"I am not moving to Iraq to teach."
How does a liberal American girl in red suede boots end up teaching English to conservative Muslim Iraqis in headscarves?
Gretchen Berg has met the recession: she has eaten cereal for dinner, given up the gym membership, and come face to face with looming unemployment. To cope, she decided to uproot her life and move to the Middle East. She expected to make some good money, pay off some bad debt, and take some photos of camels. She did not expect to feel at home. She did not expect to fall for a student. She did not expect Diet Coke withdrawal.
Irreverent, hilarious, and completely relevant, I Have Iraq in My Shoe takes a single, broke, fashion-conscious American female who prefers Project Runaway to CNN and tosses her into Iraq in exchange for cash and vacation time.
Watch the desert sand fly!
|Product dimensions:||5.20(w) x 7.90(h) x 1.20(d)|
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
I hate the word recession. Recession was what happened to unlucky men’s hairlines. Recession was very bad news for your gums. Recession meant “no new shoes” in 2008.
My job as a website copywriter was set to end in December, a very short two months away, and I had been sending out résumés since July, with a myriad of nothing to show for itlike when my dad would say to me, “You want to know what you’re getting for your birthday? Close your eyes. What do you see?” and then he would chuckle to himself. Nothing.
Oh, the woes of impending unemployment. Why couldn’t potential employers recognize my amazing potential? Why? Why? In a perfect world they would coordinate with my grade school teachers and sort things out:
Mrs. Vivian, First-Grade Teacher: Gretchen is not working up to her potential…
Christian Louboutin, CEO of Christian Louboutin Shoes: Oh, so this Gretchen has potential? Let’s bring her in for an interview!
Something like that. Not having my amazing potential recognized was horribly discouraging. Other things to file under Horribly Discouraging were nagging credit card bills, rent, automobile insurance, health insurance, food, the inflated cost of gas…these were the reasons I found myself metaphorically clad in a dingy old dress, sitting crumpled on the dry, barren ground, a la Scarlett O’Hara, sobbing into my apron.
I fancied myself a modern-day Scarlett. Margaret Mitchell began her wildly romantic, sweeping epic with “Scarlett O’Hara was not beautiful,” and I love a heroine I can relate to.
Scarlett was also “strong and unscrupulous, passionate and earthy.”
- Strong: I once assembled a mini-trampoline by myself, when the directions called for three people to do the job. Three.
- Unscrupulous: I ordered a ski bag from a big online retailer, and instead of one ski bag they sent me two ski bags. I didn’t return the second ski bag; I gave it to my sister Jessie. Returning Second Ski Bag would have required boxing and taping the bag up, getting in the car, driving to UPS, driving home from UPS. Oh God, I’m exhausted just telling you about it.
- Passionate: Ask any of my friends how I feel about Humboldt Fog or truffle cheese.
- Earthy: Sometimes I go to the store without makeup.
Scarlett and I also shared similar views on the topic of war: “Fiddle-dee-dee. War, war, war. This war talk’s spoiling all the fun at every party this spring. I get so bored I could scream.” This was precisely my inner monologue when party talk turned to war in the Middle East, politics in general, or whatever was on the news last night. No, I did not see that special report. Project Runway was on. I’m bored! Tell me my dress is pretty!
And Scarlett was highly inventive when it came to fashion. I haven’t yet turned my living-room curtains into a dress, but I did cut the ankle straps off a pair of platform peep-toes because they felt too restrictive.
You know what else was restrictive? The recession.
One day, in the middle of October, I was checking my voice mail, in the hopes that one of the résumés I had sent out had garnered some proper attention:
Voice mail: Beep, “GERRRRRRTS, it’s Warren, and no, I’m not drunk.”
I hated it when my friend Warren called me “Gerts.” I had made the mistake of telling him that “Gerty” was a nickname unfortunately bestowed upon me in junior high by a group of mean boys whose main extracurricular activity was tormenting. “Gerty Gertruuuuude!”
Eeeesh. The sound of that name sent me reeling back to seventh grade, when I went home from school crying almost every day. Warren was the kind of person who assigned unflattering nicknames to nearly everyone he met as a way of subtly bullying them (like “Ham Hocks” for a girl who had saddlebags). I had saved him the trouble of conjuring a label for mehe just borrowed “Gerty.” Of course no one would know “Gerty” was offensive except me, but it takes a while to rid yourself of junior high torment. I’ll probably be over it by the time I’m eighty. I only tolerated Warren’s use of the nickname because he was really funny, and he made me laugh out loud.
We met back in 1995 while teaching English at a language academy in Seoul, South Korea, and clicked immediately. He was the brother I never wanted. Teaching fussy adolescents was often a challenge, and having Warren there for comic relief made it infinitely more bearable.
Fast forward to early 2007, twelve years after Korea, when I was working for a travel company in Seattle and Warren was back to teaching English again, this time in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Dubai had the reputation of being the Vegas of the Middle East, and Warren made his life there sound like a dream: “tons of cash, private villa, Jet Skiing to private islands,” etc. He would always casually throw out a “You should come out here and teach! It’s great!” He was prone to wild exaggeration, but from his Facebook photos, it looked like he really was enjoying himself in the style in which he was perpetually yammering. Warren on a Jet Ski, Warren feeding camels, Warren posing in front of the famed Burj Al Arabthat last one was in sepia, which really added a touch of class to the album. He seemed to be in his element in the Middle East.
That was nice for him, but it was somewhere I had no desire to go.
My extremely limited knowledge of the Middle East, juxtaposed with reasons I should absolutely not go there:
- FACT: Women, typically, do not live alone.
- FACT: I had lived in my own apartment for eight years.
- FACT: Conservative Muslim women wear black fabric covering their heads and entire bodies.
- FACT: Black makes me grumpy.
- FACT: It is illegal (at least in Saudi Arabia) for women to drive.
- FACT: I started driving when I was twelve years old.
Living, dressing, and driving were all very important things to me, a girl born in the era of Gloria Steinem. I was raised on Free to Be You and Me and Our Bodies, Ourselves and, as far as I know, neither of those has been translated into Arabic. But you know what has been translated into Arabic?
Gone with the Wind.
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
Full of humor, this book definitely perked me up during finals week. While it's probably not rated very high on the scale of a travel guide, if you're a Sex in the City kind of girl who has a passion for collecting shoes and toying with the idea of finding a soul mate in a foreign land, then yes, by all means, read this book. And for anyone looking for a travel guide, might I suggest giving up and reading this book instead? You'll laugh far more often, learn a couple cities' names, and multiple ways to say "Thank you." All very important information. You might even find a friend along the way--a friend by the name of Gretchen, a travel guide who can point you to the best shoe sale and the best overpriced cafe.
This book was horrible!! Not funny. A spoiled brat in iraq that should have indulged in a culture...not buy prada shoes. People that enjoyed this book should get a life! Funny in farsi...that is a funny book.
Hilarious, laugh-out-loud moments from someone so far out of her comfort zone. This is a great light read with some poignant moments.
Some booksellers have this book shelved with travel guides. Nothing could be farther from the truth, although Ms. Berg does relieve some of our anxiety about taking up residence, albeit temporarily, in Iraq. While her book is a lighthearted look at her adventures and misadventures during a short tenure of teaching English to Iraqis, she also demystifies life there (at least in Erbil) and at the same time, decries the "glaring inequities between men and women." You can enjoy this book on more than one level: Ms. Berg has a sense of humor which makes it possible to laugh about her life in a region that, for the most part, no one finds amusing; you can learn a great deal about ordinary Iraqis; you discover that an American can live a reasonably peaceful, comfortable, relatively non-threatening life in Iraq. . .at least temporarily!
I knew I was going to love this book when the first page had a Q & A from Miss Teen South Carolina 2007. The book was insightful, funny and surprisingly touching at times. I think this book would be great for a book club!
Ms. Berg's memoir of her time in Iraq is witty, clever, informative, heartwarming, and laugh out loud hilarious. What more could you want in a book? If you have any interest in any of the following areas, you should definitely read this book: humor, fashion, shoes, travel, cultural studies, women's studies, memoirs..... Great summer read. Go buy it right now!