Defiled on the Ayeyarwaddy: One Woman's Mid-Life Travel Adventures on Myanmar's Great River

Defiled on the Ayeyarwaddy: One Woman's Mid-Life Travel Adventures on Myanmar's Great River

by Ma Thanegi


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Myanmar artist and author of The Native Tourist, Ma Thanegi is always hungry-for food, conversation, and a good story. Not the sort of woman to settle into a comfortable middle-aged existence of tending to her knitting while watching soap operas, she decides to satisfy a life-long dream and travel the thirteen hundred-mile length of her country's Ayeyarwaddy River.

Taking little with her but her red lipstick, her curiosity, and her unquenchable sense of humor, she sets off on a journey that Paul Theroux or Redmond O'Hanlon would envy. Traveling on any boat that will let her come aboard, sleeping on wooden decks, and eating with strangers, Ma Thanegi observes Myanmar with the eye of an artist and the insight of a lifelong resident.

Stalking dancers at a Kachin festival, careening down the rock-infested white- water gorge of the perilous First Defile, traveling with relief expeditions into the Nargis-ravaged delta region, feeding a dragon that lurks at her journey's end, Ma Thanegi savors every adventure that comes her way and shares the details in her own inimitable, opinionated and thoroughly delightful style.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781934159248
Publisher: ThingsAsian Press
Publication date: 09/01/2010
Pages: 275
Product dimensions: 5.50(w) x 8.50(h) x 0.70(d)

About the Author

Ma Thanegi
An artist, a writer, and a former political prisoner, Ma Thanegi has “walked the walk” in every aspect of her varied life. The author of the travel classic, The Native Tourist , she has written many books on the art and history of Myanmar.

Table of Contents

Preface VI

Home Base Yangon: An Introduction to My City and Me IX

Part I Birthplace of the Ayeyarwaddy

1 Dancing at the Manau 16

2 Witchery of Gold 26

3 Birth of a River 38

4 Defiled on the Ayeyarwaddy 56

5 On the Banner 70

6 The New Year? or Not 85

Part II The Central Plains

7 Mandalay, Man Amour 94

8 The Height of Luxury: On the Road to Mandalay 102

9 Prelude in Bagan 114

10 On the Cargo Boat 128

Part III The Delta

11 Disaster 146

12 Hitching a Ride to the Second Century 165

13 Great Balloons of Fire 178

14 Meeting a Lovely Ogress 188

15 Sardines on Board 202

16 My Pretty Pathein Girl 214

17 Feeding the Dragon 226

18 End of My River 238

Map, Author Information, Appreciation 248

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