy urban fashion. You'll find many of these styles, along with fashionable accessories, such as the Polar Vortex Fingerless Gloves (here) and Boot Cuffs (here), right here in this collection. Using chunky yarns and large hooks, the majority of these projects work up quickly and can be mixed and matched for fabulous results.


CHUNKY HERRINGBONE SLOUCH

I loved the spiral texture of the first pattern that I designed with this stitch (the Spiral Herringbone Beanie, here) so much that I had to experiment with other styles and yarn weights. Pom-poms add a fun touch, and the slouchy style looks great on everyone.

SKILL LEVEL: ** Intermediate


SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

USING THE BEGINNING CH 2 AS THE FINAL DC IN THE RND: If there is a ch 2 at the beginning of a rnd, it will stand in as the last dc in the rnd. This avoids having a noticeable seam. If the repeat ends on a dc at the end of the rnd, don't make that last dc because the ch 2 is there and will look like a dc when you join to the top of it. If the repeat ends with 2 dc worked in one stitch, make the first dc in the same st as the ch 2. This will look almost exactly the same as working 2 dc in one stitch.

JOINING IN THE "TOP" OF THE CH 2: If there is any confusion on where to join at the end of each rnd, use the following method: Complete the first ch 2 of the rnd, then add a stitch marker around the loop that is on the hook. At the end of the rnd, this is the stitch that will be used for joining.


BABY CHUNKY HERRINGBONE SLOUCH

USE "N" (9 mm) hook, or to match gauge checkpoint.

NOTE:The beginning ch 2 counts as the final dc in each rnd and is included in the stitch count. In this pattern, a dc following a fpdc will always be made in the top of the same post that was just used for the fpdc.

RND 1: Magic ring, ch 2 (counts as dc), 9 dc in ring, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (10) Or ch 2, 10 dc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st in first dc. (10)

RND 2: ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 dc from previous rnd, dc in top of same post just used for fpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (15)

RND 3: ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 fpdc, fpdc around next dc, dc in top of same post just used*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (20)

RND 4: ch 2, *fpdc around next 3 fpdc, fpdc around next dc, dc in top of same post just used*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (25)

GAUGE CHECKPOINT:The diameter of the circle should measure approximately 4? (10 cm) here.

NOTE:The "fpsc and ch 2" at the beginning of the following rnds creates a st that looks like a fpdc. Be sure to crochet the fpsc tightly around the post so it doesn't bulge at the base of the ch 2. It is correct if it looks very similar to a fpdc. Starting the rnd in this fashion (instead of a standard ch 2) will result in a seam that is almost completely invisible.

RND 5: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, 2 bpdc around next dc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, 2 bpdc around next dc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (30)

RND 6: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around next bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around next bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (35)

RND 7: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around each of next 2 bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around each of next 2 bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (40)

NOTE:The next rnd uses the same stitch pattern, but is offset by one stitch, which creates the spiral effect.

RND 8: fpsc around 2nd fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around next 4 sts, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around next 4 sts*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last bpdc will be made around the first skipped fpdc of the previous rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (40)

REPEAT RND 8 until hat measures approximately 6-7? (15-18 cm) from crown to brim (measure from center of magic ring to edge of hat).

CONTINUE with Edging at end of pattern (here).


TODDLER/CHILD CHUNKY HERRINGBONE SLOUCH

USE "N" (9 mm) hook, or to match gauge checkpoint.

NOTE:The beginning ch 2 counts as the final dc in each rnd and is included in the stitch count. In this pattern, a dc following a fpdc will always be made in the top of the same post that was just used for the fpdc.

RND 1: Magic ring, ch 2 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (12)

Or ch 2, 12 dc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st in first dc. (12)

RND 2: ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 dc from previous rnd, dc in top of same post just used for fpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (18)

RND 3: ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 fpdc, fpdc around next dc, dc in top of same post just used*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (24)

RND 4: ch 2, *fpdc around next 3 fpdc, fpdc around next dc, dc in top of same post just used*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (30)

GAUGE CHECKPOINT:The diameter of the circle should measure approximately 4.5-4.75" (11-12 cm) here.

NOTE:The "fpsc and ch 2" at the beginning of the following rnds creates a st that looks like a fpdc. Be sure to crochet the fpsc tightly around the post so it doesn't bulge at the base of the ch 2. It is correct if it looks very similar to a fpdc. Starting the rnd in this fashion (instead of a standard ch 2) will result in a seam that is almost completely invisible.

RND 5: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, 2 bpdc around next dc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, 2 bpdc around next dc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (36)

RND 6: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around next bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around next bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (42)

RND 7: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around each of next 2 bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around each of next 2 bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (48)

NOTE:The next rnd uses the same stitch pattern but is offset by one stitch, which creates the spiral effect.

RND 8: fpsc around 2nd fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around next 4 sts, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around next 4 sts*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last bpdc will be made around the first skipped fpdc of the previous rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (48)

REPEAT RND 8 until hat measures approximately 7-8? (18-20 cm) from crown to brim (measure from center of magic ring to edge of hat).

CONTINUE with Edging at end of pattern (here).


TEEN/ADULT CHUNKY HERRINGBONE SLOUCH USE "N" (9 mm) hook, or to match gauge checkpoint.

NOTE:The beginning ch 2 counts as the final dc in each rnd and is included in the stitch count. In this pattern, a dc following a fpdc will always be made in the top of the same post that was just used for the fpdc.

RND 1: Magic ring, ch 2 (counts as dc), 13 dc in ring, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (14)

Or ch 2, 14 dc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st in first dc. (14)

RND 2: ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 dc from previous rnd, dc in top of same post just used for fpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (21)

RND 3: ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 fpdc, fpdc around next dc, dc in top of same post just used*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (28)

RND 4: ch 2, *fpdc around next 3 fpdc, fpdc around next dc, dc in top of same post just used*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (35)


GAUGE CHECKPOINT:The diameter of the circle should measure approximately 4.5-5" (11-13 cm) here.

NOTE:The "fpsc and ch 2" at the beginning of the following rnds creates a st that looks like a fpdc. Be sure to crochet the fpsc tightly around the post so it doesn't bulge at the base of the ch 2. It is correct if it looks very similar to a fpdc. Starting the rnd in this fashion (instead of a standard ch 2) will result in a seam that is almost completely invisible.

RND 5: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, 2 bpdc around next dc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, 2 bpdc around next dc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (42)

RND 6: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around next bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around next bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (49)

RND 7: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around each of next 2 bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around each of next 2 bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (56)

NOTE:The next rnd uses the same stitch pattern but is offset by one stitch, which creates the spiral effect.

RND 8: fpsc around 2nd fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around next 4 sts, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around next 4 sts*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last bpdc will be made around the first skipped fpdc of the previous rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (56)

REPEAT RND 8 until hat measures approximately 8-9? (20-23 cm) from crown to brim (measure from center of magic ring to edge of hat).

CONTINUE with Edging at end of pattern (here).


LARGE ADULT CHUNKY HERRINGBONE SLOUCH

USE "N" (9 mm) hook, or to match gauge checkpoint.

NOTE:The beginning ch 2 counts as the final dc in each rnd and is included in the stitch count. In this pattern, a dc following a fpdc will always be made in the top of the same post that was just used for the fpdc.

RND 1: Magic ring, ch 2 (counts as dc), 15 dc in ring, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (16)

Or ch 2, 16 dc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st in first dc. (16)

RND 2: ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 dc from previous rnd, dc in top of same post just used for fpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (24)

RND 3: ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 fpdc, fpdc around next dc, dc in top of same post just used*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (32)

RND 4: ch 2, *fpdc around next 3 fpdc, fpdc around next dc, dc in top of same post just used*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ch 2 from previous rnd, beginning ch 2 counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (40)

GAUGE CHECKPOINT:The diameter of the circle should measure approximately 5-5.25? (13-14 cm) here.

NOTE:The "fpsc and ch 2" at the beginning of the following rnds creates a st that looks like a fpdc. Be sure to crochet the fpsc tightly around the post so it doesn't bulge at the base of the ch 2. It is correct if it looks very similar to a fpdc. Starting the rnd in this fashion (instead of a standard ch 2) will result in a seam that is almost completely invisible.

RND 5: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, 2 bpdc around next dc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, 2 bpdc around next dc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (48)

RND 6: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around next bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around next bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (56)

RND 7: fpsc around first fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around each of next 2 bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around each of next 2 bpdc, 2 bpdc around next bpdc*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (64)

NOTE:The next rnd uses the same stitch pattern but is offset by one stitch, which creates the spiral effect.

RND 8: fpsc around 2nd fpdc from previous rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), fpdc around each of next 3 sts, bpdc around next 4 sts, *fpdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around next 4 sts*, repeat between * ...* to end of rnd, last bpdc will be made around the first skipped fpdc of the previous rnd, join with sl st in top of ch 2. (64)

REPEAT RND 8 until hat measures approximately 9-10? (23-25 cm) from crown to brim (measure from center of magic ring to edge of hat).

CONTINUE with Edging.


EDGING (ALL SIZES)

SWITCH TO "J" (6 mm) hook.

RND 1: ch 1, sc in same st as ch 1 and each st to end of rnd, join with sl st in first sc. (40, 48, 56, 64)

REPEAT RND 1 twice.

NOTE:Measure the circumference before completing the Edging. The circumference should be within the size range listed in the beginning of the pattern. If necessary, adjust hook size to meet gauge and redo the last rnd.

LAST RND: ch 1, sc in same st as ch 1 and each st to end of rnd, fasten off with invisible join (or sl st) in first sc. (40, 48, 56, 64) WEAVE IN all ends.

OPTIONAL POM-POM: Add pom-pom on top of hat. Pom-poms can be purchased, made by hand using materials you have at home or made with a purchased pom-pom maker such as Clover brand pom-pom maker.


CHUNKY KYLIE SLOUCH

The amazing texture in this hat is achieved with a unique method of turning after each round. Working the hat in both rows and rounds enables the wonderful texture on both sides of this hat. Best of all, the "seam" from joining is virtually invisible. The end result is a wonderfully "squishy" and thick hat.

SKILL LEVEL: * * Intermediate


CHUNKY KYLIE SLOUCH (ALL SIZES)

USE #5 chunky weight yarn and a "K" (6.5 mm) hook for the ribbing. This pattern is worked from the bottom up.


BOTTOM RIBBING

ROW 1: (ch 5 for smaller sizes) ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook (use back loops of ch) and each ch to end of row. (4, 6)

ROW 2: ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO of each st to end of row. (4, 6)

REPEAT ROW 2 until the following measurement is reached (measure lightly stretched). The sl st ribbing is very stretchy. If not sure on size, go smaller.

SEAM: ch 1 and sl st the short ends of the ribbing together (using one loop from each end). Turn right side out. The pattern is now worked in rounds instead of rows.

FOUNDATION RND: ch 2, work (64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 88) dc evenly around ribbing, join with sl st in first dc.

CONTINUE with Texture Section.

TEXTURE SECTION

SWITCH TO "N" (9 mm) hook

NOTE:Both combos of (dc, ch 1, dc) and (fpdc, ch 1, fpdc) are referred to as "v-stitch" in this pattern.


(Continues...)

Excerpted from Crochet Style by Jennifer Dougherty, April Patterson. Copyright © 2016 Jennifer Dougherty. Excerpted by permission of Page Street Publishing Co..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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Table of Contents

Contents

Title Page,
Copyright Notice,
Dedication,
Introduction,
1 — TRENDY & URBAN,
Chunky Herringbone Slouch,
Chunky Kylie Slouch,
Marietta Scarf or Cowl,
Morgan Scarf or Cowl,
Polar Vortex Beanie,
Polar Vortex Cowl,
Polar Vortex Fingerless Gloves,
Polar Vortex Boot Cuffs,
Powder Puff Slouch,
Powder Puff Boot Cuffs,
2 — CASUAL & SPORTY,
Arrowhead Beanie,
Aspen Beanie,
Cascading Ridges Beanie,
Cascading Ridges Fingerless Gloves,
Cascading Ridges Boot Cuffs,
Charisma Mittens,
Gridlock Beanie,
Reversible Harlequin Beanie,
Spiral Herringbone Beanie,
Texture Weave Beanie,
Texture Weave Ear Warmer,
Texture Weave Mittens or Fingerless Gloves,
3 — CLASSIC & TIMELESS,
Aurora Ear Warmer,
Basket Weave Flapper Newsboy,
Chunky Bow Ear Warmer,
Chunky Diagonal Weave Pom-Pom Slouch,
Chunky Texture Weave Earflap Hat,
Nordic Beanie,
Ridgeline Ear Warmer,
Summit Cowl,
Super Chunky Cabled Ear Warmer,
Twisted Cables Ear Warmer,
Resources,
Acknowledgments,
Index,
About the Author,
Copyright,

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