Thankfully,``nouvelle'' in France does not appear to mean what it does in California. The French have staged no full-fledged revolution against such Ur-desserts as Levy's ( Chocolate Sensations ) coffee layer cake with toasted almonds, its coffee-spiked buttercream layering butter- and egg-rich genoise. If anything, ``nouvelle'' here encourages variations on a successful theme: in the case of mocha mousse cake, cocoa-pecan meringue takes the place of genoise and mocha mousse for buttercream. Whatever the worries about waistlines, the French ``nouvelle'' also lacks the implication of lightness, except for a few fresh fruit sorbets. In more than 200 recipes spanning macadamia macaroons, classic chocolate truffles and creamy coffee custards, the complexity index varies from simple pound cakes to tricky meringue-encased vacherins. But the Tastemaker Award-winning author is kind, making allowances for springform pans, packaged ladyfingers, gelatin and other humble helps. (Oct.)
This third and final volume in this series ( Dinner Inspirations, Classic Country & Contemporary Entrees , LJ 9/15/89, and Vegetable Creations , LJ 2/15/88) by a prolific cookbook author has a curiously old-fashioned feel to it. Levy includes many classic recipes along with newer creations, and some of the innovations she describes already seem rather familiar. Her preparation notes are as clear and thoughtful as ever, and there are some interesting ideas here, but only larger collections need consider.