In this thrilling and candid memoir, world record-holding and controversial Big Wave surfer Garrett McNamara chronicles his emotional quest to ride the most formidable waves on earth.
Garrett McNamara—affectionately known as GMac—set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells.
But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes—to risk everything for one thrilling ride? Is riding giant waves the ultimate exercise in control or surrender?
Personal and emotional, readers will know GMac as never before, seeing for the first time the personal alongside the professional in an exciting, intimate look at what drives this inventive, iconoclastic man. Surfing awesome giants isn’t just thrill seeking, he explains—it’s about vanquishing fears and defeating obstacles past and present. Surfers and non-surfers alike will embrace McNamara’s story—as they have William Finnegan’s Barbarian Days—an its intimate look at the enigmatic pursuit of riding waves, big and small.
Hound of the Sea is a record of perseverance, passion, and healing. Thoughtful, suspenseful, and spiritually profound, McNamara reveals the beautiful soul of surfing through the eyes of one of its most daring and devoted disciples.
|Product dimensions:||6.10(w) x 9.00(h) x 1.20(d)|
About the Author
Garrett Mcnamara holds the Guinness record for surfing the world’s largest wave, in addition to garnering numerous first-place wins in professional competitions around the world. He is the first foreigner ever to be awarded the prestigious Vasco de Gama Medal of Honor from the Portuguese Navy. McNamara splits his time between Hawaii, Portugal, and the rest of the world, where he explores with his family.
Karen Karbo is the author of 14 award-winning novels, memoirs, and works of nonfiction. Her adult novels have all been named New York Times Notable Books of the Year. Her genre-bending Kick Ass Women series, including the international best seller The Gospel According to Coco Chanel, mingles biography, memoir, philosophy, humor, and self-help to examine how we should live. Her most recent book, In Praise of Difficult Women, was an national bestseller. Her essays, articles, and reviews have appeared in Elle, Vogue, Marie Claire, Outside, O, the New York Times, The Los Angeles Review of Books, Salon.com, and other magazines. Visit her online at karenkarbo.com.
Table of Contents
Prologue: The Wipeout 1
Escape Artist 11
Luther Burbank 13
Watermelon Seed on My Ding Dong 18
Mad Bob 21
In God's Hands, More or Less 26
Tortilla and Butter, Please 38
Christ Family 50
In the Wind 55
Five Brothers 59
Uncooperative and Unruly 68
Cement City 74
Lost at Threes 86
The Dreaded 7 91
Da Karma 99
Gustavo the Peruvian 103
Going Pro 119
Making the Most of the Japanese Invasion 124
Nami Oki (Surf's Up) 128
My Brother Becomes the One to Watch 133
Something Bad Happens 139
I've Fallen and I Can't Get Up 145
Tow-in Now 158
Family Guy 165
Garrett McNamara, Shopkeeper 171
Hound of the Sea 197
Dryland Life 214
Enchanted Evening 229
Nazaré, meu coração 237
Seventy-Eight Feet 251
Incident at Cortes Bank 258
Big Mama 267
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
***I voluntarily reviewed an Advanced Reader's Copy of this book for my honest review & I thank the publishers Harper Collins NZ*** Considering I hardly ever pick biographical books when I was given the catalogue for reviews from #HarperCollinsNZ the first thing that grabbed my eye was the cover, as a keen photographer it just drew me in to look closer, that #wave, its like #epic (I am channeling my latent #surferchick vibe, can you tell) I LOVE the sea, having been born on the East Coast of England, and then moving to NZ and also living even nearer the sea (200m away) I then lived on the coast of Queensland for 3 years, and now I am back in Invercargill, and drive to Bluff twice a day and I do enjoy the ever-changing view of the sea. My goal is to get back to living with a #seaview again soon. I have always wanted to learn to surf (and I decided to add it to my bucket list after reading this book) OK I doubt I will ride waves as big as Garrett does, but the thing is I've been glued to this book, and it is not just because it's about #surfing, because although it is, it is also about striving for your #dreams #goals and the main lesson I got from reading this book is that you #neverquit. It was a truly inspirational read, at first, the book had my eyebrows raised, his childhood is like off the scale opposite to myself and my husband's, I couldn't imagine how he and his brothers did not fall foul of a sticky end. BUT I do think his unusual upbringing had something to do with the way he looks at life. He talks candidly about his life, the highs and lows, the pages were full of stories that showed his Passion, commitment, friendship, loyalty and honesty. He lives for the moment, for all the possibilities, to pursue your dreams no matter they be big or small. Quote: Fear is a choice, something we manufacture in our in our minds. When we think about the past or the future we become afraid. We're afraid because we remember when something bad happened before and we're scared it's going to happen again. If we are in the moment and enjoying the moment and making the best of the moment, there is no fear. I think the one thing I will take from reading this book is that even when everything was going wrong, he still carried on... this has had an effect on me, So I will keep picking myself up as life throws its spanners in my life, smile and enjoy the journey down this road called life.