Two talented young chefs share their cooking philosophies and their recipes. McCarty, one of the chefs attributed with popularizing ``California cuisine,'' aims for elegant simplicity; his is party food, with ingredients like truffles, foie gras, lobster, and caviar (not to mention baby vegetables). The text is illustrated by some 100 color photographs of the food and of the artwork in Michael's Restaurant. His food may be delicious, but it is hardly for the everyday cook. White, an enthusiastic proponent of New England's culinary heritage and bounty, has written a far more ambitious, more substantial work. In addition to 300 recipes for both such traditional fare as New England Fish Chowder and new dishes like his Salad of Lobster, Foie Gras, and Papaya, he includes pages of information on ingredients and preparation, diagrams of techniques, and detailed head notes. The sections on fish and shellfish, for example, provide a complete guide to the New England catch. In short, his book will inspire and inform cooks at all levels.