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CHAPTER 1
Super Soil
THE KEY TO GROWING super foods is to provide them with super soil. And the key to super soil is to nourish it with organic material like compost and manure, and not to bombard it with artificial fertilisers, pesticides, weed killers and fungicides. It may look brown and uninspiring, but the mud beneath your feet, is just as important as the food you grow in it.
Of course, even kale sown in a nutrient-depleted, chemically-laden soil, may look and taste like kale, just as a child given a diet of sweets, chips and the occasional vitamin tablet, will still grow and look like a child. But looks aren't everything – it's what on the inside that counts. Fortunately, nature provides everything needed for nutrient-rich plants, meaning you don't need to rely on anything created in a lab.
The importance of healthy soil
Soil is a unique, living, breathing, moving, underground environment, as complex and as diverse as the one we inhabit above ground. It's teeming with micro-organisms including bacteria, fungi, protozoa and microscopic worms, and scores of larger creatures like millipedes and earthworms.
Like a finely tuned orchestra, these organisms work together to produce a complex masterpiece. But take out the string section, or zap some of these microbes with alien chemicals and things start to go wrong. Try to beat nature at its own game with synthetic compounds and the harmony is lost, the rhythm is disturbed.
Soil is a perfectly composed symphony of elements, with everything needed for plants to thrive. All you need to do is support it, like a sympathetic conductor, who steers but doesn't override the original composition.
Yet as plants grow they take nutrients from the earth which need to be replaced. Fortunately, we can use nature to do this job for us, without needing to resort to anything out of a plastic container.
What do fruit and vegetables need to grow?
In school, you probably learnt that plants need water, warmth, air, light and nutrients to grow. Which is of course, correct. But for super growth leading to nutrient-packed plants, crops also need a healthy balance of the right minerals, the most important of which are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, or N, P and K, to give them their chemical symbols. All plants need all these minerals, and others, but in different amounts.
NITROGEN
Nitrogen promotes leaf growth and helps plants to grow greener and faster. Nitrogen can be depleted over time by plants, or by being washed away, and is the mineral needed in greatest quantities. Plants lacking in nitrogen will look sickly and yellow, with limited growth. However, that doesn't mean you need to marinade your crops in nitrogen – too much of a good thing isn't good either, and an excess can lead to too much foliage at the expense of something edible, as well as other problems. As nitrogen stimulates growth, plants need it most during spring and summer and some crops such as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and other brassicas, are particularly nitrogen-hungry. Good sources include urine, animal manure and nettle tea (see the next section.)
PHOSPHOROUS
Phosphorous is good for root growth and disease resistance and helps plants to grow strong. Most soils, especially those that contain plenty of organic matter, have adequate amounts of phosphorous, so it shouldn't be necessary to add any extra and deficiencies are uncommon. However, if the pH of soil is too high or too low, phosphorous may be locked up. Lack of phosphorous can result in weak plants with a feeble root system, and purple-tinged leaves. Too much phosphorous can block the absorption of other minerals.
POTASSIUM
Potassium, which is sometimes called potash, is needed for plants to flower and produce fruit. It also helps protect plants against disease. Potassium is especially useful for fruiting plants, like tomatoes, as it boosts sugar levels in the plant, promoting bumper crops of the best tasting, sweetest fruit. So a lack of potassium may result in low levels of fruit, with a less than spectacular flavour. Don't overdo it, though; too much potassium can stop other minerals like magnesium from being absorbed, and this too can lead to poor growth and other issues. Good organic sources of potassium include seaweed and comfrey (see the next section.)
A BIT OF EVERYTHING
To remain healthy, plants need a good supply of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, as well as other minerals including calcium, sulphur and magnesium, and a number of micronutrients, or trace elements which are needed in smaller quantities. All these minerals are found in good, healthy soil. So, in order to grow the tastiest, most nutrient-dense fruit and veg, it helps to understand your soil and how to replenish it. Treat it nicely and it will repay you generously.
WHAT IS SOIL?
Soil is made up of minerals (rock, sand, clay and silt) plus air, water and organic matter from dead plants and animals. This organic matter is decomposed into humus thanks to the presence of all those worms and microbes. It is during this essential process that the vital nutrients that plants need for healthy growth are released into the soil. Not all soils are created equal, though, so it helps to work out what kind of soil you have before getting stuck in.
Get to know your own soil
To bring out the best in your plants, it's good to know what you are planting them in. There are several different soil personalities – or types – from light-hearted and easy to get along with, to heavy going and intense. All have their pros and cons, you just need to play to their strengths and address any issues.
Sandy
Sandy soils have larger particles than other types of soil. This makes it easy to dig and quick to warm up in spring. Sandy soil doesn't tend to get waterlogged, as the loose texture means rain drains quickly through it. The downside is that nutrients are easily washed away and sandy soil tends to get dry in summer. Covering this type of soil with organic material helps it to retain both nutrients and moisture. Root crops like carrots and parsnips do particularly well in sandy soils.
Clay
Clay soils are made up of tiny particles with a tendency to clump together. If in doubt, ask your back – clay soils are heavy and hard to dig! On a positive note, this type of soil gets an A grade for retaining moisture and nutrients, so hungry crops like broccoli and cauliflower will thrive.
A soil that is rich in clay can easily become waterlogged, so avoid trampling on it and compressing it after rain. But at least there will be less watering to do during summer. Clay soils are slow to warm up in spring so don't be tempted to sow your seeds too early, as they won't germinate. The upside of this is that the heat is retained for longer into autumn. Towards the end of the year, when the harvest is over and the ground is still soft, dig in some organic matter to improve the structure of clay soil and make it more workable. Your vertebrae will thank you.
Silty
Silty soils are made of small, silty grains. Like sandy soils, this type of soil is easy to dig and free-draining, but can be low in nutrients. It is also easily compacted after heavy rain, so it helps to cover the surface with a blanket of organic material like compost.
Loamy
If you have this type of soil, count yourself lucky. Loam soil is a perfect balance of clay, sand and silt. It is easy to work with and holds water and nutrients well without becoming clogged up or waterlogged.
Multiple personality
In reality, most soil doesn't fit neatly into one category and is likely to be a combination of all or some of the above, with one type of particle dominating.
The quickest way to work out your soil's personality is to get your hands dirty. Roll some into a ball and if the soil sticks together easily and holds its shape, then it's high in clay. If it feels gritty and falls apart easily, it's sandy. In the end, it doesn't really matter what type of soil you have. As long as you look after it, stuff will grow. And don't worry too much about the weeds; they will grow too but their growth most likely indicates the presence of nutrients.
So how do you turn your sand, clay, silt or loam into super soil? Fortunately, there are all sorts of ways to cultivate the perfect medium in which to grow super foods. From making your own compost, to brewing your own nettle tea and even taking advantage of your own bodily fluids, it all comes down to working with nature.
COMPOSTING – Garden compost
Home composting forms the groundwork to organic gardening and is essentially just a form of recycling. Most people recycle glass and plastic, so why not kitchen and garden waste too? As plants grow they take nutrients from the earth. When we eat these plants, the nutrients are absorbed by our own bodies.
But anything left over – the leaves, the stems, the bits the kids chuck on the floor – can be rotted down to provide compost, allowing all the remaining nutrients to be returned to where they came from. It saves time and money and will do your soil the world of good.
Making compost is a bit like making soup – you chuck in the right ingredients, mix them together and let them simmer – or in this case, let the micro-organisms get on with the decomposition process.
Choose your bin
To start with you will need a decent sized receptacle in which to dump all your waste. There are plenty of options to suit every garden and budget, from the familiar Tardis-style plastic compost bins, to hot bins and even solar-powered contraptions. Alternatively, you can make your own compost bin out of wooden pallets, or fence posts and chicken wire.
Stand your compost bin on bare soil. This allows moisture to get out and worms and other organisms to get in. If you don't have a spare patch of earth, then add a layer of soil to the bottom of the bin. You could introduce some worms too.
Choose a site with a bit of shade that's not at the mercy of the elements, as the process works best with consistent temperatures. It can take anything from six months to two years to make compost, though things speed up during the summer.
The compost is ready when it's dark and crumbly and smells slightly sweet. By this stage it will be full of plant nutrients. Dig it into the ground during the autumn to help improve the fertility and condition of the soil. Or use it as a mulch in spring and summer, spreading it around the base of plants to help conserve moisture and suppress weeds, while nourishing the crops.
Useful tips
* Use a garden fork to turn the compost over every month or so. This can be a bit tricky but it helps to aerate the heap which speeds up decomposition.
* Keep the compost damp, but not too wet. It shouldn't be slimy.
* If possible, try to have at least two compost bins, one full of ready to use rotted down matter, and another that you keep topping up with waste. The decomposition process works best when the bin is full, so try to fill it up as quickly as possible.
* You can speed up the composting process by providing an extra dose of nitrogen. Good sources include nettle and comfrey leaves and used pet bedding, for example from chickens, rabbits, guinea-pigs or hamsters.
* If you don't have any small animals to hand (or even if you do) the most convenient compost activator actually resides in your own bladder. Human urine is rich in nitrogen and perfect for speeding things up in the bin or on the heap - and think how much water you'll save by not having to flush. Although from a practical perspective, it can be easier to add this liquid gold via a bucket. Especially if you're a woman.
What to throw in a compost bin
Compost should be a roughly equal mix of wet greens (nitrogen-rich stuff) and dry browns (carbon-rich stuff.)
Greens:
• Fruit and vegetable peelings and waste
• Grass cuttings (but not too much)
• Tea bags
• Annual weeds
Browns:
• Scrunched up newspaper
• Cardboard (not coloured)
• Empty loo rolls and egg boxes
• Woody prunings and twigs (chop or shred these before adding them)
• Straw
Other things to add:
• Crushed egg shells
• Natural fibres (cotton or wool)
• Ash from wood fires (not too much)
What not to add:
• Diseased plants
• Dairy, meat or fish products – this can lead to harmful bacteria and encourage rats
• Dog, cat or human faeces
• Perennial weeds – these will remain in the compost and return to the soil once you start using the compost
• Citrus (slow to break down and can be too acidic for worms)
Other types of compost
Leaf mould
Despite the name, leaf mould isn't mould, but a compost made from decayed leaves, also known as 'gardener's gold'. It isn't as rich in nutrients as other types of compost but is excellent for improving the structure of soil and for spreading on the surface as a mulch. It can also be used as potting compost.
To make leaf mould, simply scoop up piles of fallen leaves in autumn and dump them into a wire enclosure. The easiest way to make one of these is to hammer four posts into the ground, then wrap some chicken wire or mesh around the outside of the frame and fix it to the posts, so it looks like a square cage. The mesh will stop the leaves from blowing away, while allowing the air to circulate. Top up the pile whenever there are more leaves to collect but avoid using those from busy roads which may contain pollutants.
Alternatively, you can you can make leaf mould in thick black bin bags. Simply punch some holes in the bags for ventilation, fill them with leaves, sprinkle on some water, and tie the bags at the top. Then leave in a cool, dark place – a shed is ideal – for a couple of years.
It takes about two years for the leaves to rot down completely. By this stage it will be dark and crumbly and can be used to condition the soil, or as potting compost. If you can't wait that long, leaf mould can also be used as a mulch after just one year, to help keep down weeds, and slowly improve the soil.
Bokashi
Another way to turn kitchen waste into compost is to ferment it. Strange as it sounds, the technique, which was developed in Japan in the 1980s, has recently started to catch on elsewhere.
It involves placing food waste (fish, meat, bones, the lot) in a special airtight bucket and adding extra-efficient micro-organisms, known as EM.
The waste ferments within a matter of weeks and you can then dig it into the soil, or add it to a compost bin. The system is fast, odourless and compact and you can recycle food that you can't add to a normal compost bin. The downside is you need to buy the bokashi kit in the first place.
Farmyard manure
Well-rotted horse manure is full of nutrients and is a valuable asset for any veg patch or allotment. If you don't have your own thoroughbred, riding stables, farms and police stables, often sell or give away manure. If you're really lucky, some allotments even have the stuff delivered.
Worms and their poo
Worms are an essential part of the garden. As well as aerating the soil, they break down organic matter and leave behind worm casts, or waste, which are full of nutrients that enrich the soil and promote healthy plant growth. Charles Darwin concluded that life on earth would be impossible without worms. Healthy soil should be positively squirming with worms, and you can encourage them by adding plenty of organic matter for them to chomp on. And avoid using a rotavator, as, contrary to popular belief, a severed worm doesn't metamorphose into twins! Even digging carries a threat, so it's better to use a fork rather than a spade to minimise casualties.
You could go even further and invest in a wormery, or make your own worm hotel. A wormery is a great way of turning kitchen waste into high quality compost and is particularly good if you don't have much space, as they take up much less room than a normal compost bin, and benefit from having small amounts of waste added at a time.
Green manure
Green manures are plants grown specifically to benefit the soil and prevent erosion. Many absorb nitrogen from the air, which is released into the soil when the plant is dug into the ground. Green manures are also known as 'cover crops' as they are used to cover bare soil and suppress weeds. As such, they are often sown in autumn and grown over winter, before being dug into the soil in spring. Good ones to grow include crimson clover and grazing rye.
Liquid fertilisers
Compost and manure provide the backbone of organic gardening and will do wonders for your soil. But some greedy crops like broccoli, tomatoes, cauliflowers and strawberries will benefit from an extra nutritional boost in the form of a healthy drink, or liquid feed. But why buy commercial fertilisers, when you can save money and resources by rustling up home-brewed liquid feeds in your own back garden, as easily as whipping up a smoothie?
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Excerpted from "How to Grow & Eat Your Own Super Foods"
by .
Copyright © 2018 Becky Dickinson.
Excerpted by permission of Pen and Sword Books Ltd.
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