Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)

Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)


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Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780784406045
Publisher: American Society of Civil Engineers
Publication date: 01/01/2002
Pages: 1880
Product dimensions: 55.00(w) x 82.50(h) x 4.00(d)

Table of Contents

Volume One
Keynote Address
Numerical Modeling of Breaking Waves in Nearshore Environment1
Wave Measurement
Video Observation of Laboratory Waves13
Measurement of Physical Model Wave Diffraction Patterns Using Video23
Wave Measurement II
Near-Shore Doppler Current Meter Wave Spectra33
Observing Large Waves Using Bottom-Mounted Pressure and Current Meters44
An Analysis of ADCP Wave Directional Distributions with Comparison to Triplet Measurement Techniques Using ADCP and Triplet Data54
Feasibility of Measuring Currents in the Nearshore from a Personal Water Craft66
Poster Session on Wave Measurement
Application of Nautical Radar to the Field Observation of Waves and Currents76
The Italian Wave Measurement Buoy Network: 12 Years Management Experience86
Climatic and Maximum Wave Spectra from Long-Term Measurements96
Maximizing Value of Available Southern California Wave Gage Data105
Current-Field Measurement Around Low-Crested Structures115
Remote Sensing
Extreme Waves Observed by Synthetic Aperture Radar125
Extreme Wave Analysis Using Satellite Data135
Ocean Wave Effects on Global Altimeter Wind Climate Retrieval144
Analysis of Characteristics of Wind and Wave Near Centers of Typhoons Using Data Observed by Satellites154
Remote Sensing II
A Biomodal Directional Distribution Model for Directional Buoy Measurements163
Global Ocean Wave Measurements Using Complex Synthetic Aperture Radar Data173
Real Time Monitoring of Waves and Currents in the Frame of the European Radar Ocean Sensing (EuroROSE) Project183
Combining Phase-Resolving Wave Models with Photogrammetric Measurement Techniques191
Remote Sensing III
Comparisons of Wave Measurements from the European Radar Ocean Sensing (EuroROSE) Fedje Experiment201
The Influence Evaluation of the Noise for the Directional Wave Spectrum Estimated from HF Radar Received Signal211
Evaluation of WaMoS II Wave Data221
Remote Sensing IV
Directional Spectra of Short Sea Waves and Comparison with Microwave Backscatter231
Remote Sensing of Shallow Water Breaking Waves241
Determination of Bathymetry Using Marine Radar Images of Waves251
Space-Time Imaging of Shoaling Waves and Surf258
Phase Profilometry Measurement of Wave Field Histories268
Data Analysis
Directional Analysis with Adaptive Techniques (DAAT)--A New Technique for Wave Directional Analysis278
Second Order Wave Spectra and Heave/Slope Wave Measurements288
Nonlinear Wave Interaction and its Applications to the Analysis of Ocean Waves297
A New Method for Directional Wave Analysis Based on Wavelets310
Estimation of Directional Wave Spectra from Non-Stationary Wave Sensors318
Data Analysis II
Estimation of JONSWAP Spectral Parameters by Using Dependent-Variables Analysis328
Noisy Wave Data Smoothing with B-Splines338
Comparison of Methods for Recovering Surface Waves from Pressure Transducers347
Frequency Properties of the Rainflow Filter--Some Examples in Oceanography357
Data Analysis III
Wave Groupiness in the Nearshore Area by Hilbert Spectrum367
Phase Resolving Analysis of Multidirectional Wave Trains377
Improved Estimates of Swell from Moored Buoys387
A Study on the Determination of the Reflection Coefficient in a Directional Wave Field394
Theory and Statistics
Estimation of Wave Directional Spreading404
Theory of Significant Wave Period Based on Spectral Integrals414
Influence of Sample Data on the Statistical Analysis of Wave Measurements424
Theory and Statistics II
Fitting the Long Term Bivariate Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods to a Theoretical Model434
Extreme Value Analysis Model for Censored Sample and its Application to the Measurement Data444
Theory and Statistics III
Nonlinear Amplitude Dispersion Effects in Extreme Deep-Water Random Waves454
Nonlinearity in Successive Wave Crest Height Statistics464
Case Study on the Statistical Characteristics of Large Wave Heights in Storm474
Rayleigh Law and Stokes Correction for High Waves in Heavy Seas484
Wind Wave Generation
Do Strong Winds Blow Waves Flat?494
The Effect of Swell on the Generation and Dissipation of Wind Sea501
Improving Propagation in Ocean Wave Models507
Directional Spreading in Ocean Swell517
Wind Wave Generation II
Extension and Modification of Discrete Interaction Approximation (DIA) for Computing Nonlinear Energy Transfer of Gravity Wave Spectra530
Extension of the Discrete Interaction Approximation for Computing Nonlinear Quadruplet Wave-Wave Interactions in Operational Wave Prediction Models540
A Shallow Water Intercomparison of Wave Models on Lake Erie550
Wave Growth Limit in Shallow Water560
Wave Hindcasting and Climate
Wave Data Assimilation with Clustered Winds570
Evaluation of the SWAN Wave Model for the Dutch IJsselmeer Area580
Validation of Operational Global Wave Prediction Models with Spectral Buoy Data590
Wave Hindcasting and Climate
Nearshore Directional Wave Measurements for Regional Coastal Management600
Implementation of a Regional Wave Measurement and Modeling System, South Shore of Long Island, New York610
Relationship Between Coastal Waves and Lake Erie Water Levels620
Wave Hindcasting and Climate II
Discrepancies in Design Wave Based on Source and Location of Wave Data630
Statistical Comparisons of Satellite and Model Wave Climatologies640
Improving Wave Hindcast Information for the Great Lakes650
Wave Hindcasting and Climate III
A System for Estimating Wave Climate and Wave Extremes Based on 20-Year Wave Hindcast and its Verification at the Measurement Stations Around Japanese Coasts661
Specification of Hurricane Wind Fields for Ocean Wave Prediction671
Wave Climate Change and Coastal Erosion in the US Pacific Northwest680
Wave Transformation
Linear Refraction-Diffraction Model for Steep Island Bathymetry690
Transformation of Wave Spectra from Deep to Shallow Water700
A Generalized Absorbing Boundary Condition for Elliptic Harbor Wave Models714
Extended Mild-Slope Equation for Random Waves724
Wave Transformation II
Field Measurements and Laboratory Investigations on Wave Propagation and Wave Run-Up734
Spectral Evolution of Swell Across the Continental Shelf744
Application of S-Transforms to the Study of Modulational Interactions of Waves754
Generation of Secondary Waves due to Wave Propagation over a Bar: A Field Investigation764
Wave Transformation III
A Case Studying of Wave Transformation at Starling Creek Marina773
Wave Control on Reef Morphology and Coral Distribution: Molokai, Hawaii784
Wave Transformation at Grays Harbor, WA, with Strong Currents and Large Tide Range794
Mathematical Modeling of Interaction Between Standing Waves and a Horizontal Turbulent Jet804
Spectral Wave Transformation Model with Wave Diffraction Effect814
Wave Transformation IV
Collision of Solitary Waves in Branching Channels824
A Highly Accurate Boussinesq Method for Fully Nonlinear Waves from Shallow to Deep Water834
A Curvilinear Boussinesq Model and its Application844
Nonlinearity of Boussinesq-Type Equations and its Role on Wave Transformation854
Wave Transformation V
Numerical Simulation of Stem Waves Along a Wave-Dissipating Breakwater864
A Finite Element Method for the 1-Term Weakly Nonlinear Beji-Nadaoka Wave Model874
Flexible Boundary Conditions for a Boussinesq-Type Wave Model884
A Weakly Nonlinear Wave Model of Practical Use894
Boussinesq Waves on Vertically Sheared Currents904
Wave Transformation VI
Modeling of Wave Breaking in Boussinesq Evolution Equations914
Refinements to an Optimized Model-Driven Bathymetry Deduction Algorithm924
Pacific Basin Wind-Wave Models: The Generation and Propagation of Low Frequency Energy934
Analysis of Directional Spectra in Shallow Environment: Comparison of Field Data and Results from Mathematical Modeling944
Finite Volume Schemes for the Boussinesq Equations953
Volume Two
Poster Session on Wave Modeling
A Wave Spectra Study of the Typhoon Across Taiwan963
System Identification Techniques for the Modeling of Irregular Wave Kinematics972
Wave Effects on Ships Moored at Figueira da Foz Harbour982
Breaking Waves
Evolution of Bubbly Flow in the Surf Zone992
Laboratory Study of Breaking Wave Induced Noises1002
Implementation and Validation of a Breaker Model in a Fully Nonlinear Wave Propagation Model1012
Breaking in a Spectral Wave Model1022
Breaking Waves II
Kinematics and Transformation of New Type Wave Front Breaker over Submerged Breakwater1032
Effect of Reflective Structures on Undertow Distribution1042
Wave and Turbulence Characteristics in Narrow-Band Irregular Breaking Waves1052
Wave Damping and Spectral Evolution at Artificial Reefs1062
Numerical Wave Tanks
Three-Dimensional Numerical Model for Fully Nonlinear Waves over Arbitrary Bottom1072
Using a Lagrangian Particle Method for Deck Overtopping1082
Fully Nonlinear Waves and Their Kinematics: NWT Simulation Versus Experiment1092
Three-Dimensional Wave Focusing in Fully Nonlinear Wave Models1102
Numerical Wave Tanks II
On the Validity of the Shallow Water Equations for Violent Wave Overtopping1112
Large-Eddy Simulation of Local Flows Around the Head of a Breakwater1126
Physical Modeling
Spatial Regular Wave Velocity Field Measurements near Submerged Breakwaters1136
Laboratory Model Studies of Wave Energy Dissipation in Harbors1150
Experimental Investigations of Wave Propagation over the Swash Zone1160
Wave Hydrodynamics over a Barred Beach1170
Physical Modeling II
A Low-Cost Wave-Sediment-Towing Tank1180
High-Quality Laboratory Wave Generation for Flumes and Basins1190
Active Wave Absorption in Flumes and 3D Basins1200
The Development of a New Segmented Deepwater Wave Generator1209
Physical Modeling III
Longshore Sediment Transport as a Function of Energy Dissipation1218
Wave Scaling in Tidal Inlet Physical Models1228
Laboratory Study of Short-Crested Breaking Waves1238
Laboratory "Freak Wave" Generation for the Study of Extreme Wave Loads on Piles1248
Currents and Sediment Transport
Wave Transformation and Quasi-3D Nearshore Current Model over Barred Beach1258
Visualization of Seepage During Vortex Ripple Flow over a Sandbed1268
Role of Nonlinear Wave-Wave Interactions in Bar Formation Under Non-Breaking and Breaking Conditions1278
Effects of Frequency-Directional Spreading on the Longshore Current1285
Relationship Between Vertical Wave Asymmetry and the Fourth Velocity Moment in the Surf Zone: Implications for Sediment Transport1295
Currents and Sediment Transport II
Erosional Hot Spot Prediction Through Wave Analysis1306
Regional Wave Transformation and Associated Shoreline Evolution in the Red River Delta, Vietnam1316
Sediment Transport Related to Potential Sand Mining Offshore New Jersey1326
A Coupled Wave, Current, and Sediment Transport Modeling System1336
Currents and Sediment Transport III
Time-Dependent Sediment Suspension and Transport Under Irregular Breaking Waves1346
Fluidization Model for Cross-Shore Sediment Transport by Water Waves1356
Using Wave Statistics to Drive a Simple Sediment Transport Model1366
Wave Breaking and Sediment Suspension in Surf Zones1376
Simulation of Sediment Suspension Using Two-Phase Approach1386
Currents and Sediment Transport IV
Numerical Prediction of Rip Currents on Barred Beaches1396
Effects of Cross-Shore Boundaries on Longshore Current Simulations1406
Waves and Currents on Accretional Barred Beaches1416
Wave Group Forcing of Rip Currents1426
Poster Session on Currents and Sediments
Initial Motion of Sediment Under Waves: A General Criterion1436
Analysis on Typhoon-Induced Shoreline Changes Using Remote Sensed Images1447
Shallow Water Processes
Modeling of the 2nd Order Low Frequency Wave Spectrum in a Shallow Water Region1457
Lateral Mixing and Shear Waves1467
An Application of Wavelet Transform Analysis to Landslide-Generated Impulse Waves1477
Run-up Heights of Nearshore Tsunami Based on Quadtree Grids1487
Tsunami II
Landslide Tsunami Amplitude Prediction in a Numerical Wave Tank1495
Benchmark Cases for Tsunamis Generated by Underwater Landslides1505
Numerical Modeling of Tsunami Propagation over Varying Water Depth1515
Characteristic Modes of the "Andreanov Tsunami" Based on the Hilbert-Huang Transformation1525
Coastal Flooding
Neural Network Forecasting of Storm Surges Along the Gulf of Mexico1535
Effects of Nonlinearity and Bottom Friction on Hurricane-Generated Storm Surge in Central Pacific Ocean1545
Numerical Modeling of Storm Surge Generated by Hurricane Iniki in Hawaii1555
Coastal Flooding II
Effects of Natural Sea States on Wave Overtopping of Seadikes1565
Wave Run-Up and Overtopping of Sea Dikes: Results from New Model Studies1575
Estimating Overtopping Impacts in Los Angeles/Long Beach Harbors with a Distorted-Scale Physical Model1585
Long Waves and Ship Waves
Generation of Seiches by Two Types of Cold Fronts1595
A Tidal Constituent Database for the East Coast of Florida1605
Evidence of Near-Surface Density Stratification as a Factor in Extreme Seiche Events at Ciutadella Harbor, Menorca Island1615
Observations and Predictions of Tides and Storm Surges Along the Gulf of Mexico1625
Long Waves and Ship Waves II
Vessel-Generated Long-Wave Measurement and Prediction in Corpus Christi Ship Channel, TX

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