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Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Silver and Other Jewelry Metals: How to Test, Select and Care for Them

Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Silver and Other Jewelry Metals: How to Test, Select and Care for Them

by Renee Newman
Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Silver and Other Jewelry Metals: How to Test, Select and Care for Them

Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Silver and Other Jewelry Metals: How to Test, Select and Care for Them

by Renee Newman




A full-color guide for lay people and professionals about gold, platinum, palladium, silver, copper, bronze, brass, iron, stainless steel, Damascus steel, titanium, niobium, aluminum, tungsten carbide and cobalt chrome. Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Silver & Other Jewelry Metals explains how to test, buy, sell, and care for jewelry with precious and alternative metals. High-quality color photos show how these metals are creatively used in jewelry. Besides providing an historical perspective and interesting facts about the metals, this book discusses jewelry manufacturing methods, plating and responsible mining & business practices.

You will learn:

  • How to read the stamps on jewelry mountings
  • How to identify jewelry metals
  • How to determine the gold content in jewelry
  • How and where to sell your unwanted jewelry
  • How to spot a fair consignment contract
  • How to select refiners and prepare shipments to them
  • How to prevent and remove silver tarnish
  • How to clean metal jewelry

253 color photos plus diagrams, tables and charts

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Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780929975474
Publisher: International Jewelry Publications
Publication date: 02/23/2013
Pages: 140
Product dimensions: 6.00(w) x 8.90(h) x 1.00(d)

Table of Contents

1. Jewelry Metals: Key Facts

Precious metals prices compared

Non precious metals prices compared

Terms Related to Gold and Platinum Content

Terms Related to Metals and Imitation Gold

Weights, Measures, and Marks

Miscellaneous Terms

2. Gold

A Brief History of Gold

Which is Better: 14K or 18K Gold?

Gold colors

3. Platinum Group Metals

A Brief History of Platinum

Platinum content and notation

Platinum Alloys

4. Palladium

5. Silver

6. Copper, Brass and Bronze

7. Manufacturing Methods

Lost Wax Casting

Stamping (Die Striking)


3D Printing from CAD (Additive Manufacturing)

CAD Milling (Subtractive Manufacturing)

Hand Fabrication

Handmade Jewelry

Why Manufacturing Methods are Often Combined

8. Real or Fake?

9. Determining Karat Value (Fineness)

10. Stainless Steel and Iron

11. Tungsten

12. Colorful alternative metals---niobium, titanium, tantalum, zirconium

13. Plating, Bonding, Coating and Enameling

14. Responsible mining and Recycling

15. Selling precious metal pieces

Tips on getting the most money for your jewelry

Refining preparing jewelry for refiners

Selecting a refiner

16. Caring for Metal Jewelry

Cleaning Metal Mountings

What People are Saying About This

Kate Pearce

This current book by Renee Newman, GG, is an excellent and comprehensive guide to everything concerning the metals used in jewelry design. It is written clearly and concisely and has an abundance of charts and color photographs. It is not excessively technical yet it covers the topics thoroughly. I have always felt that my background as a BFA graduate with a major in metalsmithing and jewelry design gave me an advantage in appraising jewelry. In my opinion this book will help close this knowledge gap for anyone interested in jewelry metals, be they appraisers or consumers. Renee covers everything from ancient markings to X-ray diffraction testing. From the tedious ancient processes of hand crafted Mokume Gane and Damascus steel crafting to Cad Cam and Concept Laser Additive Process manufacturing of the 21st century.
The chapters are laid out in a logical progression from covering alloys to caring for metals. The only deficit I noted was that she did not say how much a "box" of baking soda is as a measurement when giving a handy recipe for cleaning silver with the Aluminum retraction process, a very minor detail.
The various metals used and methods used to test them are thoroughly covered; though today most appraisers use digital metal analyzers and only use touch stone testing as a back up. I especially liked the chapters on "Green" metal practices as well as the advice on evaluating Vintage and Antique Jewelry. As appraisers, we have been trained to thoroughly examine the jewelry that crosses our desk and look past the obvious. The chapter on "How much is your jewelry worth?" will encourage the lay person to stop and take another realistic look at the jewelry they own.
As I have found with the other books Newman has written, this newly revised Metals' book is a must have for the appraiser's library as well as the book shelf of the clients we serve in our stores and offices. --Kate Pearce, GG, The Jewelry Appraiser, published by the National Assn. of Jewelry Appraisers

Jack Ogden

The author of this book on the metals used in jewellery needs no introduction to gemmologists. Renee Newmans' popular series of books on gemstones is as invaluable to retailers selling gems as to gemmology students. This volume is an updated and expanded replacement or her 2000 Gold and Platinum Jewelry Buying Guide. For gemmologists, a book on metals might seem peripheral, but the precious metals have always served a supporting role in gem-set jewellery. And this is a useful, practical handbook. . .
The properties and use of the various metals are described --- the colours of gold for example --- along with useful information ranging from how silver jewellery can be blackened to methods of testing and identification of frauds. The chapter on manufacturing techniques such as casting is up to date with its mention CAD and 3D printing. Hand fabrication is only briefly discussed --- a sad but realistic recognition that most jewllery on the market is not made by hand. There is coverage of decorative techniques such as plating and enameling, and even about responsible mining. Inclusion of chapters on copper, brass, bronze and other metals reflects how, as precious metal prices rise, many retailers are looking to less costly alternatives. . . . All in all this is a very useful brief guide, and one that will be relevant to anyone. --Jack Ogden FGA, former CEO of Gem-A (British Gemmological Assn), Gems & Jewellery

Eve Alfillé

Your latest work really is incredibly informative, even for us who work with these metals every day, and certainly for a public that has no ready access to any information at all on this subject!
Every time you announce a new topic, I am amazed that no one else ever thought to focus on it: exotic gems, rare gems, each of those merited a book, but no one thought of isolating them. Each time one of your books appears, I slap my head and think: why didn't anyone think of that before? Each of your books fulfills a real need, and you perform the rare magical act of identifying with your reader, never talking down or assuming.
As always, the presentation is impeccable, photos, text, clear and succinct. I loved the tables of alloy composition, and enjoyed the tour behind an appraiser's methods. Kudos, I can't wait to see what you do next! --Eve Alfillé, Eve Alfillé Gallery, Evanston, IL

Chris Booth

What a fascinating book! I've been in the jewelry business since 1972 and yet even with all that experience, your book provided new insights. --Chris Booth, Exotica Jewelry, Clarkdale , AZ

Lee J. Thompson

I must say that you have put together a well-crafted tome. Your book is very informative & easy to read & understand. You have obviously done your research & clearly know much more about metallurgy than the average person in the industry, certainly more than I know! --Lee J. Thompson, Jewelers Refining Group, Inc., New York City , NY

Dan Kapler

Congratulations on a wonderful job! You have managed to include a tremendous amount of very useful information on a very expansive and potentially dry subject, while staying concise, interesting and even entertaining. Honestly, I learned a great deal about metals I did not know - so much so that this book will now be with me on the job at all times as a primary reference. --Dan Kapler, Refining Sales Manager, David H. Fell & Company, Inc. Los Angeles , CA

Customer Reviews