Knitting Fashion Sweaters for Today

Knitting Fashion Sweaters for Today

by Linda Macho

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Overview

Knitting Fashion Sweaters for Today by Linda Macho

Twenty-one classic sweater designs reproduced from rare thread company publications. Includes instructions, photographs, table of switchable yarns and needle conversion chart. Twenty-one illustrations.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780486797984
Publisher: Dover Publications
Publication date: 07/08/2014
Sold by: Barnes & Noble
Format: NOOK Book
Pages: 48
File size: 25 MB
Note: This product may take a few minutes to download.

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Knitting Fashion Sweaters for Today

21 Classic Designs From the Forties


By Linda Macho

Dover Publications, Inc.

Copyright © 1984 Dover Publications, Inc.
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-486-79798-4



CHAPTER 1

How to Knit


CASTING ON: First Loop: Wind the yarn twice around the first 2 fingers (A1). Insert one needle in the back loop (A2). Draw the yarn through the center opening and tighten for the first loop or stitch (A3). Next, cast on the required number of stitches, choosing the method below, or your favorite method.

Continental Single Cast-On: Hold 2 needles together in the right hand; this opens the loops considerably, and makes knitting the first row easier. It also adds elasticity to the edge. Make the first loop around 2 needles, then loop the yarn around the thumb and third finger as shown (B). Add the stitches by inserting the needles upward through the loop on the thumb following the arrow. After the required number of stitches have been cast on, withdraw one of the needles.

KNIT STITCH: Hold the needle containing the cast-on loops in the left hand; insert the right needle into the front of the next stitch to be worked (C1). Draw the working yarn under the right needle and through to the front as a new loop (C2), then slip the old stitch off the left needle.

PURL STITCH: With the yarn to the front of the fabric, insert the right needle into the front of the next stitch to be worked (D1). Loop the working yarn over and under the point of the needle, and draw the right needle and loop just made through the stitch (D2), then slip the old stitch off the left needle.

GARTER STITCH: When the knit stitch is worked every row on 2 needles, the surface of the resulting fabric is "rough," giving the impression of purl knitting (E).

STOCKINETTE STITCH: When 1 row is knitted, and the next row is worked in purl stitch on 2 needles, the surface of the resulting fabric is "smooth," and provides a vertical line of design which resembles a chain (F).

SEED STITCH: When the odd rows are worked in knit one, purl one, and the even rows are worked with a purl stitch over a knit stitch and a knit stitch over a purl stitch, the surface of the resulting fabric is "textured," giving the impression of evenly staggered knots (G).

GAUGE: A knitted fabric is measured by counting the number of stitches to the inch which gives the width measurement, and by counting the number of rows to the inch which gives the depth measurement (H). Always test your own gauge before beginning a project. To do this, cast on approximately 20 stitches, using the yarn and needle size specified, and work in the pattern stitch specified for about 3". Then measure how many stitches and rows you made per inch. If your swatch has more stitches and rows per inch than the gauge called for in the project instructions, your work is too tight and you should use larger knitting needles; if you have fewer stitches and rows per inch than the project gauge, your work is too loose and you should change to smaller knitting needles.

INCREASING: Single Invisible Increase: Knit first into the front of the stitch and form one loop as shown, then knit into the back of the same stitch (I) to form a second loop. Slip both loops off together and the extra stitch is made. On the next row, knit or purl this extra loop as an ordinary stitch.

DECREASING: Knit 2 Together (K2 tog): Insert the right needle knitwise through 2 stitches and knit them together as 1 stitch (J).

Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass Slip-Stitch Over (sl 1, K 1, psso): Slip 1 stitch from the left to the right needle. Insert the right needle knitwise through the next stitch (K1), and knit it. Next, insert the left needle through the stitch previously slipped (K2), and draw this over the knitted stitch following the arrow.

Purl 2 Together (P 2 tog): Insert the right needle purlwise through 2 stitches, and purl them together as 1 stitch (L).

YARN OVER: Knit Row: With the yarn forward, as if to purl, wrap the yarn over the needle, then knit the next stitch (M). On the return row, the over is treated as a stitch and knitted or purled in the same way as the other stitches. A yarn over is an increase stitch. To make a yarn over stitch without increasing the total number of stitches, knit two together before or after the over.

Purl Row: With the yarn forward as if to purl, wrap the yarn over and around the needle, then purl the next stitch (N). Purl two together if you wish to make a yarn over without increasing the total number of stitches in a row.

USING A DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLE: When two or more stitches cross over one another in pairs or threes, they cannot be knitted, but must be crossed (O1 and O3). The figures show units of three, but larger units or units of two are made in the same way.

Cable: Slip two or three stitches on a double pointed needle, and hold in back or in front of the work. Knit stitches A, B and C, then knit stitches D, E and F off the double pointed needle. Figure O2 shows the result of a cable back; Figure O4 shows the result of a cable front.

COLOR KNITTING: When colored patterns are worked in stockinette stitch, always twist the different color yarns where they meet to avoid gaps in the work. When working a pattern, the yarn not in use should be stranded across the back of the work. When the yarn has to be stranded over more than 5 stitches, twist the strand around the yarn in use on every third stitch to prevent long strands on back of work.

CASTING OFF: Knit the first 2 stitches, then draw the first stitch over the second and off the needle (P). Knit a third stitch and draw the second knitted stitch over the third; repeat until the last stitch has been reached. Cut the yarn, leaving a 3" length, and draw through the last stitch; tighten to fasten securely.

This method, though widely used, does not leave an elastic edge, and will probably tighten the knitted piece. Using a large needle (2 sizes larger) in the right hand will safeguard against excessive tightening.

WEAVE TOGETHER: To weave two pieces together, thread a large-eyed needle with matching yarn and pick up the end loops from each row alternately from side to side (Q). Pull yarn lightly to draw the pieces together snugly.


Morning Glow

Shown in color on the back cover.

SIZE: Medium (10-12).

MATERIALS: Fingering yarn, eight 1-oz. skeins (sweater shown on back cover was knitted with Pingouin Pingolaine). 14" straight knitting needles, one pair each No. 2 and No. 5 (or needles to give correct gauge). Yarn needle.

GAUGE: 6 sts = 1". Be sure to test your gauge before beginning!

BACK: With No. 2 Needles cast on 99 sts. Work in ribbing of K 1, P 1, for 3 ½ in. Change to No. 5 Needles and P 1 row increasing to 104 sts at even intervals across row. Work in pattern as follows: Row 1—K 2, * slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O (pass slipped st over the K st), Y O, K 2, K 2 tog., K 2, Y O, K 1, Y O, K 5, slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O; repeat from * across row ending slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 4.

Row 2—P 2, * P 2 tog., Y O, P 14; repeat from * ending P 2 tog., Y O, P 4.

Row 3—K 2, * slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 2, K 2 tog., K 1, Y O, K 3, Y O, K 4, slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O; repeat from * ending slip 1 st; K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 4.

Row 4—Repeat Row 2.

Row 5—K 2, * slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 2, K 2 tog., Y O, K 5, Y O, K 3, slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O; repeat from * ending slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 4.

Row 6—Repeat Row 2.

Row 7—K 2, * slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 2, K 2 tog., K 5, Y O, K 1, Y O, K 2, slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O; repeat from * ending slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 4.

Row 8—Repeat Row 2.

Row 9—K 2, * slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 2, K 2 tog., K 4, Y O, K 3, Y O, K 1, slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O; repeat from * ending slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 4.

Row 10—Repeat Row 2.

Row 11—K 2, * slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 2, K 2 tog., K 3, Y O, K 5, Y O, slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O; repeat from * ending slip 1 st, K 1, P S S O, Y O, K 4.

Row 12—Repeat Row 2.

Repeat above 12 rows until piece measures 11 in. from lower edge. Cast on 5 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows. Working the first and last 5 sts in garter st and the center sts in pattern, work even until piece measures 7 in. from cast on sts at underarm. Discontinue pattern and working in garter st, bind off 5 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows, then 8 sts at beginning of each of next 6 rows. Bind off remaining sts.

FRONT: Work as given for back.

Sew shoulder and underarm seams.


Some Enchanted Evening

Shown in color on the front cover.


SIZE: Medium (10-12).

MATERIALS: Sportweight yarn, 8 oz. (sweater shown on front cover was knitted with Phildar Alpalima). 14" straight knitting needles, one pair each No. 4 and No. 8 (or needles to give correct gauge). Steel crochet hook, size 2. Yarn needle.

GAUGE: 6 sts = 1". Be sure to test your gauge before beginning!

BACK: With No. 4 Needles cast on 81 sts. Work in ribbing of K 1, P 1, for 3 ½ in. Change to No. 8 Needles and P 1 row increasing to 92 sts at even intervals across row. Work in pattern as follows:

Row 1—* Y O, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, P S S O, K 2; repeat from * across row.

Row 2—P 1, * P 2 tog through back of sts, Y O, P 2; repeat from * ending P 2 tog through back of sts, Y O, P 1.

Row 3—* K 2, Y O, slip 1, K1, P S S O; repeat from * across row.

Row 4—P 3, * P 2 tog through back of sts, Y O, P 2; repeat from * ending P 2 tog through back of sts, Y O, P 3.

Row 5—* K 2, K 2 tog, Y O; repeat from * across row, ending Y O, K 4.

Row 6—P 1, * Y O, P 2 tog through back of sts, P 2; repeat from * ending Y O, P 2 tog, P 1.

Row 7—* K 2 tog, Y O, K 2; repeat from * across row.

Row 8—P 3, * Y O, P 2 tog, P 2; repeat from * ending Y O, P 2 tog, P 3.


Repeat above 8 rows until piece measures 11 ½ in. from lower edge, ending with Row 8. Bind off 12 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows for underarm. Work even until piece measures 6 ½ in. from underarm. Bind off 6 sts at beginning of each of next 6 rows for shoulders. Bind off remaining sts for back of neck.

FRONT: Work same as back until piece measures 1 ½ in. from underarm, ending with Row 8, then work over 24 sts; place on st-holder. Bind off next 20 sts for front of neck. On remaining 24 sts, work 2 rows even, then bind off 4 sts at neck edge once. Work even until piece measures 6 ½ in. from underarm. Starting at shoulder edge, bind off 7 sts every other row 2 times. Bind off remaining 6 sts. Work other side to correspond.

Sew shoulder and underarm seams.

SLEEVES: With No. 8 Needles cast on 72 sts. Work in pattern until piece measures 3 ½ in. from lower edge, ending with Row 8. Bind off 12 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows for underarm. Work even until piece measures 4 ½ in. from underarm. Bind off 16 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows. Work even on remaining 16 sts for 2 ½ in. Bind off remaining sts.

Sew sleeve seams. Sew bound off sts at each side of top of sleeves to edges of insert. Sew sleeves in place, easing in extra fullness across top.

EDGING: Join yarn at center of back neck edge. Work 1 s c in st where yarn was joined, * ch 2, skip 2 sts; work 1 d c, 1 picot, ch 2, 1 d c, 1 picot, ch 2, 1 d c, 1 picot, all in next st; ch 2, skip 2 sts, 1 s c in next st; repeat from * around entire neck edge and lower edge of sleeves.

Make a chain 1 yd. long. Draw through lace pattern just below edging.


Lida Rose


MATERIALS: Fingering yarn, six 1-oz. skeins for small, seven for medium, eight for large size. 14" straight knitting needles, one pair No. 3 (or needles to give correct gauge). Yarn needle.

GAUGE: 8 sts = 1"; 9 rows = 1". Be sure to test your gauge before beginning!

PATTERN STITCH (a multiple of 6 plus 5 sts) ... 1st row : K 1, * k 3, p 3. Repeat from * across, ending with k 4. 2nd row : K 1, * p 3, k 3. Repeat from * across, ending with k 1. 3rd and 4th rows : Repeat 1st and 2nd rows respectively. 5th row : K 1, * yarn over, slip 1, k 2 together, pass slipped st over knit st, yarn over, k 3. Repeat from * across, ending with yarn over, k 1. 6th, 7th and 8th rows : Repeat 1st, 2nd and 1st rows respectively. 9th row: K 4, * yarn over, slip 1, k 2 together, pass slipped st over knit st, yarn over, k 3. Repeat from * across, ending with yarn over, k 4. 10th, 11th and 12th rows: Repeat 2nd, 1st and 2nd rows respectively. Repeat 5th to 12th rows incl for pattern.

Sizes
Small
Medium Large

BACK ... Cast on 122 sts 130 sts 134 sts

Work in ribbing of k 2, 125 sts 131 sts 137 sts
p 2, for 3 ½ inches.
Next row: Purl across,
increasing to

Knit 1 row. Work in pattern 12" 12" 12 ½"
until piece measures in all

To Shape Armholes: 97 sts 103 sts 109 sts
Bind off 6 sts at beginning
of next 2 rows. Decrease
1 st at end of each
row—to decrease
1 st at end of row, knit
the last 2 sts together
(if one of these sts should
be a yarn over, simply do
not make yarn over, thereby
decreasing 1 st
)—
until there remain

Work straight until piece 6 ½" 7" 7"
measures from 1st row
of armhole shaping

To shape shoulder, bind 10 sts 11 sts 12 sts
off at beginning of
next 4 rows

Bind off 12 sts at beginning 33 sts 35 sts 37 sts
of next 2 rows. For back
of neck bind off the
remaining

FRONT ... Cast on 11" 11" 11 ½"
and work as for Back until
piece measures ending with
either the 8th or 12th row
of pattern.

Next row: Work across 43 sts 46 sts 49 sts
and place a marker in work.

Count across the next 39 sts 150 sts 156 sts 162 sts
and place another marker in
work, then work across these
sts as follows: P 2, *
(increase 1 st in next st)
twice—to increase,
purl into the front and then
into the back of the same
st,
p 1. Repeat from *
across to marker, ending with
p 1, increase 1 st in last st.
Slip marker and finish row in
pattern. There are on row

Following row: Work in pattern 12" 12" 12 ½"
across to marker and slip marker.
Knit across to other marker and
slip marker. Finish row in
pattern. Next row: Work in pattern
across to marker and slip marker,
p 2, * k 2, p 2. Repeat from *
across 31 sts from marker, increase
2 sts in next st. Turn.
Following row: Work over
this set of sts only as follows:
* K 2, p 2. Repeat from * across
to marker, ending with k 2, slip
marker and finish row in pattern.
Next row: Work in pattern
across to marker and slip marker,
* p 2, k 2. Repeat from * across,
ending with p 2. Repeat the last
2 rows alternately until piece
measures in all

To Shape Armhole: 66 sts 70 sts 72 sts
Bind off 6 sts at side
edge once. Decrease 1 st
at side edge every other
row until there remain

Work straight until piece measures 4 inches from 1st row of armhole shaping, ending with either the 8th or 12th row of pattern. Next row: Purl across to marker, slip marker and finish row in ribbing. Following row: Work in ribbing across to marker, remove marker, knit remainder of row.

Next row: P2, P2, K2
k2 k2

* P 2, k 2. Repeat from * across.


(Continues...)

Excerpted from Knitting Fashion Sweaters for Today by Linda Macho. Copyright © 1984 Dover Publications, Inc.. Excerpted by permission of Dover Publications, Inc..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

Table of Contents

Contents

Acknowledgments,
Introduction,
1. How to Knit,
2. Morning Glow,
3. Happy Talk,
4. Some Enchanted Evening,
5. Lida Rose,
6. Edelweiss,
7. Something Wonderfid,
8. Maria,
9. Tradition,
10. Simple Joys,
11. Sitting Pretty,
12. Gigi,
13. Sincere,
14. Ain't Misbehavin',
15. Memory,
16. Dulcinea,
17. Camelot,
18. Aquarius,
19. My Fair Lady,
20. Superstar,
21. Sunrise, Sunset,
Metric Conversion Chart,

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