True Sicilian cooking is not well known in the United States; Lo Monte, a cooking teacher and author, has put together a collection of authentic recipes gathered from family notebooks, old cookbooks, and Sicilians who still cook in the classic tradition. Most dishes are simple fare, but some are fit for royalty. Some cooking knowledge would be helpful; the recipe set-up is somewhat awkward and idiosyncratic. Lo Monte's book lacks the charm of Mary Taylor Simeti's Pomp and Sustenance: Twenty-Five Centuries of Sicilian Food ( LJ 8/89), but it includes many more recipes. For subject collections.